• Welcome to Stitcher's Guild Reloaded. Please login or sign up.
March 01, 2021, 02:26:37 am


Remember:  Finalizing a subscription is a manual process, so be patient; your account will be updated ASAP.

The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge

Started by CCL, October 01, 2018, 09:15:24 am

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


How fun! I don't think I can join in this time, but if I got the chance I would make a Lempi Dress, which is basically a shirt dress, with bound buttonholes and making a belt as my new techniques/aspects.


Look forward to seeing everyone's creations.
Sarah from Australia


Quote from: mudcat on October 01, 2018, 10:40:48 pm

However, I still want to make this vintage vogue:

  I don't want a white collar however so I'm still trying to figure that part out.

very belated reply to Mutcat about this dress... it's a vintage look. The additional over collar and cuff inserts are totally optional. The original way this kind of dress would have been made -and worn- called for the extra white (usually linen) pieces, but there is no reason you need them now.

This dress would have typically been made out of wool...basically non-washable at the time and before dry cleaning was easily available. You rarely washed the dress!!! The white bits were out of washable fabric, and were used where your skin touched the dress. Under the dress you wore a full length (washable) slip, you had dress shields in your armpits...so the only remaining bits to worry about getting dirty were the collar and cuff areas.   You can pop off the detachable bits, hot wash with bleach, brush the dress a bit, and it's ready for further wearing. Maybe apply a good dose of perfume.

If you make a modern version, with modern fabrics, you're free to do whatever you want with the collar and cuff inserts. Any contrast fabric would look good, or just omit those pieces. Laundry is no longer a factor.


Quote from: bessiecrocker on October 13, 2018, 03:27:55 am

... You can pop off the detachable bits, hot wash with bleach, brush the dress a bit, and it's ready for further wearing. Maybe apply a good dose of perfume.


I've noticed wool doesn't easily retains smells. I typically wash my cardigans and wool skirts twice per season and it seems enough. (Pants are a different matter though)

One Dress A Month Sew Along


I need some advise please...I will be making a dress similar to this in silk chiffon fabric. I am making a bodice muslin at this moment. I have trouble picking lining - I worked with silk chiffon before but I never made lined chiffon dress. I am thinking about silk crepe de chine for lining (16mm). Or I can get silk double georgette (16mm). I do have crepe de chine samples and thinking maybe it will be too light/transparent? Will I be better with double georgette? Is it true (I read somewhere) that silk crepe double georgette does not "breathe" and too hot? Will I get better coverage with double georgette?
1fe25bc7-0387-48f2-83cd-9e9447c15e67 by Irina, on Flickr

Dress Fabric 007 by Irina, on Flickr


Irina, take my thoughts with healthy grains of salt, as I have little experience with silk chiffon.  However, I would think you would need something a little more opaque with that beautiful, beautiful fabric. My best guess of the crepe de chine is to try a sample and see if it's too transparent.  If it is, would a rayon lining such as bemberg/ambiance breathe enough and still be opaque enough?   


October 14, 2018, 02:04:06 am #40 Last Edit: October 14, 2018, 03:01:53 am by bessiecrocker
Irina, here are some more thoughts, feel free to ignore! I think you want to avoid any kind of silk (or other fabric) with a "crepe" weave. That includes charmeuse, one side is creped- the other is satin...you want to be sure the  satin side is touching your chiffon.

The structure of crepe makes it a bit  "sticky"...it won't work properly with the chiffon.

If you want silk...I'd look at Habotai (China silk). It's very lightweight, has a slick, flat weave, and will keep the dress floaty. " See through" might still be an issue, however. You could line critical parts of the dress (using the same silk) if necessary.

I'd also look into Bemberg*...similar weight to china silk, but cheaper. You want to think of ways to keep this dress very light and flow-y. Using a heavier fabric is probably not the way to go.

*mta: I don't know where you are located...Bemberg is a USA brand name for cupro (viscose) lining fabric. Where I am (Europe) the equivelent is called "Venezia."  If you've got silk chiffon, you may prefer to go for true silk as the under fabric. Habotai comes in different weights, see if you can test some that is about 12mm and 16mm.


bessiecrocker, CCL - thank you for your advise.
bessiecrocker, I see now why crepe weave fabric might be not the best choice for me. I looked into habotai - there is 15.5 mm on Thai silks (I am in the US)and would be perfect (I have their samples) but it comes only in white color that does not work with my fabric. 8 mm comes in different colors but it is so light. It might be ok if I go with a bit darker color.

I have "love & hate" relationship with Bemberg lining. I just do not understand the quality. I bought Bemberg a couple of times from different vendors and every time it was a bit different quality. Last time I cut Bemberg and started sewing/pressing seams  and too much water from iron got on it - it is stained fabric so badly I could not use it. The other time  Bemberg was perfect - had better hand and did not stain from water.


October 15, 2018, 12:07:58 pm #42 Last Edit: October 15, 2018, 12:12:34 pm by CCL
Irina... I say this with trepidation, but you could try dying the silk.  (I have never done this, but others on the site have dyed fabric and get good results, perhaps one of them may chime in.) 

I know what you mean about the varying quality of bemberg/ambiance.

I can say, though, that I really like the bemberg lining I bought from Britex earlier this year.  I haven't sewn it up yet, but it feels lovely.  I liked also (and it sewed up well) the bemberg I bought from Emma One Sock and Sawyer Brook.  Don't know if that helps... and of course, I have no relationship with any of these vendors...besides them being the sink-holes of my fabric purchasing dollars.

Edited to add:  I just thought of something else.  Sometimes if I am unsure of a lining fabric, I make the pattern up in it first (sort of a step between the muslin and making the garment).   That helps me gauge not only if my pattern alterations are really okay, but how the lining is going to work.   That way, if the lining is a fail, you could try something else.


Quote from: Irina on October 15, 2018, 08:42:52 am

I have "love & hate" relationship with Bemberg lining.

I totally know what you mean...my biggest complaint is that some of it smells so bad when it's wet.

You need silk underdress if you have silk chiffon.  See, I just decided that for you.

I think CCL is on to something...dye!  Look at Dharma Trading for dye and other silk options. Silk is super easy to dye yourself...bit messy maybe. Do you have a top loader washer or can you find one?

Also consider using two layers of 8mm habotai...look at Emma One Sock silk, lots of colors. you could even use two different colors layered together for special effect. Drawback is that it's not as simple to sew, but would look good.


Still thinking about how to participate and use my wool.  I may try to replicate this look https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MRKLT4O/ref=cm_sw_r_pi_dp_U_x_A48YBbJWQXAS9

which I saw posted on another sewing group's board.  I have a few patterns that could stand in for the basic shape, i would just need to find a lining fabric. 


I've finally found my fabric and pattern and will be making another DVF wrap dress but adding a waist stay this time as the knit is heavier.   Does this fit under the guidelines CCL as I have never added one to a garment before?


Sharonspils, if you've never done the technique before, that definitely counts!

Wendy,. Oh my gosh, I love that dress! I think it looks like you!  What fun! 

Life has been happening here about, but I am almost finished with the trial top and can begin playing with the skirt...still very unsure of how this will work in the "good" fabric, but am getting in good practice.


Thanks Wendy.
Add me to the list of people who will happily want to copy that style   :applause2:
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - opinions on style, wardrobes, patterns
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/lisannebainbrid/ - useful style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - links to good technique advice
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - listing of Peggy Sagers' sew-alongs
https://usingmybernina500e.wordpress.com - instructions for using my embroidery machine


Here's the top of my trial run through on the two-piece dress. Here it is without the tie.  Even though this is the "practice run," I am having fun playing with the print placement.

I am still futzing ideas about how to use the border part of the fabric in the skirt.   Haven't cut anything out yet.  Still plugging away.

top of V9428 by CCL photos, on Flickr

Here's the border part of the fabric.

challis border print fabric by CCL photos, on Flickr


I have been (again) looking at some Silhouette patterns videos these last weeks. Yesterday I finally pulled out my wrap dress pattern (its been sitting there for quite some time), traced it and made a muslin. I then draped the muslin as per Peggy's instructions. And it worked! I think I will get decent results with the (only slightly altered, the pattern fit is generally good) adjusted pattern. So, new pattern and draping the muslin with L-C-D in mind is my new technique. Now I will use todays spare time to drape another muslin - I am on a roll.  :))


Quote from: CCL on October 22, 2018, 03:58:06 pm
Here's the top of my trial run through on the two-piece dress. Here it is without the tie.  Even though this is the "practice run," I am having fun playing with the print placement.

I am still futzing ideas about how to use the border part of the fabric in the skirt.   Haven't cut anything out yet.  Still plugging away.

The colors in the border really pops against the rest of the fabric, CCL. I would think that using it in an unexpected way, as in on the diagonal for the skirt, or across the upper bust for the top might be interesting. Or maybe an unexpected pop of the border colors in the sleeve. Or in a back yoke treatment.

The expected places for a border are, of course, at a border (skirt or top hem) or used for the tie.

My blog: I Made This! at http://imadethis-asewingblog.blogspot.com/
Flickr Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/72428033@N00/albums

2018 Dress a Month count:


I am not going to finish this pre-swap but I've decided upon my dress pattern for this year's anniversary. I'll make a mock up that will be blouse length. 


This is such a great idea! I could be in. I recently made a dress that is very similar to what this project would involve - something new to me, different fitting, etc. I'd love to give this type of challenge a go with with a different fabric or dress style. I always wait too long to make a dress for Christmas and I have made so few dresses for work, even though they suit me. Fun! I'd put myself squarely in the intermediate block and probably in the intermediate to advanced, because even though I haven't sewn with all of the fabrics listed in the fabric grouping, I've done a fair bit of sewing at different stages in my life.
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia


October 28, 2018, 11:12:56 am #53 Last Edit: October 28, 2018, 11:16:02 am by CCL
Stephanie, oooh, do join us!  Depending on Mudcat's rules, maybe your dress can also be your "previously made"  or completed after the rules were announced... for SWAP.

We have until Dec. 15th for sewing -almost 7 weeks, then voting (and holiday goodie munching), so perhaps there's enough time?  I am a slow sewer, so not sure about for me and the #@$%$#@***** green wool challis, but maybe I can at least get the trial version done.

PS.. I love love love your new avatar!  So cute!

Edited to addBev, boy do I ever understand not being able to finish... I am another one looking at the challenge as a way to get myself to finish the aforementioned trial garment.


Thanks for your encouragement, CCL! I think I will join in. I would love to have a new dress or outfit for Christmas, and there are so many new patterns I would like to try. Green wool challis! Love! Love! And thanks re. the avatar! Hiding under the jacket is the new dress I recently made - a vintage Pucci number that gave me some issues with a front bodice seam/design detail but that I love overall.

Medea, I just saw that you mentioned me and the Burda dress I made a couple of years ago. Thanks! I wore that dress last week and I was thinking again what a great dress it is! Miraculously, my FBA also worked well on that dress and the whole thing fits well. The only thing I could have improved is slimming the shoulders slightly. I added shoulder pads to mine, which works, too. My fabric was a really nice wool jersey without too much stretch, that I bought from Emmaonesock. The wool means that it is warm enough for me to wear here given how chilly it is and how cold I am as a rule. I was thinking to myself that I would love to make another if I can find the right fabric. The only thing I would change about my first version is that I made the sleeves full length and I think it looks better at 3/4, which is what the pattern calls for. I always fold the sleeves under but should just go ahead and trim them.
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia


I didnt realize we have until Dec 15th.  I might be done by then.  I need my anniversary dress for the 5th.  For some reason I thought the preSwap dress needed to be done in the next few days....


sdBev: I think it may be that a garment completed before the rules are posted could be included in SWAP, but not sure.

I got excited about this dress idea and started thinking about what I'd like to make. One option would be this Burda dress that I traced last year but never did anything with. I have some nice green wool that I could use to make this but it would be waaaay more fun to try to find something metallic. :)
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia


Bev - we do have until December 15th to get the dress sewn.  So yippee if you can join us!!  I am getting excited about seeing everyone's makes - and this may be just the ticket to getting my flagging mojo going!

DragonLady was/is going to help with the posting and voting... I was hoping we could do it like SWAP last year - but instead of photos of each garment, just three photos of the same garment, front, side and back on the person for whom the dress was made.   

Morzel, I have been meaning to comment and keep forgetting, I really like that wrap dress pattern.  Usually wrap dresses are just a bit too much for me - as I am basically a rectangle, but that one looks as if it might actually work for me and give the illusion of some curves!


Updated just to say that green wool would be lovely, too, and is probably what I'll use as I am trying to de-stash. I didn't mean to inadvertently sound like I was insulting those who choose to use classic rather than flashy materials!
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia


CCL, I'm so glad you started this challenge, I don't own a dress and could have used one for a recent baby shower. I was super busy the last few months and now I'm free to sew. I've decided to try the Cashmerette Rivermont dress. It looks like a comfortable and classic dress. I have never sewn this pattern line and will have to do a muslin.



Re thinking my wool, I may go with this:
IMG_1289 by wendyr, on Flickr

ETA: would use the bottom fabric.

and still make the Metamorphic dress.  Dithering.


I finished the muslin.  Well the first muslin. Knew when I finished initial adjustments to the tissue that I still needed to fix the shoulder slope. When fitting I ran into an old forgotten issue the back waist length Also had  a problem caused by the fabric.  Think Ive got it all ironed out but I want to make a wearable before I cut the good fabric.  Will have a post on  sdbev.wordpress.com Wed morning.


I'm definitely in. Now that the SWAP rules have been posted and I have a more clear idea of how my wardrobe needs and the rules meet, I am going to make one of my everyday TNT dresses, probably with my indigo pinstripe fabric. I know for certain that I want to learn "how to add a button band" to the center front, since the basic pattern just has a seam there (dress just pops over my head without fasteners). I also want to add a simple "peter pan" collar, so will also be learning how to draft that as well... While I have done some simple pattern manipulation in the past, these both will be new modifications.
The Things that Make us Happy Make us Wise.

Read about my daily life at Acorn Cottage ~ Acorn Cottage Artisanry

"It is known (to some) that by dwelling in the present, conceding what is necessary to past and future, but no more than is necessary, it is quite possible to live happily ever after"      - Edgar Pangborn


I'm definitely in on this challenge, too. I'll be sewing between Dec 4 and 15th I think. I'm torn between patterns, but I'm thinking I'll kill two birds with one stone and make a dress I could wear for work or also use in SWAP. It will be with a pattern that I've never used before. The fabric is the dark green in this picture (gabardine; underneath the yellow yarn):

Pattern is uncertain. Could be this (Burda):

or this (also Burda):

or this vintage Molyneux one (I've always had a thing for dresses with built-in belt loops...do not ask me why :)):

Note: all patterns are new to me.
That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia

Sew Ruthie Sews

Watching and enjoying what you are all doing, however have no inclination to make a dress myself.
I like to have one dress I can wear for things but bought one from Joe Browns which I will now wear to every party or night out for the foreseeable future.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK


Ladies how your dresses are coming along? I ended up getting silk crepe de chine 16 mm as lining. Glad I did, its texture is smooth and has wonderful hand and it will add some weight to my weightless chiffon.  My dress is coming along ok, but very slow. Dress took 6 yards of fabric. I prepped chiffon for cutting and it shrunk from 145 cm width to 127 cm. Crazy.Today was cutting and sewing lining. Here is my lining next to the dress's skirt.

Project Dress 003 by Irina, on Flickr


Irina, the lining looks a perfect match! Can't wait to see the finished dress.

I have been preoccupied with other things, and the dress is just  percolating in the background. I am back to thinking about the wool, as it will coordinate with my SWAP plans. I'm feeling very torn between what I want to make and what I need to make, and what I have time for!


Oh I forgot to update here.  I made the wearable muslin.  Want to wear all day to be sure it stays comfy and doesnt need any final modifications.  Im on my IPAD and cant copy the image or post addy. Sometimes I truly hate this th8ng. :plbtt:


Bev - what a smart idea!  The wear test.

Irina - oh, that looks like such a beautiful match on the lining. 

Wendy, excited to see what pattern you decided on.  I do like that metamorphic dress on you... and the new pattern you linked to as well. Decisions, decisions.

Stephanie, I think I like the top pattern - I am always drawn to structured lines, so that could just be my bias showing, but it really has a lot of design interest.

Yay, IndigoTiger - I am trying to envision a peter pan collar and button band on your popover dress.  It sounds super fun.

BinMI... I am intrigued by the Casmeretti Rivermont dress.  What a great classic dress!  Several of the ones I saw when googling were done is lovely prints.  I loved the plain ones too, as the seam lines are interesting.

Ruthie - My life is going to get even more busy and crazy in the coming weeks soI will be with you in the balcony enjoying everyone's sewing.

We have six more weeks!   DragonLady, will be able to open a gallery for folks posting their three photos December 16th?


CCL: It's really nice of you to organize this when you are so busy and I enjoyed your comments about everyone's projects. I am finally in a lull after a very busy period, so I am going to take advantage of it to finally sew something to wear at Christmas. I also favour the first dress, although I made the mistake of buying a vintage Vogue pattern today that might take its place. :( Tricky tricky.

Irina: That is simply lovely! I can't wait to see the final dress.

sdBev: The wear test is of course the best. Muslins always seem like a drag to make but they are so important.

Wendy: I feel exactly the same way most of the time about what I need to make, want to make and especially what I have time for. :)

That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. ― Willa Cather, My Ántonia