• Welcome to Stitcher's Guild Reloaded. Please login or sign up.
November 11, 2019, 03:01:00 pm

News:

The gallery still isn't working right now.  I'm working on it.


The pre-2020 SWAP jacket challenge

Started by CCL, October 12, 2019, 12:40:44 pm

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

CCL

October 12, 2019, 12:40:44 pm Last Edit: October 15, 2019, 11:31:48 am by CCL
Last year we did a dress challenge... but I felt somehow that left some folks out who don't do dresses and might want to participate.

So, what if this year we do a "jacket" challenge?  Now, jacket could be any top garment that has sleeves and opens in front and is worn over another item.  That would exclude vests, but not shirts.   I'd still like to include the requirement that there be one new thing involved - new pattern; new type of fabric (such as if you've never sewn velvet, using velvet for the jacket could be the one new thing); new technique (setting sleeves using wigam); new to you construction, such as a welt pocket, cut on front band.  The idea being as this challenge is an opportunity to grow a new skill.

If that doesn't appeal to folks, we could go back to the "dress challenge."

Anyway, appreciate folks thoughts and if there is enough interest, I would be willing to sponsor again.

indigotiger

I would be up for participating in either a jacket challenge or another dress challenge, as I have both of those garments in my ongoing wardrobe sewing plan. Thanks for being willing to start this again!
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

sewsy

October 12, 2019, 01:21:11 pm #2 Last Edit: October 12, 2019, 04:21:40 pm by sewsy
CCL, guess what? Just recently, when the new McCalls fall patterns came out, I spied a coatdress pattern that I've been keen to get. Since JA's hasn't had the McCall patterns on sale at a price I felt like paying, I've had to wait a bit for them to get to a (ahem) lower price point.

Which, as it turns out, was a good thing. I've had a bit of time to ruminate about the coatdress, I've always liked the silhouette.  I took a look around to see if the McCall pattern and maybe a few other (older) patterns that might be gotten on ebay.

After I got thinking about OOP patterns, I was reminded of a coatdress that I'd seen in an independent fabric store years ago. It was made by a woman named Ilsa, a sewing instructor; and I wanted dearly to study with her. She'd given up teaching, saying that students didn't want to take the time needed to craft well made garments.

I went over and over that garment, trying to glean everything I could as to how it was constructed. It was made out of a navy wool that had multi-colored pinstripes. I remember how expertly the collar stripes matched the back of the dress, how the seam allowances were so thin, I couldn't feel them, and how beautifully the sleeves were set into the armscyes. ABsolutely NO puckering.

I tried to find the Vogue pattern based on the drawing I'd seen on the front of the pattern that was pinned onto the dress, but no go. I did, however, come to a decision.

I'm going to try my hand at making as good a coatdress as I remember Ilsa's was. Honestly, it kinda feels like a graduation test of some sort.

And then, while watching the RR331 video of Ralph Ruccis' new atelier got me to thinking about "new" stylings. I'd been thinking about just using a double breasted suit jacket and lengthening it for a coatdress. Then, how about a moto jacket pattern lengthened to dress length? Just (coincidentally) happened upon a goodly amount of black lightweight woven wool (it was gifted) that will do very nicely, I think.

I've decided that I'm gonna do two. One a more traditional coatdress, (hopefully) ala Ilsa; and one a more modern take on a coatdress, using the Lisette moto jacket pattern that I happen to have in the pattern stash and previously made up for middle DD.

So! I'm in! Except to say that my "jackets" ;) will be a bit longer than normal, if that's alright? :)

Here's a picture of the Butterick/Lisette 6169:

Here's the McCall pattern that I plan to pick up soon:

Or maybe this one from ebay, an OOP Vogue:

I'm thinking that with the Lisette, I'll eliminate the front slash pockets, and add them to the side seams at the hip or a bit below and add a  kickpleat to the  center back seam. With the more traditional McCall or Vogue, I sort of like the front of the Vogue and the back of the McCall. I don't want a lot of seaming in the back, I may wind up frankenpatterning the both of them.

Lisanne

Hmm - my next planned garment is a kimono-style jacket - but the whole point of it is that it requires absolutely no new skills whatever  :D
Good Luck to everyone who does take part  :thumbsup:
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - comments on wardrobes, patterns, style, fit
https://uk.pinterest.com/sewingplums/ - style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - good basic sewing techniques
https://easyjackets.wordpress.com - no need for tailoring, unless you want to
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - Peggy Sagers sew-alongs

warpjr1965

Well as it turns out, I have a vest, dress, and jacket in my plans!
I feel very confident that I can finish the dress I have chosen in a reasonable amount of time.

I have never made a jacket however. A jacket challenge could be just the push I need to get it going!
Wendy

Noum

I just ordered fabric for a jacket, so definitely in for a jacket challenge!

CCL

Dear Stitchers' Guild Friends:

Thanks Noum and everyone else who weighed in.

I am willing to do this - let's make it a "jacket / topper" that opens in front and has sleeves.  Needs to include one new to you thing: technique, type of fabric, pattern etc. (Lisanne - is the kimona style jacket pattern new to you?   ;D )

Two groups - Group 1 - Beginner to Intermediate and Group 2 - Intermediate to Advanced.  Winner of each group gets a $25 gift certificate to an online sewing vendor.

I will check with DL and Kathryn to get this set up and finish up the guidelines... but basically, let's run it the same way as we did last year - but starting a little later (let's say today is the start date) and wrapping up before New Year.

Edited to Replace the link to go to this year's guidelines (just in case anyone missed them in the other topic).   They are pretty much the same as last year - but concentrating on defining what we can classify as a jacket.  2019 GUIDELINEs here.


Here's the link [url="xxxxxxxxxxxxx] for last year's guidelines[/url].  Once I get a bit more time, I will update the instructions here and get the Mods to help me set it up.

Sew Ruthie Sews

Ok I am interested too - more in the jacket than a dress.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

warpjr1965

Yippee! I think I know what I want to do, but now my mind is running in 10 different directions.
Wendy

Lisanne

October 16, 2019, 03:38:52 am #9 Last Edit: October 16, 2019, 07:23:44 am by Lisanne
Quote from: CCL on October 15, 2019, 06:54:42 am(Lisanne - is the kimono style jacket pattern new to you?  ;D )

Aren't all kimono/ robe patterns the same  :D  - mild differences in the amount of overlap at the front. . .  This one is just an adaptation of my basic flat-set sleeve block.

It would be easy just to do something a little different.  But stretching myself ?
I'll have a think.  Using - a decorative stitch instead of topstitching/ making a single layer band/ adding a self-drafted in-seam pocket instead of patch pockets/ machine embroidery on the pockets/ each piece cut from a different fabric - fun variations, but would not count as growing a new skill !
Perhaps quilted bands, or inseam buttonholes between band and front. . .

CCL - I did appreciate your skills list last year, most useful.  I have done all the techniques and hand stitches, but not made many of the garments or used many different fabrics.  Hmm - a kimono in silk chiffon or dupioni - ah well, so much for my plan of making something really easy for once  :D

Hmm - would allowing myself to make something really easy count as a challenging new self-care skill :D
Or the opposite - making myself do some speed sewing, make a kimono in a day or even a week - now that would be a challenge. 
:heart:  to all who take on challenges

P.S.  have found an inspirational 'kimono' jacket from Eileen Fisher with a shawl collar - now that would be a technique I have a phobia for  :D
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - comments on wardrobes, patterns, style, fit
https://uk.pinterest.com/sewingplums/ - style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - good basic sewing techniques
https://easyjackets.wordpress.com - no need for tailoring, unless you want to
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - Peggy Sagers sew-alongs

Melinda_B

Ooh, I like this!  And I always need more jackets!
Melinda

Perth, Australia
Personal Blog - https://melbrennan.com/

Joyce P

Yay! I was hoping to make a version of Eileen Fisher's Notch Collar coat, as well as a much-needed rain jacket/coat. So I think I'm IN!

indigotiger

I'm thinking of joining in again this year, as I could use another easy to wear cardigan jacket... Currently feeling inspired by the Zambeesi Jacket pattern by Pearl Red Moon:
I'd like to take the concept and apply it to my own TNT loose shirt pattern; purchasing the actual pattern, plus the cost of printing it out, only to then have to make multiple toiles to get it to fit, since it doesn't come in my size, seems like an inordinate amount of pre-sewing faffing about.

I'm now thinking about what would be the "new thing"... maybe patchwork/color-blocking a whole garment? or, I have some velveteen sitting on the resource shelves that could become part of it?, or ???
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

CCL

Yay!  Glad you guys are in!   I am going to try to sew along as well... Similar to Indigo, I am going for a more casual "shirt-like" jacket.   I bought the Pendelton 49er jacket pattern and really want to try it out.


sharonspils

Was hoping it would be a dress.

No matter I do have a jacket in mind and it is a new pattern company for me, I just need to figure out what fabric to use which could also be a new challenge for me.

CCL

Sorry, Sharonspils...wasn't sure which way to go... perhaps a jacket to go with the dress you are planning?


marciae

I might have to join in.  I want to make the Pendleton jacket also

sewsy

October 17, 2019, 10:18:04 am #17 Last Edit: October 17, 2019, 12:01:11 pm by sewsy
I'm gonna do a jacket instead of the dresses. As it turns out, I'll be making a jacket and evening gown for youngest DD's Christmas gifts. I've ordered fabrics for both, and am kinda excited to get them and start sewing. The fabric for the jacket is a crinkle black velvet from Fabric Mart. I'll use the Lisette jacket pattern above. The fabric for the gown is a shiny silver knit. I'm planning on a simple floor length raglan sleeved tee shirt dress. I think the pieces will look really cool, modern and a bit edgy. Kinda fun.

eta. The "new" thing for me will be the fabric. I've never worked with a crinkle velvet before, so I'm looking forward to how it'll turn out. As I'm thinking about the overall effect I'd like the garment to have, I'm going to do a muslin first, and shorten the length of the jacket quite a bit. I think that will give a more modern look and feel to the finished jacket.

One more new thing I'm pondering is to add gussets and zippers to the sleeves to really mimic the motorcycle jacket look. I'm perusing zipper sites to get a feel for lengths/prices for shiny metal vs. rhinestone zippers.

CCL

Quote from: marciae on October 17, 2019, 07:24:02 amI might have to join in.  I want to make the Pendleton jacket also

Marciae - I have been studying my grandmother's 49'er jacket - it's pretty much the same as the pattern, but it does have shoulder pads.  I am going to have to practice that pin tuck, reverse dart, or whatever to call it, that runs from the outer edge of the shoulder seam down about 6 inches.  So glad I held onto Grandma's jacket, even though it is embarrassingly moth eaten.  I will share notes!

Turquoise

I bought the Craftsy class "The iconic tweed jacket" ages ago, bought several lovely sets of fabrics/linings and then never got going and it's all sat there in a drawer.  Every time I thought about it I just got intimidated with all the hours needed and made excuses.  This is a great push to join in and finally have a go  :)

Sew Ruthie Sews

My main thoughts are either
- use an unusual fabric (sheer/metallic etc)
- make a jacket with collar and lapels (as my previous attempts were problematic, though I wangled it to work in the end)

(or just watch!)
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Towanda

I'm in. I just bought several Lekala jacket patterns. Tomorrow, the plan is to print out the pattern, make adjustments and start a muslin. The patterns fit pretty well but I always have make a narrow shoulder and rounded back adjustment. I will start with the colorless jacket pattern. I will work with this pattern until I get the fit right.

CCL

Yay, Towanda!  Off topic, I have been using your guideline of "make something of the remnant instead of returning the left over fabric to the stash."  Wanted to thank you again for that tidbit.  I find it surprisingly satisfying.

Towanda

Quote from: CCL on October 20, 2019, 06:26:47 amYay, Towanda!  Off topic, I have been using your guideline of "make something of the remnant instead of returning the left over fabric to the stash."  Wanted to thank you again for that tidbit.  I find it surprisingly satisfying.

I am flattered that you like the idea. I agree that it works really well to use up leftover fabric. Camisoles, princess seam tops and skirts work well to use up leftover fabric. I have a piece of leftover lace & some sweater knit. I'm hoping to combine them to make a lace front sweater.

On another note, the Lekala collarless jacket didn't look right when I printed it out. I trashed it and drafted a collarless jacket pattern in Patternmaster Boutique before I left home.  It is printed out and waiting for me to glue it together tonight. I might start the first muslin this week. Hopefully it will only take a couple of muslins to get the fit right. I was being lazy by using the Lekala pattern. I'm glad I only wasted 3 bucks.

indigotiger

I usually approach my sewing with a fairly utilitarian attitude. I love planning out what I want and need to wear, and figuring out how to make that happen. This project is rather the opposite. At first, I was thinking about the Zambeesi Jacket. But I realised that what I found appealing about that pattern was how creative the designer has been with her collage-style fabric combining, which appears much more playful than my usual more structured designs...

So, with that in mind, and because that sort of thing is not part of my repertoire, I gathered a bunch of my "too small to make a garment pieces of knit fabrics in grey colors, and some of the interesting silk scraps from the last Gathering of the Guilds, and started cutting out pieces and simply zigzagging them together!
Starting with a base of two fronts cut from striped grey and pale blue hemp knit, I overlaid the very sheer chiffon shibori dyed scrap, and added a few extra bits along the front edge, and the shoulders. I didn't expect/realise that the circular spots, which looked transparent, were actually dyed black, which caused an interesting effect laid over the striped background...
not being very keen on purple, I cut out some of the blue/grey/black tie-dyed silk and added a few rectangles. The rest of that fabric will be added to the back of the cardigan, and as bands on the sleeves. While the front isn't yet finished, it will sit for a while while I think about what else to add, to balance out the asymmetry. Am considering what sort of surface design will be best, currently leaning towards adding some stenciled motifs...
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

Philippa

Quote from: Joyce P on October 16, 2019, 12:58:38 pmYay! I was hoping to make a version of Eileen Fisher's Notch Collar coat, as well as a much-needed rain jacket/coat. So I think I'm IN!

Have you found a pattern for the notch collar coat or are you adapting a jacket pattern?

Sew Ruthie Sews

QuoteNow, jacket could be any top garment that has sleeves and opens in front and is worn over another item.  That would exclude vests, but not shirts.

So maybe a shirt or front opening blouse?
I've gone down the rabbit hole so completely with what I might do for SWAP I've not really been thinking about this jacket challenge.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

CCL

October 22, 2019, 03:29:12 pm #27 Last Edit: October 23, 2019, 06:04:00 pm by CCL
Quote from: Sew Ruthie Sews on October 22, 2019, 12:02:22 pm
Quote from: undefinedNow, jacket could be any top garment that has sleeves and opens in front and is worn over another item.  That would exclude vests, but not shirts.

So maybe a shirt or front opening blouse?

Yup, as long as it can be worn "over" another garment.  For example the Pendleton 49'er pattern that Marciae and I (maybe Theresa in Tucson as well) recently purchased is basically a shirt and isn't lined.  However, it is cut big, has patch pockets and fewer, but bigger buttons down the front.  The sleeve is cuffed just like a shirt, but again has those bigger buttons.


Sew Ruthie Sews

Ah OK I see what you mean.

I don't know if I'm going to participate in this one TBH, more likely that I'll do a winter 6PAC based around my previously sewn jacket.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

indigotiger

Quote from: undefinedSo maybe a shirt or front opening blouse?
Based on the description that CCL has for the challenge, whatever is made needs to be something that is "worn over another item" and I am somehow assuming that the intention is "worn over another garment" and not "worn over underwear" :o ... so my interpretation is that a shirt/jacket or a blouse/jacket would be appropriate, but not, say, a blouse made from Liberty lawn intended to be worn with another jacket over it.

Just as an aside, I also myself am unsure about what the difference is between a shirt and a blouse, other than that blouse is feminine and shirt is not gender specific, in our current language
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn

JenSaCan

I'm in. Still formulating my SWAP plan, but a knit cardigan jacket, camel parka or chambray blazer are all on my must have list and could potentially work in my plan. Either way, it'll be a new to me pattern.

warpjr1965

Busy with DD's jacket and my vest right now (both started too soon for this challenge.) I'm pretty set on https://www.palmerpletsch.com/product/mccalls-7694-melissas-moto-jacket/ Which is the same one Ruthie used for her zipper jacket last year.

I have some very pink tweed that has been sitting around for a long time, and I'll probably use that for this jacket. You all know how much I love pink!
Wendy

Melinda_B

While I thought I could join in, and even have my jacket planned, I've suddenly be struck by the realisation that I have a formal Frocktails event on 9 Nov, and haven't even started the toile for my dress yet.  Oops....  Plus have to make hubby a pair of boxer shorts as he's travelling from Sunday.  As we're coming into Summer, the jacket just became a low priority for now!   ;D
Melinda

Perth, Australia
Personal Blog - https://melbrennan.com/

sdBev

Quote from: CCL on October 22, 2019, 03:29:12 pm
Ia that collar a convertible collar or does it have a stand?  Hate making collar stands.
No more CHEMO! Working on recovering from the cancer, chemo and long period of restricted activity with unrestricted eating. Periodic updates with more detail will be on my site.  Www.sdbev.wordpress.com

indigotiger

While I've not seen the actual Pendelton jacket pattern, the original jacket had a convertible collar and not a stand collar, so I would imagine that feature was duplicated...
Here are photos of actual jackets showing the collar, front and back, and no stand in sight!
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn