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Author Topic: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?  (Read 2258 times)

marciae

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #35 on: March 09, 2018, 04:48:38 PM »

Sorry - using the paper pattern make sure your seams are the same length - put them together and 'walk' with your fingers making sure you match the length of the seams.  Different sizes will probably be different lengths,  HTH
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bessiecrocker

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #36 on: March 09, 2018, 06:34:06 PM »

you will need to walk the side seams at some point, like Marciae says. If you were changing to a smaller size, you'd need to do it sooner rather than later. I suggest you do NOT move to a smaller size, because it's pretty close now. Top part is too big, calf part might be just a bit too small. Back of thighs is really big. Rest of leg is pretty close. So you might as well stick with what you have and fix it. Once you perfect this compare your muslin with original pattern and figure out if it might be easier to start with a smaller size in the back and be sure to walk the side seams.

If you narrow the waist, remember that it will need to be big enough to pass across your hips. Elastic waist.  Before you baste this smaller at the top, bring the top down to your hips and see how much smaller you can go. You may have to live with extra in the waist in order to give you enough room around the hips. Waist to hip differential! Just our bad luck, body wise.
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Sizun

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #37 on: March 09, 2018, 09:10:06 PM »

Thank you for explaining Marciae !



If you narrow the waist, remember that it will need to be big enough to pass across your hips. Elastic waist.  Before you baste this smaller at the top, bring the top down to your hips and see how much smaller you can go. You may have to live with extra in the waist in order to give you enough room around the hips. Waist to hip differential! Just our bad luck, body wise.

One benefit of sitting the waist band below my natural waist will be to decrease this differential  8)
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Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #38 on: March 09, 2018, 10:00:06 PM »

No walking the seams is after you've done lots of alterations you measure along the pattern pieces where the pieces will be sewn together to check they will still fit together. You can do with the tape measure or just a piece of string.
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AnnetteB

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #39 on: March 09, 2018, 10:41:27 PM »

Here's my method for walking the seams. I find it best to lay one pattern piece on top of the other and physically compare the seam ON THE STITCHING LINE. (My pattern paper is see-through so this makes it easy.) As I move up the seam, I keep the fingers of my left hand on the seam line and use my right hand to gently manoeuvre the top pattern piece so that seam lines stay lined up. I hope this is clear.

Sarah Veblen advised me to make any adjustment at the waistline - reduce the side seam on one pattern by half the difference and increase the side seam on the other pattern piece by half the difference and length of side seams  will now be equal.
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Annette
near Gladstone, Queensland, Australia

bessiecrocker

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #40 on: March 09, 2018, 11:03:28 PM »

now this is driving me crazy. I am trying to figure out the French word for this. It's an idiom in English, so you can't directly translate it. Sizun, if you figure this out in French, tell me the term for it; I can't find it in any of my French sewing books.

It's a method for making sure that the length of your stitching lines on different pattern pieces are identical, espcially after you have made changes to one or both of the pieces.
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Sizun

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #41 on: March 10, 2018, 07:35:24 AM »

Ruthie and AnnetteB, thank you for the additional information. Annette, my method is the same as yours, i.e. gently moving the see-through pattern pieces along the stitching line. I do this sometimes but just didn't know this action had a name  ;D

Bessie, I have no idea what the french would be for this. This may be why I didn't understand what "walking the seam" meant. I suppose we would just say "make sure the stitching lines are the same length" "vérifier que les lignes de couture ont la même longueur". But I haven't read many sewing books, most of what I know I learnt from my mother and sewing magazines/envelope pattern instructions. I own only one sewing book by Burda that compliments their sparse pattern instructions.
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bessiecrocker

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #42 on: March 10, 2018, 08:37:36 AM »

you're making me feel better about my french. I've been improving my sewing French by trying to figure this out...have learned all sorts of obscure terminology that I will rarely need.

Here is an example of what you are trying to end up with at the back of your thighs:



in case image is not clickable, more info and original source:

https://withmyhandsdream.com/2017/11/29/the-quest-for-the-well-fitting-trousers/
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AnnetteB

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #43 on: March 10, 2018, 10:55:35 AM »

Thank you so much bessiecrocker for sharing the link to this blogpost. I am off to the sewing room to start working on my next pants and feeling very optimistic.
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Annette
near Gladstone, Queensland, Australia

bessiecrocker

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #44 on: March 10, 2018, 11:07:10 AM »

I just read a bit more of her blog. she has more pix on another post.



can't remember how to make clickable images. comes from here

https://withmyhandsdream.com/2017/11/30/from-a-trouser-sloper-to-narrow-stretch-ones/

I took a really good pant fitting course last fall and learned this trick. Totally works on my body.
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bessiecrocker

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #45 on: March 10, 2018, 11:13:51 AM »

gotta add this about that blog. it has a great list of Finnish to English sewing terms. You never know when you might need that!

https://withmyhandsdream.com/ompelun-suomi-englanti-sanakirja/
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vtmartha

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #46 on: March 10, 2018, 12:21:27 PM »

Thanks for the link to the blog, Bessie.  I wasn’t familiar with it and I like her chatty style.  And who knows, if you use Ottobre patterns, you may be glad to have access to Finnish sewing terms.
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AnnetteB

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #47 on: March 10, 2018, 12:25:12 PM »

Thanks again bessiecrocker for the second link. I will pass on the Finnish.....
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Annette
near Gladstone, Queensland, Australia

Sizun

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #48 on: March 10, 2018, 12:56:40 PM »

Thank you for the picture and for the link to this blog. I hope I'll have time to try this this week end, and if it works, it might help to salvage  gabardine trousers I tried to make last month.
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marciae

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #49 on: March 10, 2018, 01:43:52 PM »

Bessie  thanks for the link
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Garden Girl

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Re: Critique : do I need to make a flat seat adjustment ?
« Reply #50 on: March 10, 2018, 05:33:08 PM »

Kiitos Bessie.  ;)
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