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Sarah's solids, florals and stripes SWAP (comments in main thread please)

Started by kushami, November 03, 2019, 09:09:53 pm

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Just starting this as a placeholder. I would like to make a selection of basics as follows:

* simple long-sleeve knit tops with set-in sleeves
* simple woven tops, sleeveless and 3/4 sleeve, e.g. New Look 6434
* knit pencil skirts with elastic waist and back darts
* apron dress (pre-SWAP item)

I have a purchased knit dress that I need to alter to fit my pear shape, so this could be my purchased item. And I might knit a top or cardigan.

I might also copy the purchased knit dress.

In terms of fabric and colours, the rather vague theme would be solids (linen), stripes (cotton knit) and blowsy floral prints (knit, rayon or cotton). Plus maybe some check shirting and a bit of denim.

Colours would be dark blue, black & white or navy & white stripes, and some bright colours in the florals (mint, pink, mustard).

I also need summer PJs and a robe, so maybe those can be included somehow. Need to think more on that.
Sarah from Australia


Some of the patterns I am considering:

BurdaStyle 02/2019 #118 - probably do a slightly more fitted version than shown on model, possibly with a bust dart added

New Look 6434 - either sleeveless or with 3/4 length plain sleeves (my own modification).

BurdaStyle Midi Skirt 05/2018 #104

Simplicity 8958 Misses' Wrap Skirts - View C

New Look 6311

Sarah from Australia


Realised these wouldn't fit with SWAP so will make separately. Have posted a thread in "Individual projects".

For the PJs and robe:

Simplicity 8803 Misses' and Girls' Pajamas

Simple shawl-collar robe (haven't chosen pattern yet)

Or maybe Suki Kimono

Sarah from Australia


Pre-SWAP item

Please find my project notes on Textillia if you are interested. (You need to create a free login.)

Apron Dress

Here's a link to the pattern I used on the Vintage Patterns Wikia:
McCall's Butcher Apron

I started making this some time ago. I did a rather rough muslin, fitted the dress, and did not notice the incorrect dart. When I came to sew the fashion fabric, I ran into problems because the dart on the pattern isn't trued. Argh.

I have fixed my traced copy of the pattern but am yet to sew the dress that was cut wrongly. I am going to have another try at it soon, obviously!
Sarah from Australia


Fabric ideas
Sarah from Australia


Edited because I found a better example top.

I would like the simple woven tops to end up looking something like this:

Toast top

Just a bit less a-line.
Sarah from Australia


My plan for the knit pencil skirts is to cut two rectangles, with the back piece wider to accommodate my large derriere and slightly taller to allow for back darts. I will baste the side seams, then pin the back darts, and maybe peg the hem. And finish with an elastic waist. (Sounds easy but I am sure I will manage to create dramas!)

Something like this tutorial, but WITH STRIPE MATCHING.

Made Everyday tutorial video

I was so frustrated that the video didn't mention anything about stripe matching, and that the finished skirt has unmatching side seams. I know the tutorial is aimed at beginners, but I think the small extra effort would be worth it.

I might leave a side-seam split on one side for walking ease and a slightly different look. (And to avoid having to have a centre-back seam!)
Sarah from Australia


I would also like a couple of bias-cut skirts, very simple, to wear on their own or as slips or underskirts.

New Look 6623 Misses' Bias-cut Skirt - has elasticised waist

McCall's 7931 Misses' Bias-cut Skirts - has facing and zipper

Strangely, neither of these has any indication given that they are bias cut. (Of course you can see it once you are looking at the modelled photos, but if you are searching - no dice.) I only found out about them through a review and a blog article. Thank you to the helpful person, whose name I have forgotten, who took the time to write about the skirts.

Edited to add: Found the review again. It is a blog article by Lauren Dahl. Thanks, Lauren!
Snakeskin-print Skirt
Sarah from Australia


4 November summary

Lots of ideas. I need to be practical and allow for fitting time. I have fitted the apron dress and the simple woven top sans sleeves. I have not done anything on the knit top (not even chosen a pattern). The skirts, PJs and robe are all from scratch too.

I think the plus with this SWAP is that I can make multiples of one item (I think?). I haven't looked at the rules closely in regards to my ideas yet, so don't worry if they don't match yet!

Will while away a pleasant hour reading everyone else's plans now.

Sarah from Australia


This is the purchased dress that I plan to include. It fits me pretty well in the top half but is too small in the bottom (I am a pronounced pear). It is black and white. I plan to cut off the top and somehow add a skirt that fits.

I will try to make the cut-off part into a pull-on skirt to give away to a smaller person or the op shop.
Sarah from Australia


One more potential skirt to include: a woven pencil skirt with plenty of fitting opportunities.

I don't think it is lined, so drafting a lining could be the "new technique". I also haven't sewn a vent before.

(Ordered from ebay. Should arrive this week.)
Sarah from Australia


If fitting the pencil skirt is too much for me, I can fall back on the a-line skirt.

I've made this one before. I have a sort of love/hate relationship with it. It is quite nicely sewn, and the Amy Butler fabric is good quality, but it does not fit at all in the back, esoecially since I put on weight since being ill. I wear it in a sort of angry way in hot weather because I don't have anything else.

If I make it again, I will use a larger size for the back and pin in darts.
Sarah from Australia


Thinking about the rules
If most of my items are going to be skirts and tops, then I'll need to think jacket or cardigan as my "can be worn with everything else" items.

For the full skirts, a short jacket would be better, e.g. one of the shorter views of McCall's 6531 (OP). For the pencil skirt, a long jacket would work, e.g. the longer view of Simplicity 8554.
Sarah from Australia


Summary of the rules for my reference

SWAP sewing will begin December 26, 2019, and all garments must be finished by April 30, 2020. Pattern fitting and cutting may be done whenever you're ready.

You need to make: 11 pieces, in two groups

Group One: 9 or 10 pieces that may be worn together, but don't have to be

Group Two: 1 or 2 pieces that MUST be able to be worn with all of the items in Group One, but not necessarily each other (1 if you make 10 other pieces, 2 if you make 9)

You may include 1 knitted, crocheted, or handwoven garment in the 11 pieces.

You may include 1 garment sewn prior to the rules announcement and 1 purchased garment, OR 2 garments sewn prior to the rules announcement.

You may also include 1 garment that is sewn after the rules have been posted but before the official "start sewing" date of December 26.

You must choose a theme for your collection to act as a focal point.

You must use a new-to-you technique that stretches your skills.

9 knit tops + 1 skirt + 1 pants
5 tops/shirts + 2 pants + 2 skirts + 1 jacket + 1 cardigan
6 tops/tee + 2 pants + 1 dress + 1 jean jacket + 1 hoodie
9 dresses + 1 jacket + 1 cardigan
5 tops + 2 tunics + 3 pants + 1 vest
4 tops/shirts + 3 pinafores + 2 leggings + 1 vest + 1 cardigan
Sarah from Australia


I am also pondering a denim skirt (non-stretch). I bought some denim and notions to make my dad a pair of jeans, but then I found and mended three pairs of his jeans that were in the mending pile, so he is oversupplied!

I have a few lengths of denim that I bought from Tessuti Fabrics a while ago because it seemed like a good idea. I also have a length of brown denim from the House of Cloth in Bendigo, although I'm not sure where it is.

Merchant & Mills Clementine
Pros: Like the look; designed for non-stretch denim
Cons: Only 1.5cm seams allowances; few reviews; no rivets specified

Cashmerette Ellis Skirt
Pros: Like the look; has pear sizing option; interesting pocket topstitching option
Cons: No rivets specified; designed for stretch wovens

Style Arc has a couple of nice options too, but the sizing array doesn't work for me: I am an extreme pear and I might have to grade between three or four sizes.

Edited to add: @Turquoise suggested another nice denim skirt option.

Actually, I could really use some jeans, but my health problems and weight gain have separately caused fitting challenges that are insurmountable for now. I have an old pair with great fit, Levi's Curve ID I think they are called, and I'd love to copy them when my health improves. Who knows!
Sarah from Australia


My new technique will be "sewing a garment out of knit fabric". Also perhaps "tracing a Burda magazine pattern".

I'd also like to do some hand embroidery on one of the woven tops, but I am not sure whether I will have time, seeing as I have to learn to embroider!
Sarah from Australia


I just noticed that two patterns that I would like to try and are relevant to my SWAP are now available as PDFs:

Pamela's Favorite Bias Skirt

The Magic Pencil Skirt
Sarah from Australia