As a beginner sewist I wanted to start with this easy projecthttp://www.diksi.es/es/producto/101/
but it's turning out to be a fitting nightmare!
The fabric is a double knit.
After I cut and basted the pieces and tried it on, I saw that it makes this wrinkle at the backhttp://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/46758/1
It seems that I need a sway back alteration.
I really don't want to create a center back seam as there is none in the original dress I'm trying to knock off. So I wanted to try this alteration http://www.fitthat.com/swayback.htm
that apparently can be transferred to the fabric on the fold, but I failed to understand it.
Instead I tried this alterationhttp://repository.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/87754/pdf_695.pdf?sequence=1
but I'm starting to realize that it creates a center back seam. Am I right?
This is what happens when I try to transfer this altered back pattern to the fabric:
- I fold the fabric,
- I place the central point of the neckline right on top of the foldline, and then place the central point of the hem right on top of the foldline,
- you will see a triangle of fabric uncovered by the pattern: the vertical side of the triangle is the new foldline of the fabric; the other two sides of the triangle are the "elbow" created by the former foldline of the pattern
What am I supposed to do with this triangle of fabric? I have two options:
A) Not cutting it out and leaving it there. That keeps the back of the dress seamless, but creates and excess of width at the waist, which I'm afraid will reproduce the sway back wrinkle problem. Plus, not cutting the fabric out will shorten the length of the dress at the back, and I would have to add some length at the hem.
B) Cutting it out. This preserves the waist perimeter and the original length of the dress, but forces me to cut the pieces on the bias, plus it creates the center back seam that I was trying to avoid. However, at this point I'm so desperate to finish the d**n dress that I'd do anything.
Can anyone help me here? If I keep this alteration, should I go for A (not cutting the triangle out) or B (cutting it out)? Or could anyone explain to me the other alteration that I didn't understand (http://www.fitthat.com/swayback.htm
Thank you very much in advance!