Bumping up in hopes someone can answer my question above, and I have another question.
I've got my real L. tape measure, and got 2 pattern books for Christmas. I started playing tonight with a jacket pattern. I'm a size 22ish in American Big 4 patterns, so I'm drafting the L. pattern up a significant amount.
I have a question about the sleeve.
From previously playing with the vest pattern, and tonight with the jacket, I've determined that I need to shorten the bodice patterns by about 3 inches. Logical assumption is that I will need to shorten the sleeve about 1.5" above the elbow, and this is also how it compares to my sloper. (The pattern has a 3/4 sleeve, and I'm going to leave the extra length on the lower sleeve.) In the picture of the jacket, the sleeve does not appear to have any "puff" and I don't want any, but the pattern of the sleeve cap came out significantly more "puffy-shaped" than my sloper sleeve. I could take out 1.5" just in the sleeve cap. By "walking" the armhole against the sleeve, I also get that adjustment needed.
Does the radial drafting typically affect the shape of the sleeve cap for the larger sizes?
Also, I thought that when drafting a sleeve, the curve of the underarm area of the bodice and the underarm portion of the sleeve are supposed to match. They do not on this pattern- neither on my draft nor on the original. The whole sleeve is much more precisely shaped than the front/back symmetry typical on American patterns, and I have no idea if that is the reason. Is the sleeve going to fit the bodice properly?
I'm sure when I make my muslin I'll find a few answers, but I'm trying to figure out the quirks of the Lutterloh system in general, not just how to fit this pattern specifically.