Stitcher's Guild Reloaded

The Dress Challenge Contest => CCL's Dress Challenge => Topic started by: CCL on October 01, 2018, 03:15:24 PM

Title: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 01, 2018, 03:15:24 PM
 Dear Stitchers’ Guild Friends:

I saw that Medea posted a SWAP 2019 discussion thread and as a warm up to 2019 SWAP sewing, I’d like to sponsor a Dress challenge – and follow Mudcat’s lovely idea of awarding the winner(s) a little $25 gift certificate at an appropriate fabric store/site. I would supply the gift certificates; the same caveat that Mudcat provided applies, it has to be website or store to which I can set up the gift certificate for the winners.

There are two separate categories – Beginner to Intermediate and Intermediate to Advanced.  More thoughts about how you might decide which category you want to enter into are listed at the end of this message.   The important thing is that there’d be two “winners.”

The Challenge:
Make a dress (or a two piece ensemble that looks like a dress) between October 1st and December 15th 2018.   The dress can be for anyone above age 14 years – so it can be for yourself, a friend, your sister, a daughter.  I am thinking garments similar to dresses posted in Sizun’s Dress a Month thread are eligible.  Garments such as IndigoTiger’s pinafores are definitely eligible.  And, I am totally inspired to do this by Lisa’s dress a couple of years ago for her daughter.  I will try to dig out links for all of these.  Shirtdresses, coatdresses, etc. all are eligible.  No formal full length dresses, however, as their glamor gives them an unfair advantage.  No pants or jackets. 

The dress must incorporate one thing new to you.  This could be a new type of fabric – if you have never sewn velvet and you want to make a dress out of velvet, that could be the new “thing.”   It could be a pattern you’ve never made before or a technique that you haven’t attempted – such as welt pockets, underlining, invisible zipper installation – the idea is really to grow your skills – so whatever the new thing is, it will probably involve some practice or a muslin.

The Timeframe:
This is a pre-SWAP sew, so the start date is TODAY (Oct. 1st 2018) and the final date for sewing is December 15th, 2018.   We can vote while munching on holiday cookies.  Final details of voting still to be worked out.

Submitting your entry.
Three photos (Front, Back, and Side) of the finished garment on the intended recipient (this may cause some difficulties if one is sewing for someone at considerable distance).   DragonLady will be helping set this up – but ideally we could vote the same way as we do for SWAP.  Stay tuned for the details.

More about The Categories:
I have looked at a lot of skill level determinations and don’t like any of them that are based on years.  I was thinking of something like this…the idea being that if you can check off all five of the major bullets below, then you can self-define as Intermediate to Advanced and enter in that category.  If you cannot check off all five, then you can self-define as Beginner to Intermediate.  It would be up to each entrant to decide, so this list is offered as a guideline.

Questions?  Please post them here… I would like this to be fun for folks and give us an excuse to develop our skills – and also to encourage the newer sewers by having the two categories.

Finally, MODs, if I didn't do this correctly, please move my post to where is more appropriate or make other corrections as necessary.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: fzxdoc on October 01, 2018, 03:57:33 PM
This is exciting! So well thought out and presented, CCL. I hope we get a lot of participants, because it sounds like fun.

Thank you.

Kathryn
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on October 01, 2018, 06:14:52 PM
Definately exciting.  Hmm I could use a new dress for my anniversary this year...
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on October 01, 2018, 06:45:18 PM
This sounds like a great challenge, and I could certainly use a new dress... If I join in, I am going to put myself in the "intermediate to advanced" category, even though I don't actually meet the stated criteria, just because that is how I like to think of myself after sewing for over fifty years. But... for the types of materials used, and the techniques used categories, I don't quite make the cut. If I participate, my goal will be to stretch to a new technique... maybe those welt pockets I keep promising myself to learn to sew
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 01, 2018, 07:57:54 PM
Oooh, an anniversary dress.  That would be smashing, Bev!

IndigoTiger -- in my best Pirates of the Carribean voice, "these be guidelines, matey!"  - not necessarily rules - so I would think IndigoTiger, put yourself where you think your skills best fit!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: mudcat on October 02, 2018, 04:40:48 AM
I am devoid of sewing mojo at the moment.  Making a cutting/measuring error and having a failed muslin this past weekend didn't help. 

However, I still want to make this vintage vogue:
https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9280 (https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9280)

I bought two copies of the pattern some months back so I'd have a backup copy.  I will need to muslin at least the bodice since I can tell it will be problematic.  I will likely use some silk crepe de chine that's been in my stash since the 90s if I recall correctly.  I don't want a white collar however so I'm still trying to figure that part out.

I'm in the intermediate-advanced category even though I don't do most of those higher level tasks anymore.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Lisanne on October 02, 2018, 08:29:14 AM
That's a fabulous dress Mudcat, and looks like the basic shape could make a very good TNT, for dresses and for the type of jacket that is worn with little underneath.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: BinMI on October 02, 2018, 03:28:48 PM
What a great idea! I like how you divided up the skill level, I am a beginner to intermediate level, definitely more towards the intermediate side. I have several dress patterns I’ve been wanting to try, and there are many new skills I could add to my repertoire.

I don’t own a single dress but will need one for a wedding next year. I’ve been losing weight so this dress might be a stepping stone to the one I eventually make for the August 2019 event.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on October 03, 2018, 11:29:34 PM
Quote
I don't want a white collar however so I'm still trying to figure that part out.
Looking at the pattern photo and descriptions, since it says that the collar and cuffs are detachable, you might simply make the dress without them? Other options that came to my mind would be to make the collar and cuffs in lace? (possibly interfaced in silk organza for stability) or to use a coordinating embroidered fabric? I do think that the dress design is very lovely, and look forward to seeing what you do with it
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on October 04, 2018, 01:35:23 AM
Ooh I love a sewing challenge!

I am not much of a winter dress-wearer, but I'll put on my thinking cap to see if I can participate. Lovely guidelines CCL!!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sharonspils on October 04, 2018, 02:31:23 AM
Brilliant idea CCL and it might be just what I need to get the garment sewing moving along.

I would be the Intermediate to Advanced even though there are some things I have not made but there is a lot I have done.

Now I need to put on my thinking cap to see what I can come up with as I want to work with my stash so that could mean it will be a technique.

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: mudcat on October 04, 2018, 02:56:22 AM
Thank you indigo tiger.  I guess I never read the description or if I did it was so long ago I forgot it was detachable.  That might work better in my climate anyway but I have to admit the collar/sleeves do add a certain design element that I find attractive.  More to think about.

I found this on a German forum where the sewist skipped the collar. It looks fine albeit slightly less elegant than with the collar.  Still more practical for every day life.

https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/nowak/test-schnitt2018/vogue_9280_galerie_bild_moeges.jpg (https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/nowak/test-schnitt2018/vogue_9280_galerie_bild_moeges.jpg)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: JuneBug on October 04, 2018, 04:30:16 PM
This is perfect timing.  DH started a new position at work this spring, so I need to actually show up at things like company picnics and other social events.  He told me on Tuesday that we are attending a dinner on Saturday.  There will also be a holiday party in December.  Where I live, the attire at events like this can range from very nice jeans and sparkly shirts to semi-formal dresses, diamonds, and fur jackets- pretty much anything goes.  DH has requested that I make a new dress.  It's a very good thing I have tomorrow off work and Saturday as well as a closet full of fabrics to choose from.

Right now I am thinking Simplicity 2247, with view B bodice and view A sleeves.  I was thinking a solid color with some machine embroidery at the hem and sleeve ends to make it a bit more fancy.  I will probably use light weight suiting; I have navy, grey, brown, and cream in the closet.  The suiting fabric and the embroidery will give the skirt a little more body as well. 

 (https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/2247/simplicity-dresses-pattern-2247-envelope-front.jpg?width=500&height=500&upscale=false&bgcolor=ffffff)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 04, 2018, 07:45:35 PM
This is getting exciting!

I am not much of a winter dress-wearer, but I'll put on my thinking cap to see if I can participate. Lovely guidelines CCL!!

Yay, Wendy (aka warpjr1965), hope you can join us!  -- And, it doesn't have to be a winter dress - it could be a summer dress - or even a winter dress that you always wear over tights or leggings. 

it might be just what I need to get the garment sewing moving along.

Oh Sharon - hope so!   Will be fun to see what you made - your 6PACs were always so well constructed.

This is perfect timing.
Right now I am thinking Simplicity 2247, with view B bodice and view A sleeves.   I will probably use light weight suiting; I have navy, grey, brown, and cream in the closet.  The suiting fabric and the embroidery will give the skirt a little more body as well. 

 

JuneBug, that's a great dress pattern; I like the high waist - almost empire... your idea of embroidery would make it very special.   I might have to track down that pattern myself.

....this dress might be a stepping stone to the one I eventually make for the August 2019 event.

BinMI - I like that idea - "the stepping stone dress."  I am probably going to sew along as well - I am still auditioning patterns for the wool challis material, so may label my trials as the "stepping stone dresses."

Mudcat, oh gosh, another great pattern!   IndigoTiger's idea of the detachable lace is lovely - that will be some dress!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Sizun on October 05, 2018, 05:17:35 AM
Ooh I love a sewing challenge!

I am not much of a winter dress-wearer, but I'll put on my thinking cap to see if I can participate. Lovely guidelines CCL!!

I have a winter dress and skirt board (https://www.pinterest.fr/sizunbruno/winter-skirts-and-dresses/) on Pinterest if you need some inspiration  :))
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sharonspils on October 05, 2018, 06:36:07 AM
Oh CCL I think you have me confused with someone else as I wish that was me that had the co-ordinated 6 pacs, I might have planned but never made one.  I have completed 2 SWAPS 2012 and 2013 and have tried other years without success.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Melinda_B on October 05, 2018, 10:45:42 AM
I have the fabric (assuming I can find the box it's in) and a new pattern.  Only problem (other than finding the fabric) is that I had my daughter pick up the parcel with the pattern in it three weeks ago, and she keeps forgetting to put it in her car and bring it over!  Hoping to get it on Monday when she's here for dinner - have already reminded her to put it in the car!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on October 06, 2018, 01:03:44 PM
Well, I have some purple wool double knit that is waiting to become something.  I know I would not wear it as a jacket, just too much purple on my upper half, and I don't wear jackets anyway.  But, it might want to be some sort of tunic or dress.  I've got some ideas percolating.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 06, 2018, 02:04:11 PM
Oh, Sharonspils, so sorry, you are right!  My apologies.

Melinda, here's hoping you find your pattern and get your parcel with the pattern.

Wendy, a purple wool doubleknit - that sounds as if it is begging to be a warm tunic dress worn over tights or leggings.

I dug out some rayon border print to try out an idea I have...not sure it will work, but will be fun to try.  But first I have to sew up the warm polartec jacket for BH.  We've managed to lose his favorite so now he is in need - that's my project for the weekend.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Medea on October 06, 2018, 08:41:53 PM
Ooh, I love this challenge CCL. What a great idea to sew a dress before the "real" swap challenge starts (hopefully). It's time for me to go to bed now but I will read more tomorrow morning.
 :heart:
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Irina on October 07, 2018, 01:59:30 AM
I would like participate and make a dress. I understand no formal gowns rule but how about trendy maxi dresses like these?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/44424530384_be86db6eea_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aFDka3)3c261c20-56d5-4199-86f5-20f35fe7d6f8 (https://flic.kr/p/2aFDka3)  Irina (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93938498@N04/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1938/30207913137_d8cebbd51f_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N2ns9z)1fe25bc7-0387-48f2-83cd-9e9447c15e67 (https://flic.kr/p/N2ns9z) Irina (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93938498@N04/),
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Medea on October 07, 2018, 09:06:09 AM
I would like participate and make a dress. I understand no formal gowns rule but how about trendy maxi dresses like these?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/44424530384_be86db6eea_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aFDka3)3c261c20-56d5-4199-86f5-20f35fe7d6f8 (https://flic.kr/p/2aFDka3)  Irina (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93938498@N04/), on Flickr

I really like the top dress. Is there a pattern for this?
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Medea on October 07, 2018, 09:33:18 AM
I'm in this challenge and maybe it's time for me to sew a Burda Dress I had on my mind for a long time now.
I have a forest green crêpe that I want to use and I hope it's enough for the dress.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9WGqUQGhnDY/W7nOnwo_WPI/AAAAAAAAXxA/M0hWAH1KomEeEbPgCq5uCugKreMV7wKOQCLcBGAs/s1600/110-122015-Dress.png)

I know that Stephaniecan made this a couple of years ago and I loved it since.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPI5DBfzM0M/W7nPm9HWNYI/AAAAAAAAXxQ/maHgY7Iz8HUrZuCixi85w308Xra6cYVLQCLcBGAs/s320/greencrepe.jpg)

I'm in the intermediate to advanced group and hope that I can find something new and/or challenging with this dress. Maybe it's the fitting that will be most challenging. I'll think of it.

I also have an dresses inspiration board at Pinterest. You'll find it here (https://www.pinterest.fr/medeas/dresses-robes/).
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on October 07, 2018, 03:16:09 PM
I have my eye on another Metamorphic dress for winter/fall.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1768/42130818375_84f1314deb_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27bXsug)Metamorphic_croquis+(1) (https://flic.kr/p/27bXsug) by wendyr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/96520845@N03/), on Flickr

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4555/37629009634_1023f68a54_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Zk9vAb)IMG_1304 (https://flic.kr/p/Zk9vAb) by wendyr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/96520845@N03/), on Flickr

Here is the purple wool Double knit I may use. Very purple!!  I'll have to check the drape on this, the gathers may not work well if the fabric is too firm.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on October 07, 2018, 04:40:22 PM
I drool over all these gorgeous pics, but fitting me is such a difficult task that I stick with TNT’s or patterns that can be easily adapted using my TNTs.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 07, 2018, 07:08:17 PM
Great question, Irina.   Maxis should be fine.  Your first photo is similar to Mudcat's pattern - and well within the definitions of the challenge, which is really an attempt to level the playing field a little by eliminating those gorgeous show stopper evening formal gowns that could make final voting difficult.

I had to sleep on the second photo a bit and think about it, because in the photo the back of the dress is "full length," rather than maxi, though the front is not.  However, on further reflection, the dress is definitely not a formal gown.   So either of these would be okay.

Wendy, I loved your other metamorphic dress, so even more interested in seeing how this one turns out.  You are right, though, depending on how thick the doubleknit is, those gathers might be bulky.

Medea, oh, I am lusting already over your fabric.  Having just finished making a wool crepe dress, I loved the experience of working with the crepe fabric.  I have been surfing the net for more!  (Even though I am really trying hard not to buy anymore fabric until I have made up a bit.)  Really like that pattern and I also liked the Simplicity 1652 you have on your pinterest site.

Bev, Drooling over here too.  But I hear you, I like to experiment with patterns but only if using cheap fabric.  I always save the good stuff for patterns that I have made several times and worked out the kinks and fitting problems.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Irina on October 07, 2018, 08:12:47 PM
Medea, this is from Nordstrom store website - I often look up on line higher end retailers to see what are current trends and fashion. No pattern but I think it can be modified from some commercial patterns. For example from Vogue Pattern V9251  - bodice and skirt but then you have draft sleeves.  I draft my own patterns most of the time
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Irina on October 07, 2018, 08:13:47 PM

Medea, this is from Nordstrom store website - I often look up on line higher end retailers to see what are current trends and fashion. No pattern but I think it can be modified from some commercial patterns. For example from Vogue Pattern V9251  - bodice and skirt but then you have to draft sleeves.  I draft my own patterns most of the time
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: kowgiirl.up on October 08, 2018, 12:32:16 AM
Great write up CCL and fun! Thanks for taking the boat loads of time to get this organized (and the prize ain’t bad either). This certainly is something that I feel that I could do/try being a beginner/intermediate if I hadn’t committed to making jeans.


Would it be fair for a beginner to ask for help in the fitting section?  I know I would needs tons of help to pull off a dress.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 08, 2018, 02:02:31 AM
It would totally be fair..Fitting a new pattern would certainly qualify as the "new" thing (and then some!) We all need assistance -- whether it be from books, classes, instructions, or mentors -- when learning and practicing our new thing!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on October 08, 2018, 04:17:54 PM
The more I look at various techniques and materials, the less I feel like I have advanced skills, as there are so many important techniques I have never even attempted. Perhaps I am more intermediate/beginner than I realise. :embarassed: Might be time for a bit of an effort at uplift

I think I have figured out what I might sew for this challenge... one of my basic everyday dresses, but instead of a simple three-quarter sleeve gathered into a narrow edge binding, I could lengthen the sleeve and learn how to make a cuff placket. There are lots of different tutorials online, and I should be able to figure it out.  And, ifso, then it will be good preparation for SWAP, since I hope to make some actual woven blouses this year.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Turquoise on October 08, 2018, 06:44:03 PM
This is a great challenge for making you think about new things  :)

I’d like to have a go at making a velvet dress.  I’ve never sewn with velvet before for a garment.  In my first year at art college we made silk/rayon velvet Devore scarfs but they were just small things stitched by hand, so sewing a dress with it would be a new challenge.

I’m not sure if it’s the most flattering material (I have a feeling that Nancy Nix-Rice might have included it in her list of “pounds on Fabrics” in her Craftsy class ) but it is something I’ve wanted to try for a while.  I’ve seen some lovely teal and green colours on various online shops so I think I have just given myself an excuse to go online fabric shopping ;). I think I will stick to a cheaper poly velvet for my first attempt.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: JuneBug on October 09, 2018, 08:04:38 PM
I finished the dress.  I won't be entering this version, it's not nearly my best work, and I don't have a photo of it on me.

I ended up using a lovely floral print with teal flowers on a background of light to dark grays instead of the suiting w/ embroidery.  I always have grand plans and not enough time to complete them. 

It's the first time I have sewn one of the Amazing Fit patterns, although I have a few I bought at $1 each.  I am hard to fit with an apple belly, ubber bust, and short torso.  With a short deadline, I measured and paper fit, then crossed my fingers and went for it.  The actual directions have you baste most of the seams, try it on, fit and mark it, pick out the seams and resew using the new lines.  I did not have time for that.  It was much easier than I thought it would be to get a decent enough fit.  The back princess seams had too much bulk but it was easy enough to just take them in, and I did raise the front neckline by at least 2 inches to avoid unwanted cleavage.

It fits comfortably.  I won't be entering it because I have not done a lot of sewing lately and I knew that I was missing something along the way.  I made the new facing pattern, cut it out, sewed it on, clipped and it didn't come to me until I was understitching it that I had forgotten the interfacing.  The fabric has a nice drape and you can't see the facing so I just left it as a lesson hopefully learned.

There is a bonus here.  I have to start wearing scrubs tomorrow at work and my co-worker commented that  if it had short sleeves and some top stitching it could pass for a scrub top.  Fortunately, the pattern does have a short sleeved version and I can just make it hip length.  Bonus, bonus, I can get it over my head without unzipping so I don't have to worry about installing any zippers.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 10, 2018, 02:31:52 AM
Oh goodie, Turquoise -- I am so glad you think that.  I tend to only do new techniques as part of something else -  if the pattern I want to make has welt pockets, well gulp, I better learn to do welt pockets... that kind of learning.  I don't think I have sewn velvet since I was in my early twenties.  That sounds so much fun!

IndigoTiger, Me too, but I think what happens is that we get good at the sewing we like to do... but the sewing discipline is so vast, that there are whole unexplored territories.   For example, I feel pretty confident with the techniques needed for making men's traditional shirts - but put me in front of knits or linens - use bias binding for neck finishes??? - and all of a sudden I feel like a beginner again. 

Nice, JuneBug -- don't feel bad, I just forgot to staystitch the neck and stabilize the zipper on a jacket I am making for BH.   

I also started playing with sketching for my practice run at a two piece dress. 

I posted it over in the Dress a Month thread along with the pattern and the fabric (http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,1179.msg42399.html#msg42399), so I won't post them again here... but like you, I am working with a challis because I want to come close to the same drape as my "real" fabric.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Lisa Laree on October 11, 2018, 11:10:11 PM
A couple of weeks ago the family was invited to a wedding.  The youngest offspring, the only one left at home, my 22-year-old daughter I typically refer to as The Flute Player, really struggled with her wardrobe.  Turns out she didn't have a single dress really suitable for a wedding.  She had a white dress and a black dress, from previous events, but neither works in a southern setting.  So...I think I'm going to use this opportunity to see if we can come up with a dress she can hang in her closet that she can wear to a wedding.  Of course, much of this depends on whether or not I can get her past dithering about what she wants/ doesn't want, but I'm even thinking I'll use a pattern I've used for her before...if it still fits.

I'll be in the intermdiate-advanced category, but I don't expect I'll give anyone who's seriously going for a win any competition, lol.  I'm just glad to have something to push me to do it.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: kushami on October 12, 2018, 08:57:00 AM
How fun! I don't think I can join in this time, but if I got the chance I would make a Lempi Dress, which is basically a shirt dress, with bound buttonholes and making a belt as my new techniques/aspects.

www.namedclothing.com/shop/lempi-button-down-dress/

Look forward to seeing everyone's creations.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on October 13, 2018, 09:27:55 AM

However, I still want to make this vintage vogue:
https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9280 (https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9280)

  I don't want a white collar however so I'm still trying to figure that part out.


very belated reply to Mutcat about this dress... it's a vintage look. The additional over collar and cuff inserts are totally optional. The original way this kind of dress would have been made -and worn- called for the extra white (usually linen) pieces, but there is no reason you need them now.

This dress would have typically been made out of wool...basically non-washable at the time and before dry cleaning was easily available. You rarely washed the dress!!! The white bits were out of washable fabric, and were used where your skin touched the dress. Under the dress you wore a full length (washable) slip, you had dress shields in your armpits...so the only remaining bits to worry about getting dirty were the collar and cuff areas.   You can pop off the detachable bits, hot wash with bleach, brush the dress a bit, and it's ready for further wearing. Maybe apply a good dose of perfume.

If you make a modern version, with modern fabrics, you're free to do whatever you want with the collar and cuff inserts. Any contrast fabric would look good, or just omit those pieces. Laundry is no longer a factor.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Sizun on October 13, 2018, 11:26:42 AM

... You can pop off the detachable bits, hot wash with bleach, brush the dress a bit, and it's ready for further wearing. Maybe apply a good dose of perfume.

...

I've noticed wool doesn't easily retains smells. I typically wash my cardigans and wool skirts twice per season and it seems enough. (Pants are a different matter though)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Irina on October 13, 2018, 06:07:29 PM
I need some advise please...I will be making a dress similar to this in silk chiffon fabric. I am making a bodice muslin at this moment. I have trouble picking lining - I worked with silk chiffon before but I never made lined chiffon dress. I am thinking about silk crepe de chine for lining (16mm). Or I can get silk double georgette (16mm). I do have crepe de chine samples and thinking maybe it will be too light/transparent? Will I be better with double georgette? Is it true (I read somewhere) that silk crepe double georgette does not "breathe" and too hot? Will I get better coverage with double georgette?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1938/30207913137_d8cebbd51f_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N2ns9z)1fe25bc7-0387-48f2-83cd-9e9447c15e67 (https://flic.kr/p/N2ns9z) by Irina (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93938498@N04/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1970/44382768505_d61f70ce63_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aBXhND)Dress Fabric 007 (https://flic.kr/p/2aBXhND) by Irina (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93938498@N04/), on Flickr
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 14, 2018, 12:08:09 AM
Irina, take my thoughts with healthy grains of salt, as I have little experience with silk chiffon.  However, I would think you would need something a little more opaque with that beautiful, beautiful fabric. My best guess of the crepe de chine is to try a sample and see if it's too transparent.  If it is, would a rayon lining such as bemberg/ambiance breathe enough and still be opaque enough?   
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on October 14, 2018, 08:04:06 AM
Irina, here are some more thoughts, feel free to ignore! I think you want to avoid any kind of silk (or other fabric) with a "crepe" weave. That includes charmeuse, one side is creped- the other is satin...you want to be sure the  satin side is touching your chiffon.

The structure of crepe makes it a bit  "sticky"...it won't work properly with the chiffon.

If you want silk...I'd look at Habotai (China silk). It's very lightweight, has a slick, flat weave, and will keep the dress floaty. " See through" might still be an issue, however. You could line critical parts of the dress (using the same silk) if necessary.

I'd also look into Bemberg*...similar weight to china silk, but cheaper. You want to think of ways to keep this dress very light and flow-y. Using a heavier fabric is probably not the way to go.

*mta: I don't know where you are located...Bemberg is a USA brand name for cupro (viscose) lining fabric. Where I am (Europe) the equivelent is called "Venezia."  If you've got silk chiffon, you may prefer to go for true silk as the under fabric. Habotai comes in different weights, see if you can test some that is about 12mm and 16mm.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Irina on October 15, 2018, 02:42:52 PM
bessiecrocker, CCL - thank you for your advise.
bessiecrocker, I see now why crepe weave fabric might be not the best choice for me. I looked into habotai - there is 15.5 mm on Thai silks (I am in the US)and would be perfect (I have their samples) but it comes only in white color that does not work with my fabric. 8 mm comes in different colors but it is so light. It might be ok if I go with a bit darker color.

I have "love & hate" relationship with Bemberg lining. I just do not understand the quality. I bought Bemberg a couple of times from different vendors and every time it was a bit different quality. Last time I cut Bemberg and started sewing/pressing seams  and too much water from iron got on it - it is stained fabric so badly I could not use it. The other time  Bemberg was perfect - had better hand and did not stain from water.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 15, 2018, 06:07:58 PM
Irina... I say this with trepidation, but you could try dying the silk.  (I have never done this, but others on the site have dyed fabric and get good results, perhaps one of them may chime in.) 

I know what you mean about the varying quality of bemberg/ambiance.

I can say, though, that I really like the bemberg lining I bought from Britex earlier this year.  I haven't sewn it up yet, but it feels lovely.  I liked also (and it sewed up well) the bemberg I bought from Emma One Sock and Sawyer Brook.  Don't know if that helps... and of course, I have no relationship with any of these vendors...besides them being the sink-holes of my fabric purchasing dollars.

Edited to add:  I just thought of something else.  Sometimes if I am unsure of a lining fabric, I make the pattern up in it first (sort of a step between the muslin and making the garment).   That helps me gauge not only if my pattern alterations are really okay, but how the lining is going to work.   That way, if the lining is a fail, you could try something else.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on October 16, 2018, 12:13:58 PM

I have "love & hate" relationship with Bemberg lining.

I totally know what you mean...my biggest complaint is that some of it smells so bad when it's wet.

You need silk underdress if you have silk chiffon.  See, I just decided that for you.

I think CCL is on to something...dye!  Look at Dharma Trading for dye and other silk options. Silk is super easy to dye yourself...bit messy maybe. Do you have a top loader washer or can you find one?

Also consider using two layers of 8mm habotai...look at Emma One Sock silk, lots of colors. you could even use two different colors layered together for special effect. Drawback is that it's not as simple to sew, but would look good.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on October 21, 2018, 10:53:42 PM
Still thinking about how to participate and use my wool.  I may try to replicate this look https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MRKLT4O/ref=cm_sw_r_pi_dp_U_x_A48YBbJWQXAS9

which I saw posted on another sewing group's board.  I have a few patterns that could stand in for the basic shape, i would just need to find a lining fabric. 
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sharonspils on October 22, 2018, 02:36:18 AM
I've finally found my fabric and pattern and will be making another DVF wrap dress but adding a waist stay this time as the knit is heavier.   Does this fit under the guidelines CCL as I have never added one to a garment before?
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 22, 2018, 03:16:19 AM
Sharonspils, if you've never done the technique before, that definitely counts!

Wendy,. Oh my gosh, I love that dress! I think it looks like you!  What fun! 

Life has been happening here about, but I am almost finished with the trial top and can begin playing with the skirt...still very unsure of how this will work in the "good" fabric, but am getting in good practice.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Lisanne on October 22, 2018, 07:24:44 AM
Thanks Wendy.
Add me to the list of people who will happily want to copy that style   :applause2:
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 22, 2018, 09:58:06 PM
Here's the top of my trial run through on the two-piece dress. Here it is without the tie.  Even though this is the "practice run," I am having fun playing with the print placement.

I am still futzing ideas about how to use the border part of the fabric in the skirt.   Haven't cut anything out yet.  Still plugging away.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1920/44779026084_340a5dc8cb_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bdYdnS)
top of V9428 (https://flic.kr/p/2bdYdnS) by CCL photos (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/), on Flickr

Here's the border part of the fabric.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1936/45182288641_02ea196783_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bQB3hz)
challis border print fabric (https://flic.kr/p/2bQB3hz) by CCL photos (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104062052@N04/), on Flickr
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Morzel on October 24, 2018, 06:25:18 AM
I have been (again) looking at some Silhouette patterns videos these last weeks. Yesterday I finally pulled out my wrap dress pattern (http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_4019.htm) (its been sitting there for quite some time), traced it and made a muslin. I then draped the muslin as per Peggy's instructions. And it worked! I think I will get decent results with the (only slightly altered, the pattern fit is generally good) adjusted pattern. So, new pattern and draping the muslin with L-C-D in mind is my new technique. Now I will use todays spare time to drape another muslin - I am on a roll.  :))
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: fzxdoc on October 28, 2018, 12:13:12 AM
Here's the top of my trial run through on the two-piece dress. Here it is without the tie.  Even though this is the "practice run," I am having fun playing with the print placement.

I am still futzing ideas about how to use the border part of the fabric in the skirt.   Haven't cut anything out yet.  Still plugging away.


The colors in the border really pops against the rest of the fabric, CCL. I would think that using it in an unexpected way, as in on the diagonal for the skirt, or across the upper bust for the top might be interesting. Or maybe an unexpected pop of the border colors in the sleeve. Or in a back yoke treatment.

The expected places for a border are, of course, at a border (skirt or top hem) or used for the tie.

Kathryn
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on October 28, 2018, 02:25:59 AM
I am not going to finish this pre-swap but I've decided upon my dress pattern for this year's anniversary. I'll make a mock up that will be blouse length. 
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on October 28, 2018, 04:00:32 PM
This is such a great idea! I could be in. I recently made a dress that is very similar to what this project would involve - something new to me, different fitting, etc. I'd love to give this type of challenge a go with with a different fabric or dress style. I always wait too long to make a dress for Christmas and I have made so few dresses for work, even though they suit me. Fun! I'd put myself squarely in the intermediate block and probably in the intermediate to advanced, because even though I haven't sewn with all of the fabrics listed in the fabric grouping, I've done a fair bit of sewing at different stages in my life.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 28, 2018, 05:12:56 PM
Stephanie, oooh, do join us!  Depending on Mudcat's rules, maybe your dress can also be your "previously made"  or completed after the rules were announced... for SWAP.

We have until Dec. 15th for sewing -almost 7 weeks, then voting (and holiday goodie munching), so perhaps there's enough time?  I am a slow sewer, so not sure about for me and the #@$%$#@***** green wool challis, but maybe I can at least get the trial version done.

PS.. I love love love your new avatar!  So cute!

Edited to addBev, boy do I ever understand not being able to finish... I am another one looking at the challenge as a way to get myself to finish the aforementioned trial garment.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on October 28, 2018, 05:22:00 PM
Thanks for your encouragement, CCL! I think I will join in. I would love to have a new dress or outfit for Christmas, and there are so many new patterns I would like to try. Green wool challis! Love! Love! And thanks re. the avatar! Hiding under the jacket is the new dress I recently made - a vintage Pucci number that gave me some issues with a front bodice seam/design detail but that I love overall.

Medea, I just saw that you mentioned me and the Burda dress I made a couple of years ago. Thanks! I wore that dress last week and I was thinking again what a great dress it is! Miraculously, my FBA also worked well on that dress and the whole thing fits well. The only thing I could have improved is slimming the shoulders slightly. I added shoulder pads to mine, which works, too. My fabric was a really nice wool jersey without too much stretch, that I bought from Emmaonesock. The wool means that it is warm enough for me to wear here given how chilly it is and how cold I am as a rule. I was thinking to myself that I would love to make another if I can find the right fabric. The only thing I would change about my first version is that I made the sleeves full length and I think it looks better at 3/4, which is what the pattern calls for. I always fold the sleeves under but should just go ahead and trim them.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on October 28, 2018, 05:53:58 PM
Ccl
I didnt realize we have until Dec 15th.  I might be done by then.  I need my anniversary dress for the 5th.  For some reason I thought the preSwap dress needed to be done in the next few days....
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on October 28, 2018, 05:56:48 PM
sdBev: I think it may be that a garment completed before the rules are posted could be included in SWAP, but not sure.

I got excited about this dress idea and started thinking about what I'd like to make. One option would be this Burda dress that I traced last year but never did anything with. I have some nice green wool that I could use to make this but it would be waaaay more fun to try to find something metallic. :)
https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/pleated-panel-dress-082017
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on October 28, 2018, 06:16:48 PM
Bev - we do have until December 15th to get the dress sewn.  So yippee if you can join us!!  I am getting excited about seeing everyone's makes - and this may be just the ticket to getting my flagging mojo going!

DragonLady was/is going to help with the posting and voting... I was hoping we could do it like SWAP last year - but instead of photos of each garment, just three photos of the same garment, front, side and back on the person for whom the dress was made.   

Morzel, I have been meaning to comment and keep forgetting, I really like that wrap dress pattern.  Usually wrap dresses are just a bit too much for me - as I am basically a rectangle, but that one looks as if it might actually work for me and give the illusion of some curves!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on October 28, 2018, 06:34:25 PM
Updated just to say that green wool would be lovely, too, and is probably what I'll use as I am trying to de-stash. I didn't mean to inadvertently sound like I was insulting those who choose to use classic rather than flashy materials!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: BinMI on October 30, 2018, 11:36:48 PM
CCL, I’m so glad you started this challenge, I don’t own a dress and could have used one for a recent baby shower. I was super busy the last few months and now I’m free to sew. I’ve decided to try the Cashmerette Rivermont dress. It looks like a comfortable and classic dress. I have never sewn this pattern line and will have to do a muslin.

Becky
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on October 31, 2018, 12:31:20 AM
Re thinking my wool, I may go with this:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/26421533279_a4f4e8890c_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GfMgke)IMG_1289 (https://flic.kr/p/GfMgke) by wendyr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/96520845@N03/), on Flickr

ETA: would use the bottom fabric.

and still make the Metamorphic dress.  Dithering.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on October 31, 2018, 01:06:08 AM
I finished the muslin.  Well the first muslin. Knew when I finished initial adjustments to the tissue that I still needed to fix the shoulder slope. When fitting I ran into an old forgotten issue the back waist length Also had  a problem caused by the fabric.  Think Ive got it all ironed out but I want to make a wearable before I cut the good fabric.  Will have a post on  sdbev.wordpress.com Wed morning.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on October 31, 2018, 06:07:12 AM
I'm definitely in. Now that the SWAP rules have been posted and I have a more clear idea of how my wardrobe needs and the rules meet, I am going to make one of my everyday TNT dresses, probably with my indigo pinstripe fabric. I know for certain that I want to learn "how to add a button band" to the center front, since the basic pattern just has a seam there (dress just pops over my head without fasteners). I also want to add a simple "peter pan" collar, so will also be learning how to draft that as well... While I have done some simple pattern manipulation in the past, these both will be new modifications.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on November 03, 2018, 06:40:42 PM
I'm definitely in on this challenge, too. I'll be sewing between Dec 4 and 15th I think. I'm torn between patterns, but I'm thinking I'll kill two birds with one stone and make a dress I could wear for work or also use in SWAP. It will be with a pattern that I've never used before. The fabric is the dark green in this picture (gabardine; underneath the yellow yarn):

(https://myvintageinspiration.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/20181103_120414_resized.jpg)

Pattern is uncertain. Could be this (Burda):

(https://myvintageinspiration.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/20181103_125855_resized.jpg)

or this (also Burda):
 
(https://myvintageinspiration.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/20181103_125839_resized.jpg)

or this vintage Molyneux one (I've always had a thing for dresses with built-in belt loops...do not ask me why :)):
 
(https://myvintageinspiration.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/img_6375-800x533.jpg)

Note: all patterns are new to me.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Sew Ruthie Sews on November 04, 2018, 06:02:38 PM
Watching and enjoying what you are all doing, however have no inclination to make a dress myself.
I like to have one dress I can wear for things but bought one from Joe Browns which I will now wear to every party or night out for the foreseeable future.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Irina on November 05, 2018, 03:41:18 AM
Ladies how your dresses are coming along? I ended up getting silk crepe de chine 16 mm as lining. Glad I did, its texture is smooth and has wonderful hand and it will add some weight to my weightless chiffon.  My dress is coming along ok, but very slow. Dress took 6 yards of fabric. I prepped chiffon for cutting and it shrunk from 145 cm width to 127 cm. Crazy.Today was cutting and sewing lining. Here is my lining next to the dress's skirt.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4895/44811391265_f070d8fd6e_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bgQ6qe)Project Dress 003 (https://flic.kr/p/2bgQ6qe) by Irina (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93938498@N04/), on Flickr
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on November 05, 2018, 01:39:07 PM
Irina, the lining looks a perfect match! Can't wait to see the finished dress.

I have been preoccupied with other things, and the dress is just  percolating in the background. I am back to thinking about the wool, as it will coordinate with my SWAP plans. I'm feeling very torn between what I want to make and what I need to make, and what I have time for!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 05, 2018, 05:24:56 PM
Oh I forgot to update here.  I made the wearable muslin.  Want to wear all day to be sure it stays comfy and doesnt need any final modifications.  Im on my IPAD and cant copy the image or post addy. Sometimes I truly hate this th8ng. :plbtt:
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 05, 2018, 08:19:27 PM
Bev - what a smart idea!  The wear test.

Irina - oh, that looks like such a beautiful match on the lining. 

Wendy, excited to see what pattern you decided on.  I do like that metamorphic dress on you... and the new pattern you linked to as well. Decisions, decisions.

Stephanie, I think I like the top pattern - I am always drawn to structured lines, so that could just be my bias showing, but it really has a lot of design interest.

Yay, IndigoTiger - I am trying to envision a peter pan collar and button band on your popover dress.  It sounds super fun.

BinMI... I am intrigued by the Casmeretti Rivermont dress.  What a great classic dress!  Several of the ones I saw when googling were done is lovely prints.  I loved the plain ones too, as the seam lines are interesting.

Ruthie - My life is going to get even more busy and crazy in the coming weeks soI will be with you in the balcony enjoying everyone's sewing.

We have six more weeks!   DragonLady, will be able to open a gallery for folks posting their three photos December 16th?
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on November 06, 2018, 02:49:34 AM
CCL: It's really nice of you to organize this when you are so busy and I enjoyed your comments about everyone's projects. I am finally in a lull after a very busy period, so I am going to take advantage of it to finally sew something to wear at Christmas. I also favour the first dress, although I made the mistake of buying a vintage Vogue pattern today that might take its place. :( Tricky tricky.

Irina: That is simply lovely! I can't wait to see the final dress.

sdBev: The wear test is of course the best. Muslins always seem like a drag to make but they are so important.

Wendy: I feel exactly the same way most of the time about what I need to make, want to make and especially what I have time for. :)



Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Morzel on November 06, 2018, 05:09:42 PM
BinMi - the Cashmerette dress looks great!

Stephanie - I would also go for the first dress - great design lines, and you got just the perfect figure for that kind of pattern!

Irina - that chiffon is lovely, as is the dress pattern. I imagine it will be wonderfully 'swishy'...

Bev - smart thing, spending time in your dress muslin. I did the same the other day and it gave me second thoughts about my chosen pattern...

I did finish my dress today. The only thing left to do for tonight is sewing the buttons on, then I can wear it to my sewing group meeting tomorrow. I used a medium weight grey wool crepe - I love to work with wool crepe! It is not lined, as the wool is not scratchy at all. I used this pattern (http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_4019.htm) and muslined it per Peggy instructions. There's a nice webcast about the dress, that explains a lot (eg. the dress needs to be snug at the waist for it to wear well, but the pattern runs intentionally big there, so it can be fitted to almost everyone - rather err on the big side) about the fitting. The muslin went together well, the fitting was done, and then I spend some time around the house in my muslin. It is a wrap dress, that closes at the waist, as wrap dresses do. And the fit and look is great when standing. But I did not feel comfortable AT ALL sitting down in it. There is enough overlap for the dress not to split open in the middle as such, but somehow I fear when sitting and 'recrossing' legs, moving around on the chair, lounging on the sofa, it MIGHT split open... I don't want to sew/wear clothes in which I have to be aware of my movements.... Nevertheless, I do like the dress, so I decided to 'undo' the wrap and make a shirt dress from it. I cut the wrap part off (Center front is marked on the pattern) and sewed a long henley. For buttons I chose 5 odd buttons I found in my 'button box' - they are all silver, all 1,5cm and I thought it is a good oportunity to use them! One has a pearl coloured center, one shows St.Georg the dragon slayer. My daughter and her friend gave me advice in which order to sew them on - they decided for the button with the pearl center to be the upmost. So this will be the pearl dress!

(https://up.picr.de/34275774oy.jpg)

So, when I got a photo of the finished dress on me, where to show it? Here? In the gallery?
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on November 07, 2018, 12:44:26 AM
Morzel: Your dress sounds wonderful! The buttons are very cool.

I wore wrap dresses for a short period in my life, but I always felt very self-conscious about the bust part and I never liked the look of pinning or tacking the wrap down. So I retired my wraps and started wearing higher-necked things. :)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 07, 2018, 04:55:29 AM
....I wore wrap dresses for a short period in my life, but I always felt very self-conscious about the bust part and I never liked the look of pinning or tacking the wrap down....
Several times in my life I have tried to wear wrap tops and dresses. They never stay  closed on barely B-cup me and to my embarrasement, I was always flashing somebody. I hated the look of pinning or snaps.  The only “wrap” that works for me is a faux-wrap.  I do admire those who can wear a wrap top.  It is just not for me.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Morzel on November 07, 2018, 08:21:17 AM
Actually, the wrap part above the waist stayed closed with this pattern - it is well drafted in that respect. So it could work as a top, I guess.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Sizun on November 07, 2018, 04:36:05 PM
RTW wrap dresses never worked for me. However, I made one with some kind of "small bust adjustment" and it worked ! Sadly, I wore it so much that it didn't last long  >:D
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 07, 2018, 07:34:42 PM
Well my test wasn't exactly a success. 
Before Laundry ---------------------------------After Laundry
(https://sdbev.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/front_resize1.jpg)(https://sdbevindys.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/5430dis_2neck_resize.jpg?w=300&h=151) 
Read BEFORE LAUNDRY post here (https://sdbevindys.wordpress.com/2018/11/02/b5430-wearable-muslin/)
Read AFTER LAUNDRY post here (https://sdbevindys.wordpress.com/2018/11/07/b5430-acute-disappointment/)

I could have just a fabric failure on my hands in which case I need to make another wearable muslin. Then again, maybe the cowl is not drafted well and I need to start on a whole new pattern..
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 07, 2018, 10:29:08 PM
Oh Bev... I hope it's not a complete loss... that fabric is so bright and cheery. 
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 08, 2018, 12:41:50 AM
Oh Bev... I hope it's not a complete loss... that fabric is so bright and cheery.
It is neatly folded and in the donate box.  Needs more ease than can be recovered from the seam allowances and there is not enough fabric left over for a fix.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: fzxdoc on November 08, 2018, 12:18:40 PM
Bev, as I recall,  crepe can be subject to serial shrinkage unless it is vigorously pre-shrunk in a full wash/dry cycle or at the dry cleaners. It can shrink a full size with subsequent washings. Sounds like that's what happened to you.

To my knowledge, viscose (rayon) is a natural fiber, made from wood pulp, which is why I enjoy sewing with it; it breathes and drapes nicely. But some rayon really likes to shrink and wrinkle. My favorite rayon is cuprammonium rayon which does not shrink or wrinkle (although I always pretreat it) and feels like silk. At the time I was hoarding it, it was made in Switzerland or Germany. I think I still have a piece or two left in my fabric emporium.

Kathryn

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 08, 2018, 05:18:59 PM
Kathryn
I wash all fabrics except wool when they come in the door.  They dont go any where near my stash until they ve been tortured a little and usually pressed.  Denim gets the coke wash on ‘sanitary’ a setting that runs 2 hours and keepa the water heated high enough to kill germs. Maybe Viscose needs the same?  Ive had many other crepes that didnt shrink after that  first wash.  I have noticed that my rayon challis, which I love for blouses, continues to shrink slowly. I usually dont get more than 2 years out if a rayon blouse.  I would quit buying that too except I love it in blouses.


Ps My closet is so stuffed that 2 years wear translates to about 12 wearings.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on November 08, 2018, 06:48:03 PM
Maybe Viscose needs the same?   

No, I don't think so. Rayon, viscose, cupro (basically all the same with different names) is a fiber that is really weak when it's wet. So you should put it in a net bag to wash, use a gentle spin cycle, hang to dry (flat or treat it gently), and try not to iron (or use low iron setting.) When dry, rayon is fine. But it needs some extra TLC when it's wet.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 08, 2018, 08:59:44 PM
Bessie, good to know.  Similar to Bev and Kathryn, I especially love a rayon challis for blouses and tops.  I typically hand wash them, but have been known to be lazy and throw them in the wash.  Just bought a couple of yards of rayon challis from Fabric Mart destined for blouses, so your advice is timely.

Bev, sorry to hear about your trial... it is lovely.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: kushami on November 09, 2018, 05:27:07 AM
CCL, is okay to enter a project that you already did prep work on? I have something that may be suitable, but I traced the pattern and made a muslin a while ago. I did not start the actual cutting of fashion fabric and sewing until this week.

ETA: Great! It is not a Lempi Dress (something a bit simpler) but as I am a beginner there will be "new to me" elements. One I can think of is mitred corners. I'll have a practice of those today on some scrap fabric.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 09, 2018, 03:37:05 PM
CCL, is okay to enter a project that you already did prep work on? I have something that may be suitable, but I traced the pattern and made a muslin a while ago. I did not start the actual cutting of fashion fabric and sewing until this week

Definitely!   This would be no different than using a TNT pattern.   Include a new technique (such as a new to you way of finishing seams, or making your own seam binding for the first time, perhaps a new way of attaching interfacing, pockets, or even if the fashion fabric is a type that you've never worked with before) and you are all set.   Hope that helps!

Oh Goodie!  So glad you are joining us!

Dragon Lady and Kathryn have been helping me sort out how we can do the photos and voting for the contests - so stand by for explanations on how that will work - but we're trying to keep it as close to how last year's SWAP ran as possible to keep it easy.

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Morzel on November 10, 2018, 12:48:43 PM
Bev, I am sorry to hear the fabric didn't work. Interesting to hear about experiences with viscose -I like to use it and never had trouble with it, washing my blouses more than 12 times... Also with viscose jersey. A few years ago I only used those and they were washed alot, never shrinking. I wonder if its about type of washing machine or detergent? The cupro stuff is not allowed to be produced in Europe anymore because of environmental reasons.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Turquoise on November 10, 2018, 02:41:21 PM
Like Morzel I use and wash viscose and viscose jersey all the time in the washing machine and after the initial pre-wash have never suffered any further shrinkage.  I do wash it on the hand wash/wool setting on my washing machine though.  It’s such a shame that your blouse shrunk sdBev it’s a very pretty print.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 10, 2018, 04:43:47 PM
Thanks guys.  It is rare but that can still happen sometimes.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on November 10, 2018, 05:09:14 PM
I wonder if its about type of washing machine or detergent? The cupro stuff is not allowed to be produced in Europe anymore because of environmental reasons.

Clarification: problems with washing (shrinking) are mostly due to the type of finish put on the fabric (rayon/viscose) type.  Rayon was originally made to be solely dry cleaned. Manufacturing techniques improved and they got better finishes...so you now get better luck with washing. But if you want to be safe...hand wash, flat dry.  (I throw rayon in the washer and dryer, but I don't expect it to last forever.) If your rayon/viscose isn't up to your satisfaction, it's most likely due to the finish...try a different brand, source.

Cupro is no longer allowed to be manufactured in GERMANY. It's still made in Switzerland, where it was invented. Germany banned it for environmental factors, but also because it is expensive to produce there. Also worth noting is that Bemberg, lining fabric, is officially Cupro.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J._P._Bemberg

Also worth noting is that all rayon/viscose is fairly nasty towards the environment. It's based on plant fibers, but tons of water and chemicals go into the production.

This is interesting about "green fashion". In German, but maybe you can find an English version or use Google translate.

https://www.greenpeace.org/austria/Global/austria/marktcheck/uploads/media/final_handbuch_ecofashion_umweltberatung.pdf

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Morzel on November 10, 2018, 09:06:14 PM
Thanks, bessiecrocker, those links were intersting reading. And I did get it wrong then, I thought, cupro production was banned in EU. Sometimes details slip through my mind or get a bit altered - should have checked before answering. Anyway, it is interesting that rayon behaves so different because if its treatment. So I hang in to my sources...
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on November 12, 2018, 02:05:44 PM
No sewing on a dress yet.  I spent the weekend cleaning up the sewing area (never ending process) and sorting my fabric and patterns into project bins. The wool is in a bin with a few pattern options percolating for now. I'll probably have a peek at it now and then, soon, this weekend I think, I'll make a decision and get started!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 12, 2018, 04:29:54 PM
No sewing on a dress yet.  I spent the weekend cleaning up the sewing area (never ending process) and sorting my fabric and patterns into project bins. The wool is in a bin with a few pattern options percolating for now. I'll probably have a peek at it now and then, soon, this weekend I think, I'll make a decision and get started!
Soundss like one of my sewing session except my cleaning was limited to straightening the fabric shelves.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 12, 2018, 05:51:18 PM
Okay... Thought I would post this here. 

Dress Challenge Timeline and instructions for entering your creations:
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 15, 2018, 02:02:39 PM
It's November 15th....happy one month left to sew a dress for the competition!

How is everyone doing with their planning, fitting, practicing and sewing?
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on November 16, 2018, 01:31:52 AM
Thanks for the reminder, CCL! I'm going to be toiling this weekend and barring any major problems will be sewing between Dec. 4 and 15 so should be fine! Looking forward to it!!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on November 16, 2018, 03:18:22 AM
I'll be doing the same as Stephanie, firming up my choice of fabric and pattern this weekend.

If I choose the wool, I'll definitely have to do up a muslin. Otherwise, I have the metamorphic all set to go, as I just made it this summer. Maybe I'll just make both!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on November 16, 2018, 12:47:05 PM
I am trying to decide between 2 fabrics.  Will not use the pattern I “muslined”.  In the end, I didnt like how the collar drapes.  Cowls can be very pretty. This was just some floppy fabric on my chest. Dont want to muslin another, so I will use my block.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: BinMI on November 16, 2018, 04:08:17 PM
My pdf is taped together. Muslin this weekend.

The pattern I’m using is very basic, once fitted it should be a straight forward sew. I’m contemplating  how to add a little extra to make it more challenging.

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on November 18, 2018, 12:13:42 AM
Hey gang, I've decided to use the wool for sure, but I have a question for you all.

I originally planned to use the Metamorphic dress, which is sleeveless.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1768/42130818375_84f1314deb_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27bXsug)Metamorphic_croquis+(1) (https://flic.kr/p/27bXsug) by wendyr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/96520845@N03/), on Flickr

But I really will have to wear a shirt beneath, cause a wool sleeveless dress seems a little ridiculous to me. So does this then make my dress a pinafore? And would it then not qualify as a dress? Because a wool pinafore is a lot less silly than a sleeveless wool dress. Sheesh.

But I can completely see it in my minds eye with a turtleneck beneath, tights, and boots.

LMK if you all think this would fit within the rules!

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 18, 2018, 01:01:21 AM
It totally qualifies.  It's a popover dress, similar to those that IndigoTiger makes.   ;D
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on November 18, 2018, 01:13:35 AM
Cool beans!!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: BinMI on November 18, 2018, 04:39:11 PM
I’m withdrawing from this challenge, it’s not the best timing for me. I will be following along and cheering you all on.

Becky
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 18, 2018, 09:05:07 PM
Oh, Becky, sorry to hear that and hope that it is not because of some family emergency.

If everyone has fun with this and deem it a worthy enterprise maybe we can do it again next year and you will be able to join us then!

Will miss seeing your creation this time around, though.


Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: BinMI on November 19, 2018, 08:09:01 PM
Not a family emergency...Just a clothing crisis...I’ve lost just enough weight that I only have one pair of recently purchased jeans that fit me...I need to sew pants for the coming season.

I will need a few dresses next year, one in June so will probably jump in on another dress thread when the time gets closer. I think this challenge is such a fantastic idea!

I will be watching this thread for inspiration!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on November 19, 2018, 09:30:20 PM
Becky  - we will miss your participation... yay for the losing weight, assuming it was intentional - but understand that sewing what our wardrobes actually need is the most important.

For myself, I definitely need dresses to wear under pinafores, as the weather here is getting colder...
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1hcY-FjUW80/W_MqgQmL2LI/AAAAAAAAB2w/uJotxhDRxBACC4NgIi20zGVFOtdcVrBEgCLcBGAs/s1600/pinstripe-dress-sketch.jpg)
this is what my plans are for this challenge. I am going to adapt my everyday dress pattern to have both a button band bodice and a peter pan collar. This will require drafting both of those additions, as well as raising the front neckline. I have pinstripe indigo cotton fabric that will be fun to play with stripe directions in this dress, which will, in addition, be part of my SWAP 2019 (the "sewn before official start date but after rules posted" garment)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on November 25, 2018, 04:19:33 AM
I've finally gotten started on the dress. Top layer is cut, and I've sewn the gathering threads on the skirt. then DH needed the bedroom, so I had to stop sewing.

I found 2 options for the lining, matching thread (plus some other goodies) at the fabric shop. Yay! Then realized I did not have my wallet. Boo!  So I'll go back tomorrow to pick them up. I'll have to cut the lining, which is always a step I dread. Once that is done though the dress should come together quickly.

The wool is VERY nice to handle. Very well behaved. It is also very purple. It may need something to give the eye some relief, but it is really intended to be layered, so right now I'm not too worried about it.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on November 29, 2018, 02:53:58 AM
Pictures of the wool, an elastic trim I picked up, and the lining fabric for the dress.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4856/45184928095_6d734ea24e_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bQQyUp)IMG_3339 (https://flic.kr/p/2bQQyUp) by wendyr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/96520845@N03/), on Flickr

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4853/46096718881_e0ca8c7690_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2depJxc)IMG_3338 (https://flic.kr/p/2depJxc) by wendyr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/96520845@N03/), on Flickr
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Lisanne on November 29, 2018, 11:54:38 AM
Lovely choices Wendy - Good Luck with the rest of the making   ;D
Whew - SG needed a bit of persuasion to post this, what a pity reasons not to post are adding up !
Hopefully the new version will restore our freedoms.  . .
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on November 29, 2018, 02:19:07 PM
Just a reminder:  We've got @ 17 days left in this challenge - from the initial post in this thread (http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,1709.msg42188.html#msg42188).   Some of the Quick of Sewing Feet among us might be able to make a dress or two in that timeframe!   

 
Quote
I’d like to sponsor a Dress challenge – and follow Mudcat’s lovely idea of awarding the winner(s) a little $25 gift certificate at an appropriate fabric store/site. I would supply the gift certificates; the same caveat that Mudcat provided applies, it has to be website or store to which I can set up the gift certificate for the winners.

To repeat:  Two winners, one for each category, each getting a $25 gift certificate. 

I am copying and posting again the information about "entering" your garments, just in case anyone missed it. 

Dress Challenge Timeline and instructions for entering your creations:

Edited to add:  Wendy -- your fabric combination is exciting and looks terrific.  Our furnace went out yesterday, and frankly I wished I had your purple wool "jumper/pinafore/whatever" to keep warm.

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on November 29, 2018, 05:17:22 PM
don't know if I would call myself "quick of sewing feet" but I do hope to complete my dress...  I have drafted a collar, it is partially cut out, and I hope to finish the cutting out this weekend, though I also have out of town guests this weekend, so additional prep as well as sewing et al may have to wait until Monday to get started
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: BinMI on December 01, 2018, 04:12:01 PM
I doubt I will be able to complete this challenge but I found some great fabric for my Rivermont dress.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on December 01, 2018, 06:47:06 PM
Well my dressmaking has fallen flat.  The muslin was unwearable by intent. The final dress shrunk and became unwearable  I admitted I didnt really like the cowl part of the neckline (as drafted) and decided to make a dress by using my knit sloper.  Finished dress was, meh.  It is wearable. Fabric is sparkly; pretty. But the over all look is just meh. For me, last minute sewing projects tend to be disasters and its about time to pack.  So, I sewed a new knit top which will be worn with my black skirt i.e. not a dress.  I hereby officially drop out. Cherring you all from the sidelines

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on December 02, 2018, 09:41:06 PM
Bev, I'm sorry your dress didn't work out. :(

B, that fabric looks lovely!

Indigo, I am not speedy either, but I hope we can keep plugging along.

I have been making steady progress, I'm at the point of burrito rolling the lining, I'm a little nervous about pulling all that wool fabric through a tiny tube, so I'm sitting and thinking about it instead!  Its probably the best way to make a clean arm hole though.

Hope to have the dress totally done by next weekend.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 04, 2018, 07:21:28 AM
Today I got about halfway into my initial toile of the revised bodice that I hope to use for the pinstripe dress, making up a "blouse" from some brown linen to see if my ideas for a collar and button placket will work, and to figure out the assembly sequence... I like the yoke shape I came up with, and the placket, but it is late enough at night that I am going to leave attaching the collar til tomorrow... it looks rather wierd, and I have doubts
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on December 04, 2018, 01:42:12 PM
Indigotiger...strange as in new to you oddity or strange strange??  Asking because sometimes when I try something new to me it registers as strange until it settles... Boy, did that sentence not come out right.  Hope you know what I mean.

Off topic...well sort of related.  I may be picking your brain about your popover dresses.  A friend gave me one a while ago.   It's a little outside my comfort zone (i.e.  strange) but I found I like it and am wearing it a lot.  I have some wool that could become a reversible dress...a bit inspired by Wendy here, but single layer.

 I have ideas percolating about armhole and neckline finishes that I will start posting in the Dress a Month thread later this week and not take up space here, but would love ideas about how to keep it simple and reversible.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Morzel on December 04, 2018, 04:05:12 PM
BinMi, that fabric looks great. Linen?

Wendy, I really like those colours. Purple in one of my two favourite colours... Fun trim.

CCL, what better than have a gifted dress have you try out something new. And as it seems to work, a great win!

I actually started another dress today, for christmas. Very easy one - it is the Kendosa top from Silhouette patterns (https://silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_197.htm). It consists of two layers, a normal sleeveless top plus a wide kimonosleeved overshirt. I lengthend the underlaying tshirt part to knee length as to have it a dress. The overlay is dark blue velvet, the underlayer dark blue viscose knit. The sewing bit is almost finished, but I want to sew on trim on the hem of the overlayer. I will finish it probably at the weekend.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 05, 2018, 04:45:49 AM
My "wearable muslin", the toile in brown/white shot linen is a definite success and will probably become part of my winter 6PAC.  I started with my TNT everyday dress pattern bodice, which has a bias front, a "U" neckline, and a straight grain back. I raised the neck to just below a jewel neckline, added a button placket, drafted a peter pan collar, altered the back to have a yoke and side back pleats, and added integral sleeve gussets. I am fairly active, and ride my bike a lot, so garments that let my arms move freely are important.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sLTMY_ENRk4/XAdXUNkCJWI/AAAAAAAAJ00/keCi2QwLzfcvFjJ-cFIWUapOGIYfg8JIQCLcBGAs/s1600/buttonfront-linen-toile.jpg)
partway through the assembly process...

There are (subtle) things I will improve on in the next go round: lengthening the sleeves a bit, making the cuff band tighter, and cutting the collar parts so that the upper collar is bigger than the undercollar, as well as possibly reshaping the center back of the collar...

Figuring out how to draft the peter pan collar was a bit mind bending, and the pattern piece has a slightly odd shape, but when it is attached to the bodice, it looks just right and fits neatly around my neck without being too snug. I still need to do the buttonholes and sew on the buttons. Photos when it isn't nighttime.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Lisanne on December 05, 2018, 09:09:13 AM
Good going Indigotiger !
I like the subtle use of grain line   ;D
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: fzxdoc on December 05, 2018, 01:15:33 PM
Morzel, I hope the velvet overblouse slips easily over the jersey under t-shirt dress. Sometimes when working with a velvet overlay I find it likes to creep up as I walk. Not a flattering look. I'm sure yours will work out just fine, though.

B in Mi, tell us more about that beautiful piece of fabric that you found for your dress. What type of fabric is it? It's going to make a really stunning dress, with all that high contrast going on.

Indigotiger, your dress is looking great. You're such a clever engineer when it comes to making patterns work for you. That Peter Pan collar looks perfect.

Wendy, congrats for soldiering on with the dress. Bit by bit it will all come together. That burrito method makes such a nice finish.

Happy dress sewing to one and all,
Kathryn
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 05, 2018, 08:30:23 PM
not the best photo, as the light today was terrible, but this gives an idea of the new design...
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_XpdJlHLM4I/XAg0m-eEWYI/AAAAAAAAJ1A/zko8IFuJZzkL5LrxCg2uXlOQlPDMeiklgCLcBGAs/s1600/linen-blouse-toile.jpg)
Actually rather like a smock/shirt/blouse, as it is large enough to easily wear a knit top underneath, which is ideal for wintertime. And it is obvious why I want to put some more attention into adjusting the sleeve pattern.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: BinMI on December 05, 2018, 08:34:46 PM
The fabric is a double knit, poly/rayon/spandex. I got it from Stylemaker Fabrics. It is called Distressed Navy Chevron, color is navy and vanilla. If I don’t end up making the dress, it would make a cool jacket.

Indigotiger, your dress toile is coming along nicely!



Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on December 06, 2018, 02:51:55 AM
Cool stuff is going on here!

indiotiger: That photo of you is so cute and Lisanne is spot on about the interesting use of grain.

I've been out of sewing for a couple of weeks as my partner was here. Now that he has gone home to Italy I will be finishing up my dress toile. That said, I always forget the late-night-popcorn-chocolate-cake-pasta-pizza factor of my partner's visits, so I might need a few days of lighter eating before I will fit into the toile, which is only partially put together... :)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: kowgiirl.up on December 06, 2018, 06:18:11 PM
indiotiger, the detail on the neckline looks awesome. Good job.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 07, 2018, 02:37:17 AM
Thanks all, for the compliments! Changing up my former plan somewhat, as I screwed up on the what gets sewn when, and already sewed my brown/white shot linen blouse as my toile for this challenge, instead of remembering to choose a non-SWAP fabric. This means that my indigo pinstripe dress cannot also be sewn before the 26th. Sigh. Still going to sew the dress, but I can't have two "sewn after the rules but before the 26th garments. Ooops!

So instead, for this preSWAP dress challenge, I am going to cut out and sew the teal batik stripe cotton instead of the indigo pinstripe, so that I can still include the pinstripe dress as part of my SWAP, by sewing it later on. (The teal batik stripe fabric can always become part of my springtime 6PAC)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on December 08, 2018, 03:49:53 PM
Changing up my former plan somewhat, as I screwed up on the what gets sewn when, and already sewed my brown/white shot linen blouse as my toile for this challenge, instead of remembering to choose a non-SWAP fabric.

I've done this plenty of times too!  I can't keep it all straight sometimes. Your color palette is so well coordinated though, at least you can substitute out a different fabric!

The plan for the weekend is to hem the lining and dress, and possibly to edge/top stitch the neck opening.  Then I need to decide if I am going to embellish the dress, or leave it as-is. Interestingly, a friend of mine sent me a picture of myself in her apartment from 25 years ago. I am wearing a plain blue shirt, and a pair of light khaki shorts. Not a frill or pattern visible.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Lisanne on December 08, 2018, 07:17:15 PM
Then I need to decide if I am going to embellish the dress, or leave it as-is. . . . 25 years ago. . . . I am wearing a plain blue shirt, and a pair of light khaki shorts. Not a frill or pattern visible.

I still remember a student friend who went from tweedy brogue-wearing hockey player to reclining on a chaise-longe in velvet maxi-dresses  ;D
I've never made so dramatic a style change myself, I've just gone from chic minimalism to smocks - but if it feels right then do it !
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 09, 2018, 05:04:11 PM
Dress is about half done... Lower half just needs the hemline edge bound. Upper half needs the sleeves attached, the buttonholes made, and the buttons attached. At that point, the bodice and skirt get stitched together and the dress is finished.

I'm not entirely happy with the only two blue button sets I was able to find in my button box, so I stopped at that point last night. The idea of taking most of the day today to travel to and from where I could shop for different buttons doesn't appeal to me at all. I took the rare-for-me step of making test buttonholes and trying the two different options I had on hand:
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CPiqGi2fnbQ/XA1JUe7UiZI/AAAAAAAAJ1k/MIEcnV5Rox8MMQWSwaL9ig0BYMQLMR7yQCLcBGAs/s1600/button-sample.jpg)
I'm inclined towards the tiny* porcelain buttons, as they are a better color match. My concern is about how well they will hold up to being machine washed, but I imagine that as long as I am careful about turning the dress inside out before laundry they will be cushioned enough by the dress itself.

*only 7/16" across
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: kowgiirl.up on December 09, 2018, 05:13:30 PM
Indgotiger, I love the porcelain button. It’s very dainty but oh, so cool. To me, it seems more fitting with the fabric colors.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 09, 2018, 05:27:37 PM
Thanks Theresa... I am going to use those wee tiny buttons. Also I am trying to move past my "save this for the perfect thing" frame of mind to a "use this so that I can enjoy it now" attitude. I bought those buttons at the pottery guild show about ten years ago, and I think that they will bring me more joy actually on a dress than in the button box!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on December 09, 2018, 08:35:30 PM
Indigo, I love those little buttons...but they do look fragile. (and look like something you might use again once this dress wears out!). Do you know how to make removable buttons? I looked (fast) for something on the web and didn't find much. It's an old fashioned technique used before 1950s when washing was hard on textiles and buttons were real mother of pearl.

It works best if yoûr buttons have a shank, but other kinds of buttons also can work.

If it has a shank, and your machine will make eyelets...you're set. These end up pretty much like the buttons on men's (modern) tuxedo shirts.

With no shank, you sew the buttons on a backing strip that goes under the facing, with a double set of buttonholes.  There is a Threads article that explains this, but I can't get to it without a Threads subscription.

If this isn't enough to get you going in the right direction...I'll look some more.

Also, thinking about this, you could "up" the impact by the spacing of your buttons..maybe using two close together.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 09, 2018, 09:13:32 PM
Bessiecrocker - I am actually familiar with that technique, if only because I have a collection of Threads magazine that goes back to issue#1 (I don't subscribe any more, but what I do have takes up a whole shelf on my bookcase). I thought about doing that, and decided that it would make me nuts to double unbutton and button the top half of my dress. Instead, I plan on laundering it turned inside out, and since I have a front loading washer with a gentle cycle, it should be okay, particularly since the dress will hang to dry, not be sent round in the tumble dryer - I have washed an SCA dress with amber discs embroidered on it with no problem, and porcelain is a lot more robust than amber.

If I had more of these buttons, arranging them in double button mode would indeed look great... unfortunately I only have five, which is just enough to close up the dress front. Next time I get fancy buttons, I will make sure to get more than five!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on December 09, 2018, 09:20:25 PM
another thing to try is what they do at the (better) dry cleaners...might help...

wrap the buttons in aluminum foil before they go into the wash.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on December 09, 2018, 09:27:55 PM
IndigoTiger - another vote for the procelain buttons, I think they are beautiful. 

For washing, I was thinking something like Bessie below.  Or, maybe handwashing?

another thing to try is what they do at the (better) dry cleaners...might help...

wrap the buttons in aluminum foil before they go into the wash.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 09, 2018, 09:56:15 PM
I'll keep everyone posted as to how the little buttons do in the wash... after all, I am going to need to wash this dress at least once or twice before I wear it... despite pre-washing the fabric, there is still enough loose indigo that it turns my hands blue when I am working with it! I've no desire to get to the end of the day with blue skin or to dye my lingerie blue
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on December 09, 2018, 10:23:37 PM
The aluminum foil is a good cheap trick!   I was thinking of the plastic clamshells you can buy.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on December 10, 2018, 12:42:12 AM
Indigo, I do love the tiny buttons as well!

Bad news on my front, I tried on my dress and I do not like it. At all. It is a bit small, and the wool as I suspected does not have enough drape for the design.

I have a back up plan, but I am not sure I can manage it before the deadline!  Putting on my thinking cap....
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 10, 2018, 02:24:34 AM
oh Wendy - I'm so sorry that your purple dress didn't turn out like you had hoped! Will you be able to salvage the pretty fabric for a future project? Matching the right fabric to the right pattern is always a bit chancy, even if the pattern gives "suggested fabric" options. Although the pattern text suggests either fabric with good drape, or fabric with  more structure "like ikat or linen", I noticed that all the images of the dress show it made with very drapey fabrics... I'll wish very hard that you come up with an alternate dress for the challenge!!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: kushami on December 10, 2018, 04:46:12 AM
I am still hoping to join in. My dress screeched to a halt when I found out that the bust dart was wrong on the pattern tissue. I have been mulling over how to fix it for weeks.

My first thought was to patch or somehow add back to the side seam area (iron-on interfacing?), letting me recut it correctly, but I am not very good at mending. Plus the repair would coincide with the dart.

My second thought was to the top of the dress off, and add a new piece to the top, making a bodice and a waist seam. (It is an apron dress, so there is no back.) But of course I don't quite have enough fabric to cut a new bodice. So I would have to add a small yoke as well to piece together enough fabric.

Complications seem to multiply ...!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on December 10, 2018, 08:44:14 AM
Kushami...is this the dress we're talking about?

http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,1754.0.html

(can't seem to copy the picture here, first post on the other thread)

Here's how I would fix this...open up the two "side seams" from the top to an inch or so below where the corrected dart will start. Inset extra fabric along the front seam edge, do your corrections, and mark where the side edges should now go. These inserts will end up looking like gussets that you intended to have. But you need to do the same on both sides...so it looks intended.

You may have enough of the same dress fabric; you'll need only two long narrow pieces. Or use a coordinating fabric which will make this look like an intended accent bit on your dress.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: bessiecrocker on December 10, 2018, 08:50:28 AM
I'll keep everyone posted as to how the little buttons do in the wash... after all, I am going to need to wash this dress at least once or twice before I wear it... despite pre-washing the fabric, there is still enough loose indigo that it turns my hands blue when I am working with it! I've no desire to get to the end of the day with blue skin or to dye my lingerie blue

We all like the buttons! But getting rid of the extra dye makes me nervous. Why don't you do all that aggressive pre-washing--dye removal without the buttons sewn on? Simple to add the buttons once the dress is ready to wear.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: fzxdoc on December 10, 2018, 01:51:28 PM
I'm glad you're using the porcelain buttons as well, indigotiger. They look so nice against that fabric. I'm with you, they should do well with washing if your dress is turned inside out. The important thing is that you got them out of your button box and onto a garment! They must love seeing the light of day.  :D

Kathryn
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 10, 2018, 06:38:58 PM
Right pleased with my dress (which made it successfully through the washing machine buttons and all) and starting to think about the second half of the contest... taking photos, and posting here. I am a tiny bit stumped about what category to put myself in. In the initial description, CCL wrote:
Quote
  I was thinking of something like this…the idea being that if you can check off all five of the major bullets below, then you can self-define as Intermediate to Advanced and enter in that category.  If you cannot check off all five, then you can self-define as Beginner to Intermediate.  It would be up to each entrant to decide, so this list is offered as a guideline.

    * Made over 50 garments
    * Made more than 3 of the following types of garments:
        Jacket
        Shirt with stand and front band
        Coat
        Fitted dress
        Pants with fly front zipper
        Lined garment
    * Sewn garments out of more than 3 of the following:
        Lace
        Leather or faux suede
        Chiffon
        Silk Duponi
        Boucle
        Wool coating
        Fake or real fur
        Taffeta
        Satin
    * Successfully used more than 4 of the following techniques:
        Invisible zipper
        Hong Kong seams
        Welt pockets
        Underlining
        Bias binding for neck or armhole finish
        Set in sleeves
        Bound or hand made buttonholes
        Calculated for turn of the cloth
    * Used at least 3 of the following hand stitches
        Slip stitch
        Back stitch
        Catch stitch
        Pad stitch
        Whip stitch
        Blanket stitch
If I look at the five categories as far as my own sewing, I am kind of smack dab in the middle. 1. I have definitely sewn over 50 garments. 2. I have made a Viking style coat, and a lined garment, and a very casual jacket, but that is not "over three"; if the intent of #2 is a familiarity with tailoring techniques I have to say not really. 3. I have worked with lace (once, ugh), and leather, and silk dupioni, and used fur as a trim, so I call this a yes. 4. Again right in the middle, I have used 4 of these (handworked buttonholes, bias binding edges, set in sleeves, and one of my three new things for this contest was drafting for turn of the cloth) but not more than 4... so I have to call this a no. 5. I am very familiar with hand stitching and have used it on many occasions over the last almost sixty years I've been sewing, so this is a yes.

So, three yes and two no... that doesn't add up to all five of the major bullet points. It feels weird to put myself into the Beginner to Intermediate category for all the years of my sewing experience, but I hadn't really looked at my skillset with this point of view. I guess that most of my actual sewing is fairly simple. I'm definitely nothing like a beginner, but compared to those who do couture stitching, I am nowhere near advanced, either. So, fellow forum members, which category would you put me in?
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on December 10, 2018, 09:18:51 PM

So, three yes and two no... that doesn't add up to all five of the major bullet points. It feels weird to put myself into the Beginner to Intermediate category for all the years of my sewing experience, but I hadn't really looked at my skillset with this point of view. I guess that most of my actual sewing is fairly simple. I'm definitely nothing like a beginner, but compared to those who do couture stitching, I am nowhere near advanced, either. So, fellow forum members, which category would you put me in?


IndigoTiger - when I look at your garments - I see "expert."   ;D

(I am betting none of think we are Advanced...we are such a humble crowd!)

Personally, I think your two "NOs" are really Yeses. (As I think about it, I probably should have written those as "4 or more" (instead of "more than 4.") 
 
It's really hard to give ourselves an overall rating, isn't it? 

I feel completely novice about some techniques - your beautiful handwork, for example, or Bev's fantastic embellishment, Bessie's fitting, Kowgirrl's jeans  :applause2:...and I know I am really not good at those.  But there are other things I feel rather confident about - techniques for men's shirts, etc. -

The guidelines are just guidelines...so I say enter in the category you think is the closest. 
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on December 10, 2018, 09:19:34 PM
Deadline extended 24 hours!

So I looked at the calendar and realized that the 15th is this Saturday - which seemed unfair as so many of us can sew only on the weekends.  So I decided to extend the deadline to SUNDAY night 12:00 midnight...that is December 16th.

I hope that helps some folks who are dashing to finish by the deadline.

Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: indigotiger on December 10, 2018, 09:40:40 PM
Thanks CCL... I was thinking that I should put self in the "Intermediate to Advanced" category, based if nothing else on my many decades of sewing, even though there is much I would like dearly to improve in my skillset...

Here is a quick look at my new dress:
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wXn-lWjqTjY/XA7cCA8FPdI/AAAAAAAAJ10/CQvf5LouLkYIe64YEHd0yFAqO03A3r6DACLcBGAs/s1600/indigo-batik-stripe-dress.jpg)
and, as usually worn, under a pinafore:
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V2ivytEgYBw/XA7cB9tE8OI/AAAAAAAAJ1w/6Ov_mbEB0CsiE7P-wCj7fDsQQ2-NcMXOACLcBGAs/s1600/dress-with-pinafore.jpg)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: Lisanne on December 10, 2018, 10:10:47 PM
What fun Indigotiger, it looks like an ideal addition to your wardrobe.

I find CCL's skills list very enlightening.  I'm not entering this contest, but the list makes me realise - I have done all the techniques and all the hand stitches many times.  In my previous sewing lifetime in the 60s before life intervened I made many special occasion dresses and a Dior suit complete with matched asymmetric stripes.  I took it for granted I could get all the guidance I needed from Vogue couture patterns.  So I might have counted as 'upper intermediate' then.   But after many years of quilting, my return to clothes making has not been at all adventurous in either garment types or fabrics.  Interesting to think about, and I continue to think of myself now as an 'expert beginner'  ;D
Well the return has also involved a new body shape and a change from a hand cranked black and gold Singer to a computerised machine. .  .
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: warpjr1965 on December 11, 2018, 12:28:26 AM
Deadline extended 24 hours!


Oh thank you!  I will need that extra day for sure, as I'll have to fit my back up option.

And Indigotiger, I agree with everyone else that your sewing skills are best described as intermediate to advanced!  Your dress looks great!
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: stephaniecan on December 11, 2018, 02:29:48 AM
Yay re. the extension!! I am still working on my toile and that will give me a chance. I will have Sunday evening to sew. :) I'm still not sure I'll make it, but this has been a great incentive to work on a new dress.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: CCL on December 12, 2018, 03:56:31 PM
Repeating my original information on posting your photos and the next steps in the challenge...(I updated to included extended deadline).  Note I also changed the voting time period to start later to give me a little time to get everything organized.  Stay tuned... could open earlier, but won't close any earlier than listed below:

Dress Challenge Timeline and instructions for entering your creations:

Below, I hope, is a link to the Dress Challenge Gallery.   And if I understood DL's instructions correctly, I will post polls for voting in each the two competition threads after everyone who is entering has posted their photos in the gallery.

2018 Dress Challenge Gallery (http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?action=gallery;cat=22)
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: kowgiirl.up on December 12, 2018, 06:28:56 PM
Below, I hope, is a link to the Dress Challenge Gallery.

It looks like the link worked to me CCL  :applause2:

Editing to add; this is so cool that we have this capability to post photos! I'm excited to see what everyone has been working on.
Title: Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
Post by: sdBev on December 13, 2018, 04:52:57 PM
OhIndygo, your dress is so nice. You are getting two different looks by using it under the pinnafore!