Stitcher's Guild

I'm starting this topic as a backup of the Sharing thread on Sewing World, currently listed in the Fabrics section.  I hope it can be found by people navigating to this site, should anything ever happen to SewingWorld.

I have come to love the Sharing thread, and to thoroughly enjoy everyone who posts on it.  It's hallmark is the generous enthusiam that we all share for sharing our ideas and projects.  That's what keeps me going back to it, day after day!

I certainly hope that nothing happens to SewingWorld, but with its features diminishing with every repair, it's scary to think that it could just go "POOF" one day, and we'd lose our wonderful connections to each other.

Hi, Kathryn, Liana, and Dragonlady.  Thank you for creating this forum!  Glad to be here.   I need to get used to all the different features here. 

M&M

Hi M&M,

I think this is going to be a lovely place!  It's so nice to see everyone trying it out.  There are features that I didn't even know existed on boards or anywhere else that will be especially nice for those on a dial-up connection.  You can have your settings load the pages without all the avatars, etc. so you just get the text unless you want to see something else, or you can have the topic emailed to you so you can read it offline.  That would have been the hot stuff for me before we got DSL!

Hi Kathryn, Liana and M&M I decided to come over and check this out. If you look at my member number on Sewingworld you will see that I joined ages ago. The site has provided lots of great conversations over the years, first just quilting and then later sewing as I got back into garmet sewing. I too would hate to loose any connectons to all the great friends I have made.

Ami

omigosh M, I just realized who you are!  i remember you from the KBTH list (I don't know what i did, but somehow i turned that mail off  ???  ).  what a small world.  i need to pick your brain on fair isle, i cannot figure it out.  my fingers don't seem to work that way.  :D

Linda

Hi, Linda!  Yes, that is I.  KBTH went through a rough period and the owner resigned, sort of.  Someone else is in charge right now but I am no longer an active member, just a lurker. 

Let me know how I can help you.  I recall you were going to work on a Starmore's design from PCH or Stillwater, right?  :)

HI Kathryn, Liana, May, Ami and everyone else!  I'm here and it is so nice to read everyone's posts.  This looks very exciting and very promising!

It's just so exciting to see everyone coming over for a look-see!  I've been semi-glued to my computer! ;D 

I did find time to cut out interfacing and do most of the fusing for the seafoam silk matka (http://www.pbase.com/lianasews/image/57386795.jpg) Marfy jacket I'm making, so I feel good about that.  I got the fabric a couple years ago from FabricMart and I just love it, but it was never quite right for what I wanted until now.  I'm using a very lightweight fusible that I got from Pendleton for underlining.  I'm making some changes to this as I go along, so I hope it will be a success. 

I'm also still knitting on my Cable/Bobble sweater. (http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4785/763/400/S4200004.1.jpg)  That's a photo of the back, and I finished the front on Friday and am on to the first sleeve.  I'm getting really anxious to finish, and of course I have my next knitting project all picked out.  It's this Elsebeth Lavold tank, and I am dying to start it.  It just looks like so much fun to knit. :)(http://www.ingenkonst.se/images/audreyst.jpg)

Hi everyone,

Thanks to Liana and Kathryn for thinking of this idea and starting this board.  Even though I mostly lurk, I do learn so much from reading everyone's posts.  I'm also inspired by much of what I read.  Of course the idea of reading another sewing site instead of sewing is a bit disconcerting but perhaps this site will eventually replace SW and become the place to check out every night.

I have been working on Lois Ericson's new pattern, In the Studio 7.  I think it's a very versatile pattern and I love the inspiring photos on her gallery site: http://www.designandsew.com/gallery_in_studio_seven.html.  I'm making this from a black embroidered tapestry fabric and using the wrong side for the front bands.  This pattern is much more fitted than other Lois Ericson patterns though not as fitted as the Marfy patterns or other patterns that are more in style today.    I may post photos when I'm done.

Diane

Diane, That's a neat pattern.  It makes me think of a cross between the Nikko and Haiku Two patterns from Sewing Workshop.  I really like it, and thanks for bringing it to my attention.  Sounds like your version will be beautiful!

Hi May, Ami, Mardel, and Diane!  Isn't this great fun!

Diane, it would be great to see your photos when you are done with your Lois Ericson project.

Linda, thanks for your PM. Hope you get good news from Oz soon!

Hello, everyone! I'm here and will be following both the Sharing Thread on SW and the Sharing thread on SWRefuge (temporary name).

patti

Liana, the Elizabeth Lavold tank looks glorious and fun to knit.  I rediscovered that pattern as I have been sorting through magazines and pattern books, eliminating the chaff (not Elizabeth Lavold it turns out).  In the process I have rediscovered lots of beautiful patterns I had forgotten, including the one you posted.  I hope to knit it this spring or summer, but there are lots of things on my list and who knows what I will actually start.  I am much too fickle a knitter. ::)

Good morning everyone, nice to meet everyone here

Thanks Liana, Kathryn and DragonLady for providing this new forum.

Liana love that Lavold garment---I have some of her Silky yarn waiting for some inspiration to get going with it :D
I just had a look at the back of your cables and bobbles garment---very nice.

Deirdre

Mardel,  I'm glad to hear that you like Lavold's patterns.  I really trust your judgment, so it gives me a little more confidence that it will turn out okay.  I think we're all "fickle knitters" or at least I tell myself that, since I certainly am! :D  It's very hard not to be when there are so many great yarns and inspiring patterns, and not enough time to get them done as quickly as we'd like.

Thank you Deirdre!  What are you going to do with your Silky Wool?

I was up early this morning, and took photos of all the snow we now have.  It's really amazing; very wet and heavy, and about a foot of it. :-\

Hi Dierdre!  nice to see you! 

Liana, we can still get snow this time of year but luckily not yet.  Apparently they had about 2 inches 10 miles south of me yesterday but you wouldn't have known it here!  Good thing we don't have a big snow as the ground is completely thawed and saturated as we have had a great deal of rain  -- the trees would be toppling all over the place.

I hope it gave you a nice opportunity for a sewing day though.

Hi Deirdre!  Nice to see you here--cute photo, BTW!

OK, I finally got around to following the link and registering, lazy woman that I am... I guess that means I have to figure out the avatar thing too ::)

Liana, I keep asking you what magazine/book you got patterns from, and I'm going to do it again for the tank. I hope you don't mind too terribly much... I went through all the Elsbeth Lavold books at the LYS last Thursday and don't remember that pattern. I wear tanks a lot in the summer, so pretty ones would definitely be worn. I see so many plain, boring ones, but not so many with nice details like this one.I also don't usually like a high neckline, so that makes this one doubly nice. I plan to do the "ribby" one from chic knits next. Your latest sewing project looks delicious, BTW.

Dierdre, thanks for the yarn information over at SW. 31 stitches/inch is a bit tedious for handknitting. It sounds wonderful though. I keep seeing all these beautiful lace shawls on people's blogs, and now I want to try knitting lace. There are truly not enough hours in the day...


Lunch is calling... Literally :)

Nora,  The pattern is in her Sophisticated Lady (http://www.ingenkonst.se/eldcb4_e.htm) pattern book.  She shows it in both the Silky Wool Tweed (the photo I posted above) and in Silky Wool.  That photo is a dark blue with "armlet" thingies.  It doesn't look like much in that photo, IMO, because you can't see the interesting pattern stitches.  I'm sure it's fine in real life, but it doesn't show in the photo.  I think I know that "ribby" tank you're talking about.  There are so many nice patterns, it's hard to even decide. ???  Have you seen the neat tank that M and M did? It's from a Knitty pattern, and has really great shaping.  I know she has a photo in her album.

Mardel,  I won't wish this snow on you, but it's the most we've had at one time this year I think.  We did have a big snow very early this winter, and now this, but nothing in between.  I took "snow pictures" this morning before 7am, and you can see them here.

Snow Pictures (http://sewintriguing.blogspot.com/2006/03/heres-snow.html)

Thank you Dragonlady for providing this wonderful refuge for the ladies of SW.  Kathryn and Liana, you two are just so smart to be on top of the SW situation and for finding this great site.  A new sewing home!!! I am happy to be with you...

Anne

Liana, OMG! I can't believe you got that much snow. Well, I suppose I can, but it's never fun to get it this time of year. I'm always sick of winter by now, and just want it to be spring. It's very pretty though. Somewhere I have a picture of a May/June snowfall, taken in Labrador, where I used to live. The caption of the picture, taken on the golf course, complete with almost prostrate completely leafed out trees, was "Golf Anyone?"

You are so sweet to post that link. I did see that book, so I dunno... I must have been on overload by then, or just didn't notice what with the silliness of the arm thingies. Are you using silky tweed for it? Our summers are warm and humid, and I refuse to buy -- let alone make -- summer garments that can't be thrown in the washer, so I'd need to go with a yarn that had no wool. It would be too warm for me anyway.

I know what you mean about pattern overload. I already have more patterns than I could hope to knit in a month of Sundays, and I started with zero a couple of months ago. And now I'm off to check out M&M's photo album to see the one you're talking about. I bet it's the one called "W" ;D

Thanks Kathryn, but I must admit this photo is 4 to 5 years previous to my now 62 year old self  :o ;D

I love seeing everyone.  I mostly lurk on the SIPP thread, but have asked questions of the 'experts' time and again.  The things I'm doing these days because of you girls amaze me.

Thanks for the invite and the backup plan.

Gaylen

Yes, I have all the yarn for Fort Ross from PCH (and would you believe I got the book from half.com for TEN bucks!!!).  Actually, the first thing you could help me with is getting me started!!!  ;D  I need to do a gauge swatch, and it was suggested I just cut yard lengths or so for the intarsia work. The fair isle stuff scares me, I can never get the tension right, and I don't know how much extra yarn I have to play with.  I bought all the starmore yarn years ago when PCH first came out, and I know if I tried to find some more, it would cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. 

I don't know why I'm procrastinating, maybe because I know it'll take so darn long.  It's such a pretty sweater though.

Linda, Fort Ross uses Scottish Heather, I think.  If you are worried about running out of kit yarns, you could swatch with Jamieson Soft Shetland or Jamieson Shetland Heather.  As far as I know, they are the same as Starmore's Scottish Heather.  You need two skeins in constrasting colors.  That way, you can practice Fair Isle method as well.  As for cutting yarns, they say that method produces more accurate swatches.  I believe it is true.  When knitted back and forth, the tension could be different from knitting in rounds.  If you are not happy with edges being unstable, you could add some steek stitches in the checkered pattern.  That way, the desing part is not affected by loosened stitches at the edge.  BTW, when I did a swatch or two, I knitted them back and forth.  I was making my DDs' vest and I was not that worried about the exact gauge.   ;)

Welcome Anne, Gaylen, and Nora!  Enjoy wandering around this site. It's great fun!

{quote] Thanks Kathryn, but I must admit this photo is 4 to 5 years previous to my now 62 year old self  :o ;D

You definitely look younger than your age.  I hope I can say the same in 7 years. :)

Liana,

I just ordered the book from my yarn shop.  I love that tank---I am wondering though if the yarn I have on hand will show the stitch defintion well enough.  It is black or very dark wine in colour, hard to tell.  Oh wel, if it doesn't suit, I will have to buy more  ;)

Deirdre

You definitely look younger than your age.  I hope I can say the same in 7 years. :)

Linda,

Thank you---

I am sure you will look very good, as you do now ;D

Deirdre

Deirdre,  Gee, what a terrible thing if you have to buy more yarn! ;D
I must agree with everyone else that you look great!  I would certainly not have guessed anywhere near the age you mentioned. 

Nora,  I am using the Silky Tweed, in this color, called White Sands.  (http://www.yarnbarn.com/images/kfi/lavold/silky/silky002.jpg)  I don't think it's quite as pink as the photo shows, but it's got a nice pinkish cast to it.  For a really cool garment, I would recommend linen yarn.  I have a Louet shell that I just love.  Deirdre will be able to tell you more about whether you can substitute linen yarn for this, since the linen has no stretch.  It's kind of like knitting with string.  You machine wash and dry it when you're done, and it softens up beautifully and has a great luster.

Yes, I thought our snow was a little excessive too.  They finally decided we had had 14" but it piled up higher in a lot of places, so it's been exciting.

I got my Matka Marfy jacket body stitched together last night and tried it on, and I really think it's going to be a winner!  So far, still pleased anyway. ::) :)

Liana, I just looked at some of your pics.  I am sooo impressed!  You know what styles and colors look best on you.  Everything looks so classy and elegant!  What an inspiration!

austin

Liana, what are you planning on using for lining for your Marfy jacket?  I love silk matka for Spring jackets--it's a perfect weight for those "transitional" days.

Gypsie, welcome!  Seeing Liana's gorgeous sewing creations is a great way to visit this thread!  And she knits, too!

austin,  Thanks so much for the wonderful compliment!  You've made my day. :)

Kathryn,  You're quite the flatterer too! ;)  I'm planning a silk lining, but I'm not sure exactly what yet.  I'm going to first look through the stash and see if anything seems to be right.  There are so many gorgeous silk prints around it would be fun to use one, and maybe to have a tank or something to wear under the jacket from the same silk.    As you say, the matka is the perfect weight for a spring jacket, and it would be a shame to line it with a synthetic.   

Oh, I agree.  I did that once, and have always regretted it, even though the match to the synthetic was great.  Lining (and underlining, if necessary) silk with silk is my idea of a great jacket.

Liana, thanks for the information. The silky tweed will be pretty for a shell under a jacket, or in an air conditioned environment. It will, of course, have more body than a linen garment would. I think the tank in question would be fine in linen, but it will hang differently. I would need to find a yarn of the proper weight though. Dierdre, am I correct about this, or will it not work in linen or a cotton/linen/viscose blend?

Oh, no! Anne Kendall from www.appleanniefabrics.com posted on sg_'s Sharing thread that HTC is no longer making Texture Weft fusible underlining/interfacing!  Time to lay in a lifetime supply  ;D.  I love that stuff--I've been using it since it first came out over 10 years ago or so.  It's the best fusible underlining ever--not a lot of glue, adding just the right amount of "heft"  to a fabric.  I have lots of it, since I buy it by the bolt in the available colors, but I may have to get some more before all is said and done.  First, though, I would have to calculate what a "lifetime supply" would be equivalent to  ;) .

Thanks for mentioning this site.  I wasn't familiar with it. :(  I am NOW!    ;D  I found quite a few fabrics that will work their way into a stash.

austin

Happy shopping there, austin.  Her fabrics are gorgeous and her service is impeccable.  You're going to love dealing with Anne.

Nora

I think the other yarns you mention would work fine if they are the proper weight.  I did end up ordering some Silky Wool in a lighter colour to do that shell.  I swatched the black Silky Tweed and to me the stitch pattern would be lost in the dark colour.  Nora, I also think the linen even if it has more body would work well as it would show the stitch pattern better.

Of course, while I was at it I am having by friend at the shop send me the Denise needle set.  Has anyone used these and if so do you like them?

Deirdre

Deirdre

Does this mean Nancy Erickson won't have it anymore either (that is what her 'Nancy's fusible underlining' is, right)?  I didn't renew my newsletter this year, so don't know if she's mentioned that at all.  That stuff IS great, I think I have 5 yds each of black and white, but that is nowhere near a lifetime supply.

I don't know, linda, but you could email her and ask.  In the past she has sold her interfacing to non-subscribers, but maybe not at the subscriber's price.  I'm not sure.

Thank you Dierdre. I will try it in a linen, or a linen blend yarn -- when I have time. And who knows when that will be :( I'm still packing beads... DBF was laughing at me last night because I had a book from the library titled something like Men in Sweaters. The premise of the book is that men often won't wear the sweaters their women knit for them because we knit what's interesting to us, and not what he'll actually wear. He seemed more enthusiastic about some of the styles than others, but basically said "I'll wear whatever you knit, but you're not going to have the time to knit anything for a while". Sad, but probably true. Having said that, it will be easier to knit while in transition than to sew or bead.

Having not done any tailoring in a very long time, I've never used textured weft. I will have to get some from Anne when she gets it in stock, just in case it actually disappears forever. I do now have fabric intended for jackets, so it will get used eventually, perhaps sooner rather than later.

Sorry, no photo as yet.

Just wanted to mention about the textured weft than NE has.  I think she gets it from a different supplier, so I do not know how hers will be affected.  I think she does sell it to non-subscribers at 50c more per yard.

I have used in addition to the textured weft, which I love, the very fine one that fabric mart has.  It is more difficult to work with, but it does not have as much fusing on it as some of the other ones, so it is a fairly good substitute for the TW

Fran

Wow, Fran, thanks for registering and logging on!  I hope you're feeling better!  You should use that great photo of you and your grandbaby.  What an adorable photo it is!

Hope you are feeling better, and thanks for the TW info.  I had an email from Anne Kendall, from appleanniefabrics.com and she is searching for some generic TW for a substitute for us.  I think we'll be fine, with her in the lead on this.

Moved over from the Site announcement category...

Thanks Lisa! I'm a theatre and dance Costume Designer by profession, so the concept of sketching out planned garments isn't new to me, but I honestly never thought to apply it to my own wardrobe until joining SWAP. It's been very useful keeping track of the number of garments needed and/or planned. I don't know that I will often sketch ideas for myself again... unless it's a special item. But I know I don't look at fabrics for myself quite the same way now. I see co-ordinates everywhere I look now.


Again, thank you. The fabric is here now and I was somewhat surprised... there are several color flowers that didn't show on the 4" by 6" swatch! But it's even more beautiful... pink and lavender and gold and yellow and green. I'm going to be posting to this (and SW) looking for advice as I get closer to the day. I need to do mock-ups first to judge the best silhoutte and fit for my body. But I won't start patterning for a while.
First I have to finish that SWAP!

Kathleen C.
Kathleen C.'s Photos (http://photos.yahoo.com/coneryka)

Hi Fran!  It is nice to hear from you.  I had wondered if Nancy's weft interfacing was from a different supplier because the supply I have from her isn't exactly the same as the textured weft I fused in my sample book.  They are similar, and I coudl use Nancy's if the other was not available, but I like the original Textured Weft more.  I guess it is irrelevant now.

I wondered if I was just being overly picky and the differences weren't that significant  I fused both to the same fabric though for comparison and I could tell the difference.  I found that Nancy's affected the drape of the fabric just a little more than the textured weft.  This could have been only this particular fabric though, as I did have trouble finding interfacing I like with it.  Has anyone else noticed any difference? or is it all in my head?

Hi Fran, it is good to see a post from you again. I hope you are feeling better. Spring must have arrived there, no? It's still chilly here, but some of the early risers are poking their noses up above ground for a look around. They seem to have all suspended animation for the time being though.

Sadly, I have nothing to add to the TW discussion, but will follow with interest what others have to say about available substitutes. Liana, didn't you post a link a while ago to a site that had something similar? I seem to recall that it was not a truly commercial site.

following the TW thread--- I am wondering if anyone has used any of the products from


I have recently ordered a couple of different interfacings from Pam, but have not used any as yet.  She is a very nice person to deal with.

Fran---Nice to hear from you and I hope you are feeling better.

Nora,  I was just going to reply, and Deirdre beat me to it! 

~Sew Exciting~ FASHION SEWING SUPPLY (http://www.sewexciting.blogspot.com/) is indeed a commercial site, although it's a start-up that is using a blog as its catalog site.  The ordering process uses email and sends you an automated invoice that you can either pay with PayPal or send a check.  (Not sure if there are other options now.) 

Pam is a wonderful person, and she has great products that she uses in her custom shirt business.  She started selling things so that she could order large enough quantities to have the products custom-made to her specifications.  I've ordered some of all of her products and been very pleased with them.  Her Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing seems to me to be exactly the same as Texture Weft.  I also like her  Pro-Sheer Fusible for fusible underlining.  It's really fine, and is great for knits, too.  It gives a little more body than the Pro-Weft, IMO.  The Pro-Woven Fusible is quite heavy.  It's what I used (and sent Patti) for the collar of my Vogue 8123 jacket, and it's wonderful for applications where you really need something to stand up.

NAYY, but I'm just a very pleased repeat customer.  :)

I also really like her chalk pencils. 

Fran, I'm so glad you've joined us!  Hope you're going from strength to strength! :)

I've been emailing Anne Kendall from www.appleanniefabrics.com  to find out what she is doing with the TW situation that she first announced.  She said that HTC gave her the name of THEIR supplier for Texture Weft--that is the supplier to HTC.  Ann consequently is working on ordering an entire 200yard roll of the supplier's Texture Weft.  I think Texture Weft is the HTC name, and I don't what it's called when it comes directly from the supplier to HTC in the past and now directly to Anne.  Anyway, she will keep us informed. 

I love it when a vendor is proactive like this, sensing the need of the sewing community and stepping up to the plate right away to help.  I'm would imagine that 200 yards of the original of the Texture Weft interfacing is probably a huge expenditure, but it is so popular, that I'm sure that Anne will sell it quickly after she gets it in.  I'm making a mental note to order some when she has it available.  In fact, I may just see if she can take a preorder.

Hi everyone!  I have just found this thread.  Have been to the sandbox and the welcome thread.

The internet is a wonderful thing and listening (reading) to you all talk about spring coming after a very cold winter is a bit strange coming from this side of the planet (Australia).  For one, it is never that cold, animals don't hibernate and trees don't lose their leaves.. So while I am thinking about winter clothes you guys are getting excited about spring fashion.  If I could get myself organised, I should join you in spring sewing and then I would be 6 months ahead!  So when our spring comes next September I would be so ready with a wardrobe of new garments!  But alas, with all these computer sites I don't think I will ever get sewing.  Too much to read and check out.

And today I must get a nice photo done, so I had better go and gussy up.....

Thanks Dierdre, Liana and Kathryn for the further information about the fusible underlining. I will order and experiment once I unpack. All fabric has already disappeared into boxes. My DBF was laughing at me last night because a box of Ressy coop fabric arrived. Needless to say, he pointed out the folly of having more fabric arrive on the eve of a move. But hey... At least it's already in a box. ::)

And welcome Vicki! I know exactly what you mean about spending too much time on the computer and not enough time actually doing stuff.

Hi Vicki, welcome!  You have lots of cute photos, so you wouldn't HAVE to take a new one, unless you want to.

Nora, good luck with the move.  It should be fun to experience Spring in a new home.

Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for your good advice, actually I had to get my daughter to help me upload this photo of myself and
my youngest grandkid, Mackenzie.

Not much to add about the textured weft, but its interesting to know that they actually did get it in the 60" width
but cut it in half, I expect they do that to most of the 30" interfacings - I suppose everyone makes more profit,
except the poor consumer.  I think this is why NE got hers elsewhere because it was wider and saved us money.

However I was interested to see it was not quite the same for someone.

Fran

Cute photo, Fran! 

About TW, I'm just relieved that I can continue to get my supply from Anne Kendall at www.appleanniefabric.com .  I'd be lost without that stuff!

Vicki, I see that you got your photo uploaded as well.  It's really a good one of you--very flattering, my dear!

I've been busy this afternoon looking through my silk stash now that Liana (on the "Tees" thread) has raised the question about blouses.  What fun to handle light, frothy silks after a winter of heavy woolens!

Since I can't focus on a sewing project, I am altering some patterns for future projects.  I have a Marfy jacket finished, ready for the fashion fabric, and am working on one from Vogue patterns.  I find pattern altering a relaxing endeavor, measuring and calculating, cutting and pivoting...chasing after the ever-elusive perfect fit.  :)

It's really nice to put faces to names here--thanks for all who are providing photos (from the person who doesn't own a camera--digital or otherwise).

Kathryn, Liana really kicked up a 'silk storm' with her inquiry regarding blouses! I've also spent a good part of the day going through my considerable stash of silk prints. I've pulled out several that I want to work on after I finish my Easter suit (it's a good thing Easter is later this year). My 'sewing goal' is to finish the jacket (except for the button) and skirt tomorrow. I still have to find a top to go with the lilac.

I've contacted Anne Kendall to 'preorder' some of the Texture Weft she's getting in. The initial post on SW--that HTC was discontinuing the product--certainly sent shock waves through the SW community. I'm glad to know that it is still being manufactured and will be available to the home sewist, though probably under a different name (it is likely that Texture Weft is an HTC trademark).

Thanks Kathryn for the compliment on the photo - Sofie (dd) was the photographer!  The skirt I have on is one I purchased on Saturday - I saw it in the shop window and well just had to try it on.  It is stretch and very comfortable.  And I would think pretty easy to make. ::)

Fran, your photo is really sweet!

Vicki, I'd like to see that skirt close up. Do you have the photo posted on your photo site as well?  I figure if you're thinking of copying it, then it's something I should look at too!  Now the big question is, did you buy shoes at the same time ;D ;) ?

Kathryn, no I didn't buy shoes  :-\ but I did buy a top  ;D  I will post some pictures tonight.

Some of you may have seen this Ralph Rucci exhibition before, but I just heard about it:

http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/rucci/day.htm

Kathryn, Here is a link to a close up of the denim skirt and the top that came home with it ::)

denim skirt (http://au.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/vicki_hks/album?.dir=ce22&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//au.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/vicki_hks/my_photos)

Deirdre,  Great link!  I never tire of seeing Rucci's designs.  I think he's about at the top of my list! 

By the way,  I love your avatar!  It's just charming, and makes me think of 1920's or '30's tea-towel embroidery designs. 

Vicki,  I like your skirt!  That does look easy to copy.  Do you like the belt with it, or will you do a copy without?  It's very cute, but I wondered if it might limit the kinds of tops you could wear with it.

Deirdre, you make me laugh out loud sometimes.  As the reigning Eucalan Queen, soaking in Eucalan bubbles to become soft as well as mothproofed, the picture is perfect!

Vicki, thanks for the link to your skirt. I can see the godets more plainly now, and appreciate the stitching, too,  It would be a cute skirt to copy, especially since it fits you so well.  I bet one or both of your DDs is planning on swiping it from your closet any day now.  The tops are cute too.  I'm really envious of your summer weather.  I should live in the tropics, then I wouldn't feel cold 90% of the year!

Carolyn, I'm going to try to move your question about how to put links into your signature to the Site News and Announcements category in the FAQ section.

Click on this link to find it:  http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?topic=92.msg929#msg929


OK, here goes the possible move...

In case anyone wants more particulars on the "disappearance" of Texture Weft from our fusible armamentarium, here's the information I have from Anne Kendall of www.appleanniefabrics.com . In a nutshell, here's what she told me:

Anne apparently called her supplier (her distributor) to order another 25 yard bolt of TW, and was told that HTC had discontinued Texture Weft, and there was none available. Anne went into hyperdrive, and called the president of HTC to tell him what a huge mistake he was making. Later in the day, he emailed her the name of the mill where HTC bought all of its TW (except that it isn't given the TW name until the 60 inch wide product is sliced in half and rolled with the plastic instructions onto HTC's 25 yard bolts). HTC, therefore, was the middleman between the mill and the distributors, repackaging the mill's product with its own label and name, Texture Weft.

So Anne is getting exactly the same product from the mill that HTC got in the past, but she will be selling it in full 60 inch widths. She is only getting one color to start, since it is quite a huge leap to go from a 25 yard bolt of 30 inch wide Texture Weft to a 200 yard roll of "TWoriginal" (my name for it), 60 inches wide of exactly the same product directly from the mill. I would imagine that it is quite an outlay in $$$ for her, but I'm thinking it will sell, especially when people hear that TW will no longer be available.

I have preordered 10 yards, and that should do me for a long while. I would hate to think of constructing jackets and other items of clothing without my trusty Texture Weft!

A belated thanks to Dragonlady, Liana, and Kathryn for providing this contingency plan! Your faithful lurkers follow you everywhere...

Well, I've now finished the first version of In the Studio 7 (Lois Ericson) that I mentioned in an earlier post.  I am going to try to upload pictures here.  I liked this, although I ended up making a lot of alterations to the pattern and have also made notes on changes that I would make to future versions.  I used an embroidered tapestry fabric and used the wrong side for the front bands.  The sleeves were too short, so I made facings to match the front band and turned them to the outside on the sleeves.  I also put a narrow band of the reverse side fabric at the yoke seam.  I'm now cutting out another version which will incorporate some of the changes I made to the pattern.  I think this pattern has tons of possibilities.

Diane

In case anyone wants more particulars on the "disappearance" of Texture Weft from our fusible armamentarium, here's the information I have from Anne Kendall of www.appleanniefabrics.com . In a nutshell, here's what she told me:

Kathryn,

Thank you for sharing this information regarding our beloved TW with our old/new sewing friends from SW and the new Artisanssquare.  As a lover and promoter of TW, I was not about to let it go.  The TW order has been placed and I am anxiously awaiting its arrival in its new, larger format. In addition to TW, I am hoping to explore other interfacings with this new resource that we may find useful. I am always on the lookout for the latest/greatest products....

Anne

Diane your 'in the studio' is just gorgeous.  I do think her patterns are really a canvas rather than a pattern pattern,
at least that has been my experience with them, that they do need multiple alterations to fit, but if you are really
creative, by which I think I mean more artistic, I think there is no end to what you can do with these designs.

Yes I also must say thank you to those who have so kindly got this refuge for us.  I think its so easy to navigate around,
and I know for Dragon Lady it must have taken a lot of your time.  Why the name 'Dragon Lady' - its so unusual.

I have been known by my kids and those I taught at school as the wicked witch of the north, but Dragon Lady is so
much more interesting.

Fran

Diane,  Your jacket is just lovely!  I like the contrast fabrics and I think the addition of the cuffs adds a lot to the total look.  Great fabric choices.  I can see why you're ready to make another one right away.  I imagine as you go along, you continually think of new ways to do things, and different fabrics you could try.

Fran,  It is so nice to have you here, and so very nice to see a photo of you!  I hope we'll get to see your projects just any old time, too. ;)

bluemooney,  It's great to have you here, too!  :)  I think the gang is gathering..... ;)

How nice to know that the manufacturer had no intentions of discontinuing the manufacture of TW.  It was just one distributor that is giving up.  (Sighs of relief are audible throughout cyberspace, don't you think?)  ;)

Yay, more familiar faces!

Marianne, I'm glad your photo is back (I read about it in the Chatter section).
(http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?action=dlattach;id=59;type=avatar) 

While there, I  went through your photo album, and really enjoyed it.  Your jackets are great--I love the black and white one, and the silk wool one with the wonderful fused glass button is TDF.  The little christening gown--was ALL of that heirloom work done on a serger?

I have to ask you about the smocked scarf.  That fabric looks like a cousin of this fabric, currently on sale from FabricMart:

(http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/controller/images/804724fd.jpg)

(http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/controller/images/804724td.JPG)
photo credits for both images at www.fabricmartfabrics.com

(Liana, I know that you and Carolyn are also interested in this fabric--you may want to take a peek at Marianne's scarf treatment using a similar fabric.)

Can you describe how you made the scarf?  It appears that you stitched it and steamed it to get it to smock.  Is that correct? 

Thanks for posting such great photos!

Here is the link to Marianne's photo album. where lots of eye candy awaits:

Marianne's Photo Album (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ssandrock2000/my_photos)

I was going to discuss your projects in the Chatter section in reply to your post there, but thought that the discussion probably belonged in this topic instead.  I hope you find this comment, Marianne!

Welcome, Blue Mooney!  Have you been doing some sewing lately?  How appropriate that you're wearing blue in your photo  :).

Diane, your Studio 7 jacket turned out so nice.  The contrast bands at the cuffs, while functional due to the too-short sleeves, really add a nice touch.  Did you line it?  How did you finish the seam edges?  Is the tapestry really heavy, or more on the lighter side? I love the way you reversed the fabric for the trim.  It's perfect, really.  Are there more photos on your photo site of the jacket?  You did a great job!  Thanks for sharing the photo with us.

I was surprised, Anne, to learn that HTC is really just a distributor of couture interfacings.  All along I thought it was a manufacturer as well.  Lucky for us that HTC does not manufacture Texture Weft!  It was really nice of the president of HTC to give you the contact of his source for Texture Weft.  Now we'll have the same product, just without the HTC label, thanks to you!

I was surprised, Anne, to learn that HTC is really just a distributor of couture interfacings.  All along I thought it was a manufacturer as well.  Lucky for us that HTC does not manufacture Texture Weft!  It was really nice of the president of HTC to give you the contact of his source for Texture Weft.  Now we'll have the same product, just without the HTC label, thanks to you!


Kathryn,

HTCW, as it is now known, may very well be a manufacturer of interfacings, just not TW. Once I get to view the samples of additional available interfacings, and quiz my new man ( interfacing resource) the picture may be clearer. I am also anxious to know who makes this product and what its original name is. Or is it just a number?
Thanks for your interest....
Anne

Thanks so much, Anne, for being so proactive on the TW issue, and thanks for clarifying for me (and others) that whatever its 'generic' name, TW is not being taken off the market anytime soon. Like Kathryn, I didn't realize that HTC was just a distributor of the product. I, for one, look forward to having a stash of the 60" wide version.

It is good to see so many SW faces over here (and over there as well)--posting in two places (plus reading PR) takes a minor chunk of time, but it is worth it! I am stimulated by what others are doing, and I love even more being a part of a community of such wonderful, caring women.

Marianne, it was fun to look through your albums -- and Diane, I really like your jacket--very good use of the reverse side of the fabric.

Kathryn, what a beautiful fabric photo you posted from Fabric Mart.  You are so sharp, and always notice things I miss (or I more likely say "what would I do with that") anyway, great eye.  That fabric looks very similar to Marianne's and it would be beautiful in that not-smocked scarf.

Marianne your photos are wonderful.  Thanks for the inspiration.

Diane, your jacket is wonderful!  I always admire jackets like that but when it comes to making them I draw a blank.  I admire you creative people tremendously.

Fran it is so good to hear from you and see your picture too!

Kathryn,  Thanks for the heads up on Marianne's lovely scarf.  I think I know how she did it.  There's a Japanese thread available called Chizimi that a local shop here demonstrated, although not nearly so temptingly! ;)  You stitch with it in the bobbin usually, as it's white, and where ever you want its effect.  When you have it done, you steam the thread (with a steam generator works well, or a good steam iron) and it draws up.  I don't believe it's elastic at all; it just gives you the shirred effect.

That fabric is still calling to me, and I'd better answer it before it's gone!  Maybe I need more now! ;D

Thanks, Liana, for the information.  Where does one find this Chizimi thread?  It would be fun to play with, but I wonder if the shirring lasts, since it is not elastic.  Do the drawn-up thread fibers pop when pulled?

I'm mulling some fun places to use such a thread.

Diane--your jacket is wonderful

Everyone-- isn't this great to back ----Thank you DragonLady--this site is so much fun to use :D

Diane, I like your jacket.  I have this pattern but have not touched it.  Yours is inspiring! :)

Diane, your jacket is great.  I have some very aged tapestry fabric I bought I don't know how long ago to cover an old couch.  Well that never happened.  And I am thinking about making a coat.  I have washed the fabric twice and it is a bit softer but I would need to make it very fitted for it not to overwhelm me. 

I remember way back in the 80's - I used to sew lots back then - when my sister and I made ourselves coats.  The fabrics we used had lots of texture and the coats were not fitted.  Alas, the coats soon earned the nickname of "carpet" coats.  Yes, it did look as though we had just wrapped ourselves in carpet! ::)

Hi gang, I'm glad to be here with you. I need some help. I've been eyeing the same fabric as Liana and Carolyn that Kathyrn posted a picture of. I have another award dinner at the end of April to attend for work. The dinner is in Dallas and I am assuming that the weather is going to be hot. I was wondering if this fabric would make a elegant floor length evening dress. I was thinking about a princess seamed dress with a wrap top front. I looked at a lot of the big 4 patterns and Burda but nothing is calling my name. The last dinner was a sea of black dresses and I really don't want to wear black this time. I want to look a little different but not in a overly stand out way. I want to look elegant and classy but not overly sexy since this is a work affair and DH is not attending. I'm wondering if the fabric would be too busy for a tall plus size gal. I also have a piece of milk chocolate micropleated fabric that I bought at a Hancock sale that I could use. I need some advice from this group of fashion savvy ladies, please.

I was wondering if this fabric would make a elegant floor length evening dress. I was thinking about a princess seamed dress with a wrap top front. I looked at a lot of the big 4 patterns and Burda but nothing is calling my name.

Towanda,

I am currently working on New Look  6429, a wrap dress that got good reviews in Threads a while back. The front wraps into the left front princess seam which would tend to stabilize it and keep it from moving. The dress looks very DVF and I am anxious to get it togehter. OOPs, on further inspection, it is suggested for knits.

I think it's supposed to last once it shrinks.  Here is some Chizimi Thread info (http://www.punchwithjudy.com.au/shop/product.php?productid=16160&cat=309&page=1) I found.  They seem to have it at Viking/White machine dealers, and possibly others, too.  It does bring quite a few ideas to mind, doesn't it? ;)

Towanda,  I haven't received my fabric yet, but it is a polyester chiffon, and I expect it to be fairly sheer in the lighter colored areas without the "boxes".  It might make a very lovely full-length dress, but I think you'll probably have to plan to either fully line or underline it, or wear a slip under it.  Chiffon usually dictates fullness in the design, or it can look very skimpy, so you may be talking about a LOT of fabric.  It could be very beautiful IMO, and I don't really think it would be too busy for a plus size woman.  The fact that you're tall will make most of the difference I think.  You could carry off a lot of print with your height.  I'm sure others will have pattern suggestions for you, but I wonder about a sheer coat to go over your black? 

Towanda, I'm wondering if you could make something from this Neue Mode pattern.  The sheath could be from your micropleted chocolate fabric and the top could be from the polyester semi-sheer fabric.
(http://www.thesewingplace.com/ProductImages/Patterns/NeueMode/23085S.jpg)
Neue Mode S2308 from www.thesewingplace.com

The burnout alone, with an underlined bodice, would look pretty in this dress, also a Neue Mode:

(http://www.thesewingplace.com/ProductImages/Patterns/NeueMode/Spring2004/23124S.jpg)
Neue Mode S23124 from www.thesewingplace.com

I think you would look stunning in that fabric, especially if the skirt was full and floaty.

Towanda, I also see possibilities with this Burda:
(http://www.thesewingplace.com/productimages/patterns/burda/2006/8147.jpg)
Burda 8147 from www.thesewingplace.com

You could make the bodice in the polyester print and the skirt in a neutral beige and add a chiffon overskirt to it, perhaps open in the front.

Ditto for this Burda.  The bodice treatment is a little different from the one above, but you could layer the skirt and it would look really pretty--like with the print layered over a chocolate chiffon:

(http://www.thesewingplace.com/productimages/patterns/burda/8227.jpg)
Burda 8227 from www.thesewingplace.com

This dress would be pretty, too, with a solid chocolate chiffon ruffle at the neckline, with the rest of the dress in the print chiffon, lengthened of course:

(http://www.thesewingplace.com/productimages/patterns/burda2/8836.jpg)
Burda 8836 from www.thesewingplace.com

Kathryn (and others) thank you for the compliments on my album and for the heads up on the chatter topic.

Liana is right, I used Chizimi thread top and bobbin. It shrinks with steam. You have to hold the iron above it (I don't have a steam generator). Putting the iron directly on the thread kills the shrink-ability. I ended up putting it in my vegetable steamer with a low water level. It started out 72" long and ended up 53-54". The threads are not taut-ready-to-snap. It feels exactly like those elastic thread smocked blouses so popular when I was a kid. But this doesn't "grow" like those did. Husqvarna/Viking carries the thread. I paid 9.95 for 300 meters.

Yes, the Christening dress was completely serged except for the band around the collar. It closes in the back with beauty pins.

Thanks guys, the Avantgarde gave me a visual picutre of the idea that I was after. Annie's idea of the wrap princess dress is the winner for the chocolate fabric. I'm not to crazy about a seam across my middle.  If I am lucky and the print matches the chocolate, then the Neue Mode pattern wins but I will add sleeves. Since I'm outside of the pattern range, I will use PMB to draft the pattern and make muslins first. I'll increase the flare of the hem so it is very full. I ordered the fabric this morning, hopefully they still have some left. I agree that whatever I make will need to be underlined or have a separate slip. So far, I'm leaning towards a separate full length slip since I have some nude silkweight wickaway fabric and I can wear the slip with other things. If I have enough left over, I will get some of the Chizimi thread and make a shawl with the pleating at the end of the shawl. Thanks again, I feel better now about this dress.

Thanks for the welcome, Kathryn & Liana -- so glad Stitcher's Guild is up today, as SW is down, at least for me! I love to warm up before a sewing session by reading the boards.

I've been working on a second SWAP for the last few months. My colors were gray, gray, and more gray - it looks like a dull collection of clothes, but I view it as foundation work. Now I can sew any color or print that I like and there will be plenty of pieces to wear it with.

I was also fortunate to have taken a pants-fitting class with Peggy Sagers and learned a lot that is giving me success with this hard-to-fit but oh-so-basic garment. Ironically, now that I have some nicely-fitted pants, I'm starting to think of a skirt or two for summer!

blue mooney,  It's very nice to see you here!  I think that's the beauty of the SWAP is that you actually get the basics done for a change,  :) and it really does make a great difference to have all those coordinates in your wardrobe.  I didn't SWAP this year, but I did the last two, and I am still getting a lot of use out of the pieces, especially the plain colors.  How nice to have a great-fitting pants pattern, too.  That is a real treasure!

Towanda,  Sounds like you've solidified your dress plans and are well on your way to being the best-dressed woman at your event!  The chizimi-pleated shawl sounds like a marvelous touch.

That chizimi thread sounds like something I'd love to get my hands on!

blue mooney, sw has been down for me for the last twelve or so hours.  I don't think it's you.

I'm getting on SW with no problem now, but Ann from England indicated that she could not get onto SW for a very long time, either.  That always worries me, because many posters there don't appear to have made the leap to this forum, even for backup purposes.  I would hate to lose someone.

Wow, thanks to everyone for the nice comments on my jacket.  I am finishing up another one in a heavy very interesting upholstery fabric.  For this one, I used the big sleeves (view C).  I can't decide if I love the jacket or if it makes me look like a sofa!  It's very dramatic.  I think this version would be fabulous in a light drapey silk rather than what I used.  When I'm done, I'll take a picture and post it and get your opinion.

I also recently made a black wool crepe suit.  For the jacket, I used the Sewing Workshop Japonesque top with two right fronts.  I did an experiment on this one that I really liked.  Along the fronts, hem and sleeve hems, I did a two-inch band in which I laid down bits of silk charmeuse, rayon ribbon, mohair yarn and rayon embroidery thread, all in black.  I then covered these bits with a fine black netting and stitched wavy rows of rayon embroidery thread over all of it to hold down the netting and the fabrics.  I folded one side of the netting over in the hem fold and stitching down the other side, trimming it close to the stitching.  The effect is of a subtle ribbon along these edges.  I am attaching a photo that shows the jacket.  It is lightened considerably in Photoshop in order to see it.  I have additional pictures at my Yahoo photo site: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dianewfranklin/album?.dir=36b6&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos.  I made Chinese ball buttons and loops from black rattail cord.  This was really a lot of fun to do.

Diane

Diane,  I really like your edge treatment!  It is so subtle and yet really adds the perfect finishing touch to your jacket.  I like all your Sewing Workshop pattern renditions.  Thank you for letting us see them! :)

Diane, VERY nice bands. Subtle and understated, but they really add to the jacket.

Very nice trim idea, Diane. I bought a few Sewing Workshop patterns an an Expo last month, but haven't found the right fabric to make them up with, yet. I really enjoyed their style show - and I had never really considered the pattern line before. Where did you get the chenille you used  on your Haiku2?

What a nice trim idea Diane on your jacket!  It is very subtle and elegant and quite sophisticated.  I think you are immensly talented to execute something like that and have it come out so beautifully!

Cute Japonesque top, Diane!  How did you get all the little bits to stay put while you affixed the netting to the jacket?  Do they move around, or do they pretty much stay where you put them?  That's such a cute trim idea.  You certainly seem to be having a great time with those Sewing Workshop Patterns--great job!

Modified to clarify--did you use that temporary spray adhesive to hold the little bits in place as you assembled your ribbon, or was the netting "grabby" enough to hold them while you worked?  Now that the ribbon is in place, do the bits shift around in between your rayon thread stitch paths, or are they pretty well fixed in their places?  It's an interesting technique, and I'd love to hear these few more details in addition to your wonderful description.

Diane, I love the trim on your jacket.  Thanks folr describing how you accomplished it.
When I was looking at it closely I wondered, did you cut the charmeuse into shapes, or were they just
random pieces of fabric.

I have some dark red silk dupioni that was supposed to match a fabric that when I went to order it, it had
sold out, this would be a brilliant idea to try on it.

Again, thanks for the detailed explanation, its one I am keeping in my file.

Fran

Again, thanks for all the comments on my jackets.  I'll try to respond to the questions you asked.

Robyn, I got the chenille for the purple jacket in a local store.  It was in the upholstery section.  It's a fairly soft and drapey chenille, and I softened it further by washiing it in the machine and drying it in the dryer.  It's a cotton chenille, and I tested a swatch before putting it in the machine.  I've made quite a few tapestry jackets and I usually try to soften the fabrics by machine washing and drying.

Here are more details on the "trim" on my Japonesque jacket.  I laid out each pattern piece on the cutting table and chalked the lines into which the trim would be contained.  I cut the charmeuse pieces with a rotary cutter with no templates.  I cut off a small strip, with curved edges, and then cut the strip into random pieces roughly the same size.  I scattered these along the band area.  I then cut bits of the ribbon with a scissors and scattered them in between the silk.  In some instances they overlapped.  Then I cut lengths of yarn and threads and again scattered them over the other stuff.  I moved bits around till I got them the way I liked them.  Then I laid the netting over the bits and put in a few pins to hold things down while I stitched.  I used no adhesive.  I did about 3 rows of curved stitching along the length of each band and a row of straight stitching along each side.  I trimmed the net close to the long side that was visible.  The other long side was turned under with the hem.  After the jacket was constructed, I sewed another curvy row of stitching to hold down the hem and further hold down the bits.  They haven't shifted much at all. 

I've now finished the other In the Studio 7 jacket and am adding a picture of the front here.  There are more pictures in my Yahoo album for which there is a link in an earlier post.  This fabric and style is very different from anything else I own, and I like it, though I hope I'll have the courage--and the proper occasion-- to wear it.  I found an antique buckle in shades of green and gold that I'd had bought somewhere years ago because I liked it, and it works perfectly for this jacket.

Diane

Wow, Diane, very kewl jacket indeed, and the buckle is perfect for the closure.  I like the colors in it, which should look very nice on you.  With Spring finally on its way, you'll have plenty of opportunity to wear all three of your new jackets, I would imagine.  Just pull them out and wear them wherever--I bet you'll get tons and tons of compliments!

Thanks so much for posting the photo of your latest Studio 7 jacket.  I just went up a few posts to find the link to the rest of the photos of your newest creation and had a great time going through them.

Thanks, too, for the "how to" on the netting/charmeuse/ribbon trim for your black jacket.  It's an interesting technique, which sounds like a lot of fun as well.  Sometimes the embellishing can be the most fun part of making something.

My Textured Weft from www.appleanniefabrics.com came today--I bought 10 yards of it, and since it is 60 inches wide, it should last me for a while.  It was only $5.49 per yard, which was much less than when HTC sold it in only 30 inch widths, so I think I got a real deal.  Anne Kendall, the owner of Apple Annie Fabrics has named it "Angel Weft", since Textured Weft is a trademarked HTC name, even though they are no longer selling it.  I have already preshrunk the entire 10 yards and used a piece of it tonight in a jacket that I am "building".  (See, Diane, you inspired me to get going on a jacket! :))  It was the perfect place to compare Textured Weft with Angel Weft, since both of them are now in the garment.  I can honestly say that there is not a single bit of difference between them, so having Anne's AngelWeft in the wider width for the cheaper price is OK in my book any day.  With the money I'm saving on TW fusible, I may just have to go out and buy more fabric  ;) ;D!

Diane, your jacket is beautiful!  I love the colors and the pattern.  I'm also willing to bet it'll look great on you!

Diane, love the fabric for the jacket. You are right, the buckle is perfet for this project. Overall, a very nicely conceived creation.

Wow, I really like this new jacket.  The colors are great looking.  I keep looking at this pattern thinking I should try it.  Seeing yours is very inspiring. :)

Diane, seeing your jacket bonanza got me going this weekend.  Due to traveling and lots of commitments (am I singing anyone else's song here???) I hadn't had any good sewing room time for a very long while.  This weekend I decided to take my whining and complaining self on a trip to my sewing room.  Instead of looking at "must do" projects, I just pulled out one that I wanted to play with. 

I have a pattern for a One Seam Balenciaga coat from an old issue of Sewing Update.  I had made it once before in double georgette, many years ago, and loved wearing it, mostly as a cover for a sundress when we would go out to dinner and the movies in the summertime.  I pulled out some tweed that I bought a JoAnn fabrics a few years back when we were all starving for tweeds and JoAnn first started to carry them, and began to play.  I'm making the coat simple, simple, simple.  No lining or underlining, minimal interfacing, and I may just leave off the pockets if I don't like the look.  I hope to post photos in a day or so. 

It has been soooo good to sew again!  When I get "sewing starved", I envision myself as a lion pacing back and forth in a cage, waiting for someone to throw in a hunk of raw meat for it to chew on.  I often tell my DH to just lock me in my sewing room, toss in a few yards of fabric, and I will come out, a tamed beast  ;D ;D ;D.

Diane,  What a great jacket!  I love the buckle, and that's what I do too; pick up things that appeal to me and save them for future use.  They usually find a home eventually. :)  I think you'll wear this jacket a lot.  It looks very versatile.

Kathryn,  I  have that pattern too, but have never made it up.  I wish you would post a photo of your organza version as well as the new one that is apparently racing from your fingertips. ;D  You are prolific.

Liana, I didn't make it in organza, I made it in a double georgette.  Sadly, I don't have it anymore--I gave it to a friend who lusted after it mightily.  :)

I was always going to make another, but you know how that goes  ::).

Diane, your new jacket is lovely and what a wonderul buckle you had to go with it.  Perfect combination.

Kathryn, I am looking forward to seeing your coat.  Sounds wonderful!

Mardel, I've been meaning to ask--can you explain your avatar?  It looks as though it's composed of things to remind you of your hobbies.  I can't make out what is in the upper right corner, though.  And is the girl in the blue jacket you?  Wow!

Hi Kathryn:  I'm not sure my collage works well as an avatar, since everything is so small, but I was playing around and thought I would try.  The girl in blue is me and I originally put it up as my avatar, but it was only there about 2 hours while I played with the mosaic thingy.

I saw someone doing these neat photomosaics  and followed the trail to this site (http://flagrantdisregard.com/flickr/).  I didn't have a flickr account but decided to give it a try.  The pictures are, from upper left, clockwise, , a blooming orchid, only there because I love it, a fabric grouping in my new storage wall, me, and my straight needle collection.  I will try to post it below and see if I get a bigger picture. 

(http://static.flickr.com/35/121549231_12664ee768.jpg?v=0) (http://static.flickr.com/35/121549231_12664ee768.jpg?v=0)



In the end I might go back to that photo of me in blue.  I love seeing everyone's photos, but I am somewhat uncomfortable seeing my own and as a result hate getting my picture taken and usually get bad photos.  This is one of the few really good ones.  The mosaic is a nice compromise, it's not all me, but I'm there.

Wow, Mardel, what a pretty photo!  Was it taken on vacation somewhere?  You look so carefree and happy!

I like your idea of making a mosaic (thanks for the link to the site) of your favorite things.  I just couldn't tell the stack of fabric part.  I could see the orchid, but mistook the paintbrushes and drawing pencils as a wooden spoons and other wooden cooking utensils.  Maybe you could just post a bit larger version of the mosaic for your avatar.  I really love the colors and the textures of the entire mosaic.  Very artistic.

This fabric and style is very different from anything else I own, and I like it, though I hope I'll have the courage--and the proper occasion-- to wear it.  I found an antique buckle in shades of green and gold that I'd had bought somewhere years ago because I liked it, and it works perfectly for this jacket.


Diane, Your jacket is beautiful and I,for one, wouldn't wait another minute to wear it!!! You'll feel very special and want to wear it all the time.

Kathryn, So glad your AngelWeft arrived safely and that you have already begun using it!!!  I have a confession to make----I never pre-shrink my interfacings and have never once had a problem.  In fact, there was a problem the one time I did pre-shrink.

In May of 1999, I travelled to San Fransico to take Marcy Tilton's first Armani Jacket Workshop.  Ladies from my Saturday sewing class had invited me to join them on a sewing vacation. We had asssignments to fulfill before leaving home, one of which was to purchase and pre-shrink our interfacing.  An important part of the class was to choose the interfacing that was best suited to our fabric in keeping with the Armani-like look under Marcy's guidence.

What we all discovered after the class was that the interfacings did not stay fused.  And, we all admitted to each other that we never pre-shrink interfacing!!!

Anne

Anne, I've been preshrinking it for years.  Never had a problem except for the one time when I left it soaking in the water overnight.  All the glue had floated off by the time I found it.  Grrrr.

I soak all fusibles in lukewarm water for 20 to 30 minutes, then take it out of the deep sink and put it in the washing machine on the spin cycle for about a minute, just long enough to get the majority of the water out of it.

I hang it on the line to air dry, which takes less than an hour.

I never had a problem with fusing, and never had any bubbling with the fusible, which I had before my preshrinking days.  Maybe fusibles are enough different nowadays that preshrinking is not necessary, but for such a simple process, I'd almost rather be safe than sorry.

Your "no preshrinking" philosophy appeals, however.  Anything to flatten the trajectory of getting from the infamous Point A to Point B is OK by me!

Mardel, I love your mosaic, but have to admit I had wished I could enlarge it. Thank you for the blow up. The picture of you is amazing soooo European chic.

Mardel,  I really like your avatar too.  That photo of you is just so wonderful.  It looks like one of those rare candid shots that truly capture a personality.  :) I think the mosaic is very nice also, but it's nice to see it bigger too.  Are you wearing the waterproof silk jacket you made?  The fabric looks familiar, and very lovely. 

I want to thank Kathryn and Dragon Lady for all of their help getting me into this site. Sewing World does not recognize my password anymore and wouldn't let me change it. I can view Sewing World but, cannot post on it.
While I am drinking my tea before work in the morinings, that is my compiter time. I go to Sewing World every day and now plan on visiting this site daily, too.
I am busy working on my spring wardrobe. Claire Schaefer's flat front pants pattern fits me to a "T". I can make a pair in 4 hours, now. I just finished my black summer suit that includes a skirt in six fitted gores from Simplicity ( fisrt time I have used a Simplicity pattern in years) and a jacket from Nancy Erickson's 1945 pattern with 3/4 length sleeves and shortened the jacket by 6 inches. I am now looking at attachable trims, maybe multiple colors or white. The fabric I bought from Ginny's Fine Fabrics. It was expensive but, sews like a dream and is washable. It doesn't wrinkle and travels well. I also made white pants from this fabric last year and wore them to death and they still look great. Ginny also has some great neutral knits that I have made into some sleevless dresses to wear under summer jackets. I used Nancy Erickson's  sweater set pattern and lenghtened the shell according to the directions in her newsletter.
Once  of these days I will figure out how to post my picture, but until then, picture someone who is 5 foot 6 inches with medium brown hair and green eyes who is still 59. In my mind, I am still in my early forties !!

Hi Rheta!

It's so nice to have you here. :) 

For your avatar, you need to either (a) upload a digital picture of yourself or (b) direct link to a picture which is hosted somewhere else on the web.  You can do that from your profile (the profile button below the search window at the top of the page), then in the boxes on the left, click "Forum Profile Information." 

If you're going to upload your picture, choose that statement and then use the "browse" button to find the digital picture on your computer, then click "open" when you find it and that's it! (BTW, while other uploaded images will be deleted after 30 days, your avatar can stay! ;D). 

If you're going to direct link choose the "I have my own picture" statement and put the address of your picture there (the right one will end in something like "gif" or "jpg" (or some other image file format).  There are some photo-hosting sites which don't allow direct linking (or don't allow it for very long--for instance yahoo), if you run into that for your avatar, you'll want to upload instead.

If you have questions when you're ready to post pictures of your projects, look here (http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,92.msg331.html#msg331)  :D and let me know if I can help.

Lisa

Rheta, I'm so happy you made it!  It's great to read about your projects.  I've been eyeing that CS flat front pant pattern for a while.  You sure can't beat her instructions.  It's nice to hear that the fit is so good.


What kind of fabric is your suit made of, and what kind of trims are you interested in?  Have you looked at MJ Trimming?  Carolyn swears by them, and I have had wonderful service from them as well.  Here's a link to their site MJ Trimming (http://www.mjtrim.com)
For ribbons I love this site: 
Les Bon Ribbon (http://www.lesbonribbon.com/oscommerce/index.php)

And BTW, Rheta, you still LOOK like you're in your early forties!  Thanks again for joining this site.  It will be wonderful to be able to enjoy your posts again.

Kathryn, thanks for the link to the ribbon site, just what I need more temptation! :)  But I did notice that my ribbon "stash" is sorely lacking compared to other "necessary supplies"  ::)

Thank you everyone who complimented my photo. 

I am going to post the full photo of the blue top.  It is a silk duppioni with a silver metallic gleam that I got at Leandro Fabrics a couple of years ago.  The fabric is very shiny and reflective and my front door doesn't get much direct light so the picture is kind of wonky.

(http://restingmotion.typepad.com/photos/archives/blueice.jpg)

The pattern is an OOP Sandra Betzina Pattern for Vogue:

(http://restingmotion.typepad.com/photos/archives/vogue7360.jpg)

Rheta, It's nice to have you here, and posting, too!  I await your avatar with anticipation.  I have several of CS's patterns, but haven't gotten to them yet (is that the story of my life, or what?) ::)  How nice that you have them down to an exact science. :)  Your fabric sounds perfect; what is the fiber content?  A fabric that behaves like that is worth more, but the problem I have is that I never know it's going to be that great until it's all done.  I haven't made a Simplicity in many years either, but I hear they have improved immensely.  They look more interesting, certainly.

Mardel,  I just love that photo!  What a neat blouse that is.  It almost looks like you have ruching on the sleeve, but perhaps that's just a reflection on the fabric.  It's beautiful either way.

I haven't been able to get down to sewing again, as I think I haven't quite settled on what I want to do, so I'm knitting for the moment.  I'm halfway up the first sleeve on the bobbled sweater. :)

Mardel, you look like Katie Holmes in that photo.  However, I still think that "TomKat" sounds a bit better for the tabloids than "TomMard"  ;D

I am glad I saw your post for this site.  What a great source for ribbons!  Is there response time good? 

Their response time is great, Linda.  I have my orders within days of placing them.  Isn't the selection awesome???

Mardel,

Great photo and what a beautiful top!!! I'm only sorry the pattern has been discarded....

the Les Bon Ribbon site is wonderful!  must. get. off.  LOL

anyone have any suggestions as to where I could find something like this key clip:
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/mamafitz/nappybaginnerpocket.jpg)

I used to get them at my local shop, but they switched to exclusively quilting, and don't carry these anymore.  I love them and use them on bags and baby slings.  I only have one left!

Mardel, tell us a bit about that SB pattern.  How does it run to size?  Also, the sleeves look narrow--are they?  I have loved that pattern for a long time, and it is so flattering on you that I may just have to dig it out. Thanks for the inspiration.

Kathryn, the SB pattern was pretty consistent size-wise for me.  I am a D and I made a D and it fit pretty well with few adjustments.  I did not add anything to the upper arm, the measurements looked good, although I do not have slender upper arms, never have, not matter what size I was.  I did take the sleeves down and make them narrower at the wrist as they were much too wide for me there.

There are a couple of issues with this blouse.  This particular duppioni is very wrinkly, probably the metallic element, even more so than regular duppioni.  The blouse is underlined in organza and still crinkles up terribly.  The sleeves actually have several inches ease but fee tight when I move and I now realize that this is a sleeve fitting issue.  I made this before I did all that work on sleeve shaping with my knits last year.  I see I have work to do and things to learn on wovens as well.  What happens is I have way too much fabric in front, and not enough in back so that when I move my arms it pulls and wrinkles up.  It is a part of fitting that has always frustrated me but at least I feel I am beginning to get a handle on it.  I made the blouse at Sandra's workshop and we both had trouble fitting the bust/armsyce area and I see now that we were trying to do it without changing the armscye and shape of the sleeve head, a method that just doesn't work for me.  There always has to be someone that is an exception to the "rules". That is something to work on.  I also added a little extra waist shaping as the pattern was too big in the waist and looked matronly on me.   

I love the pattern and will make it again.  I just feel pretty wearing this top.  Once I figure out how to master my sleeve shaping and shoulder issues there will be no stopping me.  Unfortunately this is the kind of thing I can't really wing with my fashion fabric and it means more muslin work ahead (boring but worth it in the long run).

What happens is I have way too much fabric in front, and not enough in back so that when I move my arms it pulls and wrinkles up.  It is a part of fitting that has always frustrated me but at least I feel I am beginning to get a handle on it.


Mardel,

Vogue is notorious for having low armholes which leads to pulling and wrinkles in the upper arm area.  If you have a Burda pattern, you may wish to compare the two and see the difference. Burda not only cuts a higher armhole but the shape of the armhole is quite different than that of Vogue and the American patterns. Hope this helps you to perfect your pattern and ease your frustration.

Ann, I have noticed that about Vogue, and they often to flatten the top of their sleeve caps a little too much.  I almost always check that and  add height to the sleeve cap.

But I have forward rolling shoulders and a little collapse on one side of the chest (scoliosis).  I have to angle the shoulder seams forward from the neck, 1" on one side 1 1/2" on the other, and then I need to move the top of the sleeve.  You are right Burda and Neue Mode work better, but they all need altering for me.

What is new is that I am finally getting over the lessons I was taught that one should "never change the armscye and sleeve shaping".

I was very interested to read this as I have scoliosis as well. While I am constantly reminded that scoliosis causes my shoulders to roll forward and a high round neck, broad back etc... I never considered how this would affect the fit at the chest. I'm still trying to get a handle on my fit issues! Thanks for the info.

Melissa :D

Liana, I don't know the exact fabric content of my fabric, but I am going to Ginny's today and will ask her. It has the feel of 4 ply-silk but, it is not silk. She is having her twice yearly SALE from now until April 21st. Everything in the store is on sale from 10 to 75 % off. I have my list ready to go.
Lisa , thank you for your instructions. Someday, when I have the time I will try it.
It is great to be able to post again. For a long time I had just been a lurker on Sewing World.
Rheta

By clicking on the like below, you can see my latest creation, a Balenciaga One Seam Coat, made from a pattern published in the Oct/Nov 1994 issue of Sewing Update newsletter.

Kathryn's Balenciaga One Seam Coat (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fzxdoc/album?.dir=b0f4&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fzxdoc/my_photos)

I wanted to try this pattern again, altered more to my figure than my previous double georgette version.  In this one-seam design, the front, back, and sleeves are one origami-shaped pattern piece.  I therefore folded out two inches starting at the front hemline, up over the shoulder, and down the back to the back hemline.  This of course took a total of 4 inches out of the circumference of the jacket, and moved the dropped shoulders up onto my shoulders, for a more updated look.  There are separate pattern pieces for the front trim and the shoulder pieces, and I fused Armo Weft on both of these pieces, both the outside and the inside piece for each.  I felt that this alteration would preserve Balenciaga's intended silhouette for the coat but would make it slightly more "au courant".

I also sewed 2 inch seam allowances in the sleeve (instead of the drafted 5/8"), tapering to 5/8 at the underarm.  This narrowed the sleeve a total of 1.75 inches, until tapered at the underarm area.

I did not line or underline the coat and closed it with large snaps.  I added a decorative vintage button serendipitously discovered in my stash.

I wore the coat out to dinner last night and loved it.  It is a very drapey tweed, soft and lovely, purchased two years ago from JoAnn Fabrics. 

I made the coat partly as a wearable muslin, since I have a piece of red Italian angora which I wanted to know could be a candidate for this coat.  It would be more for winter wear, and would be lined and underlined, so this quickie project gave me a nice Spring coat and convinced me that I like the silhouette well enough on my to give it a go with my precious red fabric  :).

Kathryn, 

I love your coat!  It is so pretty on you, and I loved seeing it on you.  :)  I was surprised to see that it's a much shorter jacket than I'd thought it would be.  It's a nice length, and you did a lovely job, as always!

How did you enlarge the pattern?  Or did your friend send it already enlarged?  That's been my stumbling block, but I see that I should just get to it, and make one.

Thanks, Liana, for the compliments.  I didn't shorten the jacket at all.  In the Sewing Update newsletter, the pattern was drawn over a grid, on a 1 inch to one square scale.  I transferred it Pellon Tru-Grid, a non-woven interfacing like gridded material.  It was pretty easy to do, since there are mostly long straight lines in the design.  I think you should go for it, Liana.  With your height, it would look stunning on you!

Kathryn,

Just to add to my comments on SW - this would be great in your red angora. That high neckline would be really comforting and snugly for winter - I could really do with something like that right now as our awful weather just goes on and on.

Lovely...

Kathryn, the coat is beautiful and I love the way you placed the fringes amd it looks wonderful on you as well.  Reading your explanation of how you took the width down, and looking at the sketch and the garment on you was very informative and inspring. This will be truly awesome in red angora!

Oh Kathryn!  What a wonderful surprise on a lazy Sunday morning - one of your creations to enjoy with coffee ;D.  As usual it is stunning - simple but stunning.  And love seeing you in it :)

Wow! Kathryn, what a lovely jacket.  It looks great on you.  I love the entire look.  The button is perfect for it.  Your work is very inspiring.
:)

Someone asked me what the fiber content was