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September 19, 2019, 10:52:27 am


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Crazyquilter's Dream SWAP (Please comment in the discussion thread)

Started by crazyquilter, December 11, 2018, 08:11:46 pm

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I may change the title of my SWAP, but for now this will work.  Dream SWAP because for years I have dreamed about actually participating in a SWAP.  Like so many of us, reading about the SWAPs is what brought me to Stitcher's Guild.  Also dream because I have been poring over Ivey Abitz new collections every season for years too, wishing I would make something similar.  I decided that this is going to be the year.   I have actually been working on pattern muslins and have two wearable muslins made for what she calls frocks.  I tried two different patterns and I think I have settled on one of them, Opal Annie's Sydney.  There was a sew along on her Facebook group last month and she gave members the pattern free.  I'm going to try another version tomorrow hopefully, making my sew before SWAP starts garment. For my muslin, I pretty much sewed according to the pattern for the first one.  I have some changes I want to make to the hem mostly on the next version.

My plan as of now is for a group of dresses and toppers influenced by Ivey Abitz with hopefully one pair of leggings.  It will be more of a spring and summer collection, but I wore the muslin I made to church on Sunday with a long sleeved tee under it and a topper over it.  (I also wore fleece tights.  Those things are wonderful.) So, with some clothes I already have layered in, the group should work year round.

My plan is to use mostly fabrics currently in my stash or harvested from garments I no longer want or thrifted garments.  The teal cotton yarn I'm using is some that I unraveled from a sweater that had a stain on it.  I have several yards of a linen/rayon blend in natural.  I'm hoping to dye it and wind up with the colors I want.  I thought I had a photo of the

Unless I change my mind this will be my inspiration photo.  I ran across it on Facebook and my first thought was, "Wouldn't that make a great wardrobe?"  I'd taken a stab at putting together a couple of sample capsules long before the SWAP rules using different inspiration pieces including one Janice used, Max Ernst's The Kiss and a Matisse that of course I didn't write the title of, so I've had it in my mind to try this for quite a while.

I did the color pallette thing on the photo and came up with colors I love and love together.  The top one is the color of one of my favorite skirts that I used two dye baths to achieve.  I liked the color so much that I painted my bathroom that color.  I already have quite a few things in my wardrobe that I will be able to mix in with the pieces I sew, so there shouldn't be any orphans no matter how much of the plan I get done.

SWAP 2019 idea board to post by Dawn Smith, on Flickr

I borrowed the line drawings from Ivey Abitz.  I'm hoping to make a couple of versions of the  Opal Annie Sydney dress, one with a pleated ruffle and 6-8 drawstrings to pull the length up, so the dresses can be worn underneath (longer) or on top (shorter and gathered).  I have it all worked out in my mind.  We'll see how it actually works in cloth, hopefully soon.  The other version I'd like is a shorter version with no ruffle to wear over the other dress similar to IA's Wildefield Frock.

Neutral #1 - Black
   • RTW jersey cardigan, refashioned to look like IA Elliott jacket with crocheted trim
   • High water to low water slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney (unknown fiber stash fabric) - make before start of SWAP, I hope
   • Boxy topper or vest - pattern??? (pieced from various black stash fabrics, possibly crazy pieced or strip pieced)
Neutral #2 - Teal
   • Jersey cardigan, dyed fabric harvested from t-shirts, Alabama Chanin style, possibly with appliqué, but probably not - pattern???
   • High water to low water slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney
   • Knitted cotton topper - pattern???, yarn unraveled from a stained sweater
   • Leggings - Peg Legs by Patterns for Pirates (2 thrifted tops, hopefully enough fabric.  If not I'll have to hunt for something else to piece in with it.)

Accent A - Olive  (dyed linen/rayon stash fabric, wish me luck on the color)
   • High water to low water slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney
Accent B - Olive and black stripe
   • Short, layering slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney, no ruffle
Accent C - Rust (rayon stash fabric)
   • Short, layering slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney, no ruffle

Accent D - another short, layering slip dress, either olive or rust or possibly a print depending on what turns up between now and the deadline date. 


I got my black slip dress cut out yesterday with barely enough fabric to make the dress.  I lengthened the pattern by about six inches.  I had about four inches of fabric left over.  I wanted to make the pleated ruffle 3x the width of the bottom of the dress, but had to settle for a little over 2x.  I was hoping to have enough for a sash, but that didn't happen.  As it is I will have to make the interior casings for the drawstrings from a different black fabric.   I think I could have maybe cut the bias trim from the scraps, but the fabric is a little thick for that.  I found some black single fold bias in my stash.  I'm hoping it will be easier to apply since it's already ironed.

I wound up cutting 1/2" from the shoulders.  The muslin I made lays a little odd on my neck.  Pinning the half inch out helped.  I also cut the neck an inch higher all around, so it would show under the over dresses.  I'm hoping to sew it up today.


I got my black slip/dress finished.  Ivey Abitz would call it a frock.  I am happy with how it turned out.  The only issue I have is I'm not sure about the raised neckline.  I'm thinking 1/2" would have been better than the 1" I raised it.  I could cut it lower and rebind it, but I don't see that happening any time soon. 

I wound up with ten casings for the drawstrings, four in front, four in back and two built into the side seams.  I'm looking forward to playing around with them.  In the image below, the first photo has the four front and four back drawstrings raised.  The second photo has only the two side seam ones raised.

Here's a modeled one of the dress by itself.

I also made a muslin for the layering dress from some fabric I got at a thrift store.  Both versions use the Opal Annie Sydney pattern.  The black one is lengthened and the red one has the front shortened and the ruffle left off.


Just a couple of brightened close-ups of the drawstring section on my first garment.  I can't wait to get started on the second version of this high water/low water frock to see if they will actually work together as I have planned.  Version 2 will have the neckline raised a half inch instead of an inch.

Four drawstrings raised front and back. They are only tightened about half way. Of course I obviously missed some thread ends. With three seams for each drawstring, I shouldn't be surprised.

Only the side drawstrings tightened. I like the texture that the seam lines for the casings gives it, but honestly IRL they aren't very noticeable unless you are very close to the dress. I'm planning a couple more of this dress in lighter colors, so it will be interesting to see how that plays out. Maybe I'll go for a thread that is a shade or two lighter or darker on one of those.

The ruffle is in two pieces with a slit at the sides.


I think I may have found a pattern for the teal Alabama Chanin style cardigan.  I was going through some 2002-3 Burda Style magazines that I got at the library book sale and found this pattern.  I will most likely make a wearable muslin.  I still have to find and dye the t-shirts for fabric for the teal one.


I dyed the two skirts I was wanting to use for fabric yesterday, hoping to match a third skirt.  I also threw in some other garments that I wasn't wearing due to color.  One of the skirts turned out like I expected, close enough in color to work.  The second was a bit of a surprise, but I may just try wearing it.  I also had a nice win with a sweater that dyed to match the two skirts I want to turn into one of my high water/low water frocks.  It was about the same color as the bright turquoise skirt.  I didn't put the darkest skirt in the dye bath as that was the color I was hoping to achieve.  I used a box of black Rit dye and two capfuls of tan.  The skirt I dyed has the original color waistband draped over the hanger.


I had thought that I would start sewing the minute I could.  Here it is nearly the end of January and all I have achieved is to nearly cut out the first dress.  The fabric from the skirt I am refashioning wound up being about three inches too narrow.  I planned to piece a triangle at the bottom.  I stalled and lost momentum.  Hopefully today I will pick it back up again.  I need to make about 15 bibs for my youngest grandsweetie who is a drooler so her mom can wash them with a full load of laundry.  I will start those and hopefully that will get me back in sewing mode.

Ivey Abitz newest collection,  a capsule collection, has me excited to finish my SWAP plan for practice, so I will be confident enough to purchase some more lux fabric for something similar to hers.  The nerd in me did some analyzing of the new IA collection:

○ Bertie Frock in Ink Striped Linen - 1 look, $695, low water
○ Blanchefleur Frock in Silvery Moon Embroidered Spring Weave - 6 looks, $595, low water
□ Camille Frock in Everyday Grey Mohair Knit - 3 , $595, high water
□ Camille Shirt in Everyday Grey Houndstooth - 5, $395
□ Chittister Frock in Ink Looped Embroidered Silk Organza, 1 look $1,155, high water
□ Chittister Shirt Jacket in Ink Embroidered Velvet-on-Silk, 1 look, $1,275, longer
□ Elliot Jacket in Everyday Grey Sporting Knit - 9 looks, $375, short
□ Elliot Shirt in Everyday Grey Sporting Knit, 1 look, $375
□ Elliot Shirt in Springrose Sporting Knit, 1 look, $375
□ Elliot Vest in Springrose Floral Boiled Wool - 3 looks, $550
□ Eugenia Jacket in Everyday Grey Plaid Spring Coating - 3 looks, $1,275
□ Fairholme Necktie in Silvery Moon Checked Silk Organza - 4 looks, $175
□ Highlands Skirt in Springrose Plaid Weave - 4 looks, $595, high water
□ Hopewell Frock in Springrose Yarn Dyed Linen - 6 looks, $595, low water
□ Porte Cochere Sash in Springrose Yarn Dyed Linen - 7 looks, $175
□ Wildefield Frock in Silvery Moon Checked Silk Organza- 2 looks, $655, high water

16 looks, 16 pieces, 13 fabrics, 15 patterns = $9,260

I did a rough estimate of yardage required and came up with 45 yards.  At $20 a yard that would be $890 and I'm sure that would be a low estimate for similar fabrics.  I found a similar floral boiled wool for $75 a yard.  The whole capsule wardrobe would never happen, but maybe a SWAPs worth?  It sure puts the IA prices more in perspective.

Garment breakdown:

6 frocks (3 long, 3 shorter)
3 shirt/shirt jackets
1 knit jacket
2 long sleeved knit shirts
1 vest
1 skirt
1 necktie
1 sash


I have actual sewing to report.  I did sew in Feb. just not for SWAP and not for me.  I made Barbie clothes for my grandsweeties.

I got the teal dress out yesterday and mostly finished cutting it out.  I am making it from two skirts.  I had gotten to the part where I realized my fabric from the one skirt was too narrow to cut the dress and it was going to have to be pieced when I put it away, so that was the first thing I did yesterday.  Today I did the bias trim on the armscyes.  I'm hoping to actually finish it tomorrow.

I also got back to work on my muslin for the refashioned Elliot jacket.  I am making it from the same jersey waterfall cardigan as the one I'm planning for SWAP, just in a different color.  I want to get this one finished and wear it some to see if I need to make changes on the black one. This one will have Alabama Chanin style embroidered edges.  I am planning a crocheted edge treatment for the black one.  I've done this crochet treatment on another refashioned t-shirt to cardigan/jacket and liked how it turned out.

Here is a photo of the other crochet edge treatment.  I used several colors and weights of yarn and thread for that one.  I haven't decided yet for the black one if I will do it all in black, or use the colors from my SWAP.

You can see the whole cardigan/jacket and read my notes on it at my Ravelry project page.


Hurray!  Item two is finished, or at least finished enough that I wore it yesterday.  I planned to put a second, longer ruffle under the first, but can't decide whether I want to go ahead and to that or keep it as it is. I took some photos as I was sewing the drawstring casings if anyone would like to see them.

This is the same pattern as my black dress above, so the drawstrings can be adjusted to suit my whim.


I don't seem to be able to post my other photos, so I'll come back and see if things are better.


It looks like I may have finally gotten the other photo to post.  This will be comfortable in the summer as it's made of a thin 100% cotton.


Here are the photos I took of the drawstring casings when I was sewing my teal dress.

The casings before I stitched them down. They are an inch from the bottom to leave room for the ruffle to be sewn on and still have the casings open at the bottom. You can see on the sides where I had to piece the fabric because it was too narrow.

Inside of the dress showing the 3"x 10" casings that I made for the drawstrings. They are stitched down the center and each side with the top and bottom open. I ran the drawstrings out the top so the strings wouldn't show. The side is an extension I added for the side seam casing.

The side seam casing after it was sewn. I first sewed the side seam and then folded the flaps down and stitched along the edges, leaving the top and bottom open. The extra seams are where I had to piece the fabric because the skirt I made it from was too narrow. Same for the seam going parallel to the bottom.


I played around a bit with my teal dress.  The first photo shows it over the black dress I made earlier.  I enjoyed wearing this outfit to church on Sunday.

The next photo shows the teal dress over the raspberry one that I made as a muslin for the Sydney pattern that I'm using.  That one doesn't have the drawstrings.  I also made a sash from the raspberry fabric.

Today I cut the teal leggings from the two identical thrifted tops.  It was close, but I managed to get them cut out.  I thought I would probably have to add fabric from a third t-shirt which would need to be dyed.  I'm glad I didn't.


I got my leggings made this week from the two thrifted tops.  I thought I had taken a before pic, but in spite of hanging the top for the photo and carrying the camera into the room, I didn't actually snap the photo. I did find a pic of the top online, so I've included that along with what's left of one of the tops. Through what one of my favorite bloggers calls ninja cutting, I managed to get a pair of Patterns for Pirates Peg Legs for me, a pair of their Petite Pegs for my youngest grandsweetie and a pair of Barbie leggings. I used the backs of both tops for the top of my leggings, the fronts for the bottoms of my leggings and the sleeves of one top for my waistband and the sleeves of the other top for the baby leggings. I was able to utilize the hems of the original tops for all of the leggings hems.

IMG_3564s by Dawn Smith, on Flickr

IMG_3566s by Dawn Smith, on Flickr


I'm working on patterns today.  I redrew the Sydney dress with a different hem line for my rust over dress.  That seems to have gone pretty well.  Then I tackled the Burda jacket.  First I remeasured to make sure I was getting the right pattern size.  I was a bit surprised to find out that the pattern I had picked only went up to Burda size 42 and according to their chart I need a 44.  I'm thinking that since the pattern is drawn for wovens and I am making it from a jersey knit sheet that I should be OK.  We'll see.  I have most of the pieces drawn out.  I'm using freezer paper which is proving pretty easy to see through.  At least if it doesn't work out, I'm not out much money, a quarter for the magazine and $2 for the sheet. 


I finished my rust layering dress just now.  I really like how it turned out. I decided against ruffles for this one.  Hopefully I can get some photos tomorrow.  I should have enough fabric left for a sash, but not as long as the IA ones.  I really had to think to get the pattern on the fabric.  I only had 64" of 60" wide fabric, so less than two yards.  I wound up folding the fabric in uneven thirds, 18" on each side and 27" across.  I used the 64" as the width.  Just getting it folded was a task with the slippery rayon.


I wore my rust layering frock over my black frock to church yesterday.  I really enjoyed it.  It's starting to seem like I might actually be able to have a wardrobe that really suits me.  If that's all I get from this SWAP, it has been a rousing success.  I think I have found an easily varied TNT pattern in the  Opal Annie Sydney.  I've made it five times now, three longer with ruffled hems and two shorter ones.

When I got home from church I worked on the sash.  I barely had enough fabric left to squeak it out. I had to do some piecing, but I think it actually makes the sash more interesting. It was too cold for sandals today, but I am sure ready to start wearing them.


Revisiting my plan to see where I am.

Neutral #1 - Black
   • RTW jersey cardigan, refashioned to look like IA Elliott jacket with crocheted trim
   • High water to low water slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney (unknown fiber stash fabric) - finished
   • Boxy topper or vest - pattern??? (pieced from various black stash fabrics, possibly crazy pieced or strip pieced)
Neutral #2 - Teal
   • Jersey cardigan, dyed fabric harvested from t-shirts jersey sheet, changed to try out my idea for the new IA Chevallier Cardigan, pattern from Burda 3-2002 - Cut out, waiting to dye it until I get it finished.
   • High water to low water slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney - finished
   • Knitted cotton topper - yarn unraveled from a stained sweater - possible pattern found
   • Leggings - Peg Legs by Patterns for Pirates cut from 2 thrifted tops- finished

Accent A - Olive  (dyed linen/rayon stash fabric, wish me luck on the color)
   • High water to low water slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney
Accent B - Olive and black stripe
   • Short, layering slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney, no ruffle
Accent C - Rust (rayon stash fabric)
   • Short, layering slip dress - Opal Annie Sydney - finished

Accent D - another short, layering slip dress, either olive or rust or possibly a print depending on what turns up between now and the deadline date. 

Here is the Chevallier Cardigan from IA.  We'll see how close mine gets.  The fabric is grey right now.  If I like how it turns out I'll try dyeing it teal.


I got the Burda jacket nearly finished and I'm pleased with the fit. The only thing I changed was to take it in a half inch at the back neck. It was interesting to put together.  I've never sewn two part sleeves before. I was surprised that the underarm seam gets sewn first and then you sew in the sleeve, finishing up with sewing the upper arm seam along with the shoulder.  I think the sleeve goes in much easier this way. So far, I've done the whole thing on the serger.  I pinned on scraps for the bits that will make it like the IA Chevallier.  I think they will work.  The front bottoms of the Burda are pointed where the IA is straight across, but I don't think that is a problem.  What is a problem is the dye sample I did, didn't get me the teal I was hoping for.  The jacket is sewn in a grey jersey.  The teal dye turned it more green than teal.  I have an idea for using aquamarine along with the teal.  We'll see how the sample turns out when I get a chance to pick up the dye.  I kind of like the color I got with the first sample, but I would have to call it an accent which is doable.  I'm pretty tickled to have a wearable jacket the first try with this pattern.