Recent Posts

Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
91
Love those pockets, Terri!  I've been searching a bit to try to locate a "how to" for recreating.  Nothing so far, but I will continue to search.
92
Patterns and Instructions / Re: Butterick vs. Butterick
« Last post by sdBev on June 24, 2016, 06:20:02 PM »

Well, I think it's because they all think we are pretty much all idiots these days and wouldn't be able to handle it. There is less "slop" factor in sewing in a sleeve like this. Look at the proliferation of Kimono and cut on sleeves. Apparently we are not capable of too much fitting finesse.
Good points.  I think we can handle the issues if we had a clear fitting process.  Our biggest issue is time.  Most of us cant devote 40 hours to sew a garment only to throw it in the trash.
93
Machine Embroidery / Re: M.E. without top Hoop
« Last post by sdBev on June 24, 2016, 06:11:01 PM »
thanks for the clarification....so if I'm just laying the "towel" on the sticky stabilizer, how to I get the placement right?
my hoops have center marks on each side.  using a pencil or disappearing ink, I draw lines connecting the marks.  It makes a big Plus sign frequently called centering lines..  I determine where I want my design and draw centering lines on the towel with disappearing ink or chalk.  Place the towel on the hoop aligning the centering lines.

Cindy give it a try.  you'll have more questions.  that's OK.  come back and ask.  If you give it a go, the process will make more sense. 
94
Machine Embroidery / Re: M.E. without top Hoop
« Last post by JuneBug on June 24, 2016, 06:08:30 PM »
I've not ever had a problem with misalignment by not hooping the actual fabric, but I always baste and that might make a big difference.  I once did a batiste christening gown and I did hoop that fabric as it was so lightweight it hooped nicely. 

I don't know if I can explain my placement method clearly, but I'll give it a go.  I use the same process for most embroidery whether it's bath towels with toppers, linen placemats, or cotton shoe bags.  It works for me and my machine.  You might have to experiment with lots of methods to find something that works for you and your machine.

I do NOT take the hoop out of the machine during the following process.

1. Hoop the stabilizer and put the hoop in the machine.
2. Use the basting outline option and stich the basting lines on the hooped stabilizer- this gives an exact location. 
(If you want to make step 4 below really easy, lay a piece of thin paper- doctor or tracing - on top of stabilizer before stitching basting lines.  Carefully remove the inside rectangle and you have a perfect pattern of your basting area.) 
3. Place the needle at the first stitch point of the design so you know where the design will start inside the basting outline - actually measure it if you don't trust eyeballing it. Measure the basting line distances.  You can either leave the hoop in position near the presser foot, or move it to park.  I usually leave it in position so there's less movement after placing the fabric.
4. Mark the design start point on the fabric and then measure out the basting lines.  Most times you can just fold the fabric to get a crease line to mark the basting line.  Usually I only need to fold two lines that meet at a corner.  (Or, you can just use that handy little rectangle of paper if you did that in step 2.)
5. Fold the fabric at the basting lines/folds and line it up with the same basting lines on the hooped stabilizer.
6. Hold the fabric firmly in place while you gently unfold it.  You could use an adhesive to help hold the fabric here if you want.
7. Top with topper if using one.
8. Baste again through all layers.
9. Stitch out design.

It looks more complicated than it is.  It may work for you, or you may find some other fabulous method and will share that with us. 

Best of Luck!

95
Tools and Notions / Re: Dressforms / Dummy
« Last post by sdBev on June 24, 2016, 06:02:31 PM »
...I just don't fit things on her so closely as I once did.
Lol  I dont fit anything as tightly anywhere anymore.
96
I am so enjoying your email messages, Louise! Like a mini trunk show. The fabrics are wonderful for this hot weather. Martha
97
Machine Embroidery / Re: M.E. without top Hoop
« Last post by Pina on June 24, 2016, 04:24:28 PM »
I always use a wash-away topper on terry towels.I like to use a basting stitch,not temporary adhesive spray,if I don't have to.  ;) Embroidering is not a cheap hobby,(where we live everything is more expensive). There are different quality stabilizers and wash away stabilizers. I learned a long time ago to get good results I have to use good quality tools.  ;D Where I worked once,(not sewing garments), I was told to use shortcuts and - hammer bent needles straight.I took a chance and rather got fired than do that.No,I didn't get fired !  :grinning:  And I didn't have to beg for each new needle and punch anymore - I got a box with 100 new needles and a box with 100 new punches instead.  :grinning:

Embroidery Library has picture tutorials............”Most towels can be hooped; but, I've been known to wrestle with the really thick ones. If you're struggling with hooping a thick towel, perhaps there's a thinner version available in a local store. Or, you can use one of the creative alternatives above (Cozy Bath Coordinates, or Embroidered Candle theory) to add embroidery to a towel without struggling with the hoop.”

Fabrics 101:
Embroidering on Terrycloth Towels.........“The result is beautiful! You may notice a ring where the hoop was -- that will come out in the wash.” Embroidering on Terrycloth Towels YouTube video.

Hooping 101: How to Hoop Towels........."There are a couple of problem areas, as you can see.  In the circled area, the top stitches aren't covering up the understitching. This is because the top of the towel is wiggling back and forth, as it's not held in place by the hoop.



When the fabric is only secured at the bottom, then the top of the fabric is wiggling around as the hoop is moving back and forth. And that's when you see things fall out of alignment."
 
 "Floating," or hooping the stabilizer only,can result in stitches being misaligned."

 Fabrics 101 Articles....including Embroidering on Waffle Weave.
98
Magazines / Re: Vogue Patterns Magazine
« Last post by Ann C on June 24, 2016, 02:59:03 PM »
That is right, Sewsy, but Manuela's is more detail rich and a lot prettier than the VPM one.  We can always depend on Manuela for all those luscious details!
99
SG Auction and Yard Sale Info / A few rarities for you Singer fanatics!
« Last post by Barnyard on June 24, 2016, 02:54:47 PM »
Hi all. I have been having a bit of a sort out and come across some rather hard to find and sought after attachments for vintage Singers.

First up is something for the Free Motion lovers amongst us. It is an original feed dog cover plate in stunning condition with the inclusion of 2 x Spring needle clamps. It fits the 66, 99, 185, 275 series of machines and basically allows you to darn and embroider on your straight stitch Singer. Detailed Photos : http://extraimago.com/album/aRm I am looking for around 25 GBP plus postage costs.

Secondly here are some very rare items!!  :o  Stoppax Darner fitment with original instruction booklet. Mordella Embroidery fitment with original instructions and the original bag the sale came in. Stoppax Hemstitcher fork that is like new. These are perfect for the 221k owner who would like to try some free motion work. They are in superb condition and seeing just one for sale is becoming rare, to see all 3 at once is a once in a blue moon occurance. Detailed Photos: http://extraimago.com/album/aRi For the whole collection I am looking around the 80 GBP plus postage costs.

I have listed them on eBay but I thought I would offer them here to members as they are on the UK site and a lot of you are the other side of the pond. The postage costs should anyone be interested will be worked out to the penny by me taking them to the post office and having the package weighed then letting you know how much it will be.

Any questions please feel free to ask and feel free to laugh at my attempt at free motion embroidery!!  ;D ;D
100
Patterns and Instructions / Re: Butterick vs. Butterick
« Last post by bessiecrocker on June 24, 2016, 02:32:44 PM »

... Talbot's jacket .... I wonder ... if the sleeves are indeed two piece, or one. Since it's a summer jacket and unlined, in a drapey crepe blend, I'm thinking that the sleeves may indeed be one piece. If I thought that contacting customer service would yield any results, I'd ask; but I don't think that they'd have that kind of information on hand.

I have had many Talbot's jackets in the last decade/s? ...none had a two piece sleeve. No, sorry, I just went through the closet. I have one summer jacket from Talbot's with a two piece sleeve. I bought it s-e-v-e-r-a-l years ago. Do call customer service. They are good, and will usually be able to go look at the jacket itself. You may, however,  need to explain what a two piece sleeve looks like. :)

I tried to figure out the real construction differences between your two Butterick jackets. One seems to have princess seams and the back seam and vent that you mention. The other seems to have a one piece front, simple one piece back, AND the fake? two piece sleeve?? Pockets are just minor details... Is the length of the shawl collar more or less the same?
Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Gorgeous Fabrics Fabric Mart Fabrics Cutting Line Designs Patterns
The Smuggler's Daughter Fabric Buttons Patterns Style Arc Sewing Patterns Sailrite Home Sewing Catalog
Sewing Made Easy with the Lutterloh System Thread Theory Advertise on SG! It's Easy!