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CCL's Sew What You Got - 2021 SWAP

Started by CCL, December 07, 2020, 12:33:03 pm

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December 07, 2020, 12:33:03 pm Last Edit: December 21, 2020, 04:24:39 pm by CCL
First draft of plan... subtitled: "Sew 'em up!" I will probably change these - but for now, I decided to sew up some projects that I have been wanting to get to all year.  I already had the fabric slated for each garment - though I have waffled a bit on patterns (which I may still do).  Some of these were in my 2020 Sew Along SWAP - which I never really worked on beyond a couple of pieces.  Mainly, I have rolled my Loosey-Goosey 6-Pac over into my 2021 SWAP and added a couple more things.

Here's my horrible sketch.

draft one 2021 plan

Left to right:  Two shirts;  skirt / culottes; 4 dresses; one vest, two jackets.  Green shirt dress is my previously made (still waiting on buttons to arrive to finish up) and the blue and green plaid skirt is my made after the rules posted.  If I get lucky and these are finished before December 26th, I will probably cut out the black fleece jacket as I wear these a lot during winter.

Patterns:  (two shirts and shirt dress) V8772; (skirt and culottes) OOP V2433 and OOP V9608; (dresses) V8772 again, V8146, OOP V8615, and B6388 (or maybe Lekala #4742 - still thinking about it); (vest) V8820; (jackets) V7975 and lekala 4398 

2021 fabrics

ETA:  Taking a page from Pagog where she identified which fabric goes with which intended garment.

Top row:  Black Polartec fleece for Lekala jacket; green wool open weave crepe for V8772 shirtdress; maroon and grey wool plaid for V8146 dress and V7975 jacket;  grey wool crepe for OOP V8615 dress; red sweatshirt fleece for B6388 dress.

Bottom row:  Deep seaweed green wool tricotine for OOP V9608 culottes; dark navy with blue and apple green plaid for OOP V2433 skirt and OOP V8820 vest. White linen/rayon and blue flower cotton silk voile for V8772 shirts.


December 24, 2020, 12:44:17 pm #1 Last Edit: January 10, 2021, 12:07:58 pm by CCL
I redid my plan sketch - though not much better in the drawing part, at least I have the patterns in there and I took a page from Turquoise - centered the drawing on the one item  (the Lekala black fleece jacket) that will go with everything (an idea from IndigoTiger's 2020 SWAP rules). 

draft one 2021 plan - updated with new photo

Doing this, I realized that:
  • All the patterns are ones I have made before - so no muslins.
  • Many of these items rolled over from last year's SWAP to the Loosey Goosey Six PAC and now to the 2021 SWAP, so the ideas have been around awhile.
  • With the exception of the Lekala jacket and the butterick sweatshirt dress -these are all Vogue patterns and most of them out of print.  Don't know what that says about me, but there you have it.
  • This is a winter SWAP - most everything is wool.

Staring into my crystal ball, I think what will really happen is I will get half of them made up - and then probably switch to sewing either a summer 6-PAC or some shirts that I need to make for BH.


December 25, 2020, 02:30:20 pm #2 Last Edit: December 25, 2020, 03:26:39 pm by CCL
Today, I finished hemming my "started after the rules were announced" garment - the OOP V2433 Ann Klein skirt - it has a kick pleat - which I love - but I didn't get a shot of that.  The fabric is a navy blue with a light blue and apple green thread check - have to click on the photos to enlarge in order to see the checks.

V2433 front

V2433 side

Skirt is underlined, using the underlining to edge the seam allowance.  I used canvas for the interfacing of the waist line - since it's a hollywood waist needing more support. Fabric was purchased in Dec. 2018 from FabricMart.


So the buttons I ordered on 10/31 for the green wool crepe shirtdress came today 12/28.  Now I can go back and do the buttonholes, sew on the buttons and put in the hem.  This was supposed to be my previously made garment. Sigh.
I ordered a couple of options, so just need to decide which I want to go with.


Finished up buttonholes and buttons on previously made green wool gauze shirtdress.

shirtdress with belt

shirtdress without belt

I think the braided belt is too chunky, so ordered a skinny belt - black - so it will go with lots of things.


I really need to thank everyone for getting my sewing going again.  @kowgiirl.up helped me rethink the black braid belt - I like it a lot better after her comment (though I did order a skinny belt).   Here's a photo of it on, with the belt.

V8772 shirt dress - arms back


January 06, 2021, 11:46:57 am #6 Last Edit: January 12, 2021, 09:58:10 am by CCL
So this coat belongs really to last year's SWAP that I never finished.  But I had hoped to have the coat and the shirtdress done by Christmas - as the two together are somewhat Christmasy.  Both got delayed by buttons, button holes, and my lack of courage.

Although I liked the purchased buttons I had auditioned last year, I also liked the look of the coat without buttons at all.  So before warmer weather descended in 2020, and as a compromise, I made up a set of covered buttons.  I liked the look but then I was unhappy with - for the buttonholes -the red thread I had used for top stitching.  When closely spaced as for buttonholes, everything looked too orangey red.  I then began purchasing bunches of red thread  (COVID - no in person shopping) to try to find a better one for the button holes.

Time passed and  I finally found a perfect red match, but then fear of messing up the coat overtook me... until inspired by all you SWAPPERs, I finished the buttonholes on the green dress.  So that helped me get up courage. 

Ended up reviewing the New Mexico Extension's advice (I will dig out the link later) and ended up with a combination of shims and tracing paper (four layers) as stablizer between presser foot and fabric.  Each button-hole took two tries, so there was a lot of unpicking.

B6385 Lisette coat front

  - B6385 coat over V8772 dress -

           B6385 back

I am considering including it in this year's SWAP -- another previously sewn, I guess -- - maybe as a replacement for the red plaid jacket.  Still thinking about it.


Cut out the Lekala black fleece jacket.  I have made three of these over the years, time to retire and refresh.  Wear them a lot inside during the winter.

Debating putting zippers in the pockets.  Did it for the first time on a jacket for BH.  Haven't decided if I really want to do it for myself. 


Finished the simple lekala 4398 jacket last night.  Polartech fleece - a moleskin 300 weight.  Nothing fancy but it gives me another layer of warmth - quite useful on our 10 degree F day.  I lightened the exposure using my cell phone - it's really quite black.

lekala 4398 jacket on Emily by CCL photos, on Flickr

Here's it on me, over the Style Arc Alexi turtleneck and the colorblocked (suede and wool) skirt from the 2018 SWAP Sewing.

Lekala 4398 jacket by CCL photos, on Flickr

Up next another easy sew - the Butterick sweatshirt dress - in a bamboo sweatshirt knit fleece.  I have made this pattern previously a couple of times for me and once for dear niece, but in heavier weight sweatshirt fabric.  I am a tad worried that my fabric is a little light, but am going to give a go because I don't really have any other ideas about what to use the fabric for.


January 24, 2021, 03:43:40 pm #9 Last Edit: January 25, 2021, 08:45:33 am by CCL
Rats.  I tried laying out B6388 on the fabric I have and I am short.  I usually buy too much, but this time I am not sure how to finagle that last piece out.  So I am going to have a rethink.  Fabric.com still has a few yards left, so I could pick up a yard, but man, I hate doing that!

Edited to Add: I traced a smaller size - which I think I can get away with as the fabric is much more stretchy than the previous fabrics used for this pattern as well as being a bit lighter weight.  I also decided I could live with cutting the bottom parts of the sleeves going against the nap / grain... and that way I can just squeak out the pattern.  BH encouraged me to go ahead and buy more fabric, but it's only January and I am really trying to limit fabric purchases this year to only linings and other bits and bobs to complete projects using fabric already on hand.  I will just have to give a go and see...won't be the first time I come up with a dustbin rag.


January 27, 2021, 09:48:39 am #10 Last Edit: January 27, 2021, 09:53:42 am by CCL
Grrrr.   I am the first to admit that I am not knowledgeable about knits.  But the yardage I purchased for the B6388 dress seems sadly off kilter.  So in addition to not having quite enough for my usual size, the fabric seems scatterwampus.  Determined not to waste this piece (it was bit pricey for me), I decided to try cutting each piece separately. So I traced duplicates of every piece not needing to be cut on the fold.  I did a rough layout of where I though the pieces would fit. I ran a basting line down a rib at the approximate point of the grainline marking on the pattern.  I matched marked grainline on pattern to basted line on the fabric. (The big blank space in the middle is for the other side of the collar and the front which are cut on the foldline.)  I have managed to get everything but one of the four pocket parts (I will piece the last one).  I managed it with only a couple of chunks missing in some of the seam allowances.  The bottoms of the sleeves will have nap running in the opposite direction.  I can live with that.

Only a crazy lady would go to this much trouble on what will most likely become a "binner."

basting a rib line to get 'grain' in a knit by CCL photos, on Flickr

I probably could have just cut it off kilter - but I really would like - if it turns out to be wearable - to avoid fabric twisting.


@stephaniecan, as noted previously, your great vest pattern has me rethinking my vest.  I found what I think is the same thing (Burda 6172)
It would end up costing me over $25.00 - unless I can find a different supplier.

So I am also wondering if I can adapt a couple of vest patterns I already have for BH -Butterick 6502 but resize and lower the collar.  Or maybe Vogue 7488 - and just do the double breasted view B. -- The Vogue would probably require less sizing as it has a XS version that I could start with.

So rethinking what is it that I like about Stephaniecan's vest.  I think it comes down to that it is sculpted, nipped in at the waist (through the use of darts),  has a shawl collar and button interest.

Unfortunately I am sort in that place of not wanting to fuss too much - so even undertaking working a new pattern was my big challenge this sewing season. My previous alternative to my tried and true was going to be V9138 - though with real welt pockets instead of just welts. -- wondering if I can take that pattern, lower the neckline, add a shawl collar ....

Mutterings out loud.  May keep looking for a less expensive version of the Burda pattern.

In terms of real sewing progress, started on B6388 last night.  So far the "ongrain markings" are holding up, but I am not getting my hopes up that this will end up a wearable garment.

On the other hand, wearing my black polartech fleece today  (3 degrees outside) and very happy I got it finished before the really cold snap hit.


February 02, 2021, 09:14:28 am #12 Last Edit: February 02, 2021, 09:23:46 am by CCL
So far, so good.

White basting thread marking the grainline on all the back pieces and sleeves.  Not noticing too much of a shade difference with the sleeves cut in opposite direction of the body.

B6388 with rib-line basting (for grain) still in by CCL photos, on Flickr

Going to baste up the side seams later and see if the fit is not too tight. 

Thanks to @stephaniecan and @Hilda Rose for the links to the vest pattern and burda magazine - Am adding to my pattern stash!


February 04, 2021, 08:51:44 am #13 Last Edit: February 04, 2021, 09:08:46 am by CCL
What's great about digital photos is that they can give instantaneous feedback on fit, problems etc.  Double-edged sword. 
Unfortunately I saw immediately from these photos that my hem needs redoing.  I have already ripped it out.  I am thinking I might use a doublesided fusible instead.  Or lengthen and try a dual needle (ugh, I don't really want to) top stitching.  Will think about it some more.

B6388 Back by CCL photos, on Flickr
B6388 Front by CCL photos, on Flickr

The black lekala jacket and this B6388 dress complete the "comfy-never-leave-the-house" portion of my plan. They were my "easy sews" to try to sneak up on something more challenging.


Hem redone - lengthened and straightened.

b6388 rehemmed by CCL photos, on Flickr


February 07, 2021, 11:46:05 am #15 Last Edit: February 07, 2021, 11:50:03 am by CCL
So it's snowing outside - predicted 5 to 8 inches.  I can either do my taxes or dither and daydream about my next project.  I have two more wool pieces that if I want to make something that I will wear this season, I need to get busy. I actually hope to get dresses and jackets out of each.  I have three yards of the grey wool crepe (from the Woolhouse) - I have black lining (more appropriate for a jacket than a dress) and some purple Ralph Lauren rayon/poly from FabricMart.

The dress pattern I am considering is a late sixties/early seventies Vogue (V8615) that I have made at least once.  I would do it with 3/4 sleeves or full sleeves... I also have some white, turquoise, and cerise lining on hand, but if I stick to what I have, the purple for the dress is the most fun - I can use black lining for the jacket (which might give it a bit more versatility).

Grey wool crepe- purple

Vogue 8615 View B

Finished Bootstrap 4167 Jacket - unbuttoned

The crepe has some drape and I think this pattern will work - not sure though.  Haven't decided on a jacket pattern for this - a jacket out of the grey wool wasn't part of the initial planning -but if enough fabric, the bootstrap military jacket might be fun.

The other possible project to start is the 2.5 yards of maroon, black and grey plaid from Sawyer Brook.  I am thinking of a basic Vogue sheath pattern for the dress and this jacket pattern (V7975) - I am pretty set on the jacket, but the dress is more open.  If there isn't enough... this might become jacket and skirt.  I can use black lining, or I might have to order some maroon lining - if I want to go that route.

Wool plaid - 2.5 yards

Vogue 7975 jacket


The Burda magazine came from Ukraine - with Stephanie's vest in it.  Now I just have to wait until I have some free time to puzzle out which pattern pieces to trace.   I am hoping I can construct the garment from the diagrams without having to learn to read Ukrainian.


Not much to report - after thinking through the tweaks I want to make to OOP Vogue 8615, I decided I'd be better off doing a muslin after all - putting in front darts, grading out sides for a bit more flair, changing up the sleeves and neckline.  Managed to cut out the muslin, no sewing yet.  Did order the lining fabric for the maroon plaid.  I quickly shut the Burda magazine with Stephanie's vest pattern.  I am still in my not-wanting to fuss too much mode, so I may jump to summer shirts after this - the silk voile and the linen and cotton.  Not sure, just took on another work project that might keep me too busy for much sewing.


March 05, 2021, 04:40:14 pm #18 Last Edit: March 06, 2021, 01:04:11 pm by CCL
I am hoping to actually get some sewing in this weekend.  Mostly muslin work, ideally it will be worth doing a muslin even though I am just tweaking an already sewn successfully pattern.  Actually kind of happy to be working on a muslin, no pressure not to mess up!

Edited to add:

Here's the first run at the muslin (based on OOP V8615 - the orange, blue white challis dress above beside the soft grey wool fabric for which it is intended).  I had hoped that I could take out a little of the ease on the sleeve cap, but after sewing it up, that doesn't look feasible - so I will just have to do a good job! 

I think the added darts front and back work, but I am now second guessing my decision to grade out the skirt for a little more flare/drape.  The muslin fabric is, of course, much stiffer than the soft drape of the wool I plan on using for this, but I still think I should take out a little of the flare that I added to the original pattern.

I think I will go with the long sleeve - was considering bracelet or three quarters, but this will be warmer.

I pinned up the hem, trying to get an idea of length I want.  Ignore the knee socks -  ;D

After this photo was taken,  I also pinched out a little to accommodate shallow chest (fisheye dart).
Now I have to take in the flare for so I can compare with and without. 

Also - need to think about how I want to do the lining... should I go ahead and use neck facings in the wool and attach the lining to them? Or, should I just cut the lining to attach at the neck line?  Decisions, Decisions!

muslin by CCL photos, on Flickr


March 07, 2021, 04:42:05 pm #19 Last Edit: March 07, 2021, 05:05:20 pm by CCL
So I had an inspiration last night.  I have some black wool tricotine in my piles of fabric.  I think I am going to try the refashioned OOP V8615 in that fabric before cutting into the beautiful grey wool.  I am still "sewing what I got" so not feeling guilty about the hesitation to cut into the good stuff.


March 14, 2021, 10:57:47 am #20 Last Edit: March 14, 2021, 11:01:41 am by CCL
Managed to get the refashioned OOP V8615 pattern cut out in the wool tricotine.  Ended up taking 3/8 to 1/2 inch out of the sleeve and a 1/2 inch shallow chest adjustment, tapering to nothing at the arm sync.   Did the shallow chest adjustment on the muslin and it worked.  Winged it on the sleeve narrowing.

Marked the darts etc. yesterday.  Not much time for sewing lately - and think I will postpone until Fall the winterwear sewing.  So I reluctantly put the plaid and the grey wool back in stash.  If I am able, will move to working on the white blouse and cotton silk blouse as these would be summer wear.  But first my trial run in the wool tricotine for V8615 and then too, trying to think about what to do with the left over tricotine - wondering if there is enough for shorts?  Wool shorts?  Could try piecing them.

@stephaniecan - would you mind taking a photo of the Burda vest pattern pieces and posting them?  I think I could use a little help identifying them on the pattern sheets with all the Ukranian labels!