Bog Coats

[marciae]

sdBev mentioned that she had a bog coat on her UFO/Orphan list and the discussion below developed from that mention.  Bev suggested that the bog coat discussion be broken out as its own thread.  Please enjoy that continued discussion here.   Lisa

Bev - a bog coat??  I hadn't thought of one of those for a while.  I've made several of them - but haven't in the probably 10 years.  Haven't worn them in that long either??  Need to dig them out and see what they'll match!!  Elizabeth is right - if it doesn't fit - pitch or do a quick finish and donate to goodwill!!

[sdBev]

Bev, I can help you with some of those.  Throw away the ones that won't fit!

Elizabeth

Excellent suggestion!  I'm sure Elizabeth is aware but others reading this topic may not know that I've been working toward the perfect fitting pants.  I now have a wearable pattern. If necessary, I could use this pattern make a pair of pants in an hour or two and be on my way to where ever I need to be.  But I want the perfect fitting pants, both knit and woven fabrics. That's one of my 2010 promises to myself, is to continue working on the perfect fit.  But in the meantime I have amassed numerous pants that don't fit and need some sort of camouflage to be worn.  Initially I had thought I would baste all the seams and keep all the scraps so that I could alter these.  Now I'm of the opinion I could probably make new faster than I can rip out and alter.  So those will definitely be going in the thirft shop bag or rag bag. 

The other items on my list, well I  need to work on them.  DH's request for more kitchen towels and mitts really appeals to me.  I like the idea that he wants these clean.  His minimum is changing every other day.  That's only 4 good sets.  Problem is the mitts I buy are not sturdy enough for him.  The mitts that are quick and easy to sew don't have enough heat protection for him.  Since he rarely sets the over above 350 degrees, I'm surprised.  I have determined how much padding he needs, it's just thick and hard to sew even with my Bernina 1630.  Point is, even though I lament adding those to the UFO list, I'm more than willing to make all 6 sets for him.  Last night, I did get some planning and rough cutting done.  Fortunately these sew up quickly. 


I didn't put away the bog coat, because one of my projects this year is to explore Ardele Margoli's "Make Your Own Patterns" book.  After 30 days, I'm still in Chapter 1 Exploring geometric gems, in particular the rectangular gem.  I'm posting these on my blog as I complete a project.  I really feel the bog coat is an important rectangular gem.   I don't have one or a version there of hanging in my closet, I very much want to complete and post a Bog coat. 

Anyway, did nothing with closet today.  Today was "Sewing Saturday" at my house.  Which usually means no sewing whatsoever, but instead watching the various sewing programs on Public TV.  And of course, I accumulated another must do project just watching TV.  It's a rectangular gem.  Can't pass it up.

[Betty F]

I have never heard of a bog coat.....or a rectangular gem for that matter.

Isn't life interesting.

[marciae]

I have never heard of a bog coat.....or a rectangular gem for that matter.

Isn't life interesting.

Bog coats are 'ancient' - if memory serves me right - - a mummy was found in one and that's how they started.  About 15 years ago there was a lot written and lots of folks that I knew (including me) were making a lot of them.  There was a book put out about that time  - Beyond the Bog - or something like that.  Last year the local ASG group had a one afternoon workshop on making a Bog coat - and then Bev mentioned.  If you wait long enough everything comes back into play.  A friend in Boulder made a bog coat in purple velvet - stunning - she wore it to the operas and the phil!!  Her husband hated it because people were continually stopping her commenting on it!!  I'll google and see if I can find more about them.  Shirley Adams showed them in fleece made for children.  Basically it's a retangle - you measure around your bod to get the width of the fabric you need - then you add a 'filler' piece - I used batting - then the 'lining' piece - these are sewn together - either in a design - I'd sort of follow the design on the pattern.  You go down "so" many inches and cut a long slash in the fabric - both sides - cut a neck opening - then the fabric is folded down to make the sleeves - and the fabric under this is folded to the middle to give the coat definition.  It is all bound with bias trim.  I'm not very good at explaining!!  I used cottons, rayon, batik, cordroy.  Never used velvet - but it was 'always' on my to do list!!

ETA http://crochet.craftgossip.com/bog-jacket/2008/12/30/  However, this one is knitted -

[sdBev]

Bog coats are ancient.  I didn't know about the one of the mummy though.  They were named bog coats because archeologist kept finding people in the "bogs" wearing these coats.  They are both surprsingly simple and sophisticated.  My original exposure came through a Balenciaga version in which the designer added a few darts and easing to make stunning versions.  One thing I do find is that with my pear shape, I need to get verticals going.  When I make the bog coat, I include a front binding that goes up from the hem around my neck and all the way down to the other hem in front.  I try to do something to that binding, any extra embellishment goes here; contrasting fabric is good.  Anything to add the vertical line otherwise, I look frumpy -- like I just crawled out of the bog.

It is a wonderful use of fabric, BTW.  You can make a coat out of an amazingly small amount of fabric.  For me that's about a yard and a half and I have used less by applying bindings.  It is better than most art-to-wear patterns.  You still have a large surface for any art you want to make, but you don't look like you're wearing the-quilt-that-went-wrong.


I thought I'd embarass myself by adding a photo of my closet.  It's actually 2 photos joined together:

 
Some of that is empty boxes ( I was planning to sell some things and knew I would need empty boxes and packing); there is also some machine knitting in there too. I doubt that I get it all cleared up in the next month, but I thought making my issue public, I might less inclined to ignore the problem.

And I did finish something; my table runner:

[Betty F]

Well, you learn something new everyday!  Bog coats sound like a lot of fun.  Maybe a topic for our local sewing guild.  

I'm off to Fabricville to see if that boiled wool is still on buy 1 get 2 free.  There should be a bog coat or two in my future!

Edited to add these links. Turns out there is a lot of info online about this topic:

• http://www.marcusbrothers.com/makeit/projects/bog_coat/index.html
• http://www.mtnladyarns.com/weaving.pdf

[Lisa]

All posts earlier than this one were originally part of the "UFO/Orphan support anyone?" thread.  If you believe that a post still there should have been moved, or than a post not moved should have been, please let me know!

Please continue the interesting discussion of bog coats here!

Lisa

etc: word "thread" to "post" as the 6th word in the 2nd sentence above.

[Lisa Laree]

Threads magazine had an article about bog coats a few years back; as someone who frequently makes costumes for church productions, it caught my eye as a likely candidate for a biblical-era costume.  Actually made it up a couple of times for that purpose...it does work well!

I've got pictures of one of them on this blog post:
Bog Coat Jesus Costume

Interestingly, it's one of the posts the search engines hit frequently.

[marciae]

Great coat/costume Lisa!

[AnnRowley]

I made this one about four years ago - when this embellished fabric was fashionable.

                     
                            Click on the photo for more details.

It was a charted pattern, from a long-forgotten source.

The fabric hasn't worn well and, although I still have it, it's definitely on my donate list... (but I'll probably remove the buttons first.)

[marciae]

Ann - I remember that coat - I always loved it!  I "think" the pattern appeared here in the states in Sew News - I have the article somewhere in my worldly possesions!  Your coat has more shaping then the bog coats that I've made.

[Carolyn]

Ann, that coat is gorgeous!  Someone will be very lucky to pick it up.

[sdBev]

Ann

The Balenciaga version is the one I was first introduced to.  He made such minor changes yet the garment is infinitely more attractive than the original bog coat.  Balenciaga  has to be one of my favorite designers.  He was so imaginative.

I'm making a specific link to Anns photos but of the Balenciaga article so if you viewed her photos you've already seen this, I just think it deserves it's own link.



Thanks admin for the new topic. 

[Sergerqueen]

sdBev-
Do you have the specific issue of Sewing or Serger Update that the directions for the Balienciega bog coat is in?  I still have all my issues and treasure them!  I  would like to look the coat up.  Thanks!

[sdBev]

sdBev-
Do you have the specific issue of Sewing or Serger Update that the directions for the Balienciega bog coat is in?  I still have all my issues and treasure them!  I  would like to look the coat up.  Thanks!

Sorry to disappoint, but no I don't know the specific issue.

[marciae]

sdBev-
Do you have the specific issue of Sewing or Serger Update that the directions for the Balienciega bog coat is in?  I still have all my issues and treasure them!  I  would like to look the coat up.  Thanks!

I got my copy from Sew News - but I don't remember how I knew exactly what I wanted!!   Why don't you email Sew News - they used to be good about answering promptly - there is a small charge.

[Betty F]

Copied this from a 2006 Pattern Review of the Balenciaga coat by Ann Rowley. Is this the info being sought?

"Request copy: Sewing Update Oct/Nov 1994
Article: "One Coat, One Seam"
Author: Chris Hansen
Send $4 check or money order made out to
Primedia, Inc.
Mail the request and the money to
Devin Gentry
Primedia, Inc.
741 Corporate Circle
Ste. A
Golden, CO 80401 "

[fzxdoc]

I made that Balenciaga pattern up in 1998 in a wool voile, and then made it again in tweed in 2006.  A cyber friend had sent me that copy of Serger Update 12 years back and I never forgot her kindness.

Here's my tweed version, made in 2006:



And a link to my Flicker set for more photos and pattern information.

In my version, I narrowed the pattern considerably (about 4 inches total) for a closer fit.

The wool voile version is also still a favorite.

Kathryn

[marciae]

Copied this from a 2006 Pattern Review of the Balenciaga coat by Ann Rowley. Is this the info being sought?

"Request copy: Sewing Update Oct/Nov 1994
Article: "One Coat, One Seam"
Author: Chris Hansen
Send $4 check or money order made out to
Primedia, Inc.
Mail the request and the money to
Devin Gentry
Primedia, Inc.
741 Corporate Circle
Ste. A
Golden, CO 80401 "

Yes, oje can order the article with that info

[shams]

What a great jacket, Kathryn!  Hmmm...  Think I need these instructions. 

[Sergerqueen]

Thank you for the dates of the Sewing Update. I easily found my issue.  Even though some of the styles are dated, the Sewing Updates and Serger Updates were my favorites as they were chock full of information and creative projects.  I was sorry to see them stop publishing.  I enjoy looking through back issues every once in a while.

[AnnRowley]

Copied this from a 2006 Pattern Review of the Balenciaga coat by Ann Rowley. Is this the info being sought?

Thanks for this - you're so much more efficient than I am!  Filing, and finding, information is just not my thing.

I should have added my thanks to Kathryn and Liana who introduced me to this pattern...

[LauraS.]

I've not heard of a bog coat either.  Sounds very interesting and I do like both Ann's and Kathryn's versions of the same coat.  I'm gong to need those instructions too.

[sdBev]

Fabulous Katherine.  I love the way you folded out  the excess.

The last one was made from rayon, texture was in the weave.  Hard to describe the fabric.  I made it in a navy blue and it was a staple, frequently reached for.  In the winter it was a jacket underneath my coat, the rest of the year it was the jacket.  Finally shredded underneath the arms.  But it was just such a classy looking garment that I've never forgotten it.

My plan is for the next bog coat is a tear drop neckline but with the same front treatment Katherin used.  I'm using a border print, fake fur.  I'm thinking welt pockets, even if I have to shave a little fur. I've already got buttons which are absolutely perfect with the border pattern.  My bindings, cuffs, welts will be from a microfiber suede, not sure about the lining.  I'm also thinking I'd like to make this very warm by adding an underlining.  Probably the cold outside affecting me.   I'm hoping to have enough fabric to make a matching hat, but I'd prefer a contrasting scarf.  I wonder if the microfiber suede would make a nice scarf?


Not sure if I'll get to it today or tomorrow.  But soon.

[fzxdoc]

Thanks, Shams and Bev, for the compliments. It's great to have made two coats from that pattern and to still be wearing them!  Ann, you're welcome--I loved what you did with that pattern. It's so flattering on so many people!

I have even made it up in flannel for pajama tops for friends (the pj bottoms were made from a simple one seam pant pattern), and they have loved their stylish nightwear, especially when I told them it was a Balenciaga design!

Kathryn

[Karendee]

Thanks so much Kathryn, Ann, and Marciae for this info. I plan to send off for this one. I love "almost" patternless sewing.

Karen

[sewsanna]

Recently in another Taunton pub., maybe Sew Stylish, there was an article about bog coats. They showed a diagram, but I thought the instruction was pretty thin. They could have used maybe 1 less big picture of models wearing coats, and given a few more instructions or pictures of actual construction. But the article was taken from an older Threads article.

[vtmartha]

I just emailed Sew News to see if the reprint was still available and they promptly replied:

To order a reprint it costs $4.00 (including shipping & handling)
and you can pay by either check or credit card. You can either
email me your mailing address (if paying by check) and I will send
out a copy with an invoice. If you wish to pay by credit card,
please call me at, 303-215-5620.

Sincerely,
Kim Lee
Editorial Assistant

[fzxdoc]

Yay! I'm glad to hear that the pattern is still available.

Kathryn

[Betty F]

At a quick glance, these directions look pretty good.
http://www.marcusbrothers.com/makeit/projects/bog_coat/index.html

Edited to correct link

[marciae]

At a quick glance, these directions look pretty good.

http://www.marcusbrothers.com/makeit/projects/bog_coat/index.html

They are for the 'traditional' Bog coat.  The Balenciaga Bog - is made a bit different.  The instruction and 'pattern' are on graph paper - you'll need to 'draw' the pattern according to the scale. 

[sdBev]

At a quick glance, these directions look pretty good.

http://www.marcusbrothers.com/makeit/projects/bog_coat/index.html

They are for the 'traditional' Bog coat.  The Balenciaga Bog - is made a bit different.  The instruction and 'pattern' are on graph paper - you'll need to 'draw' the pattern according to the scale.  

Balenciaga did some wonderful things with this simple design, but I have no problems recommending using the simpler draft Betty F referenced .  In fact, I think using the simpler draft helped me understand the reasons for Balenciaga's adaptations.  

[vtmartha]

The weird thing for me is that I cannot access Betty's link.  It directs me to the home page and from there I chose a 'make it' link but found nothing mentioned about bog coats.  I've tried several times.  I have another bog coat pattern in my files which is probably very traditional but the shoulder piece which Kathryn and Ann both reference is missing.

[marciae]

The weird thing for me is that I cannot access Betty's link.  It directs me to the home page and from there I chose a 'make it' link but found nothing mentioned about bog coats.  I've tried several times.  I have another bog coat pattern in my files which is probably very traditional but the shoulder piece which Kathryn and Ann both reference is missing.

I couldn't access her links either - but I'd seen the page and knew what she was talking about - - maybe in her first post earlier??  My like to Shirley Adams show a simple bog coat also.

[LauraS.]

I've got a length of double faced sweater knit.  (First freebie from FM couple of years ago.  Navy blue and orange. Anyone else get any of this?)  No reason a bog coat couldn't be made up in a stable knit?  Been awhile since I've handled this fabric, but I recall it as being somewhat thick.  Seems like the type of garment that would work with this fabric.  Any thoughts?