Author Topic: Ottobre Magazine patterns (Read 29118 times)

bessiecrocker · « **Reply #70 on:** April 01, 2012, 11:53:05 PM »

I need some pattern help...maybe I'm just being too nitpicky.

I traced the cross over top (after "stash" and "stripe" was uttered in the same sentence.) I'm an old hand at Burda tracing, but the Ottobre tracing was more difficult than expected. I'm confused about the seam allowances on this pattern. All the places with the top-stiching/flaps to turn over seem like they need NO extra seam allowance...the flap is the approx. 1cm wide seam allowance, already included on the pattern. Right???

Now, the places without the flaps DO need a seam allowance. Right??? That's the shoulders and the side seams. (Tried to post a technical drawing, but I can't easily find one.) Putting a seam allowance on the side seam part with the pleats is somewhat complicated. Which makes me wonder if maybe you do NOT need to add any extra seam allowance. Ottobre already did it for you... MAYBE?

Basically I think this is made with knit, and it will work whatever I do. But I'd like to know if this is typical of Ottobre patterns/instructions? Everything is a bit more vague than I would like.

Pina · « **Reply #71 on:** April 02, 2012, 01:53:01 AM »

Bessie,here is an Ottobre pattern tutorial video.I'm not familiar with the pattern you are using,I hope the video is helpful to you.

shinygreenpenny · « **Reply #72 on:** April 02, 2012, 04:05:38 AM »

Bessie, I made this shirt and found the tracing more complicated than usual. You do need SA on the shirt, including the pleat areas. However, they have already added hem allowances, of which there are SEVERAL.

BTW, I found this shirt fits quite short through the bodice, but I am 5'7" so ,maybe its just me. I royally messed it up trying to lengthen the torso and had to do some major improvising to fix it, since lengthening the cross over pieces added to the width of the shirt....duh moment for me!

izzie · « **Reply #73 on:** April 02, 2012, 11:51:00 AM »

I've just traced the same Wrap top pattern, and I too am wondering how to lengthen it at the waist for a long torso. I seem to remember some directions for another wrap top that showed how to lengthen without making the neckline longer. I've googled, but so far haven't found it. Anyone have an ideas? I'm going to attempt to post a scanned pic of the tech drawings....fingers crossed!

Now that I'm looking at the drawing up on the screen....couldn't I just slash straight across from asterisk to asterisk, add the length and then fiddle with pleats?

blue mooney · « **Reply #74 on:** April 02, 2012, 03:03:28 PM »

sewzyque, thanks for that link - I think I spotted the perfect stripe for me!

Izzie, I think I'd do just what you said - slash from asterisk to asterisk and you should only be lengthening the side seams - the neckline should stay the same.

ejvc · « **Reply #75 on:** April 04, 2012, 06:48:00 AM »

I am not sure I would cut straight across, although it might work if you "fiddle with the pleats"; rather I think I'd try to fold it, assemble a coherent picture of the side seam, and decide from there. I don't have it in front of me though.

blue mooney · « **Reply #76 on:** April 04, 2012, 04:47:50 PM »

true, going straight across might get into the pleat area. A diagonal or a stair-step cut might be necessary in order to avoid critical areas like the pleats. Then just spread vertically as much as you need and true up the sides. Ottobre has thoughtfully marked the center front so you can keep everything lined up properly.

izzie, I don't know if you're new to Ottobre, but you might want to check the back waist length to be sure you need to lengthen. I'm 5'9" and the waist always hits me right with Ottobre.

I did place an order with girlcharlee that sewzyque suggested - they had lots of different stripes and good prices. They cut whole yards only, but since the prices were so reasonable, that wasn't too painful. Shipping was pretty reasonable too, so I'm very anxious for my package to get here to check out the quality!

izzie · « **Reply #77 on:** April 04, 2012, 07:49:09 PM »

Thanks so much for you your input Ladies! I did go ahead and slash across the front, but I will use some un-loved fabric to make a muslin before I cut the good stuff. I've made lots of Ottobre top patterns, and I always need to add length at the waist, effectively lowering the waist about an inch. If I don't do that, the tops flare out too soon and sort of hover above my hips.
I'm still curious about doing some kind of stair step cut, just have not figured it out yet. I think that is how the other pattern I saw was done.

sewzyque · « **Reply #78 on:** April 05, 2012, 09:25:44 AM »

You're welcome and glad you found something you liked, blue mooney. I found their service to be good with quick shipping. I had my package in NC within a week.

blue mooney · « **Reply #79 on:** April 05, 2012, 04:38:14 PM »

Yes, they are quick! I ordered on Sunday, and the USPS tracker says it will be delivered tomorrow!

bessiecrocker · « **Reply #80 on:** April 07, 2012, 01:11:05 PM »

Quote from: shinygreenpenny on April 02, 2012, 04:05:38 AM

Bessie, I made this shirt and found the tracing more complicated than usual. However, they have already added hem allowances, of which there are SEVERAL.

I put this on back burner and went off and traced the ruched sleeve top --something "normal." Makes me feel much better that I'm not the only one bewildered by this pattern. The "hem allowance" explanation totally makes sense, if you think like Ottobre!

The lengthening problem did actually occur to me when tracing...I would have the other problem, and might need to shorten it. There was no "waist" mark on the pattern, which annoyed me. The method I would use to adjust length would be to run a horizontal line from just under the front right sideseam mark (a bit lower than the right ***star mark.) Going across to the opposite side, just under the pleat marks. That way you don't mess up the neckline, nor the pleats. For longer: add, for shorter: fold. Hmmm, think this is going to need a muslin.

Izzie, thanks for posting the instructions.

blue mooney · « **Reply #81 on:** April 08, 2012, 04:33:15 AM »

I traced this pattern yesterday and it looked like Otto had marked dotted lines on the edges where they had included extra for a hem allowance - like on the sleeve openings and neckline. I might cut a little longer on the hem because sometimes their idea of a hem seems skimpy to me. That means seam allowances need to be added to shoulders and sides, if I'm correct.

Bessiecrocker, that seems to be the same conclusion you came to. I'm with you about tracing Ottobre - I find them harder to trace than Burda, even though most people say it's easier.

I was considering binding the arm openings and neckline, but I think you want a really thin and flexible hem on the front diagonal parts, and a binding would be too bulky there. And note to self, be sure to check the back length before cutting.

blue mooney · « **Reply #82 on:** April 14, 2012, 10:28:38 AM »

I made that cute crossover Martina top and alas, it is relegated to muslin status. I need to go up a size and as others have noted, add just a little bit in length. The finished length of the top is right at the waistline in back -- not a good look for me. I might have just enough to re-cut, and I hope so, because I really do like the fabric and think the style will be great when it fits right..

I'll let it wait a bit, though. It's frustrating when something doesn't work out, and starting all over again isn't fun. I think I'll sew a shirt.

izzie · « **Reply #83 on:** April 15, 2012, 02:02:09 PM »

I just did a quick and dirty muslin of the Martina top and it turned out surprisingly good. I added an inch in length to the front and back and made the size according to my bust measurement. The back is still shorter than what I would normally make, but it passes the "sit" test, no skin (or underwear) peeking out. The front is almost too long now, but that is part of the design.
It is a bit close fitting in the waist area, but I have more waist area than I actually need

I used a soft, 4 way stretch knit (you know those trendy knits that fabric mart and fabric.com had?), I wonder if a firmer knit or a 2 way stretch knit might have ended up too short.
Anyway, the pattern passes the test for me to go ahead and cut the good fabric.

blue mooney · « **Reply #84 on:** July 08, 2012, 05:17:52 AM »

21Wale posted a review of the Martina top and also needed to add length. She showed how she did it on her blog, here: http://www.21wale.com/2012/05/wrap-top-and-wrap-skirt-duo.html
and here's the review: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=77019

I bought some more stripe fabric to give this another try, because it really is so darn cute!

The scraps from my first attempt were big enough that I was able to give the Linnea top from a previous issue a try. Loved Linnea and am going to make it again. Here's a pic of how it turned out.

vtmartha · « **Reply #85 on:** July 08, 2012, 07:00:17 AM »

Very nice top, Robyn! And thanks for bringing our attention to the review of the Martina top. Her alterations worked out very well.

shams · « **Reply #86 on:** July 08, 2012, 07:22:31 AM »

Robyn, I *did* see her review yesterday. I don't get Ottobre, but I was surprised to see that the pattern is identical to a pattern that was in the Burda catalog for *years*.

Look familiar? This is Burda 8217.

Anyway, I just thought it amusing. She did a great job on hers.

blue mooney · « **Reply #87 on:** July 08, 2012, 02:21:42 PM »

Yup! I always liked that Burda pattern, too! It does look longer than the Ottobre version. And hey, it's got the famous Burda plunge neckline, too!!

ejvc · « **Reply #88 on:** August 18, 2012, 01:36:28 AM »

Hey, the line drawings for the autumn/winter 2012 women's issue are out, here:

http://www.ottobredesign.com/lehdet_js/2012_5/all-designs_5-12.pdf

Look! Look! Full-length trousers -- and these are especially good because they are modern jeans (ie skinner leg, higher rise). I've been making my jeans from their pattern from 2008 for a while, nice to see a new pattern.

But only one pair? And one skirt? That's all right I guess because of the FOUR dresses - one bubble-hem, knee-length, one crazy confection, one t-shirt/tunic style, and one 60s mod style.

And this is clearly the issue that is All About Cardigans and Coats - I count four different cardigans (two with drapes, two without) and a jacket, plus three different coats.

Two good-looking tees with bustline gathers (and one of the cardigans could easily be converted to a T), plus a fun patchwork T, and a new SHIRT pattern with an underbust seam.

Apart from TOTALLY failing to cater for my pregnant state, this looks a really good issue.

ETA: blog post from Otto here: http://ottobredesign.blogspot.com/2012/08/close-up-shots-of-ottobre-woman-52012.html -- shows some nice photos. One of the cardigan seems to be a shirt, ie made in a woven (the pale grey with sleeve ruffles).

shams · « **Reply #89 on:** August 18, 2012, 02:06:52 AM »

I agree, Elizabeth! I ordered a copy some days ago.

blue mooney · « **Reply #90 on:** August 18, 2012, 04:36:02 AM »

Sounds great, although I'm not peeking. I like to be surprised.

So Ottobre has gotten on the dress bandwagon, too? Meh. But all the coats and cardis sound really nice. And new shirt, too!

There's a bath & browse all planned for when the issue arrives.

datcat23 · « **Reply #91 on:** August 18, 2012, 04:40:13 AM »

Good grief, what is up with that long dress?

I can imagine the design brief .... "Lets see, we need something that only an excessively tall person will pass off, and look, my hips and thighs look nowhere near big enough .... I want loads of fabric to fix that". I am sorry is someone likes it, but its a bit of a fail for me.

As for the rest, I am quite excited about almost all of them. I am always on the lookout for a good t-shirt pattern, I can see a nice new overcoat for me next winter, and certainly my next challenge will be a good fitting pair of jeans. And I am very happy that all but 3 items go up to the size 52 range ..... much better than past issues. 02/2010 has pretty much become my "go to" issue, but I can see me using a lot from this issue too.

blue mooney · « **Reply #92 on:** August 28, 2012, 08:52:49 AM »

Now that my Ottobre has arrived, I can see what you all are talking about. I think this is a great issue and can see myself making and wearing almost everything in it. Even the dresses, since I don't do dresses, might be adapted for tops. So really the skirt is the only total waste as far as I'm concerned. I really like the coats, but made 2 coats last year, and I live in a short-winter climate, so don't think those will get made.

I don't know when I'll be able to dive in, since there are several things already in the queue that I really need.

barbc · « **Reply #93 on:** August 29, 2012, 07:29:59 PM »

I am really liking the styles.

I was looking at the linen tunic/dress and would love to make it, but wonder if adapting to a full bust would make it less attractive. There is something so simple about it, but it would need to fit better and that might change the whole look.

I really like that they have simple styles, with some detail.

I made a notebook of all the line drawing PDF's, but to pattern shop in it.

FrancesGrimble · « **Reply #94 on:** August 30, 2012, 07:47:47 PM »

I like the quasi-bubble dress style in "17," but made as a fairly casual dress and without that hole in the back, which seems more appropriate for a slinky evening dress. Does Ottobre sell separate patterns, as well as the magazine?

ejvc · « **Reply #95 on:** August 31, 2012, 12:17:15 AM »

Frances, not really (although they sell basic t-shirt patterns). But the magazine is about the price of a regular pattern. Go to "subscriptions" (bizarrely) off the home page and you can order single issues easily.

B in MI · « **Reply #96 on:** August 31, 2012, 05:19:13 AM »

FYI, I subscribed on Aug 18, for this issue and the next. The total cost was only $20.87 and I already received my issue. I am impressed with the turn around and what you get for the cost.

Becky

blue mooney · « **Reply #97 on:** August 31, 2012, 05:28:35 AM »

I agree, Becky. They are a good value for me, because usually there are 3 or 4 patterns that I'd like to sew. Now whether I actually get around to making all 3 or 4, that's another story.

sdBev · « **Reply #98 on:** August 31, 2012, 07:41:51 AM »

Is anyone in the US subscribing to the magazine? Where?

teddylyn · « **Reply #99 on:** August 31, 2012, 08:33:11 AM »

There are many US subscribers--a Yahoo group of them ;-). I subscribe via their website. They have awesome customer service. You can also subscribe through the Wooly Thread blog with US address.

HTH
Lynda

blue mooney · « **Reply #100 on:** August 31, 2012, 10:02:35 AM »

I subscribe directly from Ottobre.

FrancesGrimble · « **Reply #101 on:** August 31, 2012, 12:51:22 PM »

I ordered the latest issue from Etsy. I am going to take that balloon dress (the one with the hole in the back) and rework it to a long jumper pattern with no hole in the back.

B in MI · « **Reply #102 on:** August 31, 2012, 01:11:10 PM »

I subscribed directly from Ottobre.

http://www.ottobredesign.com/

Priceana · « **Reply #103 on:** August 31, 2012, 07:55:31 PM »

I have ordered single issues at Sewzanne's Fabric. Here http://www.sewzannesfabrics.com/products01.php?view=boxview&family=Ottobre%20Patterns&display=name&pg_s=0

Pipsy · « **Reply #104 on:** August 31, 2012, 08:56:45 PM »

I really like the coat. But I hate hoodies. Does anyone know of a tutorial on changing hoody to a collar, or even collarless coat or jacket?

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Author Topic: Ottobre Magazine patterns (Read 29118 times)