Nancy Erickson/FSG Patterns & Newsletter 4

[sewfashion]

You're right Marcia--if it isn't broken, why fix it

Carolyn, one of the fastest, easiest ways to add a pocket that doesn't really show, is to do an onseam.  Even on a short jacket, you could do it at waist level to slightly above, almost like a kangaroo pocket but one that doesn't show.  It's really easy on the 1945 and 1945C since it's just between the middle front and side front panels.  It takes almost no time at all and you get the benefit of a pocket without really constructing anything on the outside at all.  They can be very flat, but they're sure handy sometimes.  I wrote about it actually in this next newsletter...there are times we want a jacket, but we want it fast and easy too.  This is a great solution and particularly good for textured, plaid or fabrics that need to match, or if you like to accessorize with a pin or scarf and don't want pockets in the way as a distraction.  Plain fabrics sometimes need the detail of pockets more.

If you've already cut out without adding an extension like it's shown in the Jackets Workbook, then just add a strip of your garment fabric to the pocket panels at the edge that meets the seams--attach the pocket bags to the seam in a 1/4" seam too--that will give you a little more extension too.  Or if your fabric is lightweight enough, fabric for the panel that's attached to the side panel, lining where it's attached to the middle front.

[Christine C.]

Marcia - I thought I was the only one that varied top sleeve length based on fabric supply.  Glad to hear it's not just me.  It's usually because I've changed my mind about what I'm going to do with the fabric between the time I buy it and the time I sew it.
I definitely prefer the onseam pocket.  However, I have successfully made some nice (in the seams) patch pockets on short 1945C jackets.  It works best with a tweed type fabric because then they become almost invisible and you have a nice usable pocket.
Christine

[Sueh]

  And the older I get the worse I am.  Maybe I should start making aprons!!

Marciae, I did start making aprons. I'm going with 1945a for the navy woven texture.

[marciae]

Can you hurry so I can see it made up to help me decide!!   I'm thinking I'll "probably" do the C version as I've been wanting to try that.  While I love the classy tailored jackets - something more casual fits my lifestyle better.  This fabric made into a C would be a pretty classy "casual" jacket!

[Sueh]

Marciae,  I've got a 1962 in fleece cut out and a couple of those aprons.  Then comes the 1945c in the navy woven texture.  I could use a couple of snow days in my sewing room.  Sounds to me like you need to go through Nancy's decision list from the last news letter about which jacket you want to make the navy woven in.  That list of questions sure has helped me.  It helped clean out a lot of patterns that I will never make or make again.  I cleaned out a lot of fabric that I will never use or will use for muslins.  And I know it will help me in making clothes I will wear in my real life and not my fantasy life.  Right now my sewing room is a little scary because it is so tidy.    I need to get busy in there. 

[marciae]

Very good idea.  Sometimes I do tend to sew for a 'fantasy' life.  Also, I've been retired for 7 years - but when I see really nice wools, etc I think - that would make a great work....... fill in the blank!  AND I love being retired I have no regrets about the life I'm living.  Guess I'll do some serious reading tonight!!  Thanks for the tip.

[Carolyn]

I'm leaning toward patch pockets at the waist on this jacket embellished with fringe.  I may also add some bead trim on top of the fringe.  I saw something similar in Macy's with gold chain.  I'm putting fringe along the front edges and neckline.  I hope to have this jacket finished to wear to the expo in Atlanta in two weeks with a pair of jeans. 

[Nyla 49]

Speaking of expo (Carolyn) I am missing the Sewing Expo in Puyallup for the first time in 20 years   I am sure they will survive financially without me, but there must be some vendors who are wondering, "Where in the world is Nyla?"

[LibrarianAtWork]

Carolyn, you know about the easy way to do the patch pockets, right? Sticking them in the seams between the middle fronts and the other pieces? I always do them that way now. I wonder if anyone has tried Jan Raley's method of making a welt pocket? It's in Nancy's book and was in one of the newsletters. I keep meaning to try it but haven't yet. Would be interested to hear how it went from anyone who has tried it.
Linda

[Carolyn]

I've thought about that and may do it that way.  I have already sewn the front seams, but can always do a little ripping.  I've decided to sew up the shell and try it on, then mark where i want to place the pockets.  I may try placing the pockets between the seams.  That would make it nice and neat.  I'll lpost pictures when I decide and get them on the front.

Thanks for the suggestions. I think one of my favorite things about sewing is just pondering what I am going to do with details as I put something together.  And then following through with the process. 

Would would we do without sewing?  (Come to think of it, I can tell you where I would be.  With a much cleaner house and an organized closet!!!!)

[marciae]

Here's two of my tops, the cardigan and the scarf.  I have the green slinky top on - with my brown slacks and jacket!!  This green knit is from March of 08.  I'm making the jean jacket out of the yellow spring tweed from same issue.

[/img]

[Carolyn]

Marciae, your top, cardigans, and scarves look terrific! The material for my jacket I'm working on is from that issue, too.  I may have to borrow your green top!!!   You have been doing some serious sewing!

[marciae]

Marciae, your top, cardigans, and scarves look terrific! The material for my jacket I'm working on is from that issue, too.  I may have to borrow your green top!!!   You have been doing some serious sewing!

Is it the yellow tweed?

[Carolyn]

I bought the green tweed.  I also bought a piece of coral that I think is from that same mailout.

[marciae]

I have the green tweed along with the matching solid.  It's on the cutting table - but need to finish the jeans, pants and jacket first!!

[MaryOK]

Just poppin' in to say I'm working on a 1945 for my daughter.  She is in her first year at law school, and needs to start building her professional wardrobe.  She starts a job at one of her professors' law firms next week (she says this is NOT like Legally Blonde).

I had her try on my first 1945, which is a little big in the shoulders for me, to get a sense of the size I should cut and the sleeve length.  I let her shop my stash and she picked out a nice piece of navy wool, which has a very subtle texture.

Using the extra pattern tissue Nancy sent subscribers in the last year or so, I bravely cut the tissue, rather than trace it.  SO much faster.  I used wax paper and a compass to make separate interfacing patterns (with a scant seam allowance cut away) and cut the interfacing and underlining.  It took about  3 hours last night to cut the body and interfacing.  I'm fusing now (my least favorite part of the process).

[blue mooney]

Nice pic, Marciae. Thanks for sharing.

Mary, you are brave, to cut the tissue. I'm always afraid that I'll want to go back to the original. And I completely agree with you about fusing. That's my least favorite part of any project.

[marciae]

Finished my NE sueded poly deep tourquoise pants this morning.  I'm really 'into' these elastic waists.  I put in the pockets - and do a mock fly front (no zipper, just the fold over and top stitching) attach the waist band, insert elastic, stitch elastic, press - walla - instant gratification.  I really urge all of you to try it.  I've been a big fan of NO elastic pants - they're for old folks!!   But, I always wear my tops out - so who would ever know the difference!! (Thank you Nancy for bringing that back to light!!)  I can whip up a pair of slacks in nothing flat.  HOWEVER - you should remember to cut off the front stay of the pocket!!   I just serged them off - worked great but used more silk then I needed!!

[marciae]

My NE top and pants.  While I like my pants long - I do need to take these up a bit!  These are my elastic waist pant!





ETA - If you look on "Jeans sew along" you can see the marine knit top - I'm wearing it with my jeans.

I'm just now realizing "how" much sewing I did do last month!!  Maybe that's why the house is screaming for attention??

[Carolyn]

Marciae ,

Those look great.  I have almost finished my next 1945 jacket and like it even better than my first!  I decided that since it was a short jacket, I didn't really want pockets, just embellishment.  So I made my  own trim of fringe  with beads and sewn on top.  Then sewed the trim onto the front panel between seams.   As you can see by the picture, I also added fringe around the neck and front.

I have to finish heming the bottom and sleeves.  Then add the lining.  That shouldn't take much time to do.  I want to line it with silk organza since it's a spring/summer jacket and I live in AL.  I think I have just enough to cut left from a previous project for the lining.

[MaryOK]

Lovely jacket, Carolyn!

[marciae]

Gorgeous jacket Carolyn.  I love the no collar!!  Your choice of fabric is great.

[DebraMartin]

Carolyn, I love the trim and the button detail.  Great job!

[Lisanne]

Wow Carolyn, that is really special !

[sewfashion]

 

Great work you two!  Marcia, you are getting to be really prolific and such easy to wear pieces that are just what you need, not for the fantasy Marcia's life, though I know she's probably still in there.  It's great to see you produce such neat knit sewing--sometimes knits can look a little tired, but these all have a nice crispness to them, from careful pressing as you work.  Too often, knits can look tired when there isn't the same attention paid to the workmanship as a woven.  You've done a very nice job.

Carolyn.  What can I say?  That is just fabulous.  Love the detail and especially how well it looks just P-E-R-F-E-C-T!  If perfection is the goal that's not always the destination, I'd say you pulled into Perfect Town with this one.  I may have to have a jacket myself out of that.  Did you just use bias strips for the pocket trim and then selvage for the edges?  I have a habit of cutting off the selvages with a seam allowance on any fabric that has great edges--part of the madness of"just in case" sewing.  While I intend to use them on a fabric that doesn't have a great selvage, that's only happened one time while I must have a dozen great lengths of fringe--just in case....

I'd say that your sewing time is well spent...what do you think?  Several hundred dollars worth of clothing on display here--just imagine what your payment would be for your time.  Isn't it nice to know that it's so worthwhile and I'm sure inspirational for others as well.  I like the no collar 1945, Carolyn...also consider putting a hidden button under the lapel and a thread loop along the opposite lapel edge.  It will give you another way to wear this.

Thank you for being such great examples of the patterns and fabrics.  

[Carolyn]

Thanks for the comments.  I have sewn in the lining and just need to attach it at the hems and give it a good pressing.

Nancy, I tried the selvages but didn't care for them.  For the pocket trim, I cut strips crosswise, sewed them to some ribbon and frayed the edges.  I then purchased strands of beads and sewed them in place.  I had seen something similar at Macy's with gold chain, but couldnt' find any chain I liked.  I think this looked even better.  For the edges, I also used crosswise strips.  I tried fraying in both directions to see which I liked best.

I am really into these jackets now.  I'll probably do a review on Patternreview tomorrow.  The only reviews at this point are the original 1945 that I've seen.  This may give people an idea of the potential.  Next is the coral piece I purchased from Nancy.  I'm thinking of making the v neck version but am not sure yet.

Nancy, the sewing time is definitely well spent.  I love the entire process (except maybe the cutting out!) from planning to implementing.  Then, when I wear it to work, everyone will say, "You didn't make that, did you?"  I love good, quality clothing, and a good fit.  I would much prefer to create than pay out the big bucks.  Besides, I would never be able to get the fit the way I wanted it.  I am definitely inspired by everyone on this website.


I have a daughter and sewed much of her clothing when she was growing up.  I feared she was tiring of "homemade" in high school and would take her out shopping.  She would often try on something and say, "mom, I really like this dress, but could you make it in blue and add a seam here or there?"  Now that is a reason to keep sewing!

[patk]

Ooh, Carolyn, it's gorgeous!

[ejvc]

Carolyn, that's a very lovely jacket, and Marcia, I thought the marine print top you showed on another thread was fabulous.

[sewfashion]

In response to a few emails about Carolyn's jacket--if you're following along in the Jackets Workbook, the fabric strips being sewn onto ribbon for trim is on page 144.  The green and ivory cotton/linen fabric has the colors evenly distributed, as Carolyn confirmed were cut on the crosswise and then frayed.  I looked at the bolt again, and I see that the selvages didn't have as long a fringe as you were able to create for the edges.  That's a detail from good judgement and taste...great work is sometimes measured in fractions, isn't it?  And the bead trim is so much nicer than chain--you won't have to then worry about "silver" or "gold" for accessories.  

All of your choices were well executed and ideal to the garment.  That's really one of the hardest things to accomplish with sewing, though it can also be the most fun.  I'll bet there was a lot of smiling during this project as you put those final finishing touches in place.  Creative sewing is much more fun when you don't have to worry about the fitting!  That was done once and now you can enjoy this fun part.  I think Joan, Mary, Marcia, Linda, Pat and many others have demonstrated this over the years here too.  (I'm sorry if I missed anyone, but I'm racing to get the newsletters stuffed.)  It's the most fun part about sewing--if I had to fit every single project, it would drain much of the fun from this part that we all enjoy the most.  It's just lovely to have you display what I've been preaching forever....   By eliminating the need for fitting, plus the collar, pockets and sleeve vents, you zipped through this I'll bet faster than you thought, particularly after that first labor of steely determination.  You sew, girl!  May all of your projects give you as much satisfaction and inspiration for others.

[sewfashion]

During this period of fashion weeks for fall2010/winter 2011, many designers are using marketing/ad campaigns that feature the history and workmanship of their house.  We saw Chanel do this with its video diary of the Paris/Shanghai collection, their early fall presentation, and here's one from Dolce and Gabbana who presented a very different point of view.  
http://www.dolcegabbana.com/dg/fashion-show/woman/video_runway

You may have already seen a Gucci ad featuring the workroom from 1920, and the Missoni family and I do mean familia--there are dozens working for the company...the third generation now. Marc Jacobs sent out a runway of grey flannel with long A-line skirts, so there is a return to tailoring in all of its forms though D & G used many knits in a tailored silhouette.  Something that should greatly appeal to all of us.  When I go to market in the next few weeks, I know just what I'm going to search for amongst my favorite vendors....

[Doris W. in TN]

I love the buttons, Carolyn, and the trim is the perfect scale.   Great jacket~!

[marciae]

Tailored knits, you say - - as my ears perk up!!   I love some of the 'beefier' knits that you've had thru the years.  And I LOVED the drape and feel of the marine knit!!

[SewingLibrarian]

Wall St Journal is covering the collections and talked this morning about the return to tailoring and (gasp!) matching suits!! They showed a couple of them including a D&G and mentioned that the D&G show closed not with a fancy gown but with an "impeccably tailored coat." That's good news as far a I'm concerned, although how it will play out in casual Southern California remains to be seen.
Carolyn, I'm late posting this, but still want to say I think your jacket is lovely. I may come to your house and steal it to wear with my skirt, now that matched suits are going to be back in style!
Linda

[Carolyn]

Thanks, Linda.  Maybe you can have my jacket for a month, and then return it with your skirt and I'll wear it for a month.  I'd love to see the skirt you made.

I really like the longer a line skirts I'm seeing for fall.  They have always been one of my favorite pieces, and I'm glad to see they are coming back.  It gets so confusing sewing for spring that's just starting, and looking at the fall shows!

[joan71]

I haven't been active at SG for a few months, but I have checked in to read your posts often.  It has been a treat to see all your lovely garments and to sense your enthusiasm for how  pleased you have been with the outcome.  I need to do a little tweak for my pants pattern (1961)..........if my butt drops and flattens much more it will be like a little bump behind my knees.
I look forward to see your spring wardrobes develop.  I need the inspiration, keep it up.

Joan