The skirt front draftartistwhosews wrote:
1. Skirt Back: draw a vertical line 73 cm for length of skirt. Shortening and lengthening can be done after skirt is drafted.
2. Calculate your waist measurement: Waist measurement divided by 4, add 4.5cm and add 1.5 cm and subtract 1cm. What's going on here is you’re using 1/4th of your waist measurement, adding 4.5cm for the elasticized waistband, adding 1.5cm for ease, but giving 1cm of this ease to the front of the skirt.
Draw the waistline calculation perpendicular (use your right angle) from the vertical skirt length line already drawn.
3. Calculate your hipline measurement: hip at fullest (mine falls below the 21cm waist to hip mark but I use the fullest if I want to get into this skirt) divided by 4, add 1.5cm for ease and subtract 1cm to give to the front of the skirt.
Draw this hip line at the distance from waistline to hipline (as given in the chart).
4. Draw a line parallel to the skirt length line from hipline mark to bottom of skirt hem.
5. On the hipline, mark a distance 10cm from center back of skirt (the broken line). Starting from the waistline, draw a line parallel to the skirt length line all the way down to the hem.
6. Mark a point 10cm from the hipline on the side seam side. Draw a horizontal line to the almost midpoint vertical line on the skirt. This is the point at which the bottom part of the skirt will flare out.
7. Mark a point 20cm from the previous 10cm line on the side seam as shown in the draft. This is the point where the skirt will flare out midway.
8. Draw the hem line and extend the side seam hemline by 2.5cm.
9. Midway down the skirt, mark the 0.5, 0.7 marks and the 0.7 mark at the side seam. Draw a line from the top of the 20cm spot down to the 0.5, 0.7 and the 0.7 marks.
10. Mark 2.5 and 3cm points on the hemline. Draw a line from the 0.5 and 0.7 midway up the skirt marks. Do the same to the side seam. This gives the skirt the bottom flare.
11. At the hemline, the corners of the pattern needs to be made into 90degree right angles. Make sure the length of each line is the same length.
12. Mark a point 2.5 cm from the hipline upwards. This is zipper stop point on the left side of skirt.
13. Waistline: Mark a point 1cm down from the center back of the skirt. Draw a line from the hipline sideseam to the waistline side seam. Mark a point 0.7 upwards on this line above the waistline mark. Take your waistline curved ruler and give the waistline a curved line.
14. Dart: Mark a distance 9cm from hipline upwards. This is where your dart ends. Divide 1.5 into half and measure half of this 1.5 on each side of line. This creates your dart.
15. Everything should be done now so take a tracing paper and trace the center back pattern piece. Make sure you trace the flared lines correctly. Then trace the back side skirt pattern piece. You may want to add seam allowances and add extra for the hem.
[attachment deleted by admin]