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SWAP 2020 general discussion thread

Started by Lisanne, October 30, 2019, 05:35:57 am

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Ginger-sews

@sewruthiesews love the coat... you motivate me to get moving!
Ginger

sewist, artist, quilter, musician, computer programmer, girlfriend, Grandfriend to one sweet baby, mom, gym rat

sewordinary

@Sew Ruthie Sews love the idea of the plaid pants with contrast stripe with the red knit top!  :crush:

Sew Ruthie Sews

Thanks @sewordinary it might be a bit much together - we shall see!
perhaps one patterned/coloured item per outfit is enough.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

crazyquilter

Hi, I have tossed my hat into the ring and I already have a problem.  I'm working on a muslin for the Dottie Angel dress pattern Simplicity 1080.  I'd really like to use this or a similar style top for my SWAP, maybe multiple times. 


Alteration help by Dawn Smith, on Flickr

I've posted several pics on my individual thread hoping someone will be able to help me.  I like how it looks and feels if I keep my arms down or up as in the first four pics on my individual thread.  Bringing my arms forward like in the last two shots causes the problem.  It binds and is uncomfortable. At first I thought I would just try slitting the back and making it wider at the top, but I think that would make the shoulders mess up. I did lower the side seam to make the arm hole longer, but that didn't seem to help.  Maybe I just need to cut a bigger size.  I'm really at a loss as to where to start.

I would appreciate any help with adjusting the pattern I can get.  I'm not looking for perfect fit since this is basically a loose fitting top/dress anyway, but I would like to feel comfortable in it.  If you have any ideas, please post them on the main discussion thread.

KathrynT

Crazyquilter, can I make a suggestion before you start to look for alterations? Wear your top and try doing some regular things to see how much of a problem it is. Sit at the table and use a knife and fork, try typing on the computer, try sewing and sit in the car and hold the steering wheel.  When I saw tha last photo on your individual thread, I thought that most woven tops would pull if you stretched your arms forward like that. I'm not sure how often you would do that movement in real life. I suspect driving will be the real test of how tight it is.

indigotiger

January 10, 2020, 04:20:42 pm #215 Last Edit: January 10, 2020, 04:28:28 pm by indigotiger
crazyquilter - Looking at your photos, I don't think that you need to use a larger size of the pattern, as overall the top seems to fit you fairly well.  I will offer my several suggestions, as I am quite familiar with the particular annoying issue you describe. (I have noticed in the last several years the same issue in my own clothing, and in my case I attribute it to my shoulders becoming more "forward set" over many years of various sorts of handwork/sewing/using a keyboard etc)

the most frequent alteration I do to a pattern is to add a narrow yoke across the back as high up as I can manage and still have it look well. I then add width to the remaining part of the back pattern piece, and pleat it into the yoke. This alteration will, of necessity, increase the general width of the back of the garment, which may or may not be an issue for you, and it is worth experimenting with a muslin to see just how much extra to add. The good thing about this alteration is that it has no effect on either the shoulder seam, or on the armscye or armhole, but simply adds ease where it is needed for forward motion.
Other possible alterations are to simply increase the width of the back pattern piece by adding to the center back, and then using either a dart, or a center back seam, to take up the excess width so that the neckline is not too wide. I usually use this type of alteration on knit tops, as it tends to look odd on woven fabric, unless the fabric is very drapey.

Another option I have used on some occasions is what I call the "motorcycle jacket gusset", which would not work for your simple top, but which is useful for more fitted garments with a conventional armsceye, where one still desires complete range of motion. I have a whole blog post explaining that, as I get asked about it from time to time...
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

mahgret

crazyquilter, I had a simple dress with a similar problem to what you describe and I did a broad back adjustment similar to http://blog.deer-and-doe.com/12985-fit-broad-back-adjustment/.  I ended up needing to add the shoulder dart.  It worked great, it is a tnt pattern for me now.

stephaniecan

Just coming back after Christmas holiday and first week back at work during our busy cycle :(. I'm ready to sew but feeling a bit overwhelmed, to be honest! I need to get going, however, so I should steal crazyquilter's "Stop thinking and sew!" mantra!

Just wanted to say oooh @indigotiger I am in love with your blouse and love your process explanations. Thank you for being so generous in sharing the specifics of your sewing.

crazyquilter

Thank you, ladies!  I knew I could come here and get some help.  KathrynT, I tried wearing the top for a couple of hours. As long as I didn't move around much it was OK, but even simple moving my arm forward caused the bind.  I did get a bit of a laugh from the look hubby was giving me.  He was relieved when I told him I was just trying out a pattern and this wasn't something I was planning on wearing.

indigotiger - I tried your solution with the yoke.  I added two inches.  It did relieve the binding, but I had a poof on my back that enhanced my rounded back, not an area I really want to call attention to.  I suspect the fact that I put my quickie pleats close to the center was the problem.  I see in your drawing you have them closer to the sides.  I will play around with this idea some more.  I added about two inches in width.  I may not have needed that much. I also want to wear the muslin again to make sure it does feel OK.  It doesn't help that this is a summery top and we're having cold weather.

I'm going to try your solution next, mahgret.  I'll draw the pattern out again tonight and try stitching one up tomorrow.  You mentioned that you needed the shoulder dart.  Do you remember how much you had to spread each side? Also, I'm not understanding this paragraph.

QuoteFirst, you'll need to determine the amount to add to your back bodice. On your muslin, slash two vertical lines where your shoulder blades are. Then ask someone to measure the opening of these slashes when you stand straight, in a natural posture, arms slightly toward the front.

I think I get where to slash, on either side of the spine, but not how long.

Thanks again,
Dawn


indigotiger

crazyquilter wrote:
Quoteindigotiger - I tried your solution with the yoke.  I added two inches.  It did relieve the binding, but I had a poof on my back that enhanced my rounded back, not an area I really want to call attention to.  I suspect the fact that I put my quickie pleats close to the center was the problem.  I see in your drawing you have them closer to the sides.  I will play around with this idea some more.  I added about two inches in width.  I may not have needed that much. I also want to wear the muslin again to make sure it does feel OK
I definitely recommend wearing an altered muslin for a bit to get a better idea if the changes made have the desired result. I know that when I do this particular alteration I usually add about 2 inches on either side, but I put the pleats no more than two or three inches at most from the armscye. which keeps the fullness where it is most useful. I think that the first time I tried this, I put the pleats in the center back, like is sometimes seen on men's shirts. I too decided that was not a good effect, but that the side pleats worked better...
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

mahgret

Crazyquilter, based on the size of the dart I would guess I added about an inch and a half on each side. I felt like trying to ease in an inch and a half extra over a shoulder seam would be noticeable and rage inducing.   I did not do the slashing, so I am not sure how long it would need to be, I just took a guess at how much I needed to add and went for it on my garment. 

Sew Ruthie Sews

Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

warpjr1965

My Elle pants are done! So simple, but I manage always to complicate things and drag them out. My serger had a fit when I basted a seam prior to serging. Sheesh. I had to pull out all those threads, and the basting thread, and re-do the seam. Sewing day with my group is next week, so I plan to cut out some projects so I can sit and serge away!
Wendy

crazyquilter

Thank you for the further explanation, Indigotiger.  I will take out the stitching and try again moving the pleats more to the side.  I may try a wider piece too. 

This helps a lot, Mahgret. Thank you.  I wondered about just guessing at how much to add. The slashing thing seems a bit complicated and then it requires someone else to help with the measuring. I think I will do that based on my experience with Indigotiger's method.

Way to go, Ruthie, finishing another garment.  I learned a new word from your post.  I enjoyed googling trews and reading about them. 

Good for you, Wendy!  I hate ripping serging, but I have learned that it's sometimes necessary.  Sewing day with a group sounds like so much fun.  How many are in your group?

stephaniecan

What a beautiful top, @mahgret! Great colour and shape.

Congrats, Wendy on getting the pants done!

Lisanne

Well Done Ruthie with the plaid pattern matching on your trews - I hope that will be a continuing source of pleasure   :heart:
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - comments on wardrobes, patterns, style, fit
https://uk.pinterest.com/sewingplums/ - style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - good basic sewing techniques
https://easyjackets.wordpress.com - no need for tailoring, unless you want to
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - Peggy Sagers sew-alongs

Turquoise

Quote from: indigotiger on January 16, 2020, 12:58:00 amI noticed that it felt different than most of the other melton, somehow "silkier"... which would make it feel wonderful against my neck... and then I noticed that it had a different mark on the selvedge:

Much to my surprise, I had a luscious piece of cashmere from Amicale Fabrics! Since the piece wasn't big enough to make an entire garment, I feel no qualms about using it to line my capelet; it will bring me a great deal of everyday pleasure as well as warmth.
What a lovely find @indigotiger  :) - that's going to feel super cozy.

@mahgret - Love your top, that colour looks fantastic on you.

@crazyquilter  - good luck with the muslins.  I'm really getting into working with multiple muslins now as a result of this SWAP - it feels good to be getting closer to what I like for me even if that means it's slower going.

@Sew Ruthie Sews - enjoy wearing your tartan trews - your pattern matching is fantastic and a vast improvement on your inspiration photo.  Thanks for the comment in the "rules" thread about 18 weeks SWAP - I think I will maybe knock out some of my tops soon so that I don't feel way behind on my SWAP. 

warpjr1965

Lots of nice progress! Mahgret, I too like your top color, so glad you've gotten a garment down.
Indigo, what a nice surprise! That cashmere will keep you cozy.
Ruthie, I always enjoy seeing what you put together with your collections!
Good luck too to all muslining up patterns.

I am still only one garment completed, but I have a pre made item in mind, have 2 garments cut and one in-process (I'm including my fur coat, I think it may be OK after all), and 3 ready to be cut and sewn. If the snow in my neck of the woods doesn't cancel my sewing meet up I should have a few garments completed by Sunday.
Wendy

Sew Ruthie Sews

@mahgret, wearing happy colours can give such a boost, go for it.
I'm really enjoying the red in my SWAP, its on the edge of being too bright for my colouring, so I added red lipstick yesterday when I wore my tartan trousers with a black top and red jacket - got a compliment from a lady at work :-)

@indigotiger, the cashmere lining for the collar will be soft, warm and luxurious. What a great use for a smaller piece of fabric.

I've been tired from work this week and not got very far with my next sewing project.
I think I put my last post on the rules thread by mistake, sorry about that, but it makes some sense there I guess.

I think the most challenging part of SWAP is keeping on for the long time period working on pieces that still fit with the plan.
Happily Indigotiger's rules this year are very flexible which allows for some bursts of creative detour whilst still sticking to the overall inspiration.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

dementedfairy

It's all coming along nicely isn't it?  I love wearing red too, and it DOES always get compliments- I think it cheers people up.
I've finally started sewing up the monster pile of cut out goodies- 2 linen skirts are hanging up before hemming, now on to some of the tops before I go into hibernation again!
Apparently I'm a quintessential Gemini- but I think that's a load of b.s. myselves...

KathrynT

January 18, 2020, 08:27:50 pm #230 Last Edit: January 18, 2020, 11:00:32 pm by KathrynT
I'm still on summer holidays and have sewn lots of things and still feeling motivated.  The only problem is I am struggling with the rules.  Isn't it funny how you think you get something and then later you have a realisation and think, No wait!  The one or 2 things must go with everything rule.  Initially I thought a white t-shirt and black pants would be a good start point and then I realised you can't wear a white t-shirt with any other top.

These are the thoughts going round and round in my head: 
Now I'm thinking a pair of black pants and a navy pair.  But is it still in the spirit if I would rarely wear a particular top with the navy pair and similarly for another top and the black pair.
I have a jacket made as a muslin that turned out surprisingly well, that would work, but I don't wear jackets at all with summer clothes...

I am definite that I don't want to make something that I would not wear to fit the rules and make the entry possible, but I do enjoy participating and the extra motivation.  At this point I think I will continue to sew and once I have remembered how to upload photos start my individual thread.  I am thinking of Summer to Autumn as the name of my thread.

Edited to add:
Hold the press!
I've had a great idea for a lightweight jacket that will go with everything.  I bought some very lovely boucle in Italy 6 years ago. It has been making my sad that I haven't used it yet. Perfect!

warpjr1965

Quote from: KathrynT on January 18, 2020, 08:27:50 pmIsn't it funny how you think you get something and then later you have a realisation and think, No wait!  The one or 2 things must go with everything rule.  Initially I thought a white t-shirt and black pants would be a good start point and then I realised you can't wear a white t-shirt with any other top.

Now I'm thinking a pair of black pants and a navy pair.  But is it still in the spirit if I would rarely wear a particular top with the navy pair and similarly for another top and the black pair.
 

Kathryn, I had the same problem initially! For simple rules, they are not so simple!  I also had the same worry about whether I really would wear garments in certain combinations, although they technically went together. I think everyone really has to make their own decision here. For me, I felt I was trying to force something to happen, which felt unnatural, so ultimately I changed my plan up a bit.

I got a good bit accomplished today, for me. I managed to sew up my pre-cut sweater (along the way the serger had another little fit about some elastic and decided to break a needle) and also a sweatshirt dress. I am very pleased with both, they need hems, but those are simple tasks I can accomplish during the week.

I have my serger all set up with Navy, so a la Ruthie I am going to get 2 more blue pieces done, then switch to white.
Wendy

luz clara

Oh Mahgret I love community festivals that celebrate fruits and vegetables! A lima bean festival! (Although it sounds like a sneaky way to get people to eat lima beans!) Did they have a Lima Bean Princess? A childhood friend was once "Miss Peaches and Cream" at a peach festival!
Luz Clara

Lisanne

Ruthie - what fun your nostalgic tee-shirt is  :applause2:
I hope you go far with the PR Bee this year  :thumbsup:
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - comments on wardrobes, patterns, style, fit
https://uk.pinterest.com/sewingplums/ - style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - good basic sewing techniques
https://easyjackets.wordpress.com - no need for tailoring, unless you want to
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - Peggy Sagers sew-alongs

stephaniecan

@mahgret and @Sew Ruthie Sews: Now those are great t-shirts.

I'm curious to see what you are going to do with those two tees, Mahgret.

Lisanne

Today at 12:22:08 pm #235 Last Edit: Today at 12:31:31 pm by Lisanne
perhaps I'm being unkind
but I think SWAP contestants might learn from a quick look at this gallery from the first round of the PR Sewing Bee :
https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=341
Obviously many of the contestants have not put even a moment's thought into how to make a good impression on people who are looking at their entry. . .  I do find that very odd. . .
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - comments on wardrobes, patterns, style, fit
https://uk.pinterest.com/sewingplums/ - style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - good basic sewing techniques
https://easyjackets.wordpress.com - no need for tailoring, unless you want to
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - Peggy Sagers sew-alongs