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SWAP 2020 general discussion thread

Started by Lisanne, October 30, 2019, 05:35:57 am

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stephaniecan

No stress, @warpjr1965. I'm sure you'll get those items sewn up quite soon.

I'm only on my second item, myself, but I was very pleased with my progress this weekend in adjusting two patterns and cutting out a toile for my coat (as well as cutting out a silk blouse as my second official item)! Slow and steady wins the race, as they say.

That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

sewordinary


stephaniecan

Thanks, @sewordinary! Your brighter fabrics for your upcoming capsule are terrific!
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

dementedfairy

Struggling to focus due to some pretty strong pain meds, but now have 2 skirts, 2 tops, and 2 shirts completed.  That's all the black sewing done, now to re-thread and get cracking on the white stuff.
Loving watching everyone's progress!
Apparently I'm a quintessential Gemini- but I think that's a load of b.s. myselves...

AnnetteB

@Sew Ruthie Sews
I really like your new shirt Ruthie and especially the musical fabric. I wouldn't be able to help myself and walk around all day with music in my steps....
Annette
Queensland Australia

warpjr1965

Ruthie I do like your musical note shirt!!

Zero sewing so far this week. But I am meeting in person with my sewing group, and will spend all day sewing up the items I cut out so far, and can hem up the items i've already (mostly) sewn. Hopefully I'll have 5 finished garments by Sunday!
Wendy

boppingbeth

I love the sewing with out a plan comment.  This is my life lol. I suddenly went from sewing to buying fabric.  Grey Lycra single knit and cherry rpl, along with pieces for bathing suits and exercise gear, neither of which are in my swap.

On the good side, I also started watching the how to use a cover stitch machine class on Craftsy. Cover stitch is my new skill.  I've had that machine for at least ten year and never used it.  Time to conquer my fear and try it.

stephaniecan

Love the musical shirt, @Sew Ruthie Sews! It's subtle but fun at the same time. I would wear it with just about anything, but I like mixes of pattern and texture. The buttons are a nice touch.

I'm finding it fun this year to drift a bit and make things I like that don't make classic capsules. The rules require that one or two garments go with everything else in the collection, but not necessarily that everything in the collection go together, if I remember correctly, which is a lovely freedom to have. That said, I like to try unusual combinations in any case. I'm enjoying experimenting with colours I don't usually wear all that much: orange, yellow, some shades of green. I find I really enjoy colour and should always wear it, instead of only as accents to more neutral greys and navys. It gives me a lift.
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

Morzel

Finally I got some time to comment here on the thread - I have been reading (and commenting to myself), but never had time to type something... I only do so at my home computer with a real keypad to it, as I hate to type single fingered on a tablet or phone...

@Sew Ruthie Sews : Sewing with a colour scheme only is more or less all I did for the last few years - it really is a sort of plan, I think. And fives a lot of freedom of working on your SWAP without feeling too restricted, getting bored. You´ve got quite a collection already! The latest addition, the musical shirt - are you going to wear it for choir sessions? It is great. Classic. Love the buttons on that shirt!

@stephaniecan : I was struck by the unusual pockets on your shirt and instantly liked them A LOT!  :D I also have two shirts hanging here with only buttons amiss... the least favourite task. Will do today.

@dementedfairy : Classic shirts with beautiful buttons (like the non-roundness of them) - and a hidden button placket. Never tried such a one, what a good idea.

@sewordinary : Your first item is so clean and crisp! And those latest fabric choices - yummy colours!

@Susan in Saint John : I sewed the same Silhouette pattern a few years back. Interesting enough, I never thought about how to do the button holes as I used snaps (like Kam snaps). The pattern (again) is a great example of her bad picture choices on pattern envelopes - the blouse is a favourite of mine because of the great design detail, but is out of print- it looks outdated on the envelope.

@mahgret : Love your mantra. Love the pictures of fabric with the corresponding dish on top! The latest shirt is wonderful! It is a beautiful fabric and fits you so well.

@boppingbeth : Dresses! What fun. The black one looks very sophisticated! And just start on that coverstitch. It is less scary than it seems. But do remember to tie off those threads - otherwise the unraveling will start after washing... (ask how I know)

@LillieT : going the same path here, I also need some smart clothes for celebrations/official events/smart events. Looking forward to seeing your collection.

@warpjr1965 : so happy to hear about the already much worn pants of your SWAP. It is so satisfying. Did you get sewing done with your friends? But the, you have already quite a few items done, so no worries anyway.

@KathrynT : Soo many items already sewn! Great progress. How are you doing on your new technique? AC or CC?

@indigotiger : Your sewing is more artwork - beautiful things you make for yourself!

@crazyquilter : how are you getting along with the top pattern? With tops?

@Medea : you are probably busy with your fabric shop now? It is so exciting, I wish you all the best!!


I hope all of you are sewing a bit here and there. If not, don't get discouraged by not sewing. Even sewing a once in a while for yourself is rewarding!



Eva

Morzel

So, I did a bit of sewing for SWAP and quite some patternwork. Did not start the velvet pants, though - too scared until now. :embarassed:

I struggle a bit with my SWAP - I wanted something smart, but find that my choices veer towards casual.  8) Trying to get this to work... in the end, it is just my personal defintion: what do I wear to a friends big party, or to theater, or out to dinner, or to an official appointement...
Eva

KathrynT

I'm enjoying everyone's updates on their SWAPs.
 
Unfortunately, what I suspected would happen has happened.  My pace of sewing went form one extreme to the other once the summer holidays finished.
 
I did do some sewing last weekend and started my french jacket.  I cut the fabric and lining and quilted and assembled the back.  I had great plans for a trim from frayed fabric.  It's really interesting fabric with a variety of different green threads in one direction and pink in the other.  I was going to remove the pink to get a green fringe and use the pink to make a central braid.  The little sample looked gorgeous.  Unfortunately, I had to use every little scrap to cut the main pieces.  Not enough for a front facing so I thought a lapel was not possible.  Yesterday I had a great idea of putting a seam on the lapel fold line and flipping the lining and fabric along the line.  I started with quilting the front and then realised I had forgotten the silk organza in the middle, so I stopped there.  I'll have to have another try when I'm not tired and have the energy for unpicking.

sewordinary

February 16, 2020, 05:02:56 am #291 Last Edit: February 16, 2020, 05:09:35 am by sewordinary
Trying to catch up with everyone's progress
@GraceNZ - love your classic capsule, navy red white and black are my fave capsule colours!

@Morzel - looking forward to the velvet pants, they sound really great for evening wear, lush yet understated.

@Sew Ruthie Sews I understand what you mean about needing some plainer pieces, it's so much more fun to sew with prints and florals!

@dementedfairy lovely details on your shirt!

@KathrynT good idea to cut and flip the lapel front fabric and lining!

CCL

February 16, 2020, 06:40:31 am #292 Last Edit: February 16, 2020, 07:18:26 am by CCL
I AM on my tablet (and already lost my post once, so I am just going to quote Morzel and say "Ditto!")

Did want to add, Mahgret, that one day when I was feeling rather low, I saw all your lovely fabric choices with their corresponding Fiestaware pieces and they made me smile and cheered me up immensely.
Quote from: Morzel on February 15, 2020, 11:31:18 pmFinally I got some time to comment here on the thread - I have been reading (and commenting to myself), but never had time to type something... I only do so at my home computer with a real keypad to it, as I hate to type single fingered on a tablet or phone...

@Sew Ruthie Sews : Sewing with a colour scheme only is more or less all I did for the last few years - it really is a sort of plan, I think. And fives a lot of freedom of working on your SWAP without feeling too restricted, getting bored. You´ve got quite a collection already! The latest addition, the musical shirt - are you going to wear it for choir sessions? It is great. Classic. Love the buttons on that shirt!

@stephaniecan : I was struck by the unusual pockets on your shirt and instantly liked them A LOT!  :D I also have two shirts hanging here with only buttons amiss... the least favourite task. Will do today.

@dementedfairy : Classic shirts with beautiful buttons (like the non-roundness of them) - and a hidden button placket. Never tried such a one, what a good idea.

@sewordinary : Your first item is so clean and crisp! And those latest fabric choices - yummy colours!

@Susan in Saint John : I sewed the same Silhouette pattern a few years back. Interesting enough, I never thought about how to do the button holes as I used snaps (like Kam snaps). The pattern (again) is a great example of her bad picture choices on pattern envelopes - the blouse is a favourite of mine because of the great design detail, but is out of print- it looks outdated on the envelope.

@mahgret : Love your mantra. Love the pictures of fabric with the corresponding dish on top! The latest shirt is wonderful! It is a beautiful fabric and fits you so well.

@boppingbeth : Dresses! What fun. The black one looks very sophisticated! And just start on that coverstitch. It is less scary than it seems. But do remember to tie off those threads - otherwise the unraveling will start after washing... (ask how I know)

@LillieT : going the same path here, I also need some smart clothes for celebrations/official events/smart events. Looking forward to seeing your collection.

@warpjr1965 : so happy to hear about the already much worn pants of your SWAP. It is so satisfying. Did you get sewing done with your friends? But the, you have already quite a few items done, so no worries anyway.

@KathrynT : Soo many items already sewn! Great progress. How are you doing on your new technique? AC or CC?

@indigotiger : Your sewing is more artwork - beautiful things you make for yourself!

@crazyquilter : how are you getting along with the top pattern? With tops?

@Medea : you are probably busy with your fabric shop now? It is so exciting, I wish you all the best!!

I hope all of you are sewing a bit here and there. If not, don't get discouraged by not sewing. Even sewing a once in a while for yourself is rewarding!

stephaniecan

@Morzel , @CCL so happy to see you back, as I was wondering where you had both gotten to. I also say "Ditto" to everything Morzel wrote (Eva: You are always so great at picking out important points re. everyone's work). Waving at everyone else as well!

Eva, I was thinking about your comment about things turning casual when you think you are aiming for "smart." To my eye, although focused on casual items, your collections always look "smart," because they are always well-fitted and well-sewn and well-coordinated. Something my partner always says to me (in Italy, where they definitely know how to dress to the nines), is that it is more elegant to wear simple items (even casual things like jeans, with a nice sweater), but with nice details, than to force oneself into evening wear that is not comfortable or necessarily appropriate. I'm sure you will find your middle ground. I also tend to gravitate to clothes that are nice but not too fancy. I had my "fancy" days when I was young, but I find now that I want to be elegant while being warm and comfortable, too. For me that usually means pants of some kind and maybe dressing up just means a silk blouse or a jacket and a brooch.:) I rarely enjoy wearing skirts and dressy tops that aren't warm. Love the idea of the velvet trousers though so I hope you do make those!!

@CCL: Looking at Mahgret's joyful colours and plan also give me a lift. I hope you are OK. I have had a low winter myself, so SWAP is something to give me a lift.

That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

warpjr1965

Loving everyone's progress!!

I did make it to the sewing meetup yesterday and finished (mostly) 5 items, all of which would be fine for SWAP: 3 variations of Jalie 2805, and 2 variations of the Fancy Tiger Wanderlust Tee, which I am now in LOVE with. All need hemming, but that is small stuff.

I may sew up the fleece hoodie that I just had no time or brain cells for yesterday. Oh, I managed to make 3 mistakes on one of the shirts: sewed neck band inside out. Fixed it, then sewed it backwards on the body, fixed it and then sewed it inside out!! Then I quit that and realized I was hungry so ate lunch. Sewed a whole lot better after that!
Wendy

stephaniecan

I'm really enjoying being able to check in and see what people are up to. Nice to see new or quieter voices as well: Interesting theme, @Noum and gorgeous photos @GraceNZ for the Santorini SWAP!
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

CCL

Stephanie:  re your question about the cuffs on the silk blouse - I'd go for the silk organza - and since you've done so much hand sewing on the blouse already, it would be consistent... and in my opinion, just a little more couture than the fusible.  But of course, just my two cents.

GraceNZ

Everyone's SWAPs look fantastic- clearly I have found them inspiring ;)

Stephanie: I would be worried about the fusible bubbling under the silk, so I second silk organza for the cuffs. The shirt looks amazing.
More details about everything on my blog.

https://sewingismyhappyplace.wordpress.com

stephaniecan

Thanks, @CCL , @GraceNZ: I bought some fine fusible over the weekend, but I agree that it would be a shame to not go whole hog when I have come this far! Now I need to dig into the stash to find some organza in a suitable colour. A few years back I bought a bunch of different shades of organza and every now and then I come across a piece and wonder, "What garment did I have in mind when I bought this?!"

@CCL Your coat looks beeeeaaautiful! I love it. I may have some future questions about the interfacing on my upcoming coat project. I have some hair canvas and am quite keen to use some traditional tailoring techniques, but was also wondering if I should use fusible for the facings and a smaller piece of hair canvas around the collar, or just do the whole thing the traditional way. :) I've read so much about jacket tailoring in the past and really have not done any. I'm looking forward to this.
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

CCL

February 20, 2020, 06:22:26 am #299 Last Edit: February 20, 2020, 06:28:00 am by CCL
Stephanie - even a white or black might not look too bad - mostly  darkening or lightening the green.  Colors might change the hue of the green.  You are smart to make up a couple samples to see what you are most happy with. GraceNZ, I hadn't even thought about the bubbling...you are right.  Someone here at Stitchers' Guild turned me on to the quality fusibles at Fashion Sewing Supply and I haven't looked back since.  Fzxdoc also suggested Apple Annie's for a very lightweight fusible for block fusing interfacing. I bought some for the pink jacket I am hoping to make and it looks wonderful, but I haven't actually used it yet.

Stephanie, also thank you for the nice comments on the in progress coat.  I am feeling a little more positive about it today.  I ended up doing a good bit of the understitching by hand (back neck, top and bottom of fronts), which I hadn't planned on.  I rechecked sleeve length, and though I trimmed a bit too much of one, I think I am going to be all right.

Like many of us, I have a good number of books on tailoring, but I keep going back to my Singer Tailoring jackets and coats.  If you don't have it, it might be worth looking into.  It shows three methods, traditional tailoring, machine, and "modern" - which has the added benefit of letting you see and compare the different techniques.

Because of your question about wigan-precut bias canvas basically - (a year ago now?), I have been more conscious of where I use it and why.  I will try to add that info to my Flicker album on the coat and not clutter up the discussion here.

Mahgret, your rehearsal dinner fabric is beautiful - it's definitely fiesta ware red!  A rolled hem looks so elegant in chiffon.

Okay,this was way too much typing on a tablet. I will correct typos later!

Morzel

@Noum - I am with you on No.4!! It has been raining so much these past weeks (months), and I also feel I always need something rainproof to go out is essential. No wool winter coat for me in this part of the world...

@CCL how frustrating to not find the order of sewing practical. Hope you will come through, though.

I myself have been fiddling about with a "new technique", bagging a lining as recommended by the book "Jackets for real people". I think I got it figured out with scraps, but the actual bagging has to wait until some time next week. First off to work again for almost a week and then I have to put in those feared welt pockets (yes, the goal this SWAP is to learn something!) and to add a roll line to the lapel (also a new technique). I did use this bagging a lining technique in one jacket before, 8 years ago, (only did a lined jacket once since then, doing it differently then), and it left me satisfied but still a bit confused. So this time around, I take notes (about where to put what size of seam allowance, for example; which bit to sew first, etc.) and am planning on sewing a second jacket, so I get it down once and for all.

So, @indigotiger , I find that your innocent little goal of "using a new to you technique" really get me out of a hiding hole: I never like lining a jacket (only did three lined ones in 14 years of sewing now) and apart from one jacket always had help doing it. I am determined to come to terms with welt pockets. I will tackle scary fabric (slippery silk and velvet). And maybe I am brave enough to even start on complicated lapels? Up to now I am doing shawl collars for a reason... as I said, I need to take notes of my own, to get the thought process down and simplified. And when I do this, I got to go about the new technique and do it several times, as this really helps. I used to not like sewing  a front fly of pants - now I can do it without even thinking too much about it. That's where I want to get with those welt pockets and the bagging the lining!

Have a nice sewing weekend, everyone!
Eva

stephaniecan

Thanks @CCL for your thoughts! I'm glad to hear that you are feeling better about the coat project.

I was thinking about these issues while daydreaming today and I realized that I'm keen to do some traditional tailoring so I will do that this time. That said, I will look up the Singer book you mentioned.

PS I found some pale pink organza that I think will work well for the cuffs of the blouse. Will report back when done.
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

stephaniecan

Eva @Morzel: I nodded when I read what you said about indigotiger's plan getting you out of a "hiding hole." I have the same issue with jackets and coats in particular. I'm finally making a coat after saying I would for ages. :) I hope I survive the plaid pattern matching!
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

stephaniecan

Wow - cool printing, @indigotiger . I also like that tower placket tutorial. I had to laugh because I have made a lot of tower plackets in that I have made a lot of shirts, but last night I struggled with a version of a tower placket on my silk shirt. The silk was really causing me some grief. :)
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

stephaniecan

That is beautiful sewing, @indigotiger. What an attractive shirt. I love it
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

warpjr1965

Indigotiger, that is indeed nice sewing!
Noum, I do like the crushed velvet cardigan, looks luscious and I love the colors!

I have lost some mojo, after the sewing extravaganza of last week. I need to tidy up the sewing area again, and then I think i'll pick up some steam.
Wendy

dementedfairy

So many beautiful, detailed collections appearing!
I seem to have racked up 9 of my planned items, but not even started on trousers or waistcoat, which should be the star of the show...too many choices!
Loving all your subtle details Indigotiger
Apparently I'm a quintessential Gemini- but I think that's a load of b.s. myselves...

CCL

Stephanie, if you are interested, I just did a quick search for the Singer Tailoring book. Pricing seems to around $3 to $5 for used books. Here's a link to one (as some reviews below the sales blurb might be also useful in determining if you want to pick one). 

Used book.

I just wanted to add that when I putting double welts on a jacket several years ago, I found the instructions in the Singer book really helpful.  I also do regular single welt pockets using their instructions.  In the past for other wool jackets etc. I have taped the roll line, pad-stitched under collar.   But not this time!

On the current coat, I was aiming to be less of a traditionalist - so I fused front interfacing, didn't add a back stay (I am keeping my fingers crossed that the full interfaced back yoke will help the coat keep its shape and hang appropriately and started attaching the lining by machine but bailed as I didn't the shoulder pads on the outside the lining.  Pulled out the Singer Sewing book again for some refreshers on sleeve lining attachment and how to use canvas (I used wigan) for sleeve and coat hems. 

stephaniecan

February 22, 2020, 12:31:17 pm #308 Last Edit: February 22, 2020, 12:59:43 pm by stephaniecan
@CCL That is very kind of you! Thanks. I will pick up a copy of the book. I could definitely use help with welts, in the minimum!

I think this time I will go fully traditional as I want to learn. I also enjoy hand sewing. We will see how this goes. I could use some sewing adventure right now to distract me from personal preoccupations. :)

ACK: Updated to say that I looked up an Amazon review while looking for a second-hand copy, and if this review is correct I already have this book!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R38HSL84MTQ07L/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=0865732426
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

Morzel

@CCL : I rather like the look of that BEAUTIFUL coat without buttons or with the dark ones. Without buttons (and I guess with big snaps sewn to the inside?) there is always the question of the facing not anchored to the front if no buttons sewn on and sometimes this distorts the front edge... what are you thinking about?

I am happy with my progress today: I sewed single welt pockets to my little jacket (I will practise the process a bit more but am very content) and bagged the lining. Trying to decide wether to edgestitch the front and lapel... but otherwise only buttonholes and buttons left. So, this jacket is of brown wool, not really what I wanted to incorporate in SWAP, but is made from left over wool of my Tania culotte. So this is a nice suit comobo and the jacket was my trial run for a blue one that is ment for SWAP. Getting a bit more confident with this jacket thing!
Eva

CCL

February 26, 2020, 03:51:18 pm #310 Last Edit: February 26, 2020, 03:56:38 pm by CCL
Quote from: Morzel on February 26, 2020, 12:44:30 pm@CCL : I rather like the look of that BEAUTIFUL coat without buttons or with the dark ones. Without buttons (and I guess with big snaps sewn to the inside?) there is always the question of the facing not anchored to the front if no buttons sewn on and sometimes this distorts the front edge... what are you thinking about?

Morzel, Oh thank you.  Coming from you that means a lot to me, as you are so talented.  And of course, you nailed my dilemma! I have been trying to think of ways to anchor the front.  I am not keen on using snaps (I did that on my blue coat a couple years ago and I still feel as if I was cheating!)  I might end up catch stitching (on the inside) the facing to the front - I think I can do it without having to remove the lining.  I really like the plain front, but may end up doing the buttonholes anyway and putting on the squiggle buttons because I like that look as well.  I am surprised a bit by how much I already love this coat.
   
Quote from: Morzel on February 26, 2020, 12:44:30 pmI am happy with my progress today: I sewed single welt pockets to my little jacket (I will practise the process a bit more but am very content) and bagged the lining. Trying to decide wether to edgestitch the front and lapel... but otherwise only buttonholes and buttons left. So, this jacket is of brown wool, not really what I wanted to incorporate in SWAP, but is made from left over wool of my Tania culotte. So this is a nice suit comobo and the jacket was my trial run for a blue one that is ment for SWAP. Getting a bit more confident with this jacket thing!

Yay on the welt pockets - You might want to edge stitch.   I ended up doing machine and hand edge stitching on the red coat.  Happy that I did now.

stephaniecan

It is a lovely coat, @CCL

Great looking leggings @indigotiger
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

Morzel

My sewing is not taking a straight path... instead of moving on to the SWAP jacket after having completed my trial run, I decided to do more work concerning those velvet pants. Up to now I had two pants patterns to turn to: a wider legged pant (24cm lower circumference) with a looser fit at the top for e.g. linen pants, and a close fitting jeans pattern (20cm). Both patterns don't seem right for the velvet - the jeans pattern feels too close fitting for a fabric like velvet, and the velvet seems too stiff for the wider legged pants pattern. So I created an in-between pattern, with 22cm circumference and also an in-between fit in the upper section. I muslined it with some stiffer curtain fabric, and as I am still shying away from moving towards the velvet, I decided to sew it up in corduroy first. Got some black in stash (yeah for stash using!)...
Eva

dementedfairy

@CCL I am LOVING that red coat without the buttons [unusual for me]  Just a thought if you don't like snaps [I don't either] what about fur hooks?  They are like fancy trouser bars and sort of click into place, quite secure and neat.
Apparently I'm a quintessential Gemini- but I think that's a load of b.s. myselves...

KathrynT

CCL, I know you said you don't like snaps, but what about the really large ones? I made a coat for my daughter a few years ago and attached the over sized snaps with embroidery thread (6 strands) and stitched through both layers so it made a hexagon on the outside. They were decorative,  but didn't detract from the clean lines.
Your coat is really gorgeous!