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Indigotiger's Misty Morning SWAP (comments in discussion thread please)

Started by indigotiger, October 30, 2019, 05:31:57 pm

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indigotiger

I seem to be currently craving grey in my wardrobe, so am going to focus my SWAP efforts in that direction, probably accented with the darker colors from my palette. I've been poking about on the resource shelves seeing what I have that can work. There's a bit of black/grey tiny gingham flannel which will make a nice shirt, a conversational print of brown and white ponies on pale blue that will make a playful blouse, some medium heavy grey linen for a new pinafore, and some grey wool herringbone earmarked for a gollar/capelet. I've ordered some heavier dark grey canvas to make a chore coat.
I will probably use this years new black/grey/blue stripey dress as my "sewn previous to SWAP" garment, and if my current experimental collaged cardigan I'm working on turns out wearable, that will also be included. There are a number of possiblities in the made before the rules section. For made after the rules, but before 26 December, I will probably make the gollar (I made one for my friend Maeva, when I made her a set of 16th century German clothing for a special event she was attending.) The gollar seems like an incredibly practical garment to wear around my chilly house this winter!

I don't have a specific image for inspiration, but rather have been using this Steeleye Span song (which I first heard them play live when they toured the USA back in the early 70's):
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

A bit more thinking about interpreting my theme: The most obvious choices are colors - mostly grey foggy misty colors, maybe with some dark blue for just before sunrise, and maybe some light blue as the sun could be peeping through the mist... . Since my original impetus for this theme was the desire for a grey pinafore, this will help fill out that section of my wardrobe. I've had several grey pinafores over the years, and they always wear out, as they are always a favorite.

possible motifs to be used: clouds first come to mind; perhaps a knit top embellished with a cloud collar design, or maybe block printed clouds as an edging... maybe floral/foliage motifs "a-sitting in the bower", maybe some horses for the "ride on Roan and Dobbin to celebrate the day"

overall feel: rustic rather than polished, country rather than city; some wool, maybe even some leather as trimming?

The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

Ginger-sews

Sounds interesting... can't wait to see how this evolves!
Ginger
Ginger

sewist, artist, quilter, musician, computer programmer, girlfriend, Grandfriend to one sweet baby, mom, gym rat

indigotiger

SWAP plans are solidifying for what garments will work together well and I'm getting a clearer idea of what I hope to make (always subject to change...) My two garments that will be wearable with each outfit will be a grey chore coat and a grey wool herringbone capelet.

I'm going to make a grey linen pinafore, and my other pinafore will be my "already made" black corduroy pinafore. My other "already made" garment will be my stripey black/grey/blue everyday dress.

I'll make two more dresses, one in a black/cream mini-stripe, and one in a black/white chambray. (Both will be overdyed, one in grey and one in brown). All three of the dresses can be worn with either of the pinafores.

In addition, a shirt from grey/black gingham flannel, a scrappy/collaged grey knit top with cloud collar embellishment, and a light blue print with horses in cream/brown will get turned into a blouse. All the tops can be worn with either of the pinafores. The last of the eleven is waiting on further inspiration/clarity... could be grey knit top (not sure about that one, as my drawer for knit tops is getting pretty full!), or grey leggings, or a grey Polartech pullover, or even a pair of grey denim overalls if I feel adventurous in both senses of the word. (I've not made overalls in at least ten years, and my prior pair is long worn out...)
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

Now that my scrappy collage cardigan has been completed, I've been working on the long sleeve knit top to go with it. The cardigan won't be part of SWAP, but the knit top will coordinate with all my other planned sewing. The "cloud collar" embellishment is being done in the Alabama Chanin hand stitched reverse applique technique.
It took a bit of time cogitating on the best way to end up with an easy to see stitchable motif from the scrap of black interlock... I finally realised that a sort of "reverse stencil" that reserved the black lines, but painted the background would work. Freezer paper stenciling gives a very crisp result, and by folding the freezer paper in half before cutting out the design, a perfectly symmetrical stencil is created.

The cut freezer paper is ironed to the fabric, and the background is painted with some pewter fabric paint, (which will mostly all be cut away in the end, though perhaps just a bit of the sparkle will show along the cut edges)

The painted interlock is basted to a scrap of the lighter black/cream marled hemp knit fabric, and then lots of overcast stitching along the motif lines is the next step. This phase took about five hours of spare time on transit and waiting for appointments. In the photo, the right half shows the painted layer cut away where the stitching is completed, and the left side is still to be completed.

This shows most of the completed effect, as I added some striped knit strips as outlining the cloud motif, and then stitched the collar to the body. This has four different fabric scraps, the completed knit top will have six, as there is also the floral front/back fabric, and the additional stripey ribbing that will bind the neckline and cuff edges
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

my long sleeve knit top is completed. I wanted to continue using up the leftover scraps from various other knit top projects. This top used grey cotton floral jersey, grey/white marled hemp, black/cream marled hemp, black/cream striped cotton rib, blue/grey striped hemp, and black cotton/lycra jersey.
I used some of my favorite Alabama Chanin style techniques of hand stitching, and reverse applique. One difficulty I had was that there wasn't quite enough of the grey floral cotton to cut out the whole of the front and back pieces, so I had to add extra piecing to the sides of the pattern pieces (which isn't really visible when I wear it) and do some rather tricksy sorting out around the neckline in how I overlapped the pieces. Normally I would cut out the whole front pieces, and then stitch on any decorative bits, and only then cut away any excess layers... in this case, I had to use the pattern pieces as a template to line up the collar layers atop the partial front panels, which was annoying, but the results were worth it.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

today I started cutting out my horses fabric...
light blue cotton with horses in various shades from dark brown to creamy white. I plan to make a blouse, using LaFred's Athena Blouse pattern. I will need to alter the pattern to fit me better, as the last time I made it was over fifteen years and umpteen pounds ago. I measured the pattern pieces against my current TNT blouse pattern, as best I could. The Athena blouse has an interesting square armscye, and as I recall has sort of dropped shoulders and a loose fit. I was worried that there might not be enough fabric, as I only had three yards, and in the interim since I purchased it, Heather Ross fabric has become crazy collectable*, so getting any extra wouldn't be an option! Fortunately I remembered that the pattern was designed for a much taller woman, and once I adjusted the length of the blouse to fit my 5'2" self, there was just enough.

Going to put the fabric pieces, together with some thread, chosen buttons, and a piece of well washed white sheeting for sew in interfacing for the front edge, into a tote bag as a sewing kit for this week, whenever I get a bit of time.

*this is a fat quarter of the same OOP fabric - at 22.77 USD! which would be a bit over 90 dollars a yard!! for quilting cotton, albeit rather pretty quilting cotton on a nice substrate. 
 
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

My horses blouse is finished, and I hope to take a photo of it "as worn" if we get a day when it isn't pouring rain. I modified the Athena Blouse pattern (reshaped collar tips, added peplum, midlength sleeves with cuff bands)
A good rummage in the button box, and I found these antler buttons, which just seemed to fit with the colors of the ponies...
The shawl collar construction worked very well, but I was not entirely happy with the shape of the finished collar (no fault of the pattern); the wide spreading shape doesn't suit my face, and the grain of the collar means that the horses on the collar are once again tilted. I reshaped that part of the collar to a scalloped and curved edge instead. Fortunately I had not yet stitched the collar facing down, so it only needed my making up a template, turning the facing/front inside out, and re-stitching and pressing.
.
...and, in the end, it is sort of a wearable muslin, in that (while it is quite wearable and will coordinate well with all my pinafores) some significant modification was needed, and I would probably do a bit more fine tuning before making it up again. First off, I cut the blouse fabric an inch and a half too long, despite shortening the pattern beforehand. I no longer do a turned hem on blouses that will only be worn underneath pinafores, as since the hemline always remains unseen, simply serging the hem edge gives a flatter and faster edge treatment that is just as durable.

Also, the mostly straight up and down bodice ended up needing some additional hip width, and rather than fit in some godets, which would be most annoying to finish the points and edges, I decided to whack out as long a rectangle from the remaining scraps as could be managed, sew repeating darts into the rectangle to curve it, and then cut a centered rectangle on the back of the already stitched blouse and inset the curved rectangle as a flared peplum. Definitely a non-standard alteration, but it echoes the square armscye and looks intentional. In the future I would also want to cut the sleeves at least an inch longer, which would have been possible had I not cut the front and back too long. Overall the pattern now gives me a second (almost) TNT option if a straight grain blouse front is needed, I love the square armsceye, and intend to do some more fine tuning the fit as well as experiment with collar shapes in the future.

I made the blouse entirely from a treasured piece of fabric I had on my resource shelves for a long time, I used some old sheeting as sew in interfacing for the front facing/collar panels, and the pattern itself and the antler buttons have been in my files for years. I feel pretty good about turning all this into a garment I will enjoy wearing, and about working through some of the needed changes in a pattern I've not used in a long time.

My theme for SWAP 2020 is the song "One Misty Moisty Morning" by Steeleye Span. The last verse begins: "...Then lusty Ralph and Robin with many damsels gay, did ride on Roan and Dobbin to celebrate the day..." Roan and Dobbin are horse names, which is how I justify adding this patterned fabric to my SWAP collection
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

made progress on the grey wool capelet/gollar... I cut out the already modified pattern pieces, same as I used for the my rain capelet, but this time using a finely woven brushed grey herringbone wool for the outer layer instead of Goretex. For the inner layer, I looked through my shelf of melton cloth pieces, all of which are from the late lamented actual "mill ends" formerly available at a local fabric store years ago. I picked a deep chocolate brown, thinking that would be a great coordinate for a chunk of my wardrobe. I noticed that it felt different than most of the other melton, somehow "silkier"... which would make it feel wonderful against my neck... and then I noticed that it had a different mark on the selvedge:

Much to my surprise, I had a luscious piece of cashmere from Amicale Fabrics! Since the piece wasn't big enough to make an entire garment, I feel no qualms about using it to line my capelet; it will bring me a great deal of everyday pleasure as well as warmth.

I've stitched the lining pieces together, and stitched the outer layer pieces together. Next I will tack the lining and the outer layer together along the shoulder seams, and then it will be time to stitch the black wool edge binding in place.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

the grey wool/cashmere capelet is finished, I stitched an extra round of bias wool trim banding around the lower edge to echo that in historical images; alternating hooks and eyes down the center front opening hold it closed... It is just as cozy for wearing around the house as I had envisioned.
So, how am I doing on my SWAP progress so far...
  • grey canvas chore coat
  • grey herringbone wool capelet - done
  • grey cloud collar knit top - sewn after rules
  • grey/black houndstooth flannel shirt
  • blue/brown horses blouse - done
  • grey linen pinafore
  • black corduroy pinafore - previously sewn
  • black/cream pinstripe dress
  • dark grey chambray dress
  • black/blue/grey stripey dress - previously sewn
  • grey knit leggings
So, having taken advantage of all the sewing prior to SWAP that is allowed, and being more timely than I usually am about getting things stitched up, I still have six more garments to complete. Probably next up will be the grey knit leggings, since it is still the middle of winter here, and they will be very welcome (I wear them underneath my pinafores and dresses when it is cold, not as pants) After that I will be making up the houndstooth flannel shirt, and am hoping that there is enough fabric so that I can make full length sleeves with a proper cuff and tower placket... fingers crossed, as I've not yet laid out the pattern pieces
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

I don't know what possessed me to write grey leggings into my plan when the only piece of knit fabric in my stash large enough for a pair of leggings is a thrifted brown jersey bedsheet intended for knitwear toiles. (The thing is, I could really use a few more pair of wintertime leggings... am tempted to order just ordered some lengths of cotton lycra, in various colors, from Girl Charlee)

So, with sewing of leggings on temporary hold, I turned to the grey/black flannel shirt. There is enough fabric to eke out most of the pattern pieces, if I cut the undercollar, inner cuffs, inner yoke, and the under placket from a complimentary fabric. Fortunately I found some suitable remnants of quilting cotton fabric, black with grey polkadots (used for a former everyday dress). I'm looking forward to the challenge of learning how to make the tower placket.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

The challenge of learning how to make the tower placket turned out very successfully, and I shall be able to use that technique on other future projects. If it was possible in the very thick cotton flannel, it will definitely be easier in thinner fabric. All that still remains is to finish the cuffs, and make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons...


That will have my SWAP sewing just a bit more than half done. I really need to start on a toile for the canvas chore coat soon; for some reason I always feel reluctant to take on a "deal with fitting" project, even though I know that once I get underway, the results will be well worth it...
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

I found a length of tweedy (if thin) jersey in one of my fabric storage boxes, enough to cut out a pair of grey cropped leggings. It is still cold enough that these will be a welcome addition to my everyday wardrobe, as well as a good SWAP garment. I decided to trim the hemline edge with blockprinted bands using the two new counterchanged triangular blocks I carved a while ago. This was my first time using these particular blocks, and I am quite pleased with the design they make...
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

The black/grey gingham flannel shirt is completed, and my guesstimate for how long to make the sleeves turned out to be just right. I will be making a note of that on the pattern for future reference, and foresee some additional shirts (as opposed to blouses) in my future sewing at some point...
The collar and neckline of the shirt, showing two different sides of the polkadot fabric (yoke facing, and bias binding along collar shirt seam), bias and straight-of-grain use of the gingham flannel.
The successful tower placket, both closed (above), and open (below)...again showing how I used the polkadot fabric to line the cuff and also to create the inner placket.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

  • grey canvas chore coat
  • grey herringbone wool capelet (completed)
  • grey linen pinafore
  • black corduroy pinafore (previously sewn)
  • black/grey gingham flannel shirt (completed)
  • grey cloud collar knit top (sewn after rules)
  • light blue horses blouse (completed)
  • black/blue/grey stripey dress (previously sewn)
  • cream/black pinstripe dress
  • grey/black chambray dress
  • grey knit leggings (completed)

My new grey leggings are completed, here worn with my new grey/black flannel shirt, and the black corduroy pinafore... While I am quite happy with how the block printed trim turned out, the thin knit fabric is a bit "sticky" and keeps trying to crawl up my legs, for all that it is soft and cozy. I am wondering if it isn't a cotton knit after all, but maybe a hemp/rayon? I shall not use such soft knit again for leggings, but stick to either medium/heavy cotton lycra, or Polartec.

Since there are four things left on my list, and three of them are easy as pie to make up, being TNT patterns in linen fabric, I have no choice but to dive into my other big challenge of the SWAP, to make the new-to-me chore coat pattern into one that fits in a way I am pleased with. I don't want to leave that til the last; I know how long it takes me to stitch up an everyday dress, or a pinafore, but have no idea how many iterations will be necessary for a new pattern...
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

in the last month and a half or more since I last posted here, it has been a real challenge to find my balance again, and sewing for myself has really taken a back seat. I'm somewhat recovered from my bone graft/gum surgery at the beginning of March, and a few days after that I went into complete isolate-at-home mode. Gradually am adapting to that as best I can, and now that I am partially done with the assorted "mask sewing" that I volunteered to do, I am actually thinking about my SWAP plans. Somehow, with it being springtime now, I may switch up a few of my choices for what else to make, as I am not really feeling like I want to wear "all grey all the time", but am being drawn to adding a bit of teal/turquoise into the mix. Which rather plays hob with my initial inspiration, but maybe I can figure out a way to tie it in?

I'm thinking that instead of two more basically grey dresses, I will instead make myself a teal pinafore to fill one of my empty spots. I have some teal/black midweight chambray fabric that will coordinate with a number of my current tops, and I am really feeling a great desire to wear something with a bit of color. A pinafore would be not too difficult a garment for me to tackle in my current state of mind, maybe I will tackle making a start on it this weekend
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

changing out some of the grey/black components, because between isolating at home, and the change of seasons, I have been wanting to add just a bit of color to my SWAP... Instead of one of the dresses, I am going to make a floral blouse from this indigo/teal floral cotton. I will be using my TNT bias front blouse pattern, and inserting pale blue vintage micro rick rack (that I found on Etsy) as "piping" in the collar edge, and down the front of the button band edges, and maybe in the sleeve bands.
When I took a closer look at the fabric before marking the pattern pieces and cutting them out, I realised that the print was directional, which I had somehow not noticed when I bought it. This will complicate the cutting layout, as it would look subtly wierd, I think, to have the foliage not all going in the same direction. This fabric has so many colors in the print (indigo, medium blue, light blue, teal, light teal, leaf green, gold, and white) that it will be wearable with all my pinafores, including the new teal/black chambray and the new grey linen both waiting to be stitched up... I am eager to finish cutting this blouse out and getting started!
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

started sewing my teal floral blouse; I must say that inserting the micro-rick-rack in the collar edge was not easy! I had to re-do a number of sections more than once, as there is just barely any clearance between catching enough of the trim and burying the fun little points inside the seam. I am not sure about inserting it into the front button band seams, as it will be barely noticeable; I will "sleep on it" and see how I feel in the morning...
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

making slow steady progress on my floral blouse... today I'm working on the front button bands, and decided to go ahead and attempt to insert the micro rick rack into the inner seam. That turned out to be a lot simpler than the collar, as I can sort of "lay in" the trim as I slowly topstitch the upper layer of the band in place.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

aLmost there... I still need to take some better photos than this "hanger shot" of my new floral blouse in the closet, patiently waiting for me to sew up a new coordinating pinafore:
I was really nervous that the micro rick rack would turn out to be too twee, but I think it doesn't go over the edge into trying to dress like a child, but simply reads as emphasis
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn