Author Topic: How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern  (Read 3184 times)

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Offline Sprucegal

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How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern
« on: September 24, 2012, 06:04:59 PM »
I am working on a dartless blouse pattern Burda 3212.  It is an OOP pattern.  The fit was pretty good, but got better when I pinned in a bust dart.  I don't need the width of an FBA, just a bust dart.  How do I add a dart to this pattern. This was something I found on PR, but didn't understand fully what to do. http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=1865
Thank you

Offline Lisa

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Re: How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2012, 07:50:06 PM »
I am working on a dartless blouse pattern Burda 3212.  It is an OOP pattern.  The fit was pretty good, but got better when I pinned in a bust dart.  I don't need the width of an FBA, just a bust dart.  How do I add a dart to this pattern. This was something I found on PR, but didn't understand fully what to do. http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=1865
Thank you

Hi Sprucegal,

You say you pinned in the dart...was that from a muslin, a finished garment or were you tissue-fitting? (if the general guidelines below aren't helpful enough, that will be useful information! ;) ;D)  So it sounds as if you want the dart for shaping, but aren't needing to add additional fabric.  If that's so, here's what I'd do.

Identify where on your pattern your dart's point is, as well as where it crosses the seamline. You can do that using your pinned dart fabric/tissue.  Draw that line on your pattern. 

Then determine how wide the pinned dart (as pinned) is/was at the seamline.  Mark a point on your pattern seamline that is that distance on each side of the dart line you've already drawn.  Then draw a line from each of those points to the dart point. 

Now all you need to do is true the seamline.  Lay a square of tissue paper behind where your new dart is and tape it to your pattern piece and fold the new dart how it will lay when sewn.  Then straighten out the seam line.  When you unfold the dart, you'll see the usual shape on the seamline for a "dart to be sewn."

HTH,

Lisa
Found: a favorite silver bracelet that I hadn't seen for a while.  On its four quarters it says "Welcome Introspection; Accept Wisdom; Seek Illumination; Embrace Innocence."   It's like a "magic 8-ball" on the wrist...

Offline Sprucegal

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Re: How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2012, 08:53:24 PM »
Hi Lisa,

I cut out the pattern in muslin first to check the fit, so it's in the muslin I pinned the dart. I measured down from the underarm about 4" and pinched about 1 1/4" at the side seam angling up to nothing about an 1 1/2" from the bust point. I just need the dart for shaping.
I'm sorry but I don't understand where I draw the line. Do I draw a horizontal line through the bust point, going across the pattern from cf to the side seam?

Offline Lisa

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Re: How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2012, 03:04:18 AM »
Hi Lisa,

I cut out the pattern in muslin first to check the fit, so it's in the muslin I pinned the dart. I measured down from the underarm about 4" and pinched about 1 1/4" at the side seam angling up to nothing about an 1 1/2" from the bust point. I just need the dart for shaping.
I'm sorry but I don't understand where I draw the line. Do I draw a horizontal line through the bust point, going across the pattern from cf to the side seam?

Hi Sprucegal,

You don't need to measure at all.  You've draped the dart you want in your muslin.  So you don't need to worry about where your bust point is, or how far down from the underarm you put the dart.  Since it's in your muslin, the easiest way to get it transferred to your paper pattern is to take a sharpie and mark your dart's "stitching line" (right on your muslin--just as you pinned it) on both sides of the dart (from the seam to the point of the dart). 

Then unpin the dart, and you'll see the "legs" of the dart.  Draw a third line from the point of the dart to the seamline, half-way between the legs, which will be the fold line for your dart.  Transfer those markings to your pattern.  You'll still need to "true" the seamline as discussed in my last post.

HTH,

Lisa
Found: a favorite silver bracelet that I hadn't seen for a while.  On its four quarters it says "Welcome Introspection; Accept Wisdom; Seek Illumination; Embrace Innocence."   It's like a "magic 8-ball" on the wrist...

Offline Sprucegal

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Re: How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2012, 02:15:22 AM »
Thanks Lisa I understand now.

Offline andib

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Re: How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern
« Reply #5 on: January 01, 2014, 02:02:04 AM »
So, I found this thread, which answers my question, except one thing...

When I draw in the dart that I draped onto my bodice, and true the side seams, do I need to add to the bodice length of the front bodice so that it matches the side seam of the back bodice at the hem?  Is that clear as mudd???

Offline lca

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Re: How to add a bust dart to a dartless blouse pattern
« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2014, 07:46:26 PM »
It sounds like you need to increase your cup size. Try this method.  It  does not make the side seams different lengths, therefore, you do not need to add to the front length. http://www.sewingconnection.com/darts.html  Scroll down to #2.

 

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