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The Pendleton '49er Jacket - Notes on my Gram's vintage garment

Started by CCL, November 14, 2019, 02:55:44 pm

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CCL

I quickly pressed up my Gram's Pendleton 49'er jacket and noticed a few more variations from the 70th anniversary pattern I recently purchased from Pendleton.  I thought I would share these notes in a separate topic and then follow up with some photos to help illustrate for my Stitcher's Guild friends who are also making the jacket.  It's too cloudy today to get photos, so I will do that probably over the weekend.

Here are my notes for a start.

  • As I mentioned earlier in the other threads, Gram's has shoulder pads - covered in the same fabric as the jacket.  I would guess that they were 1/2 to 3/4 inch shoulder pads.
  • The shoulder pleat is edge stitched - but I noted the pattern has it marked that way, even though I can't remember if the pattern instructions include that step.
  • The collar piece is different from the pattern.  A photo will show this better, but Gram's collar curves in then out in the center back. This makes it fold and look beautiful at the center back above the yoke - looks straight, but actually isn't.
  • the plaid matching on the collar happens across the back, so that the back is all matched up, but the front of the collar ends are not and do not sync with the jacket fronts.
  • However, the plaid matching across the front, back and sleeves is spot on.
  • I think, but am not sure until I measure, that the front pieces curve out more on Gram's for the front lapels than the pattern piece does.
  • Both the pattern and Gram's sleeves end in three pleats at the cuff, but Gram's also has some slight gathers as well.

Until I sleuth more, everything else seems the same.

VWG - the pockets (that fold over) are the same as Gram's.  The seam finishes are as I mentioned, folded over and stitched.  The side seams are flat felled as are the sleeves, but I can tell that they were done separately as the seams don't match up at the underarm.

My plan is to trace the pattern and then make adjustments as needed to match Gram's coat.  Gram was a bit bigger than I am, and I always loved the way the jacket fit on me, so I may do a muslin in whatever size approximates her jacket.

Photos of these notes to come, I promise!

CCL

Here are some photos - not sure how many to include here, but there are 8 in an album on flicker.  Here's that link Flicker album- Gram's Vintage Pendleton 49'er jacket.   If you all would like me to post the other 3 photos here (shoulder pad, seam finishes etc. and also I can take photos of the cuffs, sleeve pleats, closure and gathers, if you would like).

Front and back - pardon the moth holes.  Note that the collar points aren't matched and don't line up against the front - but the plaid matching across the sleeves, front and back is spot on:

Vintage Pendleton 49'er front

Vintage Pendleton 49'er back

Closeup of the lapel and shoulder pleat:

Vintage Pendleton 49'er lapel

Vintage Pendeleton 49'er edge stitched shoulder pleat

And one more of the collar with its curved center back.

Vintage Pendleton 49'er collar

Turquoise

That collar is really interesting, thank you for photographing the shape - I kind of understood your description but the photos make it so much clearer.

VWG

CCL!  Oooh. Love the details!
The embedded curve on the "leaf edge" of the collar allows it to stand tall and wrap the neck at CB, then glide over the shoulder curve to spread in the front collar opening while still hugging the neck at the shoulder seam.  If that leaf edge was wide and straight (like at the CB), the leaf edge would stand on the shoulder, pull the collar away from the neck and distort the collar spread so it doesn't lay flat.

Another great design detail: The edge stitched shoulder flange/pleat controls the fabric through the shoulder curve then releases it to create room for the bust.

Thank you for taking the time to document Gram's swoon worthy details!

CCL

Thanks,VWG, I didn't know that's what the curve accomplishes! Such great information.  I am thinking I want to add the curve now to other collar patterns.  I seem to remember some of the vintage patterns I have used in the past including it. 

We've been sick with whatever virus is going around, but I have managed to compare the collar on Gram's jacket to the pattern piece and start to get a workable collar pattern (at least to try on the muslin).

In case anyone else finds it interesting, here are two photos that hopefully show the comparison.

In the photo below I pinned the neck edge (accounting for the 5/8" seam allowance built into the pattern) of collar piece to the neck edge of Gram's jacket. Notice that the collar points of Gram's are quite a bit more exaggerated than the pattern piece from Pendleton.


49'er collar pattern piece tracing adjustments to match vintage jacket

I then traced Gram's collar (without seam allowances) to make a new pattern - roughly a medium.    The photo below is the traced pattern piece over the traced pattern piece of the Pendleton 70th anniversary pattern.


Vintage traced collar piece overlaid on 70th anniversary pattern piece

It will be a while before I get back to this as I have a vest to make for BH, but I am trying to keep going on it in spare moments.

Lisanne

That collar curve is fascinating, thanks for the information.  Well worth carrying over.
The extended collar points are more 'of their time' and a style element without function that many people might not choose to have these days.
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - comments on wardrobes, patterns, style, fit
https://uk.pinterest.com/sewingplums/ - style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - good basic sewing techniques
https://easyjackets.wordpress.com - no need for tailoring, unless you want to
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - Peggy Sagers sew-alongs