SWAP 2020 general discussion thread

[Turquoise]

Turquoise - working with scuba seems like it would definitely be a new technique for you. I have read that using "craft felt" yardage is a good alternative when making up a toile for working with leather, as it is similarly bulky and not very stretchy, I wonder if that would also work for a toile for your scuba fabric?

What do people think about polyester fleece fabric as muslin fabric for this?- one of the shops I sometimes buy fabric from has a batch of white seconds grade fleece at very low cost.

[Lisanne]

Do both fabrics have similar stretch ? as well as similar 'body' or 'stiffness' (modern pattern making books have a sequence of blocks for different amounts of stretch, as this greatly affects the fit and drape)

[sewsy]

I'm still ruminating about which direction to go in for my "Sideline SWAP". I've been thinking about using the premise of what French women wear as put forth in a YouTube video I saw recently. Then I saw the same kinds of pieces done by Whitney Luckenbill (TomKat Stitchery) for her DM. She made her a Jasika blazer in a black wool crepe, and it looked fabulous.

As for a new technique, I've been thinking about which or what, and a tiny thought about doing a self-drafted something or another crept up. I kind of dismissed it, but reading here about other sewists doing the same kind of thing has renewed my interest.

In fact, I happen to have several different pattern drafting systems, and have never used any of them for myself. Remember the popular "Bonfit" drafting system that Shirley Cunningham used in some of her broadcasts? I got the bodice and pant drafting templates on eBay years ago, and haven't looked at them once. Also, Glenda Sparlings' Sure Fit  pattern drafting system, including the pant draft template.

And, one I purchased fairly recently, Janet Pray's Pant Drafting System.

So, (I'm thinking of doing a self-drafted pant block) I'm considering trying one or two and making a pair or two of jeans. Just thinking.

eta. I also have the Connie Crawford Pant Drafting DVD and her Pattermaking text. Kinda shows which way I've been leaning for awhile now.

[stephaniecan]

Lisanne: Really interesting point about the drafting of blocks. I am one who hasn't had great success with that approach. I have done much better adjusting commercial patterns incrementally. I still have a lot to learn though. It's a good thing I like making toiles!

[stephaniecan]

All, I wish there were a "love" button rather than a like button. So many great ideas! To comment on recent posts:

Indigotiger: I love everything about your proposed theme! I wish I had thought of that.

Ginger: Fabulous name for a SWAP!

MahgretJust reading about your joy fiesta puts a smile on my face.

[indigotiger]

Putting on my "moderator" hat here, I probably should remind everyone, especially those new to SWAP, that it works best if we all comment here on the general discussion thread. Feel free to read what everyone is planning, of course! When you comment here, everyone gets to see it, and it adds to the conversation. If you just need to send someone a private message, you can do that by clicking on their avatar, and that option should show up

[treefrog]

Lovely to read through the individual threads this morning.  I'm very impressed by those who are going to draft their own blocks.  I did a bodice and sleeve block last year and a pants block the year before.  While I loved the process of drafting, fine tuning the fit was a fiddly process.  Now that I have the blocks done though, it saves me a heck of a lot of time.  For my challenge piece, I want to draft a camisole, similar to the Ogden.  The "new technique" will be learning how to deal with neckline and armhole darts that come into play when lowering the neckline.

 

[Turquoise]

Shout out to @mahgret and anyone else using the Craftsy class to draft a bodice sloper -  if you haven't already then please consider watching ALL of the Suzy Furrer bodice sloper class before starting to draft.  I had a go at drafting the front, then started on the back and hit a problem with the back waist darts.

I only have a 7" difference between my waist and low hip measurement and so her chart gives you a 3/8" waist dart width for a difference of 2-7".  When you come to draft the back she says to create back contouring of 3/8" and then when you draft the back waist dart to deduct the 3/8" back waist contouring to get the amount to draw in the back waist dart.  This would give a back dart of 0"! 

I went off to class discussion section to get help as I was confused as to what to do next and she tells people there to change the front dart to 3/4" in that case,  so that it is possible to have back waist dart of 3/8" and allow the side seams on front and back to match.

Since I suspect I'm not the only person who is has less than 8" difference in measurements of waist and low hip I feel the charts supplied for dart intake are confusing with her instruction in the video classes.  There is a category in the dart charts for a difference of 0-1" in the waist and hip measurement which gives the dart width as zero/no dart - so I don't understand why she doesn't cover this point about the back contouring more clearly for people who aren't the same shape as the standard dress forms.  For those using the "no dart" instruction from the chart, the back contouring would create a negative in the circumference!

Hope this helps someone else trying this process 

[Lisanne]

Not entirely meant as a joke - perhaps if people can give good evidence they have tried hard with a new technique but never got good enough results to use it for a garment - they should still be allowed to count it as their new technique 

[sewsy]

@Turquoise, thanks for the reminder about Suzy Furers' pattern drafting classes. I have a subscription to bluprint and will re-watch the pant draft class to see if it's something I'll try.

[mahgret]

Thanks for the heads up, Turquoise!  I am watching the whole thing now, but I am not sure I would have recognized the issue.  I am a little worried because I am very plus sized and over 6 feet tall.  I have used Wild Ginger pattern software in the past and at every step it asks me "are you sure" as if my measurements are not to be believed.  That causes me to think "uh oh" every time she says a number is "industry standard".  I am adding a backup technique to my SWAP plan, making a V-neck with binding instead of facing, which I have been avoiding for years.  It doesn't make sense for a CHoose Joy themed swap to cause me undue stress.

[Morzel]

Well, I've been away a lot in the last few weeks, working, entertaining my daughter during her autum school vacation etc., working around the house a lot -and come back here to find the rules up. How wonderful! Indigotiger, thank you for that simple and nice set of rules! Those really allow for a wonderful range of very individual collections.

@sewsy - thank you for pointing out TomKats videos/blog - I really enjoyed looking at some stuff there. What a busy woman sewing wise!

@Sew Ruthie Sews

My new technique is probably going to be learning to work with the silk fabric, or maybe welt pockets or front fly. I have a lot to choose from as I tend to avoid those tricky things.

I hear you there! Especially those welt pockets still cause fear.

@BinMI I wish you a speedy and good recovery!

@mahgret , @Turquoise  - looking forward to your drafting adventures. Do make muslins, as numbers alone don't make up the figure! (think elipse/circle with the same circumference, but different shapes) So I guess its first drafting, then draping...

@indigotiger - you mentioned the patchwork girl - thank you! I didn't even know Mr Baum wrote other stories of Oz world! So now I got some new books on my reading list. I found a 1914 film on youtube about the patchwork girl and had a good laugh - the Woozy looks exactly like a (modern) minecraft cat! Thanks for the fun.

@warpjr1965  a pink moto jacket sounds great! I have been wanting a moto jacket since a long time, but somehow just shy away from it... go for it!

@stephaniecan

That is so funny. I am trying to guess how many garments I could make with my stash and I am hoping it is fewer than 111!

That has me laughing and it is sooo true! 

@treefrog I love your croquis! You are always soo good in drawing them, a joy to see!

[Turquoise]

Good advice @Morzel thanks - I think I will definitely need to drape muslins of my drafting efforts.  I have a lot to learn but I've wanted to have a go for ages.  I'm hoping that persistence will pay off in the end .

[stephaniecan]

Hi Eva: Waving and agreeing! I think I come in under 111 but not sure by how much!

[stephaniecan]

Lisanne: I like your uniform!

I have sometimes also been a "uniform" person, and in some seasons more than others (e.g., in summer I often wear slim cigarette pants and a tailored shirt). Lately I've been wearing more varied outfits, however, and have been craving variety generally. It is useful to have an understanding of the organizing concept behind the wardrobe, however. Good point!

[Joyce P]

Thanks to Indigotiger and Dragon Lady for the "pinning" 

[indigotiger]

Lisanne - Your uniform looks both cozy and tidy, and I for one did not find your SWAP plans at all problematic, but rather quite practical. If everyone that begins, and all who finish, end up with clothing that fits seamlessly into their lives, then I will consider my time as moderator a success!

I thought that the article about "capsules, formulas, and uniforms" was very clear, though my own wardrobe has more what I would describe as a standard "recipe" closer to a formula than a uniform.

[Morzel]

I liked that article Lisanne mentioned also - never thought of those three different approaches, but it is true. Though I guess the uniform and formula persons could have a capsule in the end...

@Lisanne I think your SWAP approach rather sensible - and true to the original. They did multiples of really easy patterns. The goal was/is to finish and have something to wear (that you wear), not to 'shine' (though there's no reason one could not shine anyway). The same pattern can look soo different in different fabrics, with different details - as Sonya of 100 acts of sewing shows. And as to your uniform - I don't look that different in everyday life, just swap the blouse for a tshirt...

I am thinking ideas over for SWAP. I am missing attire for 'going out', some smart stuff to wear that would fit about any occasion that needs a bit more 'dressing up'. Myself and lots of friends turn 50 in the next few months, so there are a few occasion for that sort of attire. First I thought 'evening capsule', but realisticly I don't need 11 silk/velvet garments... and the full on evening is not me, anyway. So I rather think 'smart casual', I could stick to my usual garment types, but throw in the one or other very smart thing (I want a dark blue silk blouse, maybe velvet pants?), and so make most of the set useful in my regular life nonetheless.

So right now I am thinking about patterns, silhouette, garment types. E.g. I need a jacket (we always need jackets here, and that's the reason I can't dress up well right now: lacking an appropriate outer layer), but what length? One garment has to go with all the rest, will that work out? So I am going through my closet, trying on stuff, looking for good sewing pattern combinations to do a dress up and thinking about lengths, hemlines, the right silhouettes. Its fun!

[Medea]

Hi, it's the first time in years that I've missed the rules when they were published. But I've had a lot of other things going on in my life.
We've moved back to Sweden from south of France and it takes a lot of time to get in place.

But now I'm ready to think about my new wardrobe. I have to think about my theme and how I want to use it for my SWAP2020.
I'll be back!
Efwa - Medea

[Lisanne]

I thought that the article about "capsules, formulas, and uniforms" was very clear, though my own wardrobe has more what I would describe as a standard "recipe" closer to a formula than a uniform.

Your rules this year Indigotiger are so good because they can accommodate all these options 

[Philippa]

Those having problems with Suzy Furrer's drafting instructions may find this patternmaking source much clearer
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/blocks
I have gone full circle and decided that Kathleen Fasanella's advice -
https://fashion-incubator.com/how-we-make-patterns-in-real-life/
is the way forward for me; I now have a 2 dart dress bodice that fits perfectly (using Butterick B6515 which has separate pattern pieces for cup sizes) - and will eventually make a block from it. It needed a lot of work, but  the one alteration that made the most impact was getting the shoulder slope correct.   A jacket pattern is next.
I recommend using a 20" wide roll of lightweight tear-away machine embroidery stabiliser (I get this from Amazon) for tracing patterns, and I am using up a roll of curtain lining for making toiles; it drapes better than calico so wrinkles and drag lines are more visible.

[Turquoise]

Thanks @Philippa - really helpful info.  I've always done well altering Peggy Sager's patterns to fit me - so perhaps it would be more sane to create blocks from draping/altering existing patterns.

[CCL]

Thanks, Phillipa, I have always felt as if I was doing it all wrong because I have never taken the time to make a proper sloper. 

Generally I use parts of patterns that fit and mash them up. I do try to muslin for new patterns or at least make a first trial / practice piece in something besides the "good" fabric.  Even with tried and true patterns, I baste and try on and tweak at almost every step of the way. (Someone somewhere has a blog called: Sew Naked - that is apt description of the process for me!)

I always felt I was doing it wrong, but thought because of my relatively few fitting issues, I could get away with it. 

So again, thank you for the Fasanella link.

[CCL]

Not entirely meant as a joke - perhaps if people can give good evidence they have tried hard with a new technique but never got good enough results to use it for a garment - they should still be allowed to count it as their new technique 

Actually, also not meant entirely as a joke, this resonated  with me because I was considering "hand buttonholes" as my new technique, but knowing myself and my tendency to chicken out (Did snaps on the coat I made a couple of years ago), I switched to sewing silk as the new technique.  However, learning to make acceptable hand or bound buttonholes would be a more useful skill for me.  So I am still going to include both.

Well, maybe.

When IndigoTiger first posted the rules, I got all excited because it would give me a perfect excuse to line up all the garments I have fabric for and want to sew (tentatively, my inspiration phrase: "Quit dithering and sew. The fabric wants to be seen.")

Well, yesterday I sketched out what I was thinking, and realized that there were enough projects for the next ten years.  So I am having a rethink, but I don't want to buy any more fabric.

[Morzel]

...my inspiration phrase: "Quit dithering and sew. The fabric wants to be seen."

I love that!

I just sorted through my fabric closet. Did a bit of clean up - I was looking for sufficient jersey length for sweatpants, my daughter friend's birthday party is coming up. Found out there is some fabric I had forgotten about!  (does that mean I got too much fabric stash?!) On the other hand, it is like fabric shopping all over again, with nice stuff nonetheless! 

I found a beautiful silk fabric I bought ca. 4 years ago in Beijing, when there still was a fabric market around. It  is just the right colours and I think it will be my inspiration piece - from this to a whole collection of smart stuff to wear. I also found a UFO, a sheath dress I started sometime last year and it got packed away when we needed the living room (my sewing space) for something other and I forgot. I hope I can locate the sleeves, as is otherwise finished. But more importantly, the fit is great, so now I know I can use that pattern (I know at least where that is) for my  'smart set'.

Right now there are three different 'summer pants' patterns lying on the table (Harem pants from Pattern Emporium, Carrie pants from Sewoverit, Sommerhose N07 from Lillesol und Pelle). I am going to sew them up each in the same fabric, to see which pattern I like best. If things work out (and I look remotely good in one of them), I would like some nice pants suitable for going out in a nice, flowy fabric. So, preparing for SWAP!

[warpjr1965]

Have not done any sewing but I think really I have a good plan! My go with anything 2 will be 2 toppers/overs. Have patterns for both, fabric for the other.

Today I go on a fabric field trip with my sewing group to find suitable pants/bottom fabric and linen for a grain line Farrow. I am super excited for this whole SWAP. Feels more cohesive than the last one.

[Turquoise]

When IndigoTiger first posted the rules, I got all excited because it would give me a perfect excuse to line up all the garments I have fabric for and want to sew (tentatively, my inspiration phrase: "Quit dithering and sew. The fabric wants to be seen.")

Well, yesterday I sketched out what I was thinking, and realized that there were enough projects for the next ten years.  So I am having a rethink, but I don't want to buy any more fabric.

@CCL I bet a lot of us are in that camp - I know I am.  The ideas and inspirations always seem to outpace the time available to do them and apart from when I am sewing knits I am always a lot slower at sewing than I think I will be 

[stephaniecan]

CCL, Eva, Turquoise:

Your comments all resonated with me so much! I sat down last night and wrote out a list of *just* the fabrics that I have in my mind (as in, I didn't even open any bins, where I am sure I would discover things I have forgotten about), and wrote down items that I have already paired mentally with the existing fabric or yarn. I got to 25 garments already within just a few minutes. It's exactly as you say, Turqouise - the ideas and inspiration outpace the time in which to make the things and I underestimate how slow I am at making things.

Like you, CCL, I don't want to buy any fabric. New ideas keep on coming to mind and I think "there's a better fabric out there!" but I don't want to give myself permission to do too much of that. I think I need to give myself the creative challenge of using what I have and making nice things with the resources at hand. When I was in university and poor, a long time ago, I used to painstakingly unravel old sweaters (even commercial ones) and knit them up into new garments. I was probably at my happiest in my creative life then, even though the resources at hand were not that great or extensive! I keep on reminding myself that that is who I am - resourceful and independent. I don't need to constantly buy stuff to be happy. In fact, it's the opposite!

Eva: I loved reading about your plan to make smart stuff for a series of upcoming birthdays! First, we are of the same vintage . Also, I also need some dressier stuff but of the type that you mentioned - more smart chic/casual that is still comfortable and warm. Long gone are the days of making ball gowns (which I did once or twice in my twenties, when I still attended big parties). I feel an inkling to copy your plan somewhat!
 

[stephaniecan]

Wendy: Great that your plan is feeling more cohesive this year! Yay!

[stephaniecan]

Keep on forgetting to say things! Grasshopper, I like your idea of embellishment to add special touches to practical garments. Your job sounds very interesting. I work on a team that is quite traditional, but in the financial and statistics sphere. The dress code is generally blue and grey or one appears a bit too out there. I try to add nice touches by mixing patterns and texture, however. Keeps me sane! I hope you find your perfect mix of suitable and pretty.

[Lisanne]

I got to 25 garments already within just a few minutes.

I do this too.  For some time now, I've had a 'possible projects' note, where I write all the project ideas that come to me each day - never less than one, often many. . .  That helps me keep all the 'creativity distractions', or running in a 100 directions at once, somewhat under control.

Quite separately I keep my 'real life' diary of the step-by-step process for what I am actually making.  IRL I get quite confused if I try to work on more than one project at a time 

[stephaniecan]

That's great, Lisanne! That's exactly what I need: to keep the creative urges under control. I never understand why it is that I get excited about something, buy the materials, and then suddenly a month or two later it is no longer "good enough" to be top of mind. I'm trying to calm that mentality. Will also keep a diary with more detailed project notes - I fail abjectly on that point. Thanks!

[Lisanne]

I never understand why it is that I get excited about something, buy the materials, and then suddenly a month or two later it is no longer "good enough" to be top of mind.

Yes, these days I have a strict rule that I must wait at least 24 hours before buying something, whether project fabrics and supplies or RTW.

I do have a safety pressure release valve of allowing myself to be less strict about buying patterns.  They are not a very expensive addiction 

Well perhaps I should be more honest and admit that I also have some transparent project boxes, with a 'must make this' pattern and notions in each box.  I bought a pack of six boxes at first, and instantly had to buy another six    I keep those boxes in front of my nose, and they have had the salutary effect of making me realise how ridiculous my buying habits had become. . .

I didn't allow myself to tidy up before taking this photo. . .

and I would never have posted a photo of what my projects area looked like before I bought those boxes. . .

[stephaniecan]

I never understand why it is that I get excited about something, buy the materials, and then suddenly a month or two later it is no longer "good enough" to be top of mind.

Yes, these days I have a strict rule that I must wait at least 24 hours before buying something, whether project fabrics and supplies or RTW.

You made me smile with your boxes, Lisanne. I have a similar system of accountability set up in my living room.

This year I've been really good. I bought a couple of items of clothing in the spring and then nothing more. I've only purchased two pieces of fabric. In the last month or two in particular I have started really confronting the urge that I get to buy something new for my crafts and then walking away. I feel that this is really important. It is so true that when you step back and think a bit the urge often passes. And now you've introduced me to pattern buying as an alternative...

I also have to thank Philippa, as I've been thinking about her comments about pattern drafting . I've tried it once or twice and had OK success but nothing great. I have a very small torso but a large bust, sloped shoulders, etc., and I found that trying to build a block from scratch was harder than it looked. I've done better with commercial patterns that I've edited a few times. I have a good skirt block and a fairly good bodice block for a fitted bodice. I've never tried to establish a sleeve block. The comments here have been very helpful and encouraging! 

[mahgret]

Now I am at a loss what to do.  I bought most of the series of Suzy Furrer classes on Bluprint (back when it was Craftsy).  I guess in the meantime I have been doing what is discussed in the Kathleen Fassanella article linked above, making it work with existing patterns.  I mostly use patterns by 5oo4 patterns and also StyleArc. I was feeling like drafting my own would give me better fit but now I am not so sure.  If all the work is likely to not give the results I hope for, maybe it is not worth it.  I wouldn't want to do it just because I listed it as my challenge.

Also, apologies to Turquoise, I accidently posted this to your thread and can't find how to delete the message.