Author Topic: Hemming Matte Jersey  (Read 7068 times)

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Offline Gorgeous Things

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Hemming Matte Jersey
« on: September 27, 2006, 07:44:49 PM »
Anyone here have any words of wisdom for hemming matte jersey?  I'm just about finished with Butterick 4989.  The jersey is quite heavy, and the dress has a 1 1/4" hem.  I was debating whether to do a standard folded-over hem or whether it would be better with a serged rolled hem.  Any thoughts?

Thanks!
Ann
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Offline fzxdoc

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2006, 08:00:38 PM »
There are so many dresses out there now, Ann, with serged rolled hems, that I would almost recommend that route, unless you have a coverstitch machine that can make the hem without ripples.  It used to be that a serged rolled hem did not look "finished", but that was before the deconstructed movement hit fashion.  I've seen so many high end RTW lines with serged rolled hems on their tops and dresses over the past couple of years.

I'm going to keep watching this topic, because I'd love to read other's suggestions.  This might lead to a real discovery about the perfect way to hem a 'heavy-ish" jersey skirt.

BTW, I tried to look up the pattern on the Butterick site, but came up empty.  It must be OOP, so I can't see it.  Waaah!   >:(  I'll just have to wait until you post the details on your 'blog, Ann.

Offline IBoz

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2006, 08:06:35 PM »
Ann, I tried to find a pic of that pattern to think about your question, and couldn't find it.  Are you sure about that pattern number?  The only thing I found was an 80s children's pattern.

Ilean
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Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2006, 09:14:17 PM »
Oh Geez, I'm sorry! It's B4849. Here's a picture: Butterick 4849
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Offline Carolyn

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2006, 09:23:06 PM »
I just completed some one seam pants out of matte jersey and used steam a seam for the hem.  I was pleased with the results.
Carolyn

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Offline joan71

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2006, 10:22:27 PM »
I have used a product from The Sewing Place called Ultra -Soft Double Sided Fusible with great success on a couple of matte jersey skirts.  It is very similar to Steam-A-Seam Lite.
Joan

Offline fzxdoc

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2006, 11:32:28 PM »
Oh, no wonder I couldn't find it on the website, Ann! :) Here's the photo:


photo credits at www.butterick.com

Hmmm, now that I see the pattern, I'm not so sure about the serged, rolled edge.  I think it would probably work just fine but you may want a little weight at the hem to make it hang closer to the body.  Got a coverstitch machine??  :)

Carolyn and joan 71, how deep were the hems that you inserted with the fusible products?

Offline Albyn64

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2006, 11:57:08 PM »
When I have hemmed matte jersey, I used a double needle on a single basted fold. I tested to get the tension correct and avoid a defined ridge between the rows of stitching. HAve been pleased with the results on RTW pants which I was altering, a skirt and also on gaucho style wide pants.
The only diffiulty I had was at the rather bulky side seams of the RTW pants. Sewing slowly while easing the bulk under the foot enabled me to get a nice finish. Good luck - that is a nice pattern which should be so comfortable in a matte jersey.
Margaret

Offline joan71

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #8 on: September 28, 2006, 12:53:02 AM »
Carolyn and joan 71, how deep were the hems that you inserted with the fusible products?

My hems were about 1.25".....I see why you ask the question, Ann's garment would require a much more shallow hem, and the fusible may not be the best choice here.
Jjoan

Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2006, 02:20:12 AM »
This is a formal dress for a singing gig that I am doing for a major Catholic conference.  I'll be the soloist, and the presider is the number three guy at the Vatican, so it's a pretty big deal.  I think I'll go for a hand-stitched foldover hem for this one

Thanks all!
Ann
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Offline fzxdoc

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2006, 11:10:48 AM »
I'm sure your dress will be lovely.  I'm thinking the Vatican guy may not even notice the hem treatment  ;) .  Sing like a nightengale, Ann!

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2006, 01:16:12 PM »
I'm thinking flatlock the bottom hem line (my favorite method, saves on hem tape), measure hem up l" and pin, hand hem with a light hand, and final press the hem.

 I also hope you stabilized the skirt seams so the skirt length weight doesn't stretch longer than you want.

Offline Doris W. in TN

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2006, 10:32:13 PM »
Ann - I've sewn a few skirts from a JoAnn's  polester matte jersey  for travel and have turned the hems the usual 1 1/4" or 1 1/2".  Since these were for travel (wrinkle-proof!) and black I topstitched the hems 3/16" apart in two rows.  This may not be dressy enough for your dress but I think a hand-stitched hem would do fine.

Offline Portia

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2006, 02:18:06 AM »
Fred (of LaFred) used a wavy rotary cutter to cut the hem of a matte jersey dress--very classy looking!  Avoids hemming altogether and presents a kicky alternative.  Since it doesn't ravel, I am thinking about using this treatment for finishing Vogue 8305 jacket in matte jersey.

Offline fzxdoc

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2006, 11:59:12 AM »
Thanks for the LaFred wavy hem tip, Portia.  I bet that looks really cute!

Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #15 on: September 30, 2006, 01:08:29 PM »
I like the rotary cutter idea Portia.  That's really cool.  Not for this dress, but I have lots more matte jersey (did I mention that Kashi is one heck of a salesman?) in the stash waiting to be made up into winter garments.

Ann
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Offline Terri K

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #16 on: September 30, 2006, 08:33:00 PM »
What about the "Jean Muir Hem" as described in Marcy Tilton's Threads book, "Easy Gide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts"?   She says that it "is perfect for wool jersey and rayon matte jersey."
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Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2006, 10:50:24 PM »
Terri, I don't have that book, so I can't comment on that hem.  I'll have to check it out.  But woo hoo!  It's done!  Here's a picture:


The fabrication made for some very interesting issues, and I ended up blogging about them on Sewing Divas.  I did a review of it on PatternReview.  PhyllisC saw it today, and she seemed to like it.  I'm really happy with how it turned out, but man, what a (literal) piece of work!

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Offline fzxdoc

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #18 on: October 01, 2006, 11:06:59 AM »
The dress turned out really cute, Ann!  Can you post a link to your review (see how lazy I am!  ;D )  Also, I didn't see an entry about the dress on Sewing Divas.  I clicked your URL link under your avatar. Curiosity may get the better of me, and I may just sleuth it out myself!

Are the armholes high in the dress, or does it try to be an inset sleeve with a nod to dolman, since that is the Duro look.

TIA,
« Last Edit: October 01, 2006, 11:09:48 AM by fzxdoc »

Offline LindaF

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #19 on: October 01, 2006, 01:31:58 PM »
Ann,
Your dress is stunning! I hope we get to see photos of your singing gig!
Linda
I just went to the sewing divas to read your entry for the dress and it is not there.  I could have sworn I saw it last night, but was saving it to read today.
Am I cracking up?
« Last Edit: October 01, 2006, 01:53:12 PM by time2sew »
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Offline Liana

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #20 on: October 01, 2006, 03:06:33 PM »
You're really going to wow them Ann! 8)  What an exciting gig. :)

Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #21 on: October 01, 2006, 04:21:51 PM »
Ann,
Your dress is stunning! I hope we get to see photos of your singing gig!
Linda
I just went to the sewing divas to read your entry for the dress and it is not there. I could have sworn I saw it last night, but was saving it to read today.
Am I cracking up?

Try it now - I had to make some edits.  Sorry for any confusion!
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Offline MN_SwimMom

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Re: Hemming Matte Jersey
« Reply #22 on: October 04, 2006, 02:37:01 AM »
Great dress, Ann!  Especially love the trim.  Would love to see some pics from the singing gig, if you get them.  Thanks for sharing your experiences with this pattern and the fabric!  :)
Janet in MN

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