Sharing, Inspiration and Project Photos XIX

[stashpanache]

Stash  - Wow a hair cut at 7 months!  His hair must be growing like crazy.   Is that your GS in your avatar?

No, that is grandson's grandmother with his Aunt MJ in her lap.  hehehehe  Just a little temporary silliness until I get a new permanent avatar.

Well, grandson apparently has been mistaken for a girl a couple times lately and his Mom thought he needed a big boy cut.

[Liana]

Betsy,  Your dress turned out beautifully, and the zipper looks good to me, too.    That was certainly a challenging pattern, but you got a beautiful result.  I like your knit tops, too.

[KathrynT]

I saw a funny thing in the new patterns from Butterick.  There are two patterns side by side with the same two little girls.  They are very happy wearing the outfits in the first pattern, but they don't seem so keen on the layered dresses in the second photo.  It's worth a look just for the laugh.

[ejvc]

I finished this top recently.  As I rarely finish anything it seemed an excuse to post here!  I've also finished a skirt that I have no pictures of as yet, but hope to in a few days.  This is Ottobre's "Ruffles and Flounces" Top from their 5/2009 Women's edition magazine.  I cut a 42 and did a square shoulder adjustment.  The fabric is a cream wool jersey.  I don't love everything about this top but I think it's pretty, warm, and I like the neckline a lot:

[vtmartha]

That looks great, Elizabeth!  I'm finding more and more that I like in Ottobre and am beginning to wonder why I buy anything else.

[Liana]

Very cute, Elizabeth!

 I've never had an Ottobre magazine, or even seen one in person.  I did a program on Alternative Pattern Companies for my local sewing guild last month, and I was surprised how many of the ladies had never tried any patterns beyond the Big4, Burda, KwikSew, etc.  Most of them don't seem to go online to see what's available either, so I had a 'link document' ready that I emailed to all of them after the program.  I took along one of every pattern line I happened to have, and it was interesting to see what people really went for.  I think I had probably 30 patterns there, and the ones that people wanted to borrow were Mrs Stylebook, and Loes Hinse. 

[ejvc]

Liana, you can buy single issues from their site, if you're interested, and you can easily see the patterns in each issue beforehand.  Ottobre in my opinion make nice casual basics, the sort of thing you can wear every day, with one or two fancier outfits thrown in.  Their construction and drafting are top-notch.  My main beef with them is that the styles aren't exactly drafted to flatter my figure -- my opinion is that they are drafted with someone in mind who has a full bust, some tummy, a relatively flat behind and pretty good legs.  Not I!  But I can alter to my purposes.  Their tees are excellent and they often have embellishment instructions and options.  Oh - my other major beef - their stylists are just strange; the pictures of the clothes often make them look worse than the line drawings, in my opinion - more frumpy than they really are.  But ignore that and they are an excellent resource.  I make just as much from them as from Burda, despite the fact that there are only two women's issues a year.

[AnnRowley]

Very pretty top Elizabeth - fun pose too.    I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the sleeve frills though.  I made something like that once, only to find that the edges trailed into everything, dinner, dish-water, dust...

I've never used their (Ottobre) patterns - I was put off by the frumpy photos.  And far too many alterations. 

I admit to not using Alternative Pattern Companies either - interesting subject Liana.  I think many of them are American, so time and shipping costs are a disincentive - or am I stuck in a rut. 

[vtmartha]

I was put off by their frumpy photos at first but when I saw PR reviews of some not so frumpy people wearing their clothes, I quickly got over it.    Their claim to fame is that they use 'real people' to do their modeling.  This raises them a few notches in my estimation.  Now that you describe a body type for their patterns, Elizabeth, I can see why I enjoy sewing with them.

[ejvc]

It's true, their patterns are much more stylish than the photos indicate.  It's bizarre.  Ann, I don't think that they use a particularly different block than Burda, although there are some differences - for example, I have to raise the waist on Otto trousers 2 inches versus 1 inch for Burda - but it's simply the styles that they choose.  For example, a dress might be short and unfitted at the waist - disaster for my figure; and in general I don't see too much waist shaping. Stuff like that.  But there are always a few patterns in every issue I like, and I often return to them.  I am not sure you would have to make more alterations, in other words, if you fancied a pattern.  I've learned a lot of good new construction techniques from them as well, for example a way of putting on elastic (in a child's sleeve hem) that is completely secure, doesn't show, and can be done on my sewing machine.

[movinon]

That is so cute Elizabeth!  I also have never seen an Ottobre (probably best I don't...  ).  It's nice to use "real people/real models". 
As for frump, I think frump is in the eye of the beholder and for some reason some just seem to miss it... it's interesting that more than one person has commented on that yet Ottobre obviously must have a different vision.  I have used other patterns I may have thought of as dowdy but seeing them in person or different renditions changed my view and I was happy with results. 

[LauraS.]

Loving your top, Elizabeth!  Havel also never used Ottobre.  But I am beginning to sew more of the independent pattern makers.

[DebraMartin]

I have also never sewn or seen an Ottobre pattern.  I am intrigued.  Thanks, Elizabeth , for sharing your photo.  I really like the top and I would never think frumpy seeing it on you.  Don't know what their images in the mag look like.  Maybe you should be a model for them!

[AnnRowley]

If you're interested - I was - you can see the latest Ottobre Women line drawings here and the magazine photos here

I must admit the photos have improved  , but there's absolutely nothing there that says 'Make me'

[LauraTS]

Elizabeth, I like your top, if I didn't say so already in the 6PAC thread. I've been wanting to try that pattern for the interesting yet warm neckline, although I'd probably leave off the flouncy cuffs.

The few Ottobre things I've made have turned out well - I have to lengthen everything, but I have to do that with Big 4 as well, and things do seem to be drafted for a flat butt, which I definitely don't have. But they're great basics, well-drafted and the instructions are good (and available in English!). I remember the basic knit top pattern took PR by storm when it came out in their first or second women's issue, so much so that I think the issue sold out (but you can get the pattern separately from them now, iirc). I had good luck with it too - it was the best knit top I'd made until I discovered Knipmode, which I don't have to lengthen for my height.

They have a particular aesthetic - to me it reads almost childlike, and I think it's maybe partially because they started out with kids clothes, but I've also seen that kind of aesthetic - bright colors, simple silhouettes, no particular attempt at 'sex appeal' - in other designers and fashion from Scandinavia.

Here's a quick pic of me in my new knit cowl-neck top (Vogue 8634) - it's not quite perfect, but it went together quickly and it's cozy. (Man, I look stern in that picture.)

[fzxdoc]

Oh, goody, two new tops to see!

Laura, the color of your knit top is one of my favs, and it looks wonderful on you. Isn't it great to whip out a top and be able to wear it the next day?  Since you say it's not perfect, what do you plan on changing with it, should you make it again?

Of course I had to hop over to Vogue and see what the pattern looked like:

photo credits at www.voguepatterns.com

I love the cut of the bodice, with the underbust seam. I can't quite see that seam on your photo, though. And what is the fiber content of your knit? It looks like the perfect weight for layering in the colder months. (How do you like your iPhone, btw? I wish we got good AT&T service where I live, because I love that phone.)

Elizabeth, that is a cute top, and I love the pose as well! You should have a balloon coming out of your mouth (like the comics) with a big "Ta-daa!" printed in it.    Details, please, on how well you liked the pattern, how that wool jersey knit was to work with, and whether the top is comfortable to wear. Is there anything about it that you would change? It sure looks like a million bucks on you, so you should wear it often!

I too have yet to sidle up to Ottobre patterns, but I think you hit the nail on the head Laura, when you talked about their childlike aesthetic in their drawings. Their photos look more grown up, though. I don't see anything in their collection that screams "please make me" except that #19 jacket which could be interesting to colorblock in more subtle transitions than the one shown.

Debra, every time I scroll down the past page, the shoe you posted catches my eye. That's a great look--I bet you could make it if you set your mind to it. The leather outfit you made is still in my mind's eye, it is so wonderful. So you've definitely got the talent to attempt that shoe design.

Kathryn

[ejvc]

Thank you everyone!  I definitely will wear this all the time.  It's in the wash currently - not the cuffs, but purple marker (thank you dear daughter), fortunate of the ultra-washable kind. This top has been hanging, unfinished, for some months on my door because I couldn't get my twin needle hem to work without tunnelling on the fabric. Gigi had mentioned the stretch blindstitch and I finally got around to finishing it that way!  So anyway the details of the pattern are faintly fuzzy in my mind.

There are two main things I did not like about it, and both in a sense were operator error.  First, the cuffs aren't finished properly -- the instructions are to serge with a rolled hem.  This is typical of Ottobre in that it incorporates more modern methods of working. Sadly, I don't have a serger and I didn't notice that instruction until I got to it.  Therefore the cuff hems are overcast on my machine, which is serviceable but really not as attractive as it could be.  I mulled other possibilities like edging with bias tape but in the end I didn't.    The second problem was also with the cuffs.  Ottobre have you attach a clear elastic to the top edge on the right side as you gather the cuff.  Then when you attach it to the sleeve it should be sandwiched into the seam allowance and hidden by the topstitching.  Idiot here put it on the wrong side of the cuff.  Wool jersey doesn't rip out easily, so I decided to leave it there.  But it's irritating having it on your skin.  The plus side is, you can easily push up the sleeves above your elbows when working and they don't slide down.  I think you could do that if you did it the correct way also. 

The wool jersey is very light and very easy to sew, and presses much better with lots of steam.  I handbasted a lot of the neck but as I recall it was pretty easy and hardly fiddly at all.  I'm not very good at sewing knits so I sort of went out on a limb with this one -- so, some good, some bad.  I only altered the pattern at the shoulders, and I cut 3/8 inch allowances and stitched everything with a seam + zigzag overcast stitch on the machine.  It seemed to work.  But in my judgment this pattern would be ideal to make with a serger.  You want a pretty drapey knit though.

Re the ottobre drawings -- I do think they present things as more boxy than they are when you sew them up.  But you have to read them differently than Burda for sure.

[LauraTS]

Laura, the color of your knit top is one of my favs, and it looks wonderful on you. Isn't it great to whip out a top and be able to wear it the next day?  Since you say it's not perfect, what do you plan on changing with it, should you make it again?

I love the cut of the bodice, with the underbust seam. I can't quite see that seam on your photo, though. And what is the fiber content of your knit? It looks like the perfect weight for layering in the colder months. (How do you like your iPhone, btw? I wish we got good AT&T service where I live, because I love that phone.)

Thanks, Kathryn - I'm wondering whether the color's too close to my skin tone to be flattering but it's not as bad as I first feared. I had it labeled as a cotton/lycra knit but it feels more like rayon to me.  If I could, I'd make a narrow shoulder adjustment, a sloping shoulder adjustment, and widen at the bicep - but I don't know how to do the shoulder adjustments on a raglan cut without undoing the fit at the upper arm. I've looked at all the fitting books and I just can't get my head around it.

I eliminated the underbust seam since this was my first time with the pattern and I didn't want to worry if it would fall in the right place - it's not a fitting seam, just a design detail, so I just overlapped the upper and lower bodice pieces and cut it out that way.

Re the iPhone, I do find AT&T's service to be not as good as Verizon's was with my last phone - it's fine here in an urban area, but visiting my parents or in other less traveled areas, it can get slow. It's worth it to put up with it for all the other stuff the iPhone can do, but I am looking forward to when the exclusive contract with AT&T is over and we can choose our own providers. I'm not a big phone talker, so I use all the internet browsing and multimedia stuff a lot more than actually using it as a phone. (Although I have to admit that I'm such a cheapskate that I would have never spent the big money for the phone and contract if DH, total tech addict, hadn't talked me into getting one for each of us.)

[BetsyV]

Elizabeth I love your top! But I would have the same problem as I think it was Liana, the cuffs would be really problematic for sloppy me!

Laura I really like yours too. It seems you shortened the cowl'ing also? And don't worry about the "stern" look. By the time my delay timer actully snaps the picture, I don't look as happy as I might, either.

[ejvc]

Hi, two more pieces finished!  It's UFO month here    This is cross-posted to the Winter Collection thread, sorry if you read both!

This is a pegged skirt from Burda and a Burda top that has been cut since last January, according to my sewing journal.  I really should not have waited so long, they are both super, super pieces.  The skirt is made from a checked wool that I salvaged for £1 at a local junk sale, it had been edged with grey bias tape and used as a couch throw.  It's lined with navy silk twill.  The blouse is a navy silk habotai, a bit see-through so I doubled the bib portion.

These two pieces fit me really beautifully, somewhat less well on Maude, as although she is a duct-tape dummy she has sunk somewhat in the intervening years and her middle has grown thicker.  I absolutely love the way the pegged front of this skirt looks on me (it's from Burda 8/09). 

A note on fitting -- the blouse is a straight size 40 from the sheet with no alterations.  The skirt is a size 44 with a waist reduction and maybe 1 3/4 inches added to the side seams!  To fit it I compared it with my Butterick fitting sloper, I doubt I would have figured it out another way.  The front is pegged so I redrew following the sloper to the hip line and then came in as per the original pegging.  And I basted a lot, also to match the checks.

Next up on my UFO queue is a pair of blue-grey trousers from the Claire Shaeffer pattern, then a checked jacket to match this skirt.  Everyone needs a checked suit, right?

Front view:
 

Back view:


With a non-matching belt:

[BetsyV]

VERY sharp outfit, Elizabeth!

[LauraS.]

VERY sharp outfit, Elizabeth!

Yes, very sharp!  Well done.

[Ann]

Very sharp outfit Elizabeth. I love the skirt.

Ann

[Susan in Miami]

These two pieces fit me really beautifully, somewhat less well on Maude, as although she is a duct-tape dummy she has sunk somewhat in the intervening years and her middle has grown thicker.  I absolutely love the way the pegged front of this skirt looks on me (it's from Burda 8/09). 

Your sewing is beautiful! You did such a wonderful job on that skirt that I am tempted to try that pattern and I don't wear skirts that often anymore.

Susan

[fzxdoc]

Elizabeth, I'm so happy that you are working through your UFO pile. Your industriousness is a boon to my retinas! 

It's great that you reclaimed that wool check throw into a really shapely and beautiful skirt.  And your attention to fit, through your testing of slopers and patternmaking software is really paying off. Using that sloper to help shape the skirt was a great idea, as was basting, until you got the fit and pattern match just right.

It's wonderful that a size 40 Burda WOF shirt fits right out of the box.  What a bonus! I am not a puffy sleeve person, but I like the way those sleeves provide balance for the ensemble. The perfect hourglass.

This is a great outfit, and can take you into a professional setting as well as out to dinner with your DH. You'll turn heads wherever you go!

Thanks for answering my questions about your wool jersey top, Elizabeth. I always enjoy reading the sewing details and the pluses and minuses of a pattern's design or sewing instructions. You really picked a winner with that Ottobre pattern.  It's actually nice that you can push the sleeves up and they will stay--better to keep the flounce out of the gravy when reaching across the table.  

Laura, thanks for the additional info on your top, and for the iPhone info as well. I have an iTouch and am deeply in love with it, but would love to have an iPhone. I'll wait until that AT&T contract is up, though.

I didn't realize that the underbust seam provides no shaping. How odd is that, since it's right where a bit of easing on a knit might be appreciated. Good to know. Thanks!

Kathryn

[movinon]

Pretty colors Elizabeth! I love the effect of mixing something very delicate or feminine with a more "stern" fabric. I found a multi color houndstooth in the trunk very similar, I'm inspired now... but holding off on that kind of thing until I have a work situation more firm.

Thanks for testing that top for me Laura!  I picked up that pattern also, I am usually reluctant about raglan sleeves but it's not such a big feature that I think it will create the football player look it often does on me.  I also have never "gotten" quite how to do shoulder adjustments on raglans, for me the back has to be broader and I've not worked out how to add breadth to the widest part of my back (think where the double notch might fall on a set in sleeve down to center seam) and still have it match/meet correctly at the underarm.  Suggestions welcome.  Maybe I just need to sketch it out and play.  The neckline's not as low as I'd imagine, did you alter anything there? 
UFOs.... found one I should finish when looking for fabric for a quilt I've almost finished top of... I like that jacket, found the fabric for binding too should finish it.  I was reminded of another UFO that would be cozy for this rainy weekend and I fear I may have donated it...
Oh well, current or UFO garments on hold while I finish this quilt. No offense to others, it's an art, but I don't like quilting. The straight strip sewing was pretty relaxing, but no matter how careful it seems something's off or stretches even with strips on grain.  Oh well, this too shall pass, hopefully quickly.

[LauraTS]

Elizabeth, wow - super-chic. I too like the contrast of the houndstooth with the ruffles. Beautiful colors. And the matching of the plaid looks impeccable.

Laura I really like yours too. It seems you shortened the cowl'ing also? And don't worry about the "stern" look. By the time my delay timer actully snaps the picture, I don't look as happy as I might, either.

Thanks, Betsy; I made the cowl as per the pattern, but I think for that picture it was overlapped quite a bit. It looks less voluminous in person than it does in the pattern illustration anyway, but it does look different depending on how you fold or drape it.

I didn't realize that the underbust seam provides no shaping. How odd is that, since it's right where a bit of easing on a knit might be appreciated.

Kathryn, I might be wrong about that, but the pattern pieces sure overlapped with no adjustment needed. It'd be a great way to do an FBA, actually, add some length to the upper piece and gather/ease it to the lower piece. Hmmmm - maybe that's how I should solve my narrow shoulder thing, I should use the next size down and do an FBA to make up the needed extra at the chest. Of course, since Vogue sells that pattern in two different size ranges, that'd mean spending money on another copy of the pattern. 

The neckline's not as low as I'd imagine, did you alter anything there? 

Karen, I didn't. The neckline's pretty low but with all the bulk of the cowl it's not revealing. Until the cowl gets disarranged and you realize your seam allowances are showing when you look down.  I was fiddling with it all day - I'm not sure I'm a cowl person, it just never stays put.

[Liana]

Elizabeth, 

What a great outfit!  I think a matching checked jacket will be a lot of fun, too.  You're certainly on a roll with finishing UFO's, and how nice is that! 

[Claudine]

Wow, Elizabeth, both of those pieces are fantastic, but the skirt really stands out.  You have the perfect figure for a pegged skirt!

[lessalt]

Elizabeth, Outstanding outfit. It is so satisfying to make something wonderful out of a bargain fabric.

[ejvc]

Thank you so much everyone!  It is always nice when things turn out as you imagine, and at least for me that rarely happens!  Kathryn - I realise from this photo and your comment why I *am* a puffy sleeve person - they both balance my figure and conceal my thick upper arms (I did lengthen the cuffs on the sleeve after cutting to go around my arms properly - fortunately with a gathered sleeve you can make this kind of change during construction).  Thank you Karen (movinon) on your comments on the fabrics together, I too like the effect and am pleased to see some of my efforts in wardrobe sewing paying off with usable outfits.

Construction: I attempted to do French seams throughout this blouse, especially because of the sheer fabric, but I failed on the curved seams.  Since then I've realised you can clip French seams as well. Of course.  So there are some french seams,  the centre back seams are finished by folding under and stitching, and some are stitched and overcast.  A mix.  The trim was basted and then applied by hand with a simple running stitch.  Invisible on this fabric and it shouldn't be subject to much strain.  The hidden button placket flummoxed me since I have lost the magazine, and although there's a picture in one review on pattern review, I quickly realised it wouldn't work because you need the placket to be open at the front edge.  This is what I did: first, I applied the short placket to the bottom edge in the ordinary way, folding under its top edge and topstitching 1/8" away from the edge on the outer and upper edges.  Next, I pressed the upper seam allowances of the shirt in, and did the same to the long placket.  I placed the folded edge to the edge of the garment, basted, and topstitched the placket, all the way on the inner edge (catching the short placket) and halfway down and the pivoting across on the outer edge.  This formed a continuous strip for outer placket while the buttons are concealed on the bottom half.  I am pretty sure this is not the approved way but it was a major stumbling block to my finishing the blouse so I just went for it and it looks good.  I added a snap at the trim line since my button placement was not perfect and there was potential gaposis. (I put a button at the bustline and then one an inch below the collar and divided the distance for the button spacing).  Were I to do this again, I would put the lower buttonholes in before topstitching the upper placket - I wasn't able to get my buttonhole foot into the space provided to put the first lower buttonhole exactly where I wanted it.  The hem is finished with my narrow hemmer foot - all but the plackets, which are too thick for the foot.  A tip for using this foot over seams is to trim the seam allowances diagonally.  This works well for me and I didn't have any trouble rolling the hem.  I did not use the foolproof David Page Cotton method for attaching the collar and stand because I simply didn't have the patience on this shirt.  Thus my collar band edges and front edges of the shirt are off ever so slightly... But no one will ever notice because of the brilliant bow tie!

The skirt construction was very simple, apart from the lower vent edge with the slit.  Well, that was very simple too, but I couldn't get my brain around how to finish this skirt until AnnRowley very kindly posted a picture tutorial on the Questions for Ann thread.  On the pattern, I made a mark like Burda does that said "align checks here" so that things would line up.  I cut double layer, but very carefully.  As I said I hand-basted the seams to match the checks, and I am pretty freaking pleased with that centre back seam and the invisible zip there.  I have to attribute at least some of it to luck.  The lining as I said is a heavy navy silk twill (bought a whole roll for £2 at the silk mill sale last year when I went with Claudine).  I cut the lining the full size of the skirt, as instructed by Burda, and attached it at the waist seam before attaching the facing.  But -- wouldn't it have been better to cut the lining and attach it to the lower edge of the facing?  I finished the facing lower edge with bright yellow bias tape and it's tacked to the lining at the seams.  It's faced with the checked fabric and if I were to re-do this skirt I would choose a different facing material as it is really rather bulky.  The skirt hem is overcast by machine and then machine blind-hemmed -- the fabric makes this completely invisible!  I was very pleased to avoid the chore of hand hemming and i think it is more sturdy.  I also blind-hemmed the lining by machine.  The lining is attached by French tacks (the ones about an inch long and covered with blanket stitches). It's also tacked to the zipper tapes and to the edges of the vent.  In short, I think this is an ordinary lined skirt, but I've never made one before, so it was all new to me.  It's part of my winter collection and with this construction it is quite warm!  Oh - one other pattern change, the hem is slightly curved in the front, as I recall, but I changed it to follow the check as I thought the curve would be rather noticeable on this fabric.

I have a question for all you fashionistas since I am wholly accessory-challenged:  what shoes/stockings/jewellery/belt etc should I wear with this?  I am up for getting a pair of new shoes or other accessories.

[ejvc]

Laura, your top is very pretty - I especially like the way the neck falls.  Could you turn the seam allowances toward the body and topstitch to hold them down?  I doubt you'd see it with that neck.  I also always fear lavender, it's nice that you found a shade you can wear.

[fzxdoc]

I have a question for all you fashionistas since I am wholly accessory-challenged:  what shoes/stockings/jewellery/belt etc should I wear with this?  I am up for getting a pair of new shoes or other accessories.

My thoughts:
Soft golden pearl earrings (or regular creamy white pearl earrings), very simple--single pearl type. For winter, opaque navy tights and navy pumps. For Spring, neutral stockings unless you want to go barelegged, and the same navy pumps. It would also look great with knee high boots in the same color as your belt.

Kathryn

[AnnRowley]

I'm a bit late Elizabeth - but that's a great outfit!  Your construction details show how your skills are progressing (glad to have been of help here  ).

It's so nice to see people challenging themselves rather than sticking to same-old, same-old...

I agree with Kathryn - boots, or opaque tights and simple shoes.  Belt, one of the lighter colours in the skirt rather than more navy may be a good idea...not so sure about the tan in your photo though.

[Jacs]

Elizabeth adorable outfit - I love the skirt and the shape it is.