Your Tried and True (TNT) patterns and why

[ejvc]

Hi,

I guess now that my PhD is done I have time to post all the questions that keep me up at night... Lisanne posted on her blog about TNT patterns, and what caught my eye was Shannon Gifford's estimation that you need only five patterns (a sad thing for all us Burda magazine subscribers etc, but something that Carolyn, for example, seems to have honed).  Her list is (I paraphrase from memory):

1. Trousers
2. Knit tee
3. Blouse
4. Skirt
5. Jacket

Now I have a TNT for only one of these types of garment - the trousers - V7881, which I have made two or three times and which fit me wonderfully.  I also have a second nearly TNT pattern for jeans, in a heavily modified version of an Ottobre pattern, which I have made twice, and which I wear all the time.

Knit tee I am hoping soon to have from Nancy Ericson's FSG 1960 pattern.

The others?  Blouses I don't make much, but I've learned I don't need much alteration to fit a commercial pattern, mostly in the shoulders; skirts I never wear, but maybe because they don't fit?  I made a great fitting Burda pencil skirt but I doubt I will wear it much.  Jacket I am hoping to use the FSG 1945 pattern, starting my first one soon.

What patterns are on your list?

[Gigi Louis]

Wow, I love collecting patterns far too much to limit myself to five!    I would say I have about two dozen TNT patterns for tops, about six TNT dress patterns and one TNT pants pattern (the HP Marrakesh, which I love and don't think you can own too many of!).  I really like trying new patterns, even with all of the fitting and alterations that must be done at the outset. 

[ejvc]

It seems to take me two or three times making a pattern for me to consider it TNT -- is it the same for you, Gigi, or how do you define it?

[Ann]

I don't have any TNT patterns as I am loosing weight. But I am starting to collect patterns to make into TNT patterns. I will start my TNT journey after Easter (if I get the last of the western shirts done by then). So then I will let  you know. One thing I am trying to do is limit the number of patterns I will have. I think too many will take too long to TNT. I am looking at:

2 pants patterns
1 jeans pattern
2 jacket patterns (including denim jacket)
2 vest patterns (maybe only one)
2 t-shirt patterns
2 or 3 blouse patterns

That is more than Shannon's 5 but it is less than what I use to have.

Ann

[mom2five]

Finding TNT's has been my ongoing project.  I haven't found my tops/blouses yet but I do have :

2 skirts- Louise Cutting's Relax a Little and a basic pencil skirt
2 jackets- Louise Cutting's By Popular Demand and Silhouettes Carol's Jacket
2 pants-  Silhouettes Yoga Pants and self drafted leggins
1 dress- Simplicity 3678 (modified)

Those darn shirts keep eluding me but I'm determined to find some that work!

[QuiltersFan]

I have set a goal for myself this year to focus on fewer patterns that fit well and then work to vary them with pattern modifications and a range of fabric types.

For a T-shirt I have Vogue 8151 which I have made several times.  I need to adjust a bit more for it to be a TNT.  Then I need to work on dart rotation and neckline modifications to see if I can become more comfortable in that area and get maximum use of this pattern.

ETA:  LaFred's Thia Tee is a great T-shirt that I have made several times.  Putting one on this morning reminded me I need to make more.

For a simple skirt I really like LH Tango skirt and swing skirt.  Both fit pretty well but I am working to define my best skirt lengths.  Each time I think I have it and then I change my mind (inch shorter/inch longer).  Perhaps more of a problem of the sewer than anything else.  I probably should try to include a skirt with a zipper but these look good and are comfortable so for now this is OK.

For a blouse/blouse jacket I am working on Burda 8503.  It is very flattering on me but I have 2 in the UFO stage and need to finish them up before considering this a TNT. I am less sure how I would modify this pattern than some of the others.

For pants I am working on the SW Mimosa pant.  I have a version that is a UFO at the moment but the fit is pretty good.  I would also like to have a one-seam pant TNT.  Considering the SW Plaza pant and one of Sandra Betzina's.

I just cut out Vogue 1110 which is a good basic jacket and eventually I'll work my way up to a jacket with a collar.

I have also made LH Sweater Set a couple of times (just the cardigan which needs a little adjustment) and think I should work on the tank.

Now that I have made the list I see I am a good way toward my goal.  I just need to finish my UFOs and then make them again.

[Gigi Louis]

It seems to take me two or three times making a pattern for me to consider it TNT -- is it the same for you, Gigi, or how do you define it?

Yes, twice seems to be the magic number for me too! 

[Sewshopper]

I have the LH Bianca Sweater down to where I have simply been adding neckline variations from other sources.  For a long time, I seemed to be searching for the "perfect Tee" and finally decided to work on just one pattern.  Now I plan to just lay it on top of some of the other pattens in my stash and see about sizing.  That always seems to be my biggest challenge.

TNT pant pattern is the LH Cruise.  Jacket is also the LH Garbo, though I am about to try the LH Biarritz.

I am on my third try with TSW Mixit Shirt.  I have had an issue with the hang of the sleeve but I think it has been due to needing to go down a size in that area.

Sometimes, I think that it is too easy to just keep tweaking a pattern and not simply deciding that it does fit!  For me, separates work best for my lifestyle as they give more variety.
Karleene

[Sergerqueen]

I love hearing about others TNT patterns so I'm glad you started this thread, ejvc.  It's timely because I just added Vogue 7881 to my TNT list of pants.  I have made two pairs and have two more cut out and two waiting in the wings.  For those of you that haven't tried this pattern, it is the trouser pant by Claire Schaeffer.  I make the non-couture version and added a lining to two pairs.  The third pair was moleskin and the back side was nice enough that I didn't feel I needed one.  I had to slim down the legs some to get my most flattering look!

As far as pants go, I also am a fan of Louise Cuttings One Seam Pants.  I have made these at least a dozen times from pants to shorts to capris to lounge pants.  They are super quick and easy.

My favorite t-shirt has to be Pamela's Patterns The Perfect T-Shirt.  This is so flattering and is based on the well-fitting t-shirts from Talbots.  Also, her twin set and camisole patterns are terrific!


For dresses, I like the Best of 2007 knit dress, Simplicity 3775.  Easy to make and easy to wear!  I'm a little all over the map when it comes to skirt, but do like the bias skirt pattern that Sandra Betzina included in one of her Today's Fit patterns.

I am still in search of the Perfect Jacket pattern for me.  Now that I am working with a sewing friend on fitting, I am seeing what mistakes I have made on jackets in the past and how I can improve for the future.  So hopefully, I will have a TNT jacket pattern in the future.

[DebbieY]

I haven't done enough sewing this time round to have any TNT's but I do have one really well fitting pyjama pants pattern (simplicity 9505) that will be made up multiple times so I guess that counts? These are so comfortable I was considering changing the pattern slightly and making them up in linen for around the house pants. I am yet to find TNT's for tops, blouses etc but I am (slowly) working on it.

[lessalt]

Karleene,
I just returned from a sewing retreat where sewing expert Lynda Maynard came for one day to help us in fitting muslins. I had brought a muslin of the TSW Mixit top. I had added a bust dart for a little more fitted look but then thought the back was too big. Lynda made a couple of corrections on the front but then had me turn sideways because she was concerned about the drag lines on the sleeve. When she had me rip out the top of the sleeve cap the drag lines disappeared. She had me add 3/4" to the sleeve cap which corrected the fit. You might try that.

My TNT is Vogue 8151, Sandra Betzina's t with bust darts and jewel neck. I have made at least 10. My new TNT tshirt is the TSW trio top. The neck is a tiny bit lower than the jewel neck of V8151 which I like. I also like Loes Hinse Crossover top.

[Sewshopper]

Thanks, Leslie, I made up the first Mixit in a soft rayon batik in a Med.  It was roomier than I like, so on the next one, I went to a small sleeve.  It turned out to be too tight in the back at the armseye.  I put in a gusset to make it wearable.  I had not decided what to do next.  The rest of the blouse fits nicely, but like you I had drag lines.  Mine are up and down, were yours?  I put it up for a bit and plan to work some more because I really like the style.

Karleene

[bessiecrocker]

My favorite t-shirt has to be Pamela's Patterns The Perfect T-Shirt.  This is so flattering and is based on the well-fitting t-shirts from Talbots.  Also, her twin set and camisole patterns are terrific!

Which Pamerla version do you recommend--the DVD or the paper pattern? Talbots Tees fit me really well, so a sewing pattern based on them would be great. I'll probably order the sleeve and collar variations, too.

I really like the idea of this thread. When I sew for others I'm always happy to experiment. When I sew for myself, I just want to run up something quick that I know will fit, look good on me and go with the rest of my wardrobe. I'm getting so I just want a reliable "uniform" that can be varied as required.

I've got the One-Seam Pants down to a TNT. Never thought I'd be a fan of elastic waist pants but it's great to know you can knock back a pair of great looking slacks in a few hours.. It's faster than going out to shop.

I think I'll be putting more energy into personal TNTs.

[blue mooney]

When she had me rip out the top of the sleeve cap the drag lines disappeared. She had me add 3/4" to the sleeve cap which corrected the fit.

This is really good information. I've been puzzled by draglines on some sleeves and not known how to approach them. Thanks, Leslie!

Like another poster above, I'm loosing weight and so will have to develop new TNTs or refit the old. My plan....
-classic trouser
-closer-fitting pant
-blouse (probably just tweak the HP Princess, I've been really happy with it)
-shirt
-jacket (re-fit Nancy Ericson's 1945 so I can use all its variations)

I'll probably also tweak the Ottobre basic t-shirt, although I don't sew Ts very much. Having those patterns worked out will cover most of my wardrobe needs.

I spent 2009 working on basics....none of which fit anymore! Not complaining, but I will have to do it all over again. This time I'll be even better at it.

[ejvc]

Gorgeous stuff on your Flickr stream Blue Mooney!  I hope you are enjoying your new slim shape but with those clothes I wouldn't worry too much if you slide   Maybe some can be altered?

[Sergerqueen]

Bessie Crocker-

I use Pamela's paper patterns.  I didn't know she had a DVD.  The Perfect Tee Shirt pattern is awesome!  I like the scoop and v-neck versions the best.  I do have the neckline variations and have used the boat and funnel necklines.  The tank top in the twin set pattern seems to fit even better than the tee-shirt pattern that I have perfected and I may morph it into a tee-shirt next time.  I'm not a spaghetti strap camisole type of girl so I love the camisole pattern and usually make one when I have some leftover knit fabric.  My collection of camis has grown quite a bit.

I do have her Magic Pencil Skirt Pattern, but have yet to make it.

[vtmartha]

If I actually have a TNT pattern, it would have to be Christine Jonson's Baseware Two tee.  It fits me well and I've made several.  But, last night, I made another pattern which I will definitely do again much to my surprise.  It's Simplicity 2603, the cardigan with the drapes (cosy) which has been so popular.  I absolutely love how it looks on me.   I have some yellow silk jersey which is just waiting to be transformed and a few others after that.  I'm not sure how anything that eccentric can be a TNT but I'll definitely be making more.

[fzxdoc]

Now that's going to look amazing in yellow silk jersey, Martha!


photo credits at www.simplicity.com

My TNT pattern is the Christine Jonson Swing coat pattern, which I have modified for set in sleeves. I've made it 4 times and am working on the 5th. I still wear all 4 of the other swing jackets, too!  That's a lot of swing in one wardrobe.  


photo credits at www.christinejonson.com

Kathryn

[Janis]

My one and only TNT pattern is TSW Valencia pants that I put a zipper in.  I've tried pants with elastic, without elastic, with waistband, without waistband, etc., etc.  I finally decided I loved the shape of the Valencia on me, but I couldn't get it small enough without putting in a zipper.  I'm actually quite proud of myself, as this is really the first time I've ever "changed" a pattern.

Up next for TNT's:

Tee (I'm trying Pamela's and the new Marcy Tilton)
Jacket
Cardigan
Tank
Slim Pants (I'm trying the SoHo pants)

[lessalt]

Karleene,
The drag lines were vertical and pointing to the cap. I was so interested in the fit of the body I didn't even look at the sleeves. I am looking forward to making this up. I think it has the potential to be a TNT.

[blue mooney]

Thanks for the compliment, Elizabeth! I bet I'm not the only one that would rather do almost anything than alterations.
 Janis mentioned a cardigan - that's another piece that I want in my TNT arsenal. Nancy Ericson's pattern again - I've made her cardi a couple of times, and it hangs nicely on me. I think all I'll have to do is cut a smaller size.

[Threads]

I need three times to make a pattern TNT - often the second time looks worse than the first because I start to take liberties, then the third time I have a feel for what can be changed and what can't.  There were a few Burda patterns traced from the magazine that got used quite a bit, but in recent times the only patterns that qualify are both Jalie (although the Marseilles shirt from Textile Studio is a good one, too).  Two of the jeans patterns, which are pretty popular with a lot of people.

And this shirt


which you would never guess from the pattern picture, but in fact it is great.  Fits well, has useful pockets, can be adapted with different stretchiness/waterproof/wicking in the body, side yoke and sleeves. Never made it withthe turtleneck, come to think of it, but I have made it with a full zipper down the front, with collars and hoods, half-zips, and sized up or down for different family members.

[Janis]

Robyn, I'm going to try this one from Pamela's Patterns:

[Sewshopper]

Thanks, Leslie, I was thinking that might be the problem.  My drag lines are not directly below the cap of the sleeve so I was not sure how to deal with them.  I have forward shoulders and figured that was probably the cause.  I love the pattern and have fabric for 3 more but want to be sure that the sleeves hang nicely before making another one up.  I'll try reshaping the cap.

Karleene

[DebraMartin]

Janice,
I love that twin set!  I can see lots of potential there. 
As for TNT patterns, I really only have two.  One is a pant pattern that I wound up with as a result of a pant fitting workshop with Peggy Sagers, and the other is a skirt pattern which I made from the pant pattern.  I had a fitting with Emma Seabrook for a T shirt pattern and it is probably perfect but I have never stitched it up.  Haven't gotten around to it...  but soon...

I am currently working on a sheath dress (Burda February #127) which may become a TNT if my alterations are good.

I do agree the the basic 5 TNT are essential, but but but... I want more...  I love some of the style lines on vintage patterns and some MARFY patterns.  It would be challenging to say the least to try to alter one of the basic 5 to get there.  I simply *need* more

[Sergerqueen]

Janis- You might want to make the long version.  Silly me!  I made the short version and even went to the trouble of putting embroidery on it (which showed horribly on the back side) and didn't even think how inappropriate it looked on someone who just reached the 1/2 century mark!  Not my best look by any means--into the wadder pile!  I'm sure the long version would look lovely, but I'm still smarting from my previous mistake!

The tank top from this twin set is divine!  No gaps at the armholes-- fits beautifully!

[blue mooney]

Janis -- soooo pretty!

[Carolyn]

My TNT t-shirt is Textile Studios Santa Monica T.  It's very flattering and can be sewn so quickly.  I think I could almost make it with my eyes closed.

I'm about to finish my first Nancy Erikson 1945 jacket and love it.  I can't wait to try different versions.

I have a couple of TNT pants - Soho pant from TS, Oxford Pants from Loes Hinse, Pants from the Mimosa pattern from TSW, and Nancy Erikson pants.  Come to think of it, I've made a lot of pants!!!!

[Carole]

I'm also a V8151 fan and have made it up countless times.  My TNT pants pattern is so old I don't even know the pattern number, but it was originally from KwikSew.  I just tried Burda 3197 for a tee without a bust dart, and it fits well enough that I'll be using that a lot as I like the neckline, and I also have Kwik Sew 3617 on deck for a trial.  I make a lot of knit tops and like to change up the neckline but keep the body the same.  For a quick jacket, I like Louise Cutting's Anything But Ordinary, and for a more fitted look I have a Vogue with princess seams that is also so old I don't have the pattern number.  I trace off my favorite TNTs and put them in envelopes just marked "TNT Jacket" or whatever so that's why I don't remember the numbers.

[cmarie12]

Okay since Elizabeth mentioned me... ...here's the reason why I have 10 good TNT patterns...I'm lazy!  Yeap, I want to sew not re-fit a pattern over and over again.  So I worked with several patterns until I got them to fit and then I just kinda went from there.  Does this stop me from buying new patterns...nope!  Package just arrived from Vogue patterns today with several new patterns in them!  Does this stop me from buying vintage patterns...nope, there should be a couple of new ones in the mail in the next couple of days.  But if I just want to make a straight skirt, I can pull fabric, lining and notions and make one!  If I just want a new pair of pants...well you get the drift. 

My TNT patterns never bore me...they actually are quite liberating and allow me a creative freedom that makes sewing exhilarating for me.

[Lisa Laree]

My TNT pants pattern is Loes Hinse's Oxford Pant...I think I have half a dozen or so pairs of them, although I'm still trying to find a more fitted pattern for style options.
I've several TNT knit shirt patterns... depends on the fabric and what exactly I need...Loes Hinse's Cowl Top, Christine Jonson's Basewear Two, and Jalie 2005.    I also use  Jalie's 965 tank top a LOT...it's a great bottom layer.

Still looking for a good woven shirt pattern.  Got a couple that are close...just not there yet.  Same with a good basic lined jacket.

It's nice to have goals, right?  

[Terri K]

I'm with Carolyn !  It is liberating, because of how they got to be TNT patterns:  they are flattering styles that look different based on the fabrics and details that you can add.    I have a bunch of them that I've made several times.   I keep the TNT master patterns that are traced, marked and altered on pattern ease, rolled up and organized in tubes so I can pull them out, lay them on the fabric and cut!  

[ejvc]

Carolyn and Terri (and others who have sewn their TNTs multiple times) -- are there any general rules of thumb you observe when cutting your TNTs in different fabrics, ie stretch vs non-stretch, twill vs gauze, etc?

Everyone - so interesting to see than many people do have TNTs.  I am looking at the patterns as well so very happy for you to post pattern numbers!  Thank you.

[BetsyV]

The only TNTs I have are a couple of Jalie top patterns, 2805 and the older possibly OOP 965. I've made 6 mock turtlenecks from 2805 this fall/winter and I've made the tank top from 965 7 or 8 times and have 6 more lined up from turtleneck fabric when the spring arrives and I start thinking about cooler tops. In May probably, I'll whip those together in a day or two. And I plan on replacing all my men's A-shirts (tank style undershirts) with the Jalie tank made out of some white cotton/poly pointelle knit I got from a Craig's Listing. I like to wear them as underlayers in winter, but I have a pile of the old ones and am in no hurry for those. And I've made the camisole from 965 several times too, usually with the shelf bra I added. I squeezed a couple of those out of turtleneck fabric too but will have to cut the shelf bras out of something else as there wasn't quite enough for those pieces.

I think I did make the shortsleeved T from 965 a couple of times, and have two sizes traced off: one for the % stretch Jalie suggests and one for fabric with much less stretch. Haven't had to do that with the others as I've used fabric with the stretch required.

I would really love to have TNT patterns for jeans, trousers, sheath dress, and straight skirt. I like style variety too much in suit jackets and am not creative enough to add my own crazy ideas. I think I have the sheath dress pattern worked out but will have to trim the side seams down from my first one and make some more for it (McCall's 2114, certainly OOP) to qualify as a TNT.

[Terri K]

I sew independent patterns that don't have numbers but names.    There are several collections of the various patterns on my Flickr site with many photos and details    I recommend following the pattern designer's guidelines for fabrics to achieve the best results.     I study high end ready to wear styles that appeal to me in their sophistication, that fit my lifestyle, my body, and are age appropriate.   I don't use stiff fabrics, don't underline and use knit fabrics for patterns that recommend knits.   Recommend looking at what fabrics Eileen Fisher uses.  Go see what her collections feel like and look like on.   They're everywhere.   She even has line drawings on her website, which I compare to pattern line drawings.     

I make it a point to look at the actual garments that the pattern designers sew up - trunk shows, Loes Hinse's boutique and newsletters.   My time is valuable so I sew the best quality fabrics I can find and treat them appropriately.     I don't wash every fabric, because I don't wash every garment.   Would you wash an Armani jacket?   No - I rest my case.     I like interesting fabrics - some with contents that are a mystery.   In that regard,  I will wash and play with a swatch to see how it behaves.   I've washed flat, shiny ugly unwashable fabrics resulting in soft, textured, spongy fabrics that have more of an appeal for what I like to wear.    The fabric dictates the style, not the other way around.   I have used knits for patterns that don't say knits, but it's an educated decision after I've seen the same thing done in RTW so I know it works.