• Welcome to Stitcher's Guild Reloaded. Please login or sign up.
October 23, 2020, 04:04:14 pm


To reply to a private message, you must login to the forums and use the messaging system.  If you attempt to answer the email notification, it just bounces to me.

Noum's Vertical Variations

Started by Noum, November 21, 2019, 07:31:51 pm

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


Well the rules are fun, and after a long sewing hiatus I'm back at the sewing machine stronger than ever. So while my theme/plan is just in the early stages, I know that I want to explore having more verticality in my outfits. I've been on the Kibbe Facebook groups, and all I can say for sure at the moment is that I need a strong vertical element in my outfits for best effect, which is not necessarily something I was thinking about much before. As I'm a pretty casual person, Kibbe's approach of always going for full Head to Toe outfits that are very specific to a situation is rather new to me. To be honest it seems like a lot of work at times, but I figured a SWAP was a perfect opportunity to explore this approach. So I aim to create 3-4 outfits for specific situations (which I will describe in detail when I get there), in which I hope to explore different ways to create a strong vertical line effect.

At the moment I can see myself using color, seaming, and various other things to create a vertical line, as well as using long layers/coats, which would be a new style for me. Actually, I made my first knee length cardigan about a month ago, and quickly realized I have no coats whatsoever that are long enough to cover any long layer I might make... Since our 6 month-long winter is just starting, Ièd better change that! So I will make at least one coat (first time tackling such a thing!), which would be my "go with every piece" item, and if all goes well, I will make a second one. I'm very happy that CCL is running the coat/jacket challenge right now, it truly is a perfect timing! I traced and cut my pattern earlier today, now on to the muslin!

I am not sure yet what kind of palette I will end up using. I have my first real vacation in many years coming up, and will go to Ecuador for almost a month, leaving on Dec. 25th. So right now I'm more focused on sewing for that, and hopefully the items I make for that trip can become a way to fine tune patterns for the SWAP. But I'm pretty sure I will want my SWAP palette to be very cohesive, and I will probably come up with one or two inspiration images to use that I will post up here later.

I did complete (a week late but whatever) the only SWAP I participated in, and my skillset and sewing machine stable has greatly expanded since that time, so I feel a lot more confident about this process than I did the first time. It should be easier to put my ideas into practice, and I know I will again learn a lot!


I have not been very active here, but things are happening in my sewing room. I still probably spend too much time thinking about styles and possibilities, too much money buying fabric, and not enough time sewing. Still, I have a pretty well fitting slim straight leg stretch jeans pattern after 3 muslins. I'm using the Jalie Eleonore pattern, but I think I might add a proper waistband to this to get a more stable fit throughout the day, while using the leg fit I got via my muslins. I will try the Greenstyle Creations Taylor shorts pattern for the waistband.

I made a maxi length cocoon cardigan which I really love. I'm not planning to make a maxi length coat, so it probably wouldn't work as part of this capsule if my go-with-everything item is a knee length coat, but I will make the same pattern in the knee length version next, and that should be part of the capsule. The way this cardigan falls really creates a strong vertical line, so I think that shape fits in perfectly in my theme.

I don't know about you, but whenever I buy new yardage of fabric I like to drape it on myself once I get home. My favorite way to drape is often like a full length maxi dress with a more fitted narrow skirt and a slightly blousy effect in the bodice. Which is a very evening wear look. I always feel like I look great in that, but have never sewn anything like that because in my real life I have no occasions to wear something like this. Or so I've always told myself. So one of my goals is to create a variation on this that I feel like I could wear in my everyday life. A jumpsuit is probably the best way to make this work for my, so I'm trying to see if I can mesh a well fitting wide leg pant pattern I made up recently to a simple slightly blousy top. Hopefull that will work.


I mentionned in my original plan that I was going to try using David Kibbe's approach to creating Head to Toe outfits, which includes making outfits that are very specific to a situation. thinking about the details of the situation is supposed to help you create a much better HTT effect. I think 3-4 situations should get me to the required number of garments. This may not be the final lineup, but for now the situations that I would like to cover are the following:

1) Going to the gym/working out: I gained a lot of weight quickly when I went through several difficulties in the last couple of years. I am feeling better now but my body has changed in ways which I hope are not permanent. Because I am much more self conscious of my shape than before, I feel like having an outfit/outfit formula that makes me feel good would probably help making more motivated to do the actual work that is needed to regain my former level of fitness.I need to do some weight training and cycling to rehabilitate my right knee, which has had 4 ligaments replaced and really doesn't function the way it used to. I want to use bright upbeat colors so that I feel happier and more enthusiastic. Because of the self conscious thing I probably will use a looser fitting layer on top of leggings and a fitted top. I want to use the same fabric for the leggings and fitted top, and possibly use a subtle colorblocking. I want the looser layer to pick up the colors of the leggings/top fabric, which has a geometric patterns that includes pink, blue, violet, sage green and pale chartreuse yellow. I am thinking the color repetition/continuity will be the main thing that creates a vertical effect here.

2) Work: I work from home as a massage therapist, posture analyst and movement coach. The room is always kept fairly warm because my clients don't have tons of clothes on, but the rest of my living space is cooler. I need an outfit that allows maximum mobility, modesty, yet allows clients to see my own movements clearly if I model something that I want them to be able to do accurately afterwards. To be honest an outfit that I would wear to the gym could probably be used for work, but I tend to favor slim legs pants in stretch fabrics and short/cap sleeve blouses that are a bit loose. Or sometimes leggings with a longer tunic. I cannot have sleeves that are longer than elbow length for practical reason, but I need a warmer long sleeve layer that I can throw on when I leave the room. I would like to use the Jalie Eleonore jeans pattern in light grey stretch denim, and a fairly light pink or peach top with cap sleeves, and the Pattern Emporium My Embrace cardi as a warm layer. This last pattern I just muslined in maxi length, but I will probably use knee length for this. Here the fabrics will be different colors but a similar level of intensity, and I am hoping to find a top pattern that has a strong vertical element in the design itself. Maybe via an asymmetrical detail, the length, or something. I haven't quite figured that one out. The coccon cardigan creates a strong vertical as soon as I put it on, but I would like the verticality to be present when I don't wear the cardigan as well.

3) Semi-casual get together with friends: Here I want something that gives me an opportunity to dress up a bit more, but since my life and friends are pretty casual, it will not be super fancy. If I can get my act together and figure out a nice jumpsuit for myself, that would be an absolute win, as I feel that ultimately if I master the jumpsuit, I would probably start wearing for work all the time and feel fabulous way more often. Well, in theory they would make me feel fabulous if they are well fitted and done in beautiful fabrics... I have a magnificent border print I would love to use for this. It's a kind of athletic knit that is a nice cool beige with giant navy and charcoal flowers on one side, and feels fancy even though it is an activwear fabric. Because I like the idea of maxi dresses, I think I would go for a wide leg maxi, to give me maximum long dress feeling, but with the complete freedom of pants. Probably sleeveless or with a cut on sleeve. If the jumpsuit doesn't quite work, or maybe in addition to it, some kind of midi or maxi dress with a very fluid feeling would be nice. Something that doesn't restrict movement, free and sexy in an understated way. I need another cardi to go over this for sure, again probably fairly long and fluid.

4) is not a situation but a circumstance that requires my goes-with-everything piece: rainy, cold or windy weather! Should I need to walk outside in any of these outfits when the weather is less pleasant, I need a coat that will go nicely over any of the previous outfits. I already bought the fabric for this, an amazing technical shell fabric that drapes well, is waterproof  but highly breathable, has a wonderful texture on the right side, and is a versatile silver/beige color. I am also terrified to ruin this fabric, and while I started a muslin for a coat in December, I haven't touched it since. I need to do a muslin in a thicker fabric actually, my first one was from old sheets and really doesn't give me a good sense of how it fits over other clothing. I'm mostly considering two Silhouette patterns for this, either the Trench Coat, or Meghan's coat.


I am a fan of vertical designs, also!  I am 5'1" and going down.  I also have found that BIAS placement of fabric is VERY sliming AND unusual!  Sometimes I make the front on the bias and the back vertical.


These are the fabrics I think I will use for the gym outfit. It's a bit dark here, so the photo shows them a bit darker and more yellow than IRL.


This is the maxi cardigan in a stretch crush velvet, worn with my Jalie Eleonore jeans and a purchased top that I eventually intend to copy. I am definitely making more of this pattern, and will try a knee length version next, as this one is too long to fit under a coat. I do plan to make a coat for the SWAP, but it's unlikely to be long enough to cover this.