Stitcher's Guild

I was reading my March InStyle magazine last night (well, trying to, as best I could with the baby crawling all over asking to nurse), and there was a little section on white shirts.  I've always loved crisp white shirts, but have yet to find a good style for me.  How do you all go about finding inspiration, then making, that perfect shirt?  I'm short, smallish, but 34DD bra.  I don't tuck shirts in, they look dorky.  I haven't searched much, but is it hard to find a good, crisp white cotton/lycra? 

Look at this stunning Gianfranco Ferre shirt that was in the article:
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/mamafitz/ferreshirt.jpg)

I'm trying to inspire myself to make some lovely clothes. 

Good question.  I am on the same quest.  I have sewn one Neue Mode (conclusion:  love Neue Mode in general but didn't choose the right pattern for my needs) and traced several Burda WOF's including a princess seamed one, a fitted pullover version with side zipper, and one with cool pleats front and back instead of waist shaping.  All the traced Burdas are unsewn at this point.  I want a fabric that doesn't have to be ironed.  I would just buy them from somewhere, but I want to be able to tuck them in, and I am terribly long waisted.  How hard can this be?

I LURVE that shirt, mamafitz!

That really is a beautiful shirt, mamafitz, and I wouldn't wear a white shirt on a bet!  The style is great, though, and ivory would be "just as good" IMO.  ;)

It looks like it would be very simple to draft that style from a plain shirt pattern.  The main style feature besides the flared back seems to be all the seaming.  It looks like it probably has about 3 panels on each side of the front, and I assume either 7 or 8 in the back below the yoke.  These would be how the shirt is so fitted; you could really fine-tune the shape, and when you got below the waist in back, you would simply flare out each panel to the width you want.  It's a slash-and -spread method below the waist only, if you're doing flat-pattern manipulation.  I think you could get a shirt to look better than this, because this shirt doesn't fit the model at all through the neck and shoulders.  If I were her, wearing that shirt, the first thing I'd be doing it giving it a tug down in front. ;D

I don't think you'll have trouble finding a nice white cotton/Lycra.  They seem to add Lycra to almost everything now.

I like the bottom of the shirt, but I wish the sleeves were clearer -they look like they might be kinda funky.  :-\

Wow!  What a beautiful shirt.  I've been eyeing the new HotPatterns shirt.  I wonder how much work it would take to adapt it.  The sleeves do look interesting.  It reminds me a little of a Byron Lars pattern I just saw reviewed. 
Ann

Love the shirt!  I agree with Liana, you could probably modify an existing shirt pattern.  The sleeves look like they probably have oversized French cuffs, although the sleeve might flare just a bit below the elbow..  Ferre does beautiful structured shirts and they often have rather dramatic features, like the dramatic cuffs.  Even smaller French cuffs would look wonderful on this shirt though.

I've been eyeing the HP shirt too.  Thanks for reminding me about Byron Lars, I have at least 2 of his shirt patterns, and they are really fun looking.  Maybe I'll start with one of those....

Mardel,  I agree.  I thought it just looked like fairly prominent french cuffs.  You really can't tell the shape from this photo, though.

I was actually thinking about this in the shower this morning.  Do you happen to have Burda WOF 12/2004?  This princess seam shirt could take a collar and stand instead of the bow and you could insert pleats or godets in the seams.

(http://www.burdamode.com/images/repos/1/000/001/128/000001128059)

Mamafitz, Farmhouse fabric have the most gorgeous white cotton lycra, wide, and its a very good price.
I think if you look under miscellaneous fabrics, or under swiss cottons.  Its sort of a fine rib, you know the sort you
make baby clothes from, but it has that touch of lycra in it, which has made it work perfectly for nice crisp bouses,
that don't wrinkle.

Although if you are nursing, why would you want white!!  Just my thoughts from having grandkids around with their
grubby little fingers.

Fran

NZ girl -- thanks for the tip on Farmhouse Fabrics.  Completely forgot about checking out the heirloom sites. 

I always wear white -- it's one of my staple colors (or non-colors, if you will).  Bleach or Oxy-Boost takes care of any stains.  My babies always wear white too.  :) 

I was thinking yesterday, in the car, I have a really neat blue and white asian print that I think I'll make up one of the Byron Lars wrap shirt patterns I have, and use white for the collars and cuffs.  Now to actually do it!

I think I'm going to try drafting my own version of this:
[attachment deleted by admin]

I've not heard of Byron Lars... who and/or what is this please? Is there a website? Thanks!
Kathleen C.

Byron Lars was one of the Vogue young designers a few years back.  You can still get his Vogue patterns on eBay.  His designs rock!

His (Byron Lars) designs are really nice -- stylish, but a bit funky, I'd say.  I'll try and scan one or two for you, ok?  Prolly not til Monday, though, I don't get the puter on weekends (dh games!)

I loved the Ferre shirt too. but all that "fluff" in a shirt makes it hard to put a jacket over it. What I really want is a jacket with that bottom treatment. I love byron lars' shirts too but they aren't nearly big enough :P

Ah, now I remember the name from Vogue patterns. But I don't really remember the patterns so I'd love to see a scan. thanks!
I also love that Ferre shirt. A lot. But I wonder about whether the attention to the back end is what my back end really needs. This is on I would definitely make a muslin of first.
Hmmm... I don't see why you couldn't make a jacket or vest with this kind of seaming at the back. I'm working on my wedding outfit for mid-August, and I like the idea of an interesting back (since people have to look at that side of you for so long). It's another idea to percolate on.
Kathleen C.

The Ferre shirt is smashing! Having finally received my March Burda WOF, I am in love with this shirt --

(http://www.burdamode.com/images/repos/1/000/001/330/000001330514)

With those pleats that release at the waist and the seaming, this would be so flattering. Hope I get a chance to sew it before it gets too hot around here to think about long sleeves! I have a shirting bundle from FabricMart that is itching to be used for blouses.

Patti

Here are the two Byron Lars blouse patterns I have:

First, Vogue 1846 (http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/mamafitz/1846.jpg):

(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/mamafitz/1846.jpg)
This is the one (the large photo, view A), that I think I may make out of a blue/white koi print (think like a Ming vase), with white collar and cuffs.

Second, Vogue 1874 (http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/mamafitz/1874.jpg):

(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/mamafitz/1874.jpg)
View B (the large photo) reminds me a lot of a blouse Rene Russo wears in The Thomas Crown Affair (LOVE LOVE LOVE the clothes in that movie!).  View A (the pink blouse) is my favorite design in this pattern.

I didn't remember that these are size 12/14/16, so I'll do a quick and dirty muslin to check fit, and see if I have to scale down.  Ease styles change, I change, half the time I can't remember WHAT size I should start with!!!

::)

Ooh, very nice! I see what you mean about his style. Thanks for the photos... now I have another name to keep an eye out for when garage sale and thrift store pattern shopping.  ;)
Kathleen C.

(http://www.1sewingpatterns.com/images0/8152burb.jpg)

This Burda pattern (8152) looks alot like the Byron Lars. 

That "dramatic dovetail" is so attractive and slimming, it's unbelievable.  I have one very similar from Cato - a women's clothing store where I can find tops that fit reasonably well for Walmart prices.  Mine is pretty cheapo-ugly, but I bought it for the style.  I had an instnct and when I put it on -- well I had to have it.  I am ready to cut it up and experiment though.  I normally wear a 14-16 or XL in RTW tops.  That and the Burda right below get perfect shirt votes from me. 

I like the burda shirt, it is like the Byron Lars one.  I have that one.

The reason I got it, is that I too wear a DD cup, and find that as I have aged shirts or blouses tucked in, do indeed look
'dorky'.  And I find its really been difficult the last few years to come up with shirts or blouses that look good and do
not tuck in.

However, I have noticed of late that more pattern companies are putting darts and shaping back into their shirt and blouse
patterns and many are obviously drafted to be worn out.

Besides the Byron Lars one, I have another one that is similar, but I can't remember what designer it is, I think it came out at the same time.  Will have to have a look, it too has three views, and one has gathering on a rounded yoke, just at the back.
I think its a vogue individualist, or attitudes.

Fran