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April 03, 2020, 04:40:28 pm

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CCL's Sew-Along SWAP - Fabric wants to be sewn and seen.

Started by CCL, December 17, 2019, 01:42:31 pm

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CCL

Whoo boy!  I have been doodling with ideas ever since IndigoTiger announced the rules.  As usual, I have no plans to complete by the deadline, but wanted to use SWAP as I have in the past to organize future slow sewing plans into a coordinated whole.

Been musing about a number of items I want to sew, have the fabric for, but are a bit daunting for me. However, I have two garments  I can use to get me started - the previously sewn garment could be my Vogue 7975 jacket I finished up in November and the garment sewn after the rules have been published could be the dress I just completed yesterday.  Here they are shown together.


Vogue 7975 jacket with welt pockets added over a Style Arc Alexi mashup with OOP Vogue 6315 dress

I have wool for a coat, jackets and dresses - patterns in mind for most.  I would need to muslin the Pendleton 49'er, especially because I want to adapt the pattern to replicate more truly my Gram's vintage jacket.  I would also need to muslin the coat.  I have made most of the other patterns at least once.

I have wanted to make a red wool walking coat for a couple of years.  I have the fabric - in fact, I have enough fabric to make a full long coat - a fact which has had me hesitating over what direction to go and which pattern to use.   Ideally, this would be the garment that would go with everything else.  However, some of the fabric colors are not really complementary.  I will post fabrics later.

Currently, my idea is:

Coat
  • One red coat.  This could be my "go with everything" garment.  Looking at Lisette B6385 if I want to do the walking coat (if heart wins out over practicality, I may go with V1669 which I don't own, or V1649 which I did buy and would probably prefer without the contrasting band).  If using the coat as my go with everything doesn't work out, I can use my two grey dresses.
Dresses
  • Two grey dresses, the turtle neck wool jersey above and a grey basketweave crepe wool boatneck dress - mashed up from a couple of OOP patterns.
  • One red, grey and black jersey dress - similar to the turtle neck dress but another boatneck -like the one I did for the 2018 SWAP.  I will only use this one if the red coat can work with the rest of the items.  Otherwise, I will scrape this and use the two grey dresses as my "go with everything" garments.

Jackets
  • One Plaid Jacket - previous sew Vogue 7975
  • Two Pendleton 49'ers - one in a maroon cashmere with a faint black plaid stripe, one in a solid green wool crepe
  • One boucle -blue,maroon,and green - in the Vogue 7975 - perhaps the button front and longer length
  • One white corduroy jacket - Bootstrap 4167 military style
  • One moleskin polartech Lekala 4398 zippered front jacket.
  • One pink cotton basketweave jacket - Oscar de la Renta Vogue OOP 2655- currently, this item is the outlier as it doesn't really coordinate with the red coat and it's not wool

Oddball garments to swap out (assuming red coat is the ubiquitous item -and I get jacket-overload)
  • One plaid skirt Anna Klein, OOP V2433 - but that may change
  • One wool jersey boatneck top Lekala 5645 boatneck top 

Originally I was thinking I could make a silk cami that would function as a top with the skirt and jackets and as an undergarment for the dresses.  May still do that, but I am trying to avoid making anything just for the sake of the SWAP, wanting instead to focus on things I have wanted to sew up for quite a while.  Given that - the white corduroy jacket may also become another skirt.

For my new thing - either hand buttonholes on the coat, sewing with silk charmeuse for the camisole, or some techniques involved with embellishments on the various jackets.

So that's the planning and where I am stuck  to date.  I know the pink jacket is really a one-off.  The corduroy and the pink basketweave are the only cottons.  And by the time I finish, it will probably be summer of 2021 and none of these garments will be wearable in the heat.

But at least I have a starting plan and I can get off my duff and start sewing, but I need to get BH's vest done first.

Edited to Add:  Inspiration is still Ruthie's "It's only fabric" to which I have added, "but it wants to be Sewn and Seen."

CCL

I started cutting out the muslin for my coat.  Or at least one of the patterns I am considering, the practical walker length Lissette.

When the lining fabric for BH's vest arrives, I will go back to working on that. I find it difficult to mentally juggle more than one sewing project at a time.  So I will see how this goes.  At least on BH's vest, most of the fiddly parts are done.  And I know that I probably won't get this coat done in time to wear this winter.  That's okay too. But IndigoTiger's rules are a great incentive to start moving on some pieces I have wanted to make for a long time.

I cut the muslin at least one size larger than I usually make and I decided to sew it straight without doing my usual fitting adjustments first and just start from scratch fitting the muslin itself. 

Along the way I will try doing some hand buttonholes for practice in the vain hope that I can build up enough skill to do them on the coat - if not, machine button holes I guess.


CCL

Finished BH's vest last month and have been working on the red coat in bits and pieces.  After testing out and liking the muslin of the Lissette cut a couple sizes larger, I decided to go for it with the Lissette pattern and cut out the wool.

I have been plugging along until yesterday when I realized that the way I want to do the shoulder pads isn't compatible with the construction sequence and techniques in the instructions.  I usually use pattern instructions as merely guides, but in this case decided to go ahead and attach the facings to the lining  by machine as instructed.  I didn't attach sleeve lining to the rest of the coat lining because I want to to attach them by hand so I can put the shoulder pads between the lining and coat.  (The instructions have one cover the shoulder pads and place them on top on the lining...so they show on the inside.)

I am having a rethink before I sew the front/back facings with the lining attached to the coat proper.   I may instead run a stitching line around the neck edge to attach the collar...then work out the shoulder pads, and then attach the facings/lining. 

I also didn't do the sleeve hems before I inserted them.  Not sure why as I usually do, except that since I cut a larger size, I wanted to hem after the sleeves we're inserted so I could doublecheck length.

Phew.  Typing this out helped me think through my dilemma!

CCL

Slowly mucking about with the coat - have made several mistakes... not sure how recoverable.  I have learned that I do not like the instructions for attaching the lining - at all!  Unfortunately was too far down the path to swap out approaches.  I like the pattern so far, but I think if I ever make it again, I will attach the lining by hand and only after all the facings and such are sewn to the coat proper.  Not liking this sequence at all, PFFFFTH!

Album of progress to date here.

CCL

Turtle sewing.

Finished the red coat - up to the button holes and buttons. I ordered a couple different types of buttons and if they don't work, will do covered buttons.

Busy week coming up, but I hope to get the red, grey, black, and pink jersey fabric cut out.  I plan on using another mash-up of several patterns. 

CCL

The coat is finished except for buttons and button holes.  Trying to decide which buttons (if any) to use.
Close up of the button from button boutique.

B6385 button test



B6385 Coat without buttons

B6385 Trying out the buttons from Britex

B6385 Trying out the buttons

CCL

I am letting the decision "to button or not to button" marinate on the coat.  I find I am wearing the coat anyway without the buttonholes, so I am just going to take my time.  I did take a page from Morzel's post and went ahead and catch-stitched the facing to the front along the pocket seamline all the way to the hem in the hopes of anchoring the front a bit.

So it's on to cutting out the striped jersey dress. Fabric:

Sawyer Brook jersey

I am going with this dress idea from my 2018 SWAP sewing - basically a mashup up of Style Arc Alexi -extended to dress length with flare - with the neckline from OOP V8615:

SWAP Dress Print 1 Front -

Hopefully it will work in the stripe.  I barely have enough fabric - and matching the stripes on the sleeves will be a real challenge.

CCL

My sewing has been at a v- e- r- y slow pace, but I did get my simple jersey dress made.

Apologies for the dusty mirror pictures:

dress without tie

dress with tie[/td

Here it with the coat (that fuzzy white thing on the collar is my cat's fur).


coat over dress

coat-over dress- lining

Have yet another idea for the coat closures - BH came up with the idea of doing the loop side of a frog on the inside of the top front center (under the covered button) and the knot side on the bottom front -- so when the coat is open - the half frog shows, but doesn't look tacky (he thinks snaps look tacky).

I am still contemplating button options - want to make up a set of covered buttons and see if I like those.