SWAP 2021 - General Discussion Thread

[stephaniecan]

@CCL I'd be honoured to have such a fine twin! To be perfectly frank, the main reason that I have never tried Lekala, etc, is that I don't have a printer at home. My printer died a number of years ago and I never replaced it. I am slow to deal with issues like this, which is why my personal laptop is also on its last legs and I have been considering the options for the last eight months!

I also am always attracted to vintage Vogue patterns, so that has dominated my repertoire (apart from Burda, which provides an easy supply of reliable basics that I know how to fit).

I, too, truly love natural fabrics and spending time with my hands on the fabric. I loved making my wool coat last spring (which is almost done except delayed because I took on a time-consuming embroidery project on the pockets that is sitting in a bag). I'm feeling that this sort of project is what is going to bring me the most joy this winter. I really need to make up my mind though and just start - I drive myself crazy with my indecision.

Thanks for your input! I will take a look at Lekala and Bootstrap!

[Lisanne]

@Lisanne, is the technique you are referring to called the Continuous Chain...something like that?

I think it's "endless chain" 

Fitting - Not my strength, either.  Have you tried Lekala or Bootstrap?  @Towanda hooked me on those lines - plug in your measurements, pay your $3.99 and get your PDF pattern.

If you're fairly close to average.  The bits of me that don't fit are all things that don't get included in easy fitting methods : sloping shoulders, forward neck, high hip bones, sloping crotch curve, armpit not half way between shoulder and waist, deep torso. . .  I've got good slopers now but it took years !

Even the basic 3 can trip you up.  Patterns and easy fitting methods assume half of your waist and hips is at the front, half at the back.  Years ago I wrote a post comparing my basic measures (bust, waist, hip) front and back with pattern measures, as I'd found in all three I'm a different size front and back.
My Big 4 pattern sizes :
. . . . . front . . . . back. . . . total
bust . . . . 14 . . . . 16 . . . . 16
waist . . . 24 . . . . 14 . . . . 18
hip . . . . . 16 . . . . 22 . . . . 18
https://sewingplums.com/2011/11/26/getting-to-know-my-sizes/

Sorry to go on about this, obviously I can still get worked up about the difficulties of fit 
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com/2020/07/02/fitting/

You're very lucky if you've found an 'easy fit' method that works for you !

[stephaniecan]

@Lisanne Thanks! Yes, fit is a whole different country. Thanks for this! I am going to read your posts.

Like most people, I have a range of fitting challenges. I mostly have them worked out, but there are things that really stump me sometimes (odd drag I wasn't expecting). I have mostly worked out the best size for me. I have a small upper body but a large bust, but because I also have small shoulders, I always find that going with the upper bust measurement works best and then adding an FBA (but getting the FBA right, depending on the design, I find to be a huge hassle...). I probably could do some more work on my shoulder adjustments as my shoulders become more hunched over with time (and probably leading to some of the drag lines that I can never figure out).

On the lower body, I have narrow hips, but muscular thighs, so I always have to fiddle with things so I don't have gaping at the top or in the hips, or with a smaller size I have to adjust the crotch height and the thigh area. Sometimes my standard approaches work, and other times they don't.

I'd just really like to have a magic fitting fairy who could prepare my patterns so I could skip the whole shebang and get sewing!!

[kowgiirl.up]

@treefrog , I love the little starter gif. How cool!!

I see everyone is just going gangbusters. This is great motivation for me too. There's lots of activity that I will need to catch up on. I had been doing a good job of staying up to date with all the posts BUT.... on the 27th we welcomed my very first great grandbaby and a healthy one at that  . I sure am thankful for FaceTime and phone calls. All of this has kept me a little distracted. Today I printed off a newborn cap pattern that I'm going to throw in with my SWAP sewing. I have some nice camo print that would just be so cute made into a cap or two!

[sharonspils]

@Karamiel thank you for the compliment and this is why we choose different fabrics, I have friends who would never wear a plain fabric for the same reasons.

Congratulations @kowgiirl.up on your first great grand baby, how wonderful and we are all thankful for our technology now.

I've been playing around with moving darts to make a French dart on my Kate top to help take some of the fullness out of the bodice.  My toile says it is not quite correct, so off to do more research, I don't think I have taken it close enough to the Apex.

[indigotiger]

so much progress and good plans being made... I love seeing it here and feeling inspired to continue sewing!

I will say that I probably will not make more thumbhole cuffs in the future. The concept works just fine, but when the cuffs are not being used in that way, the cuffs look "odd" with either an opening that shows the wrist, or if turned back and "cuffed" they have a wierd layered gap where the thumbhole is. OTOH my turtleneck experiment turned out just right, and the paper pattern piece has been transfered to cardboard and strung on the hook with the rest of that pattern in my TNT pattern storage

[Turquoise]

@indigotiger - great to hear that your turtleneck worked out fine 

[stephaniecan]

@indigotiger - I enjoyed reading about your turtleneck draft.

I have a couple of tops (running tops only) with the thumbhole cuffs. I find that they are OK for running in weather in which I don't want to wear gloves but my hands could use the extra warmth. That said, I wouldn't say they are essential or aesthetically pleasing.

[stephaniecan]

So many interesting plans taking shape.

@CCL Love the green dress! It's the kind of garment I love to wear - classic but can be dressed up with accessories.

@Upstate Linda So much fun with all of those leopard prints!

I traced a waistcoat pattern (short) yesterday and did a preliminary FBA. Time to do a toile to find out whether I'm crazy. After that I want to find some brocade or jacquard to use to make one. I'm definitely leaning towards quirky garments this time. My partner, when I told him about the vest, said it would be perfect for playing billiards...

[treefrog]

@Karamiel Welcome to SWAP.  I'm looking forward to seeing what you make.

@indigotiger I'm so glad your turtleneck worked out

@CCL Your shirtdress is so beautiful!

[sharonspils]

@CCL love your shirtmaker dress.

@indigotiger well done on working out the cowl for your top and very impressed you have put it on cardboard for future use.

@treefrog so glad you pattern Tetris worked out, and love seeing your plans.

Now I need to head back into the sewing room and finish up a test Kate top which if it works will be another garment for SWAP.

[Turquoise]

@CCL Great shirt dress.

@Pagog I have that Kwik Sew pattern too, it's a lovely top to wear isn't it.  Someone recommended it to me or I would probably never have noticed it.  You're SWAP is really coming along now 

[Turquoise]

@treefrog - I've just read your blog about reworking the McCalls blouse.  That's a great save; the ottobre blouse with that fabric is lovely and I can't notice any patch.  I love the hidden placket and I'm off to look at that YouTube video now 

[treefrog]

Thank-you @Turquoise I was a bit worried about adding in the patch, but the print helps in blend in very well.  I'll have to remember this next time I am running out of fabric - a little extra seam is not such a bad thing. 

Please do check out the video.  I found them last year when I was making the linen jacket and watched the series of videos the had of the making one, particularly doing the collar.  They have such beautiful technique, even just watching how they use an awl as they sew has come in useful.

[treefrog]

So how did the weekend go?  Did you get a new project cut out?

It is so nice to see new plans going up in the individual threads. 

[stephaniecan]

@Pagog Your comment about not usually using the same pattern twice resonated with me. For some reason I always feel the need to try new things, too, which is not always the sensible way! The blouse looks lovely, too.

@Karamiel I love both of those patterns and can't wait to see the garments! I might have to make the same dress!

@Medea Your collections are always so pretty and cohesive. So nice to see your plan go up! (I had forgotten about the Algebra style SWAP and had to remind myself of how it worked, even though I actually completed a SWAP that year I think. Oops!)

I cut out the toile of my waistcoat this weekend, which is something. I'm not sure why, but I feel as though I have gone off the rails already. I did try on a whole bunch of old me-made things today to try to figure out what fitting changes I want/need to make and what styles I am feeling most comfortable with now (and testing the Christmas waistline against the patterns!). I think I just need to start on something (after the waistcoat) that I am sure about, and then maybe things will start falling into place.

[indigotiger]

Given how seamlessly the new navy mushroom turtleneck knit top fit into my current wardrobe, I decided to go ahead and use the other length of cotton lycra knit I have, which is a pale turquoise blue mushroom print. It was a real challenge to get enough pattern pieces fit into the fabric, since unlike the navy mushroom print, this one was a one-way directional print!

I had to cut the neck pieces in two halves and sew them together along the top "fold" and there was not enough fabric for my usual additional band along the bottom edge on the inside (so I will have to use some other, dissimilar, fabric...) it won't really matter much, since no one ever sees the inside bottom edge, but I find that adding a wide inner band instead of a narrow hem means that the lower edge lays flatter, and doesn't curl up like always annoyed me with other bottom edge treatments I have tried. I serge the two layers together at the very bottom edge, and then do hand-stitching along the upper edge. It is an unconventional treatment, but works for my own needs. I always cut the inner edge band so that the "curl" of the fabric counteracts the curl of the body fabric

[kowgiirl.up]

@Upstate Linda , your fabric choice for your SWAP looks so fun. I have not been brave enough to try leopard prints and I am not sure why really. I am looking forward to see your end results

@boppingbeth , I'm sorry for the loss of your son in law. I am hoping that 2021 will be better for you.

@CCL, your shirt dress is a knock out. I love the color and I will confess that I really like that chunky belt. I bet it feels good to have "one down" well I guess it's two with the hemming of the skirt.

@treefrog, I really stink at math so with any luck I will be able to follow your SWAP I am happy to see you uncluded a link to your blog post on the jeans.

@Pagog, Thank you for posting a pic of the jean pattern you will be using in your SWAP, it's one I hadn't seen before. I like your plan of doing some each day, big or small. I think I am going to try to do that myself.

@Medea, I'm glad you joined us!

@Karamiel....   

@stephaniecan, great button choice for the shirt and I agree that it adds festive-ness. Great pic by the way!

[Melinda_B]

@Pagog Your comment about not usually using the same pattern twice resonated with me. For some reason I always feel the need to try new things, too, which is not always the sensible way! The blouse looks lovely, too.

I'm looking at everything I want to make and thinking I'll use each pattern at least twice, in very different fabrics.  It just seems such a high cost to buy a pattern and then only use it once.  Plus the time spent in getting the fit right

[stephaniecan]

@Pagog Your comment about not usually using the same pattern twice resonated with me. For some reason I always feel the need to try new things, too, which is not always the sensible way! The blouse looks lovely, too.

I'm looking at everything I want to make and thinking I'll use each pattern at least twice, in very different fabrics.  It just seems such a high cost to buy a pattern and then only use it once.  Plus the time spent in getting the fit right

That's a good point, Melinda.

For me, it's usually a non-issue as I rarely buy separate patterns (other than vintage ones) but rather use patterns from my Burda Style magazines (which I buy in Italy for about 4 Euro a piece, which means that I have a lot of patterns in my collection that cost very little). I agree that it generally doesn't make sense to spend the time fitting a pattern if it is not put to much use (although I learn from the process each time). On the plus side, switching patterns often has given me an opportunity to try many different finishes, yoke treatments, shoulders, cuffs, collars on shirts. This means that I have narrowed down the choice sets to things that I'll use again and things that I would have been better off not trying!!

[Grasshopper]

Just checking in... It's lovely to see all the plans and progress being made.  I'm still here, but have had to put SWAP a bit on the back burner for the last week or so due to "life" stuff.      I know, I know... how dare life get in the way of sewing!  lol  I hope to be back in the sewing room for a bit tonight, though.

[stephaniecan]

@Grasshopper Waving hi!

Imagine life getting in the way! Having just finished the workweek I am determined to start sewing bright and early tomorrow.

[treefrog]

Woohoo, it's the weekend!  I'm hoping to get some sewing done over the weekend. Hubby has been on hols until Monday and has started building the chicken shed, so I keep getting dragged in to help.  We are pouring concrete for the footings today.

@Pagog @Melinda_B @stephaniecan I enjoyed reading your take on re-using patterns.  I have a few staples that I use time and time again, and often modify them to get another style.  For me, the fitting process on new patterns can often be time consuming, and it is quicker to work from something that fits.  But I do like trying a new style, particularly if  it is really unique

@Grasshopper Hope things settle down soon and you can get a little sewing time

[stephaniecan]

@treefrog I think I am the least efficient sewist out there so I should probably focus on reusing patterns more.

@Karamiel I love your new dress! It is gorgeous! What a great job and great fabric. The ties add a really nice touch, too. Enjoy wearing it.

I cut out a shirt today but realized the fabric I am using is a little bit lightweight (more so than I thought). I should have continued with the waistcoat toile - tomorrow! I wish I were less of a meanderer...

[sharonspils]

@CCL your red coat is beautiful and so glad you worked on those buttonholes and now can wear it with pride.

@Karamiel your new dress looks fresh and lovely for the warmer weather.

I plan to cut out a top today that will be the base of my Alabama Chanin top.  The knit is a cotton knit and is a bit heavier than I normally use so hope the wearable toile of a sand singlet top works.  It might end up being a t-shirt as it might be a bit warm to wear in summer.

[Sew Ruthie Sews]

I have been slowly sewing. So far I've made some lined trousers and am part way through the matching lined jacket. I think a blouse of some sort would make a nice outfit, or maybe I do my sweatshirt next instead.

How are you all getting on?

[stephaniecan]

Wow, that's (unsurprising) great progress, @Sew Ruthie Sews I am inspired to hear about the jacket work. I think that's my next object after I made a waistcoat and shirt (in the toile and construction process - posted on my thread... I just need to find some brocade!).

[kowgiirl.up]

@treefrog , I know about getting dragged into helping. Just last week I was pulled away from sewing to help remove a car transmission (DH's race car) then two days later out to cut firewood. Talk about rudeness!! On the other side of that he did fold laundry, made the bed and fixed my wooden spoons so they are more usable. I guess it's give and take at times.

@Karamiel that dress looks so much different than the line drawing. You sure know how to bring it to life.

@CCL , that coat!!! WOWZER's. Keep a close eye on it because I just might come borrow it along with that super cool hat. Well done and brovo 

@Grasshopper , I hope you get back in to the sewing room soon and get some "you" time.

@Sew Ruthie Sews , you are making progress~ slow and steady wins the race they say.

@sharonspils , good luck on your knit top. I hope it works out with your plan.

I've been pecking away myself. So far, I've made 2 tops (really 3) that I plan on using in my SWAP all of which are knit. I have pictures that I have been too lazy to post but I will soon.
I've been working on taping together and tracing out a Milo cardigan that I hope to swap out for something in my SWAP. I had to order knit interfacing but I think I can get most of the fabric cut out before being forced to move on to something else while waiting for it to arrive. The cardigan has 5 buttonholes that I'm a little nervous about. I have plenty of scrap laying around to practice on before moving forward with them or I might end up doing a lot of unpicking like CCL did with her red coat.

I have to add that taping a PDF pattern together is not my favorite thing. I think I would rather scrub the toilet bowl......

[Turquoise]

I have to add that taping a PDF pattern together is not my favorite thing. I think I would rather scrub the toilet bowl......

Wow, you REALLY don't like doing it - I usually have a good audiobook or podcast going when I tape PDF patterns to help with the boredom 

[sharonspils]

@kowgiirl.up the top is getting there, just need to add a bit more the the hips and surprisingly I have an old RTW knit top that has the right amount so off to check the measurements.  I agree with the PDF pattern taping thankfully I have a great Officeworks nearby that prints A0 which is a godsend.

I also had cut out my shorts and whilst at it cut out another skirt which fits nicely into the odd pieces that were left over, it is V1247 and has some great pieces to do this sort of cutting.  Tried to find a zip to go with both the shorts and pants yesterday but Spotlight (Joanns similar) is so low of stock it is frustrating.  The shorts can get away with a close by not good zip but the skirt has a centre back invisible zipper, need to check my zipper pulls to see if any of them work.

@Sew Ruthie Sews lined trousers and a jacket in progress, look forward to seeing them.

@indigotiger isn't it frustrating when you realise you forgot to take notes, however I am sure you will figure it out, hopefully you had drafted the pattern pieces for the weather shield.

[warpjr1965]

Zero sewing. I keep going into the sewing room and coming back out again. I don't really need anything, so the burning desire to sew is not there. Also, the pattern for DH's shirt keeps taunting me...

[stephaniecan]

That's too bad @warpjr1965: I get it. I've had those feelings lately too, but when I sew something for fun I do feel better.

@CCL Just saw your completed coat. Looks GREAT! I love the fit overall. Nice job.

[kowgiirl.up]

@Turquoise , turning lemons into lemonaide!. Good luck with jersey shopping.

@warpjr1965 , I hope you can bust out of that revolving sewing door and find something that you need to sew. Like @stephaniecan , it sure helps me.

[warpjr1965]

thanks gals. I'll find something, I think there is just too much going on at home right now. I'll get back to it.

[kowgiirl.up]

@Turquoise , where did you get the jersey for your summer top with the fluttering sleeves? Both tops are very cute and I really like the neckline.

Also, you mentioned that you weren't sure how you felt about the binding for the second top. You said you might just serge, fold over and topstitch future one(s). I hadn't thought about using that technique.  I'm learning so much with this SWAP. Pretty coolio:)