Ellen, I have a double cloth loden coat that was made in Germany many many years ago. All the seams were finished with a suede trim (in matching loden green of course) which made it very easy when I went to shorten it this past winter. It had been languishing in the closet for years since it was too warm as a long coat for our climate. I saved every scrap of trim and simply reused it. It was buttery soft and very easy to sew through. And like Susan said, this cloth could be split. My coat was not reversable so it had a conventional hem and the sleeves only were lined so the coat would slide on and off easily. That is something to think about when you make your jacket. As for a collar, my now jacket, has a hood.