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Critiques / Re: Forward shoulder joint - sleeve twist
« Last post by Garden Girl on Today at 01:55:27 AM »
Thanks Betsy, I had no idea what the pattern designer intended. Never heard of this one before. Here's the photo. Click for big version. Now that we know what was intended  ;D, we know that the broad shoulder adjustment is correct. But Hilda, you might still benefit from minor adjustments at the top of the sleeve on some garments. That PDF was new to me. I've actually done something sort of different that doesn't change the sleeve too much. It involves some slashing down near the girth line on that PDF, so it adds where the pull lines are, much closer to the base of the armscye. It's been years since I've done it. I've lost a lot of weight and my shoulders are getting knobby again, so I'm needing to relearn a lot of old tricks. I'm trying to find how to do it in print for you but no luck so far. If I find it I'll let you know. I need it for me too!

BTW, I have purchased RTW with this sort of styleline and have a pattern that is not so extreme. With the sleeves right it is very flattering on broad shoulders, turning them into a figure feature. I like the look on me.
Chatter / Munich Ho!
« Last post by shams on Today at 01:53:46 AM »
I'm in Munich right this second. I arrived after dark and it's almost 4am so I haven't seen much yet.

I'll be visiting the Trippens store  ;)  Other than that, are there any particular recommendations for non-quilting fabrics or yarn?

I'm going to see if I can make it to Yousefy. I'm here for work but I will have some time to play this weekend.
Ruthie, amazing new look in your green ensemble and your new hairdo. Somehow the bangs longer enables the hair to flow together instead of having two distinct levels. Boy, do I think  that look is flattering. I dont notice the grey, but do notice your hair is less auburn. In that green outfit, you really are beautiful today. Wear this out on the weekend for something special with DBF.

Sophisticated is how I would describe your new look.

Critiques / Re: Forward shoulder joint - sleeve twist
« Last post by DebbyA on Today at 01:34:03 AM »
I found this thread here just poking around...,24703.0.html
Patterns and Instructions / Re: Jacket Buttonhole Placement
« Last post by Morgan on Today at 01:16:37 AM »
Buttons & buttonholes are placed on the 'fitting line' (often but not always the CF or CB line)

Placement of diagonal buttonholes - Use the guidelines for vertical buttonholes when you want the centre of the button to sit in the centre of the buttonhole.  For a quirky look with the button seated at the end of the buttonhole, use the guidelines for horizontal placement ie. 3mm over the placement line

Placement guidelines still apply even for unusually shaped fitting lines - eg mariner's cuff example here

Tip: Get into the habit of auditioning and choosing the buttons for a garment before cutting out the fabric.  Even better, do the test stitching of the buttonhole for the button with the fabric, interfacing and thread before cutting, It's essential to choose the buttons and test stitch if using a thicker fabric because not only may you need to adjust the pattern for the size of the button, but may also need to include an additional allowance for turn of cloth.

Some more practical information re stitching buttonholes and attaching buttons.
It's a little bit of technical and useful information from the factory floor.

For buttons that may take strain, I like to use a a backer button (aka reinforcing button) at the back of the main button.  Same principle used for buttons when something is reversible.

How to use stabiliser to prevent buttonhole stitches sinking into the fabric

I make lots of buttonholes and often like make them into detail features.
Key is - Interface, stabilise and Test stitch to get the appropriate stitching width and density for the size of buttonhole.

A couple of techniques for sewing machine made buttonholes on hand knits (or sweater knit fabrics)  It's important to use a wider stitch and cord it rather than increase the density of the stitching.
I'd add to that using a strip of bias cut silk organza as a stabiliser which can be carefully trimmed away from the buttonhole afterwards if you don't want to use a ribbon piece of fabric on the button band.

Wrapped buttonhole technique - a solution for large, feature buttonholes with delicate threads
Critiques / Re: Forward shoulder joint - sleeve twist
« Last post by Doris W. in TN on Today at 12:36:44 AM »

First, do a wide shoulder adjustment.  The method on the link (rather than the trace & pivot method) can correct the chest width at the same time.

This is a good method and the same way it is done in the old Singer Sewing books. It works for me when I've run across some independent patterns that draft  a narrow shoulder. Try this with your pattern, make a test garment, and I think you will see a big improvement.

(The model in the link you posted above has narrower shoulders than you have. Note where the armscye seam sits at the edge of her shoulders. The broad shoulder bodice adjustment will bring it out to where the model's seams are located.)
Love the green, Ruthie and the long lines make a nice silhouette. Just a thought.....have you tried that outfit without a belt?  I am always amazed how some people look so much taller without a belt cutting them in half.  I recently bought a long (mid-calf) knit duster, for lack of a better word, with plans to belt it over slim pants.  When I tried it on with and without the belt it was obvious the unbelted won. The only reasons I bought RTW, rather than making it, I wanted to copy it to make win /win.
Critiques / Re: Forward shoulder joint - sleeve twist
« Last post by vtmartha on Today at 12:26:25 AM »
Thanks, Betsy!  Very helpful information.  There's a photo here of how it's expected to fit.
Critiques / Re: Forward shoulder joint - sleeve twist
« Last post by BetsyV on Today at 12:19:33 AM »
I don't think you want to add height to the sleeve cap. Once you make the shoulder seam longer, the sleeve as drafted should hang better.

By the way, for someone who asked, this is the J Stern tee pattern. I've made several, with and without sleeves.
Heirloom and Hand Sewing / Re: Knitting V
« Last post by sewsy on Today at 12:18:26 AM »
Kathryn, I did the same as Su, I just unraveled and wound the yarn into balls. I'd thought of soaking and drying, but it's knitting the same as if it were new.
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