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Ruthie's Red and Black Collection (comments in the main discussion thread please)

Started by Sew Ruthie Sews, October 30, 2019, 03:34:33 pm

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Sew Ruthie Sews

In January I made this jacket, but its a bit of an orphan, so I'd like to use some of the co-ordinating fabrics to make a mini wardrobe. I may not actually include the jacket in the final collection but its part of the inspiration for my collection.

The colour palette for the collection is wider than the jacket, inspired by this silk fabric from my resources, which I plan to use in the SWAP in one (or more) garments.
The silk has at least 5 colours - light red, dark red, white, several greys and black.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

So in terms of items which must co-ordinate with all of the others, I think a red cardigan and a black cardigan or coat would be good.

This year I think I might try making a dress as the rules are quite helpful for that, and fill the rest of the spots with an assortment of bottoms and tops, one of the tops will be silk (new for me).

I will endeavour to branch out a little in terms of the patterns I use, and not just reuse the same TnTs over and over!
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I'm going to sew with silk as my 'new' technique but I thought that maybe another little extra could be pockets in absolutely everything, which means I'd need to learn how to sew pockets in knits (which I generally avoid).
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

So absolutely no progress on SWAP. I'm still happy with my theme based round the silk fabric but the pre SWAP coat only got as far as tracing the front piece from La Maison Victor. Then after a week of it hogging the table I folded it up for another time.

Although not a great lover of black I've got some in my wardrobe. I noticed recently that there are a few pieces I could really do with so will incorporate those into my plan.

Slim leg black pants for wearing with oversized tops.
Wide leg black pants (poss with tuxedo side stripe) for dressier occasions.
* Longer length black cardigan with pockets.
* Red cardigan with pockets.
The cardigans will be the pieces which go with everything.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I've been gathering black and red fabrics for SWAP 2020 and here are some of the options.
I've moved roles at work, and its a lot less trousers suits, more comfortable separates.


This is some beautiful silk I bought in Goldhawk Road in July 2010. I plan for it to be the front of a top, with the grey jersey as the back.
This fabric is the inspiration for the whole of my SWAP 2020 both in colourway and in the garment style - a relaxed vibe with touches of oriental luxe.


Next up are some plain black fabrics.
Top Left is charcoal quilted fabric, which will hopefully become a simple unlined coat. I'm very excited about this at the moment.
Lower Left is black baby cord.
The two central fabrics are woven wool mix suitable for jackets, and the two right fabrics are plain trouser fabric. I have a number of other plain black fabrics e.g. ponte, jersey and some pinstripe trouser fabrics too, so these selections may change.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


Now onto the red. Top left and centre are red ponte fabrics, one a brighter red than the other. Top right is a red and black print jersey.
Bottom left is a small remnant of sweater knit, which would probably need combining with another fabric to make a garment. Bottom centre is a jersey printed with bright splashes of white. Bottom right is some red stretch lace.


More reds. Top left is a woven suiting fabric, used for the body of my moto jacket. Upper and lower right fabrics are jacquard knits used for the sleeves of the moto jacket.  I'm not quite sure what I'd make from these as yet. Lower right is a drapey fabric which could be a blouse or skirt.


Finally a poly jacquard border print and a mesh print.

I won't be using all the these fabrics for the SWAP, but a few have me particularly excited.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I've not managed to make anything for SWAP between the rules being announced and Christmas so I'll do everything during the SWAP main timeframe.

I have managed to find time to buy yet more fabric

Wovens
Left - lovely soft tartan fabric, will be skirt or trousers.
Centre - black denim
Right - lots of black bengaline, so useful in the wardrobe.


Knits
Left - Black with grey spots, beautifully soft.
Top - red crinkle knit with smooth back
Bottom - Black textured knit
Right - thick polyester ponte (the sort that kills needles)
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I clearly have sufficient resources for a SWAP twice, so thought I'd stop buying and start making.
I am using this pre-quilted fabric to make a simple coat

I'm using Simplicity 8467 as a starting point.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/


Sew Ruthie Sews

I'm planning to have a whole outfit done by the end of January - so some pants/trousers and a knit top.

The trousers are going to be tartan with a contrast side stripe. Though mine will probably have a black side stripe as there is red already in the tartan, here's my inspiration and fabric.


Then a red knit top using the centre bottom fabric (red with white splashes).
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Tartan trews completed

Tartan trousers with black side stripe and waistband

Tartan matched across the pockets/front.

And across the back where I could.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

These are based on New Look 6216 with the side stripe added.


I cut the fabric single layer to get the tartan to match. It's a fine fabric with high polyester content and it moved about a lot and frayed a great deal. The side stripe/waistband are from plain black bengaline.

Planning to wear these for a Burns Night event at the local pub!

Skills - pattern matching tartan, modifying a TNT to follow inspiration.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

My entry for the PR Sewing Bee round 1, which doesn't quite go with my colour scheme here.


Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Pull on blouse with pleated neckline and sleeves.


I used the sewing pattern from Prima Magazine May 2010 as my starting point (a UK women's magazine). I chose the top length but the dress sleeves. I used fold over elastic on the neckband instead of bias binding. I constructed in a different order and pleated the sleeves into the cuffs (which I made wider) rather than gathering them. I omitted the back waist darts, but cut the back with a centre seam.

Wouldn't wear this with the tartan trousers, so better sew some plainer things for the SWAP too!
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Currently undecided if this will be in SWAP or not.

For the main fabric I chose a grey plaid shot with silver threads which highlights the woven nature of the fabric, and gave me an opportunity to cut the bands and pockets on the bias. I adapted New Look 6397 as I liked the angled component of the hem in View A. However knowing I wanted large visible pockets on the lower part of the garment I made some alterations to the pattern.
- Cut out a size M as the pattern is very oversized.
- Changed the armhole and sleeve head to be more set in (though still relaxed)
- Lengthened the front and back to give more 'skirt' for the pockets
- Added a lining
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


Here's my latest make, a button front shirt, looks at a distance like it might be a paisley or floral design.


But get up close and you can see musical notes!
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


I'm pleased with the collar and silver stylised rose buttons.


Here's the cuff. I cut it extra wide and put 2 buttonholes in the cuff, then folded it back and used only one button through both buttonholes (sort of gives a cufflink effect).
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


Here's the pattern from March 2020 Prima Magazine (a UK women's magazine that comes with a free sewing pattern if you subscribe). I measured a RTW shirt and cut a curved hem from the dress pattern.


Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

So I think I'm making a SWOAP - ie sewing without a plan, BUT with a colour scheme (if you ignore the outlier t shirt.) I have allowed myself to get distracted by contests in other places and not stuck to my course, have to say that I have been enjoying it but I've not really sewn cohesive looks.
Am I likely to wear tartan trousers with musical note shirt? Maybe but not with the grey jacket on top.
So I think I could do with sewing some plainer pieces that will co-ordinate better and may need to remove some of the more wacky pieces from the collection.


Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

My two entries for the sewing bee were a diversion and don't fit with my SWAP plan.

As the rules this year are different, I want to make top and trouser outfits and then have a choice of layering pieces which can work over any of the outfits.
Some of the tops and bottoms won't work well together, but others will and this is OK.


First up is the black quilted coat, this will work over any of the outfits.
For the second layering piece I am planning a long red cardigan. (not yet sewn).
The animal print knit top, needs a plainer bottom, so some black bengaline trousers are in order there.
A plain black knit top with some interesting details would work well with the tartan trousers.
And I'm planning a knit top in red jersey with a splash print on it.

After that if something can work with either a plain black top or plain black trousers and go under the coat or cardigan it can be in the collection.
I want to use the silk which inspired the whole collection. This will be another top.


Maybe some grey bengaline trousers would be another good piece as there is grey in the animal print and the silk.
And then leave things open for piece 11 as there are lots of ways that could go - red dress, red top, red skirt, black dress, black pinstripe tailored trousers....
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I'm working on some plain black trousers in a bengaline. I've adapted New Look 6216 so the pockets have a smaller more horizontal entry and are slightly wider/deeper.
I'm also going to add belt loops and a deeper hem.

They are otherwise fairly boring but hopefully will be a very useful piece.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


These black trousers are made from bengaline (a stretch woven).
I used New Look 6216 again.
For this version I left off the front tie, but added 5 large belt loops. I also made the pockets, longer and wider and changed the opening to be more jeans style (top entry) which keeps the contents more secure. I also scooped the back crotch for my low derriere.
Whilst they are not much to look at they are super comfortable and have already been worn a lot.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Black floral shirt

This is my next piece for SWAP 2020, a woven shirt using the same pattern I used for the musical shirt. I made it the same way except with different cuffs (wider than the pattern but narrower than the folded over cuffs of the musical shirt).
I even had the perfect buttons deep in stash, white pearl with a black back and shank, which sit beautifully.
I love how this came out.

The pattern I used is from March 2020 Prima Magazine (a UK women's magazine).
I shortened the shirt dress pattern to be a shirt.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I pulled out this OOP Butterick pattern from 2000 (mine is size 14-16-18) from the pattern collection, when I was thinking about making culottes, instead I decided to make the trousers (far right).

I thought I'd help myself with the crotch curves by copying them off the black bengaline trousers and transferring onto this pattern. This involved altering the back pattern piece quite a bit but just changing the curve slightly on the front.

I made the front waistband longer as I am flatter at the front but swaybacked.

I then partly constructed the trousers and tried them on to see if I could manage without the back zip. They have a fixed front waistband, a centre back zip and a back elastic casing to two parts either side of the zip. This seemed overkill and I wanted to avoid the zip if possible.

Overall they were too long in the waist and I didn't like the way the back casing would have an angle in it (from my alteration). I marked either side of 1 inch elastic with a sliver of soap (I prefer soap to chalk on dark fabrics).

Here's what that looks like.

The white lines are drawn above and below the elastic belt and are broadly where I want the waistband to be. The front has the waistband attached but flipped up.

The back includes the casing but flipped up.
The lines are a bit wonky as I'm doing this for myself whilst wearing them, so I will smooth them out to something sensible.

So this time I will trim off from the top of the waist, but that will affect the pockets. They are large with a big opening so they will still be usable once shortened, but it may be best to shorten the tissue in a different place for next time.

I'll show you what they look like once I have done that and finished them properly.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I sat last night doodling wardrobe ideas and came up with a 20 piece plan for which I already have the fabrics (and I am sure patterns) in the BLACK/GREY/RED colour scheme.
I stopped at that point.
It may be of course that when I come to it some of the pieces just don't work due to fabric direction, yardage or some other constraint, but once I've sorted out the stripe trousers I'm planning a few more pieces using black thread!
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I've reworked and finished the trousers from Butterick 3947.
I added a separate casing for the back, 5 belt loops. The front has been shortened by 5cm (2 inches) and the band reattached. The back was shortened to match the chalk markings and the new casing attached.

Front with flat waistband


Back with elastic casing and alteration for large and low derriere (look odd on hanger but good on person).


Here's a close up of the fabric, the pinstripes are made of double stripes alternately in white and pale grey, with the pale grey also having an outer stripe of an invisible thread which sometimes catches the light.
The fabrics was from deep stash, a 2m cut which seems to be a nice quality wool mix suiting. I have no recall whatsoever where I bought it.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Here's my latest project a zip front jacket, using Prima Feb 2010 and the leftover quilted fabric from the coat I made right at the start of the year.


I used this Pattern from Prima magazine Feb 2010. To avoid too much seaming in this bulky fabric I converted the collar in an attached collar and cut the two fronts and the collar as a single piece without a seam. It gives a lovely clean finish which I really like.

It has inseam pockets in the front panel seams. I made them larger and more rectangular (copying a favourite RTW jacket) and they have been hand stitched to the zipper tape for security. The pockets are made from black bengaline left from the black trousers as I thought quilted pockets would be too thick.
My version is also a couple of inches longer and has a front zipper instead of hooks (the original design was made in faux fur).
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I've had problems accessing SG for quite a few days, though resolved today.

In the meantime I have made a black cardigan


A red cardigan


And a Style Arc Marni jacket from scraps
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Just had a review of what I've sewn and whilst there are 11 items in the SWAP colour theme it doesn't meet the rules as I have 5 layering pieces, 3 tops and 3 trousers and I've not sewn the silk yet.

So could do with
- black knit top
- silk top
- grey trousers
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Yesterday I had a cutting out session for about 3 hours, mostly TnTs

Refreshing the summer nightwear

- mint green PJ trousers - New Look 6216 trs
- mint green PJ top - copied from RTW.
- pale mint cropped PJ trousers - New Look 6216 trs

More for the SWAP colourway

- silk/ jersey top - New Look 6420 top
- viscose / jersey top - New Look 6216 top
- grey jersey top - Style Arc Molly
- charcoal bengaline trousers - New Look 6216 trs

Then I sewed up both
- silk/ jersey top - New Look 6420 top
- viscose / jersey top - New Look 6216 top
but I think some tweaking is required so not ready to share just yet.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Style Arc Molly in grey knit

I've  split the tuck into multiple tucks, and have it on the other side, and have cuffs for the bottom of the sleeves due to fabric limitations. Otherwise it is as per pattern.

This makes a fun outfit with the red cardigan and tartan trousers.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


My possibilities thus far. The two dolman sleeve tops are now tweaked but need pressing before photos.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

New Look 6420 - Silk and jersey dolman sleeve top

I bought this silk fabric on a sewing weekend in London in July 2010. It is the inspiration for my SWAP colourway so I wanted to include it, but in a simple easy wear garment that suits the new normal.
The jersey was in my stash but bought before lockdown from the local fabric shop.

I picked New Look 6420, and initially made it up as the pattern. I then reshaped it so it came in closer under the arms and in the bust/waist area, flaring back out at the hem.

I also folded the neckband over and stitched it down for a clean finish and narrower neckband.
I finished the hems with a baby hem, as a coverhem hem would be prone to fraying on the woven silk.
I may shorten it in future, but reshaped it is much better.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Viscose and jersey T top - New Look 6216

This is the long sleeved top that is part of my favourite New Look 6216 pattern (I use the trousers all the time). I cut the front from a viscose woven fabric and the back and neckband from grey jersey

Compared to the New Look 6420 top it is shorter, and a lot less batwing in shape, but the longer sleeved version has a bateau neckline which I would change in future. The short sleeved version is a different pattern piece and has more of a scooped neckline.
So I think any future versions are likely to take elements from both views.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Here are my final 11 pieces, the coat on the right goes with everything (and over the jacket and both cardigans).
The other pieces make outfits that can be worn under the coat.


My new techniques are sewing with silk and sewing with pre quilted fabric.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/