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Indigotiger's Misty Morning SWAP (comments in discussion thread please)

Started by indigotiger, October 30, 2019, 05:31:57 pm

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indigotiger

I seem to be currently craving grey in my wardrobe, so am going to focus my SWAP efforts in that direction, probably accented with the darker colors from my palette. I've been poking about on the resource shelves seeing what I have that can work. There's a bit of black/grey tiny gingham flannel which will make a nice shirt, a conversational print of brown and white ponies on pale blue that will make a playful blouse, some medium heavy grey linen for a new pinafore, and some grey wool herringbone earmarked for a gollar/capelet. I've ordered some heavier dark grey canvas to make a chore coat.
I will probably use this years new black/grey/blue stripey dress as my "sewn previous to SWAP" garment, and if my current experimental collaged cardigan I'm working on turns out wearable, that will also be included. There are a number of possiblities in the made before the rules section. For made after the rules, but before 26 December, I will probably make the gollar (I made one for my friend Maeva, when I made her a set of 16th century German clothing for a special event she was attending.) The gollar seems like an incredibly practical garment to wear around my chilly house this winter!

I don't have a specific image for inspiration, but rather have been using this Steeleye Span song (which I first heard them play live when they toured the USA back in the early 70's):
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

A bit more thinking about interpreting my theme: The most obvious choices are colors - mostly grey foggy misty colors, maybe with some dark blue for just before sunrise, and maybe some light blue as the sun could be peeping through the mist... . Since my original impetus for this theme was the desire for a grey pinafore, this will help fill out that section of my wardrobe. I've had several grey pinafores over the years, and they always wear out, as they are always a favorite.

possible motifs to be used: clouds first come to mind; perhaps a knit top embellished with a cloud collar design, or maybe block printed clouds as an edging... maybe floral/foliage motifs "a-sitting in the bower", maybe some horses for the "ride on Roan and Dobbin to celebrate the day"

overall feel: rustic rather than polished, country rather than city; some wool, maybe even some leather as trimming?

The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

Ginger-sews

Sounds interesting... can't wait to see how this evolves!
Ginger
Ginger

sewist, artist, quilter, musician, computer programmer, girlfriend, Grandfriend to one sweet baby, mom, gym rat

indigotiger

SWAP plans are solidifying for what garments will work together well and I'm getting a clearer idea of what I hope to make (always subject to change...) My two garments that will be wearable with each outfit will be a grey chore coat and a grey wool herringbone capelet.

I'm going to make a grey linen pinafore, and my other pinafore will be my "already made" black corduroy pinafore. My other "already made" garment will be my stripey black/grey/blue everyday dress.

I'll make two more dresses, one in a black/cream mini-stripe, and one in a black/white chambray. (Both will be overdyed, one in grey and one in brown). All three of the dresses can be worn with either of the pinafores.

In addition, a shirt from grey/black gingham flannel, a scrappy/collaged grey knit top with cloud collar embellishment, and a light blue print with horses in cream/brown will get turned into a blouse. All the tops can be worn with either of the pinafores. The last of the eleven is waiting on further inspiration/clarity... could be grey knit top (not sure about that one, as my drawer for knit tops is getting pretty full!), or grey leggings, or a grey Polartech pullover, or even a pair of grey denim overalls if I feel adventurous in both senses of the word. (I've not made overalls in at least ten years, and my prior pair is long worn out...)
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

Now that my scrappy collage cardigan has been completed, I've been working on the long sleeve knit top to go with it. The cardigan won't be part of SWAP, but the knit top will coordinate with all my other planned sewing. The "cloud collar" embellishment is being done in the Alabama Chanin hand stitched reverse applique technique.
It took a bit of time cogitating on the best way to end up with an easy to see stitchable motif from the scrap of black interlock... I finally realised that a sort of "reverse stencil" that reserved the black lines, but painted the background would work. Freezer paper stenciling gives a very crisp result, and by folding the freezer paper in half before cutting out the design, a perfectly symmetrical stencil is created.

The cut freezer paper is ironed to the fabric, and the background is painted with some pewter fabric paint, (which will mostly all be cut away in the end, though perhaps just a bit of the sparkle will show along the cut edges)

The painted interlock is basted to a scrap of the lighter black/cream marled hemp knit fabric, and then lots of overcast stitching along the motif lines is the next step. This phase took about five hours of spare time on transit and waiting for appointments. In the photo, the right half shows the painted layer cut away where the stitching is completed, and the left side is still to be completed.

This shows most of the completed effect, as I added some striped knit strips as outlining the cloud motif, and then stitched the collar to the body. This has four different fabric scraps, the completed knit top will have six, as there is also the floral front/back fabric, and the additional stripey ribbing that will bind the neckline and cuff edges
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

my long sleeve knit top is completed. I wanted to continue using up the leftover scraps from various other knit top projects. This top used grey cotton floral jersey, grey/white marled hemp, black/cream marled hemp, black/cream striped cotton rib, blue/grey striped hemp, and black cotton/lycra jersey.
I used some of my favorite Alabama Chanin style techniques of hand stitching, and reverse applique. One difficulty I had was that there wasn't quite enough of the grey floral cotton to cut out the whole of the front and back pieces, so I had to add extra piecing to the sides of the pattern pieces (which isn't really visible when I wear it) and do some rather tricksy sorting out around the neckline in how I overlapped the pieces. Normally I would cut out the whole front pieces, and then stitch on any decorative bits, and only then cut away any excess layers... in this case, I had to use the pattern pieces as a template to line up the collar layers atop the partial front panels, which was annoying, but the results were worth it.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

today I started cutting out my horses fabric...
light blue cotton with horses in various shades from dark brown to creamy white. I plan to make a blouse, using LaFred's Athena Blouse pattern. I will need to alter the pattern to fit me better, as the last time I made it was over fifteen years and umpteen pounds ago. I measured the pattern pieces against my current TNT blouse pattern, as best I could. The Athena blouse has an interesting square armscye, and as I recall has sort of dropped shoulders and a loose fit. I was worried that there might not be enough fabric, as I only had three yards, and in the interim since I purchased it, Heather Ross fabric has become crazy collectable*, so getting any extra wouldn't be an option! Fortunately I remembered that the pattern was designed for a much taller woman, and once I adjusted the length of the blouse to fit my 5'2" self, there was just enough.

Going to put the fabric pieces, together with some thread, chosen buttons, and a piece of well washed white sheeting for sew in interfacing for the front edge, into a tote bag as a sewing kit for this week, whenever I get a bit of time.

*this is a fat quarter of the same OOP fabric - at 22.77 USD! which would be a bit over 90 dollars a yard!! for quilting cotton, albeit rather pretty quilting cotton on a nice substrate. 
 
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

My horses blouse is finished, and I hope to take a photo of it "as worn" if we get a day when it isn't pouring rain. I modified the Athena Blouse pattern (reshaped collar tips, added peplum, midlength sleeves with cuff bands)
A good rummage in the button box, and I found these antler buttons, which just seemed to fit with the colors of the ponies...
The shawl collar construction worked very well, but I was not entirely happy with the shape of the finished collar (no fault of the pattern); the wide spreading shape doesn't suit my face, and the grain of the collar means that the horses on the collar are once again tilted. I reshaped that part of the collar to a scalloped and curved edge instead. Fortunately I had not yet stitched the collar facing down, so it only needed my making up a template, turning the facing/front inside out, and re-stitching and pressing.
.
...and, in the end, it is sort of a wearable muslin, in that (while it is quite wearable and will coordinate well with all my pinafores) some significant modification was needed, and I would probably do a bit more fine tuning before making it up again. First off, I cut the blouse fabric an inch and a half too long, despite shortening the pattern beforehand. I no longer do a turned hem on blouses that will only be worn underneath pinafores, as since the hemline always remains unseen, simply serging the hem edge gives a flatter and faster edge treatment that is just as durable.

Also, the mostly straight up and down bodice ended up needing some additional hip width, and rather than fit in some godets, which would be most annoying to finish the points and edges, I decided to whack out as long a rectangle from the remaining scraps as could be managed, sew repeating darts into the rectangle to curve it, and then cut a centered rectangle on the back of the already stitched blouse and inset the curved rectangle as a flared peplum. Definitely a non-standard alteration, but it echoes the square armscye and looks intentional. In the future I would also want to cut the sleeves at least an inch longer, which would have been possible had I not cut the front and back too long. Overall the pattern now gives me a second (almost) TNT option if a straight grain blouse front is needed, I love the square armsceye, and intend to do some more fine tuning the fit as well as experiment with collar shapes in the future.

I made the blouse entirely from a treasured piece of fabric I had on my resource shelves for a long time, I used some old sheeting as sew in interfacing for the front facing/collar panels, and the pattern itself and the antler buttons have been in my files for years. I feel pretty good about turning all this into a garment I will enjoy wearing, and about working through some of the needed changes in a pattern I've not used in a long time.

My theme for SWAP 2020 is the song "One Misty Moisty Morning" by Steeleye Span. The last verse begins: "...Then lusty Ralph and Robin with many damsels gay, did ride on Roan and Dobbin to celebrate the day..." Roan and Dobbin are horse names, which is how I justify adding this patterned fabric to my SWAP collection
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

indigotiger

made progress on the grey wool capelet/gollar... I cut out the already modified pattern pieces, same as I used for the my rain capelet, but this time using a finely woven brushed grey herringbone wool for the outer layer instead of Goretex. For the inner layer, I looked through my shelf of melton cloth pieces, all of which are from the late lamented actual "mill ends" formerly available at a local fabric store years ago. I picked a deep chocolate brown, thinking that would be a great coordinate for a chunk of my wardrobe. I noticed that it felt different than most of the other melton, somehow "silkier"... which would make it feel wonderful against my neck... and then I noticed that it had a different mark on the selvedge:

Much to my surprise, I had a luscious piece of cashmere from Amicale Fabrics! Since the piece wasn't big enough to make an entire garment, I feel no qualms about using it to line my capelet; it will bring me a great deal of everyday pleasure as well as warmth.

I've stitched the lining pieces together, and stitched the outer layer pieces together. Next I will tack the lining and the outer layer together along the shoulder seams, and then it will be time to stitch the black wool edge binding in place.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn