Finding quality fabrics

[Lorraine]

 I'm sorry if this post is not placed in a heading that might have already been started for the topic, at SG, but I'm in a hurry, so I'll move it, if I can, to a proper post heading later.   I don't want to bash a store or brand, but I made an apron from some print cotton, from JoAnn's.  I wanted to see if the print had been put onto the fabric, straight on the grain, so I tried many times to pull one thread of the material a bit all along the fabric's length or width, but as delicately as I tried, I couldn't pick up even ONE, because the "thread" of the fabric turned out to be nothing but "fluff", so there was not a true thread to pull, even though the fabric had a woven type of a weave look to it.  I was using a sturdy straight pin, as I always have done throughout the years, for that purpose.   Well, that apron probably won't last long enough, for all the work I put into making it.  At least, I, then, decided to make just a half apron without pockets, with that cheap stuff.  I had to document my opinion, here, so it doesn't look like I'm just bashing a store.  I still go there a lot for notions, but not for much material for clothes for myself, because it seems like a lot of the material is, well... just "made for JoAnn's".   I'm leary now.
 Does anyone find any brands of material, anywhere, from the "old days",  such as Cranston brand?   I need to look that one up on the internet!  How can you know quality, for any kind of fabric, when you have the fabric in your hand? 

[Doris W. in TN]

I haven't seen Cranston fabric in years.     For aprons, etc.,  your local quilt shop or sewing machine dealer will likely carry the better lines of fabric.  Most of us have to buy 'online'  due to a lack of decent fabric stores.

[famorose]

Doris,

How strange that you posted a day after I finished an apron for my granddaughter & had the same problem with a cotton fabric from Joann's.

As you said, the fabric seemed to be made of "fluff". A new 80/12 needle made big holes that looked strange. Sort of fuzzy around the edges. Even the stitches looked a bit strange in that they seemed to lay on top of the fabric instead of being "buried" into the cloth. I didn't try to pull a grain thread but noticed there didn't seem to be one to follow.

Twice in the last two years I have been the lucky recipient of a huge stash of fabrics that had been collected & stored as far back as the 1960's. Another granddaughter wanted an apron too so I picked a piece of cotton from that stash & there was a world of difference. The older fabric reminded me of an $8.00-$10.00 a yd. type of cotton that quilters use today.

Not sure but I don't think the chain fabric stores have much to do with this. Most of our fabric comes from other countries so we take what we can get??
FranA.

[Gorgeous Things]

I know the CEO of Cranston Printworks. He and I have had some lively email conversations about the state of textile manufacture here in the States, and he has been active lobbying Congress for increasing duties on imported goods. Alas, it doesn't seem to have helped. They announced recently that they will stop manufacturing (but not designing) their fabrics here in the US, which is unfortunate, but the way it seems to be going everywhere. You can see the writeup in the Providence Journal Here.

Ann

[sdBev]

I know the CEO of Cranston Printworks. He and I have had some lively email conversations about the state of textile manufacture here in the States, and he has been active lobbying Congress for increasing duties on imported goods. Alas, it doesn't seem to have helped. They announced recently that they will stop manufacturing (but not designing) their fabrics here in the US,...

I'm so sorry to read this.  I do know that there is a trend of bringing some processes and customer support back home.  There has been an ongoing problem with quality control which can only be solved at home.  Please no offense meant to my international friends. I know there are many here whom I would be proud, no honored to live right next to.   I am always concerned at how long the US can survive as only a nation of consumers. 

As for quality fabrics, I thank my lucky stars.  I have a very small shop about 15 minutes from me.  It is a variety store that packs is shelves with wonderful items.  About 10% of the store is fabrics.  Fabulous fabrics.  As is true with most of the US, many of the fabrics are prime quilting cottons.  But she does stock some very lovely home dec and fashion fabrics.  About an hour away is an award winning quilting shop.  Well, it should be award winning.  She, yes again another lady, stocks close to 800 bolts (may be more or less) of prime quilting cottons.  An hour in the other direction, another lady - is it only women that understand the allure of cloth?  Anyway, she stocks a variety of good quality fabrics.  I have this fabulous Berber cloth that I can't cut because I can't decide which pattern to use.  BTW her local variety store decided to compete with her in "Walmart Fashion" i.e they purchased cheap fabrics and notions.  Guess what?  They opened their fabric and crafts with 3 long rows filled on either side.  It's down to a third of that and mostly, mostly cheap yarns.  1.5 hours from me, is a store that I'm glad is 1.5 hours from me.  Everytime I want something specific, they fill the need.  Now it is 2 women that run the store, one full time one part time, but I don't know who owns the store or who decides what is stocked.  But I do know that I've bought wonderful, fabulous wools for $15/yard . They arer well aware of the clientele.  DH is always drooling over the camouflage fabrics which sell for between $8-$15/yard.  Until he understood that I actually like to sew for him, he'd leave the fabric in the store.  We can buy what he needs cheaper at the local Cabala's and in the very same patterns stocked by my store.  Then on down the road 3.5 hours I have several really great stores in Sioux Falls SD.  I quit going to JoAnns which is there.  Both Hancocks (which I know some of you aren't really fond of, but I like my store in Sioux Falls) and the Mill Ends store both get really really good fabrics.  There is crap in both stores.  Unfortunately they do have to compete with Walmart.  So they offer the same crap that Walmart would.  OK, I need to eat my words.  I just bought about $25 worth of $1.50 (even Walmart doesn't do $1 fabrics anymore).  I got a variety of cottons and sheers.  I think the sheers are poly, but haven't given them a burn test yet.  My point being, Walmart doesn't always just offer pure crap.  Anyway, I thank my lucky stars, I'm in a place where I can go, find and buy good fabrics.  I really need that tactile experience that on-line just can't give me.

[Lorraine]

I'm, finally, replying to ALL of you who responded to my topic!  At first, I couldn't find the "Reply" button, so it took awhile for me to say "Thank you."   Then, I thought to login again, and it popped up, so maybe that was what I needed to do, as I have a new computer?!?!?!?  So here I am, now, to say Thank you, Ann, for the link to the Cranston article!   I mentioned that particular brand, because I remember merely happening to buy it a few times, in the 70's and, I think, 80's.  It was nicely made material.  Also, I bought some of it, (eureka!!!) at an estate sale, a few years ago... with that same quality feel to it...a bit of deja vu to own some more Cranston brand!  I haven't researched any brand names that have a dependable reputation.  It would be fun to do so.  I must say that it is so pleasing, actually JOYFUL, to have all of you sewing friends here at SG!  So many nice people!  Kudos to you all!!!  

[Doris W. in TN]

Lorraine,  while one can find some decent fabrics at big box chain stores, they are mostly cheaper quality with lots of sizing and "fluff"  in the threads to fill it out.

I have gotten the occasional bad fabric at quality quilt shops, but that has been rare.    I have used JoAnn fabric on occasion in a quilt (and garment) and gotten away with it.  It's not all bad, but it's not the same quality as (for example) Moda.   Often you can feel the quality in your hands.

[lessalt]

I am not a quilter but over the years I have purchased asian style quilt fabric for various craft projects. It's good quality cotton and not cheap. I have noticed some fabric at JoAnns with the exact same designs and colorations but it is obviously not the same quality. It's a little cheaper than the quality goods but not by much. I am thinking that the fabric vendors use the same patterns in different qualities?

[Gigi Louis]

I'm not much of a quilter but I do often buy quilting cottons for placemats and napkins.  It's very, very rare that I can find anything of quality at JoAnn's.  There are a couple of really nice quilt shops in town so I usually buy my cottons there.  Of course they are a lot more expensive but so worth it because they last.  Online, Hancock's of Paducah and Over The Rainbow are also great places to buy quality quilting cottons.

[NancyDaQ]

I have noticed some fabric at JoAnns with the exact same designs and colorations but it is obviously not the same quality. It's a little cheaper than the quality goods but not by much. I am thinking that the fabric vendors use the same patterns in different qualities?

Yes, exactly. There are different levels of griege goods that are printed with the same design, so it's possible to find the same print but with different quality fabrics.

[tileman]

Something I learned while interviewing for a sales job at an upscale fabric store. A manufacturer will print up a set number of yards and then sell the printing blocks to another company who then prints using a lesser quality/weight fabric. It's how you stores can offer the same print but at a lower price.

Jeff in Va

No, I didn't get the job. Full-time work, no benefits, no time off. No way!

[Doris W. in TN]

While we're on the topic of fabric quality (ahem)   I recently bought some Free Spirit flannel for a project.  I know flannel will shrink in the length.  That's a given.

 After the first pre-wash in hot water & tumble drying, it shrank three inches  --- in the WIDTH.    It is sold as 44/45" wide, and I got 41" width after the first pre-shrink process.     I had to go buy more of it, since I needed the width.   They apparently used their stretchers to get it to the stated width on the bolt.   Argh.....

[karent]

Agree with all of the above.  Just a thought, in the future if you really want to see the grainline, can you tear it?  Yes, it distorts a lot more than pulling a thread, but if you really want to see the straight, and it's woven, should work.  K

[noparc]

I have found an unusual, though "thrifty" way to find quality fabrics. I am sure most of you have thrift stores in your area. Believe it or not, there are many piles of fabric being donated to these shops. They are typically from estates of the deceased, and you know how fabric piles up through the years. I have found many pieces to use for quilting and dresses, as well as table cloths and crafting uses. I know I have a closet full of fabric, due to our local fabric store going out of business a few years back, but when I need something "homespun" or quality I usually check the thrift stores first. I have found yards and yards of wonderful fabrics that would just go to waste if not purchased at the thrift stores. Please, everyone keep it in mind. Most thrift stores benefit a local organization, or even a national one, and are good sources of fabrics, notions and sometimes the rare item you might need to finish off a project properly.

[LauraS.]

I have to agree with Noparc regarding the fabric at the thrift stores. The GW store opened up in town and I found they carried some fabrics, good wools and cottons.  I've even walked away with several yards of silk for well under $5. I was visiting it very Friday afternoon on the way home from work.  They do trash all patterns I was told.  I've picked up some good sewing books there also.  I pretty much don't purchase fabric at Joanne's anymore.  If I search thoroughly I can sometime find a nice cotton or wool blend.

[Shadowe]

Thrift stores are a wonderful resource for many things, fabric being only one of them!  It is also a good place to look for quality clothing and household goods.  I have found many things there that are old, great quality things including small appliances and wonderful bathroom fixtures and lights.  Plus buying there, saves our landfills as well.

[minggiddylooloo]

I currently live in S. Korea w/ access to a gigantic fabric market in Seoul, as well as a warehouse near my city that sells cotton quilting fabrics. As far as I can tell, the warehouse buys remnants from factories here in Korea, and they have many fabrics that are from Michael Miller, Vera Bradley, Alexander Henry, etc. I have even seen bolts that have "Designed for JoAnns" on the selvedge edge.

I am not a quilter but I go to this place often enough to look for fabrics that I will use to sew garments. The name brand fabrics definitely have a better feel of quality in regards to thickness, sheen, and color saturation compared to the other fabrics, especially the made for JoAnns stuff. Prices are the same for fabrics of the same width, and I have usually come w/ fabrics from the designer brands because of quality and print selection. There might be a chance that some of these fabrics come from Chinese mills, but I don't know how cost effective that would be (given this is an outlet type of place) since these yardages are sold between $3-4 USD/yd.

[SewingLibrarian]

Question for thrifters: do you go very frequently? I never seem to find anything when I go, but I admit I don't go very often. Maybe one needs to pop in weekly? Or daily? Or maybe I'm in an area where the stores aren't very good, who knows. I envy those of you who find great things in thrift stores.
Linda

[fzxdoc]

That Seoul fabric market must be an interesting place to visit, minggiddylooloo. Do you have any photos of it?

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Kathryn

[tumblina]

Question for thrifters: do you go very frequently? I never seem to find anything when I go, but I admit I don't go very often. Maybe one needs to pop in weekly? Or daily? Or maybe I'm in an area where the stores aren't very good, who knows. I envy those of you who find great things in thrift stores.
Linda

It so totally depends on the area and who donates what. I've been really, really lucky with some things, never on others, and 80% of the time don't walk out with what I went in there for if I do buy something. But the gold nuggets you weren't looking for make it worth it! Around here I can sometimes get patterns (60s/70s if I'm lucky, lately it's been all 80s though), natural fibre sweaters to pull apart, buttons, and XL clothing in natural fibres to use as yardage. I've never found fabric that wasn't way too expensive for the amount and the unknown-fibres aspect of it. I could get sheets, etc for muslins at one chain but I keep forgetting to go there - the big second hand stores charge way too much for them IMO . So far no one with a good stash has donated it!

I do have knee-high leather boots I got for $18 though .

As for frequency - I go as often as my stash storage allows. Which is about 5 times a year  .

[sdBev]

Question for thrifters: do you go very frequently? I never seem to find anything when I go, but I admit I don't go very often. Maybe one needs to pop in weekly? Or daily? Or maybe I'm in an area where the stores aren't very good, who knows. I envy those of you who find great things in thrift stores.
Linda

You need to go frequently and with an open mind.  I've purchased sheets and curtains for the fabric content or just the trim.  When they have the bag sales. I buy just for the buttons.  As others have pointed out, this is a great place for inspirations.  Mostly we've talked about sewing techniques of the very good designers, but dont' forget to look for pocket details, closure details and the like.  Last trip, I bought 2 belts, for the unique ends - the belts themselves are trash. Although one is leather and wide enough to cut  appliques for a purse.  Beware though as soon as I start hunting through, people start crowding me.  It's as if they think I know something that they don't and I've had the funny experience where someone has 'stolen' my intended purchase.  I had a small pile of fabrics I wanted.  This person started hoovering around me and I watched from the corner of my eye as he - yes a he- reached in two fingers and grabbed one of my fabrics.  He immediately turned his back and walked as fast as he could to the cash register.  Before I got there the fabrics were a mess and a half and no body was interested.  I would lift the fabric, look at it, fold it and either place it back on the shelf or in my cart.  It was obvious that this was a fabric I intended to purchase.  I thought it was too funny that someone would steal a fabric worth $1.50-$2 inside the store from another customer!   

[minggiddylooloo]

That Seoul fabric market must be an interesting place to visit, minggiddylooloo. Do you have any photos of it?

I do have pictures but they are still on my computer. HOWEVER, I can share this Youtube video on DongDaeMun fabric market:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=la3zBJ7-OdU.

As far as I know the market is actually only 4 buildings/5 floors each and not 5 buildings like the guy said in the video, but really, with 4200+ vendors, it will take a few days to see everything.... That's why I am up there almost every week!

And don't forget the sewing machine part of Seoul, and another older market right behind DDM that sells primarily remnants. Korea is really a shopper's paradise, whether you're interested in RTW or raw materials, it's somewhere in Seoul.

[fzxdoc]

Thanks for the link, minggiddylooloo. My goodness, is that place ever massive. How would you ever remember where you saw a certain fabric? I guess you just have to buy as you go along.

Kathryn

[mcgintie]

In London UK, , Goldhawk Rd has about half a dozen shops close together and next to the underground (tube) - I haven't differentiated between them here. Good fabrics for me were silk jerseys at £12 a metre (one had black rayon jersey labelled as silk) washed silks (woven), dupion silks in every colour, men's suit remainders - mostly lightweight stripes in wool and cashmere mix (about £12 a metre) (these would be perfect for Marcy Tilton skirts), and an interesting Missoni knit in purple and green (may have been a seventies original). All mixed in with some very garish colours and even cheaper stuff. Oh, and some purple poppy print knit at £2.99 from the current Top shop range (slightly misprinted but still looks good). And a couple of them had shirt style stripey material - very rare elsewhere in the UK just now. Well worth a  visit if you are the sort of person who doesn't get side tracked by lime green oilcloth.
John Lewis Oxford St is full of mother of the bride fabrics. I suppose that's what sells in the spring here.