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February 24, 2020, 04:50:25 am

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21
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by CCL - February 20, 2020, 06:22:26 am
Stephanie - even a white or black might not look too bad - mostly  darkening or lightening the green.  Colors might change the hue of the green.  You are smart to make up a couple samples to see what you are most happy with. GraceNZ, I hadn't even thought about the bubbling...you are right.  Someone here at Stitchers' Guild turned me on to the quality fusibles at Fashion Sewing Supply and I haven't looked back since.  Fzxdoc also suggested Apple Annie's for a very lightweight fusible for block fusing interfacing. I bought some for the pink jacket I am hoping to make and it looks wonderful, but I haven't actually used it yet.

Stephanie, also thank you for the nice comments on the in progress coat.  I am feeling a little more positive about it today.  I ended up doing a good bit of the understitching by hand (back neck, top and bottom of fronts), which I hadn't planned on.  I rechecked sleeve length, and though I trimmed a bit too much of one, I think I am going to be all right.

Like many of us, I have a good number of books on tailoring, but I keep going back to my Singer Tailoring jackets and coats.  If you don't have it, it might be worth looking into.  It shows three methods, traditional tailoring, machine, and "modern" - which has the added benefit of letting you see and compare the different techniques.

Because of your question about wigan-precut bias canvas basically - (a year ago now?), I have been more conscious of where I use it and why.  I will try to add that info to my Flicker album on the coat and not clutter up the discussion here.

Mahgret, your rehearsal dinner fabric is beautiful - it's definitely fiesta ware red!  A rolled hem looks so elegant in chiffon.

Okay,this was way too much typing on a tablet. I will correct typos later!
22
SWAP 2020 / Re: PatternReview "Sewing Bee"
Last post by Lisanne - February 20, 2020, 03:08:16 am
Here is the result of Round 3 - activewear.
https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=2630655
The winner has come up with a quite astonishing amount of ingenuity about special design features and number of garments made using different specialist fabrics, and in such a short time.  The special needs of her activity do raise a number of design problems which she has obviously been thinking about for a while.

Happily the fruit canner got through to the final round, tho not the sewist.

The final challenge - 'you' outfit for a TV interview
https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=2630851
goodness, to me that is an easier idea than usual
though several contestants are having difficulty because it's so open.

Has to be finished by Thursday Feb 27, then the Round 4 winner and overall winner will be announced on Monday March 2nd.

Quote from: warpjr1965 on February 17, 2020, 08:14:50 pmI have to say I find this competition difficult to follow, or maybe its that the challenges aren't following a logical (in my mind) progression. Just seems all over the map to me, but I guess that is not so different from the GBSB.
To my mind that's deliberate - the people who get through to the final round need to be able to display a wide range of skills and garment types !
23
SWAP 2020 / Re: Indigotiger's Misty Mornin...
Last post by indigotiger - February 20, 2020, 12:25:12 am
The challenge of learning how to make the tower placket turned out very successfully, and I shall be able to use that technique on other future projects. If it was possible in the very thick cotton flannel, it will definitely be easier in thinner fabric. All that still remains is to finish the cuffs, and make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons...


That will have my SWAP sewing just a bit more than half done. I really need to start on a toile for the canvas chore coat soon; for some reason I always feel reluctant to take on a "deal with fitting" project, even though I know that once I get underway, the results will be well worth it...
24
SWAP 2020 / Re: Noum's Vertical Variations
Last post by Noum - February 20, 2020, 12:09:38 am
I mentionned in my original plan that I was going to try using David Kibbe's approach to creating Head to Toe outfits, which includes making outfits that are very specific to a situation. thinking about the details of the situation is supposed to help you create a much better HTT effect. I think 3-4 situations should get me to the required number of garments. This may not be the final lineup, but for now the situations that I would like to cover are the following:

1) Going to the gym/working out: I gained a lot of weight quickly when I went through several difficulties in the last couple of years. I am feeling better now but my body has changed in ways which I hope are not permanent. Because I am much more self conscious of my shape than before, I feel like having an outfit/outfit formula that makes me feel good would probably help making more motivated to do the actual work that is needed to regain my former level of fitness.I need to do some weight training and cycling to rehabilitate my right knee, which has had 4 ligaments replaced and really doesn't function the way it used to. I want to use bright upbeat colors so that I feel happier and more enthusiastic. Because of the self conscious thing I probably will use a looser fitting layer on top of leggings and a fitted top. I want to use the same fabric for the leggings and fitted top, and possibly use a subtle colorblocking. I want the looser layer to pick up the colors of the leggings/top fabric, which has a geometric patterns that includes pink, blue, violet, sage green and pale chartreuse yellow. I am thinking the color repetition/continuity will be the main thing that creates a vertical effect here.

2) Work: I work from home as a massage therapist, posture analyst and movement coach. The room is always kept fairly warm because my clients don't have tons of clothes on, but the rest of my living space is cooler. I need an outfit that allows maximum mobility, modesty, yet allows clients to see my own movements clearly if I model something that I want them to be able to do accurately afterwards. To be honest an outfit that I would wear to the gym could probably be used for work, but I tend to favor slim legs pants in stretch fabrics and short/cap sleeve blouses that are a bit loose. Or sometimes leggings with a longer tunic. I cannot have sleeves that are longer than elbow length for practical reason, but I need a warmer long sleeve layer that I can throw on when I leave the room. I would like to use the Jalie Eleonore jeans pattern in light grey stretch denim, and a fairly light pink or peach top with cap sleeves, and the Pattern Emporium My Embrace cardi as a warm layer. This last pattern I just muslined in maxi length, but I will probably use knee length for this. Here the fabrics will be different colors but a similar level of intensity, and I am hoping to find a top pattern that has a strong vertical element in the design itself. Maybe via an asymmetrical detail, the length, or something. I haven't quite figured that one out. The coccon cardigan creates a strong vertical as soon as I put it on, but I would like the verticality to be present when I don't wear the cardigan as well.

3) Semi-casual get together with friends: Here I want something that gives me an opportunity to dress up a bit more, but since my life and friends are pretty casual, it will not be super fancy. If I can get my act together and figure out a nice jumpsuit for myself, that would be an absolute win, as I feel that ultimately if I master the jumpsuit, I would probably start wearing for work all the time and feel fabulous way more often. Well, in theory they would make me feel fabulous if they are well fitted and done in beautiful fabrics... I have a magnificent border print I would love to use for this. It's a kind of athletic knit that is a nice cool beige with giant navy and charcoal flowers on one side, and feels fancy even though it is an activwear fabric. Because I like the idea of maxi dresses, I think I would go for a wide leg maxi, to give me maximum long dress feeling, but with the complete freedom of pants. Probably sleeveless or with a cut on sleeve. If the jumpsuit doesn't quite work, or maybe in addition to it, some kind of midi or maxi dress with a very fluid feeling would be nice. Something that doesn't restrict movement, free and sexy in an understated way. I need another cardi to go over this for sure, again probably fairly long and fluid.

4) is not a situation but a circumstance that requires my goes-with-everything piece: rainy, cold or windy weather! Should I need to walk outside in any of these outfits when the weather is less pleasant, I need a coat that will go nicely over any of the previous outfits. I already bought the fabric for this, an amazing technical shell fabric that drapes well, is waterproof  but highly breathable, has a wonderful texture on the right side, and is a versatile silver/beige color. I am also terrified to ruin this fabric, and while I started a muslin for a coat in December, I haven't touched it since. I need to do a muslin in a thicker fabric actually, my first one was from old sheets and really doesn't give me a good sense of how it fits over other clothing. I'm mostly considering two Silhouette patterns for this, either the Trench Coat, or Meghan's coat.
25
SWAP 2020 / Re: Mahgret's Choose Joy Fiest...
Last post by mahgret - February 19, 2020, 10:14:47 pm
Also, I got a new tv and a wall mount for the sewing room.  I can watch Bluprint on there and I have been enjoying watching quilting videos while I sew. (not really SWAP related but a happy addition to my sewing room)
26
SWAP 2020 / Re: Mahgret's Choose Joy Fiest...
Last post by mahgret - February 19, 2020, 10:11:10 pm
I just need to do the hems on the skirt and sleeves and the SWAP diversion dress for my nephew's wedding is done.  So then I started thinking that I wanted a nice new blouse for the rehearsal dinner.  I wandered through my stash and found a really pretty chiffon and I decided to give it a go.  I suspect the fabric will match my red dishes so it might make sense to include it in SWAP.

IMG_4857 by Maggie, on Flickr

I have never sewn with chiffon, and I plan to make what they are calling a couture dart I found in one of my sewing books, suggested for darts in sheers.  I also might have a go at a rolled hem.  I am going to research buttonholes in chiffon.

I am working on including extra garments so that I can have options on what to include and also so that if a garment is not working out I can abandon things.
27
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by stephaniecan - February 19, 2020, 09:09:56 pm
Thanks, @CCL , @GraceNZ: I bought some fine fusible over the weekend, but I agree that it would be a shame to not go whole hog when I have come this far! Now I need to dig into the stash to find some organza in a suitable colour. A few years back I bought a bunch of different shades of organza and every now and then I come across a piece and wonder, "What garment did I have in mind when I bought this?!"

@CCL Your coat looks beeeeaaautiful! I love it. I may have some future questions about the interfacing on my upcoming coat project. I have some hair canvas and am quite keen to use some traditional tailoring techniques, but was also wondering if I should use fusible for the facings and a smaller piece of hair canvas around the collar, or just do the whole thing the traditional way. :) I've read so much about jacket tailoring in the past and really have not done any. I'm looking forward to this.
28
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by GraceNZ - February 19, 2020, 08:23:41 pm
Everyone's SWAPs look fantastic- clearly I have found them inspiring ;)

Stephanie: I would be worried about the fusible bubbling under the silk, so I second silk organza for the cuffs. The shirt looks amazing.
29
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by CCL - February 19, 2020, 08:04:22 pm
Stephanie:  re your question about the cuffs on the silk blouse - I'd go for the silk organza - and since you've done so much hand sewing on the blouse already, it would be consistent... and in my opinion, just a little more couture than the fusible.  But of course, just my two cents.
30
SWAP 2020 / Re: SWAP 2020 general discussi...
Last post by stephaniecan - February 19, 2020, 07:44:53 pm
I'm really enjoying being able to check in and see what people are up to. Nice to see new or quieter voices as well: Interesting theme, @Noum and gorgeous photos @GraceNZ for the Santorini SWAP!
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