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December 11, 2019, 02:17:36 pm


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Recent posts

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SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by Susan in Saint John - December 01, 2019, 05:34:34 pm
I have learned to prefer sewing this way.  Thread tracing the seam lines is more accurate and then you can make decisions about the best seam allowance later.  The wider seam allowance are there if you need to refine the fit because some fabrics need more ease and others less.  They often press open better too before you trim them.

I hand baste seams too.  It took me a while to get my head around that basting often actually saves time [less ripping out].  It's much easier to sew a basted seam than to stop and start every time you need to remove a pin.  I prefer setting linings by hand too rather than bagging them by machine.

Will you underline?
SWAP 2020 / Re: Paris in November?
Last post by Susan in Saint John - December 01, 2019, 05:02:53 pm
Now the tough question is what will I do for a new technique?  As I've been sewing for decades, there is not a whole lot I haven't tried.  I would like to improve my bias facings as I haven't mastered getting them to lay perfectly flat.  Welt pockets with a zipper in trousers is something that I've not tried so that may be my new technique.  As I work away on SWAP, I may come up with something else.

The extent of my plan is to basically make bottoms and tops from a group of fabrics from stash which coordinate with my LFJ and develop a TNT trouser pattern and a TNT top pattern with sleeves.  Completing that by April 30 would make me very happy as would a trip to Paris in November.
SWAP 2020 / Re: Paris in November?
Last post by Susan in Saint John - December 01, 2019, 04:54:27 pm
A lot of what I wear is lagenlook.  This doesn't necessarily work so well with the theme jacket. However, trousers with bottom details like some of the Sewing Workshop patterns or Marcy Tilton patterns will work.  Mostly elastic waist and pockets are essential features.  As this will be a travel wardrobe, I'll be making security pockets copied from some Tilley men's pants.  I don't have a TNT pant pattern so some trouser muslins will be required.

I think that knee length tunics with hem interest may work with the jacket and trousers.  I made a Lynn Mizono https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/designer/lynn-mizono test garment and I think I can morph the skirt onto the Springfield top [add sleeves?]

I am going to build on my TNT Springfield Top as the jacket is warm enough that sleeveless tops will work and some of the pieces of fabric from stash may not be long enough for sleeves.  Developing a TNT top with sleeves is one of my priorities and SWAP will be an incentive to do this.  I would also like to make the Harrison Shirt [another Cashmerette pattern].
SWAP 2020 / Paris in November?
Last post by Susan in Saint John - December 01, 2019, 04:36:45 pm
The theme of my proposed SWAP is 11 garments suitable for a real or imaginary visit to Paris in November 2020.  The inspiration is a garment that I made almost 20 years ago which is a bit of an orphan.  It is a Chanel styled jacket made in a Susan Khalje "Little French Jacket" course in Halifax in 2005.  And yes, it still fits me!  It's a wool tweed/boucle in various warm browns [dark chocolate to caramel] with some red in it.

This jacket will be a garment made before the start of SWAP 2020.  My plan is that it will go with all of the other garments in the SWAP.

The second garment made before the start of SWAP will be a Loes Hinse Italian Blouse made from the same fabric as the lining of the jacket.  I am planning on changing the buttons on this blouse to self-covered as I'm not happy with the current plastic buttons.  This blouse was made several years ago and it is also a bit of an orphan.

The remaining 9 garments will be a combination of trousers and tops.  Although a dress and/or a second jacket/vest are possibilities.

I plan to sew from stash.  The coordinating fabrics that I have on hand include 2 pieces of menswear suiting for trousers.  One is the darkest brown in the jacket and the other is a medium brown.  I do have another rusty brown which would work for trousers but it is heavier and would need to be lined as it's a bit scratchy.  This might work for winter at home but would be too hot for Paris.  I also have some linen.  I have several pieces of silk dupioni for tops or perhaps trousers.  I have a piece of caramel silk charmeuse and a piece of caramel Thai silk for tops/shirts.  I have a length of kind of striped Bali Batik rayon which could work for tops or a dress.  I also have a piece of red flecked with peach wool blend which could be a jacket.  I do have some RTW in my closet which coordinate.

The available fabrics would be dressier than I'd usually wear at home but would work for a big city trip or for some activities at home.
I have traced one piece of my pattern. It is now 1st December. I have a few choir events and Christmas parties, plus working and getting people Christmas presents so not sure how much sewing time there will be. Hmmm.
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by sewsy - December 01, 2019, 10:25:55 am
Quote from: sewsy on November 22, 2019, 07:46:24 amCCL, hope you and BH will be feeling better soon. I'm still in ruminatin' mode, pulled out two woven wools for the boyfriend jacket idea; one a dark cobalt blue (the wrong side is navy, which would be more to my liking) and a black. Although I don't really want to do a black jacket, I'm leaning more and more towards it.

what may wind up happening is that I do two. One in black wool and one in a beige tweed (one of my first wool purchases) that I got from JoAnns a looooong time ago. It's a tweed wool/silk blend, and I got it back then thinking that it'd make a great jacket. Still do. It'll be fun to finally sew it up.

Well, I think I've hit on what my new technique will be. I've always wanted to do a bona fide tailored garment the way Roberta Carr did in one of her videos. She thread- traced the seam allowances, and I've always wanted to do that. I don't think that I'll do hand tailoring throughout, I will use fusibles, but some techniques I'd like to try are more in line with traditional ways.

Still ruminatin', but the ideas are getting more and more cohesive.
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by Susan in Saint John - November 30, 2019, 11:22:42 am
Cashmerette's Springfield Top is another candidate for a silk camisole https://www.cashmerette.com/products/springfield-top-pdf-pattern especially if it eliminates a full bust adjustment for you.  You can eliminate the back yoke and the bottom band.  There is a related course which I found quite useful last summer. https://workshops.cashmerette.com/p/pattern-hacking-for-curves-1-top-10-ways

I am still not ready to commit to SWAP 2020 but this is a pattern I would almost certainly include.
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by Philippa - November 30, 2019, 09:17:53 am
Alexandra Morgan of InHouse Patterns goes into the topic of swayback adjustments in her usual forensic fashion in this video -
Yay Wendy!

I have done absolutely nothing and am feeling rather guilty, but this always happens to me at this time of year and I had the added distraction of my partner being here over the last week and a half. I have no excuse not to get started this weekend, although my eye started to wander and I am having a hard time not starting a pair of pants I want!

@indigotiger, I have no idea how I missed that stunning jacket, but I am in awe! I love it! I am so impressed.
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by Morzel - November 29, 2019, 09:52:19 am
@Seaglass I usually just true the seam in the back when doing a swayback adjustment. It does shorten the seam even a bit more and adds a bit of fullness. But depending on how much you took out horizontally, it will not show. You could add darts, if there is too much fullness.
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