Author Topic: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)  (Read 427 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Patty_C

  • Member
  • Posts: 11
Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« on: March 03, 2014, 10:20:51 AM »
Hi Everyone!

I'm in a bit of a tiffy because I have a deadline coming up and I'm patterning a men's tailored jacket that I will be sending to production. While I'm skilled in patterning women's garments, I'm a newbie to patterning men's. In my Men's pattern book, it says that the back shoulder seam of the jacket sloper is supposed to be 1/2" bigger than the front. Can anyone explain to me why that is and is that true for the men's tailored jacket pattern as well? Does the back shoulder seam have to be 1/2" bigger? Also, does anyone have any tips for me when patterning this men's jacket?

Thanks in advance for your help! I really appreciate it!

xx


Offline PosyP

  • Member
  • Posts: 63
Re: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2014, 12:33:18 PM »
It is quite some years since I had much to do with making up men's jackets, but I do remember doing a 'first baste' (whilst on 'The Row') that the back shoulder piece was larger than the front and it had to be eased in to fit.  This might be instead of having a dart there to add extra fullnes for the shoulder blades. 

Sorry I cannot help further.

Offline BetsyV

  • Member
  • Posts: 5439
  • Gender: Female
  • Trillium Undulatum; Painted Trillium
Re: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2014, 12:45:56 PM »
That doesn't sound right to me, Patty. I've put together 2 different men's suit jackets and the back shoulder seam was nowhere near 1/2" longer than the front. Couldn't have - you couldn't ease 1/2" in only 6" length. Neither pattern used back shoulder darts. Both Vogue, one from the 1980's and one from 2012.

Offline AnnRowley

  • Global Moderator
  • Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3315
  • Gender: Female
Re: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2014, 04:02:03 PM »
It is standard tailoring practice, lady's and men's, to cut the back shoulder seam longer to allow easing. This allows the back to fall smoothly over the curve of the shoulder and shoulder blade. It should be quite easy to ease 1/2" into 6" in a wool tailoring fabric.
I'm afraid that I can't add anything else about men's tailoring - not my thing... :)

Offline Elona

  • Member
  • Posts: 2035
Re: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2014, 05:01:35 PM »
As Ann notes, this is indeed part of classic tailoring to reflect the body's shape.  A couple of decades ago, it was normal to see this feature in Vogue couturier patterns for women, and even now, it is a regular practice in most Burda jacket patterns.  I have eased that half inch without difficulty in wool, silk, and even a linen/cotton blend.

Since men have much heavier shoulder and upper back muscles than women, you really want shaping up there to accommodate that fullness.

Offline Patty_C

  • Member
  • Posts: 11
Re: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2014, 07:07:28 PM »
Thanks everyone! I will add the 1/2." Hopefully, the fabric used won't be too stiff then. Also does anyone know if the back armhole is supposed to be 1/2" large than the front? My pattern book says that the front and back armholes should be equal measurements on the tailored men's jacket? This I'm unsure about it as well.

Thanks!
XX

Offline Kathleen Fasanella

  • Member
  • Posts: 156
  • Gender: Female
    • Fashion-Incubator
Re: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2014, 02:35:01 PM »
The reason the back shoulder is larger (in both men's and women's wear) is because traditionally, there was a dart over the back shoulder. Darts are less popular these days so the excess can be eased in instead.

Context: You're new here so I'll mention that I own a CAD pattern service, providing services to the garment industry. My specialty is men's wear, particularly suits & coats. I remember when we still used back darts. Most RTW firms eliminated darts in the sportswear heavy 80's but shoulder darts were firmly out of vogue by the early 90's. Tragic, that. IMO
~Nurture people, not products~
Fashion-Incubator

Offline Patty_C

  • Member
  • Posts: 11
Re: Question about Men's Tailored Jacket ;)
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2014, 07:46:00 AM »
Oh wow, thanks for the info Kathleen. That definitely makes more sense now. And I agree, it's too bad a back shoulder dart is no longer popular. I think it looks quite nice.

Thanks again!

Patty

 

Gorgeous Fabrics Fabric Mart Fabrics