Doing my first full bust adjustment

[sew-journ]

I am going to be doing my first full bust adjustment.  I am using the instructions in Real Fit for Real People.  I'm going to do the three cuts as they show, do the "spreading" of the pattern, use paper beneath to fill the gaps and lots of tape.  The pattern has front darts and I think I understand the concept.  Do I have to do anything with the back of the shirt?  Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

Yvonne

[Lisa]

I am going to be doing my first full bust adjustment.  I am using the instructions in Real Fit for Real People.  I'm going to do the three cuts as they show, do the "spreading" of the pattern, use paper beneath to fill the gaps and lots of tape.  The pattern has front darts and I think I understand the concept.  Do I have to do anything with the back of the shirt?  Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

Yvonne

Hi Yvonne!

I'm sure more advice will be coming soon, but thought I'd ask if you traced your pattern?  If not, you might want to do so.  That way, you can work on the traced front, and will have the original to go back to if you need to start over.

As to the back, many who make an FBA discover that their back is narrower, so check the fit of the back against your back.  Sometimes you discover that your shoulders/back are a smaller size than you thought (making the FBA from a smaller size can sometimes be the good-idea result if that's the case).  

When you finish with your FBA manipulations, you need to "walk" the side seams to make sure that they are the same length.  Fold out your newly adjusted darts (so that the side seam on the new pattern will be the same length as it will be on your garment after the darts are sewn), then match up the side seams from the "new front" to the unaltered back.  

HTH,

Lisa

etc: typos two instances of "FGA" to "FBA"

[makeupmaven]

Lisa,

Great advice and often forgotten even by experienced sewers.

Gail

[sew-journ]

Thank you so much.  With out your advice it could have been a sad Sunday.....  that's when I will begin cutting and sewing.  I kinda knew there had to be more to it.
Thanks again

[kid_md]

Great advice!  My experience (FWIW) has echoed the size change.  I sewed a 14 before making an FBA and now sew a 10 usually (in Big 4 patterns).  I would add that once you have slashed and spread, and completed your FBA, be sure to re-check your dart position.  All that maneuvering of the pattern often lowers the dart.  Just fit the tissue onto you or your dress form and make sure that it still points to your bust point.  You may have to raise it, which you can do just by cutting out a box around the dart and taping it into the correct spot, then filling with tissue below and truing your seam line.

Good luck, and enjoy your new skill!!  An FBA will make such a difference in the fit that you will get in your clothing.  It is totally worth the trouble and the learning curve.

[sew-journ]

Well, it is now cut and basted together.  All darts are in good position, I am loving that it moved my armhole up, which really needed to happen.  I took a break but will be making my facings soon and that will be the true test of whether I did it right or not.  For now my blouse is on my dress form.  The front closure is soooo much better.  Well, maybe I'll even post a picture when I am done.  So far it is really turning out nice.  Thank you everyone for all of your assistance.  I've learned so much just lurking around here.  So many of you are such incredible seamstress's.  Thank you.