Beginner Cross Stitch questions

[kkwalrus]

Hello,

I am new to stitchery of any sort. Hope you don't mind a couple very, very basic questions as I prepare to start my first cross stitch project.

1. When I removed the aida cloth from the kit it was very creased. I did try ironing it on a low setting & a medium setting but the creases wouldn't budge so through the advice of an article I read, I gently washed the aida cloth by hand, removed the excess water by rolling it in a towel and ironed it. The creases are gone but now the aida cloth appears to be very easy to crease. After serging the edges it is creased again. I am guessing it is because the washing process removed the sizing sooo finally getting to my first question, it would appear my aida cloth is going to get creased while I am working on it. Will I be able to get this creasing out after the project is done or have I made a mistake washing the aida cloth?

2. My finished design according to the kit package is 15" by 9". I purchased a Q-Snap frame that is 11" by 11". Is it okay to move the frame around and work on sections of my project or should I purchase a frame that is large enough to allow me to work on the entire working size of 15" by 9".

Thank you for your time.

kkwalrus

[mdmcgrath]

You haven't made any mistakes.  Usually when I finish a cross stitch, I wash it and press it dry on a towel.  There are times that this won't work, i.e. when you are stitching with overdyed threads that will run.  Are you using DMC embroidery floss?  You can use the Q-snap that you have and just move it to work on different sections of your piece.  If the fabric seems too soft you can use some spray sizing on it.  Enjoy your cross stitch project.

Mary

[kkwalrus]

Hi Mary,

Thank you so much for the reply and advice. Spray starch . . . hmmm . . . wouldn't have thought of that. Will this prevent creasing a bit?

The kit which is put out by Creative Accents only lists the thread as being cotton thread. I would have to check the numbers against a DMC colour list to see if it is in fact DMC. Perhaps, I will check the colour fastness of the floss supplied just in case.

Kelly

[Sam2]

The first thing I always do when I open up a kit is to over-sew the edges of the fabric so that they don't fray (just using white sewing thread).

Then I 'grid' the fabric using white sewing thread so that I can find where I am on the fabric relating to the chart very easily.

I use pale coloured thread to mark the centre lines and that helps further (I always use pink) - never use dark colours because they don't 'disappear' into your work.

I never worry about the folds in the fabric because they just disappear when I am working the fabric.

People have their own preferences as to whether they use a large or small frame, I prefer a small one but I think it depends how you hold it - just in your hands or resting it on yourself.

However, what you must never do is leave the hoop in the fabric when you are not working on your embroidery for some time.  I wouldn't even leave mine in overnight in case I don't go back to it the next day because that will mark the fabric (pull it up into a circle).

The general advice is try to start in the middle of the picture and work outwards to try and keep your work in shape.

Use post it notes to keep your place on your chart.

I hope this helps you.

I find cross stitch very relaxing.

[kkwalrus]

Sam2: Thank you for all the great tips. I'm intrigued by "Then I 'grid' the fabric using white sewing thread so that I can find where I am on the fabric relating to the chart very easily". Sorry to be a total dummy but how do I do that exactly? I have my reservations about working from a chart. I could see myself getting mixed up and miscounting anything that might help me tackle it in manageable bits would be worth it.

If you feel incined and have the time I would be very appreciative.

wallace

[Sam2]

Just sew a length of thread across the fabric to create a line of thread.  In and out - from the top to the back of the fabric in an irregular way - your don't have to count - you just want to create a line of thread in the fabric.

Do this across every tenth line of holes and then you will have a line of white thread where you have a grid line on your chart.

When you work your coloured crosses onto your 'picture' sew over these grid lines so they disappear behind your work.  The more the picture appears the more you will be able to find where you are without these lines.

Put the centre lines in first in a pale colour in the centre of the fabric.

[kkwalrus]

Sam & Mary, you guys rock!!! Thank you so much!

[Sam2]

PS You're not a dummy.  I was taught to sew as a child and I had lots of help.  I know not everyone is that lucky - I am happy to help you.

[Sam2]

PPS I never wash my fabric before I use it because it has a 'dressing' on it to keep it stiff and this will wash out.

I hope my grid system helps you - I invented it because it just seems the logical thing to do.

[BeeBee]

It's been a while, but I used to X-stitch ALOT.  I never washed my fabric - it removes the sizing and starch and you want to keep that stiffness.  It helps your work stay neat. I just threw my fabric on my old Singer and stitched a line at the edge to prevent raveling.  In whatever color thread the machine had in it.  No need to serge.  Yes, start at the center of the work.  Mark your pattern (usually already done) for the center and the center of the fabric.  I was such a slave to the center that I wouldn't even count to the left or up from center to start a color.  I put my first needle in the center.  Always.  If your pattern is small and you have access to a printer, enlarge it.
Don't tie off your threads, leave a tail on the back and catch that tail in the next few stitches to secure it.  Don't pull your thread too tight - work towards even tension.  This takes some practice, so know that you'll get better at it and your work will improve with time.  I like Sam2's idea of the grid - wish I'd done that, it would help a lot on large projects.  I would add to that to mark your pattern in the same grid so you can match up points quickly.  You'll get used to counting, really.  Start with smaller projects and those without a lot of half or quarter stitches until you get the hang of it.  And have fun.  I loved doing, gave up for time reasons and my eyes just don't do that well anymore to keep up with it.  But I did really enjoy it.  I subscribed to X-stitch and Country Crafts back when it was mostly X-stitch and not so much country crafts, very few chickens and barns back then.  I only did a few kits at the beginning to get me started.  Then I was off and stitching.  Enjoy your new hobby. 

[kkwalrus]

Sam: Thank you again.

BeeBee: Thank you for all the information. If you decide to get back into cross stitch Walmart has magnifying clip-ons available. They just clip over your glasses and magnify eveything. They are pretty good.

[BeeBee]

Sam: Thank you again.

BeeBee: Thank you for all the information. If you decide to get back into cross stitch Walmart has magnifying clip-ons available. They just clip over your glasses and magnify eveything. They are pretty good.

What I found I had problems with was switching between the distance and the close vision.  I even tried those magnafiers that hang from your neck and you look through it.  .  This was before I got my new old-lady glasses so it may be better now.  If I can find time to squeeze it back in between sewing, knitting, cooking and that nasty day job I may give another go.  I still have all my old mags with the items I wanted to make.

[BetsyV]

huh. I always wash aida cloth to soften it up. Otherwise, I find it shreds the embroidery floss (I use DMC). I zigzag the edges on the machine, whatever color it has in it. And, Sam2, I grid my pieces, too. I have been working up some detailed designs and it would be impossible without the 10x10 gridlines. I run the stitching along where the (usually) bolder 10th square lines are on the design. So I start from the marked center of the design and run my first gridline where the bolder 10th square line is. It might be right on it, or 3 to the left, or 5 or who knows. But my stitched gridlines match up to the bold lines on the design.

of course, I use a vicious shade of pink for my gridlines and then pull them out with tweezers when I am done.

[BeeBee]

huh. I always wash aida cloth to soften it up. Otherwise, I find it shreds the embroidery floss (I use DMC). I zigzag the edges on the machine, whatever color it has in it.

I never had a problem shredding the thread, also used DMC.  Maybe I used shorter strands?  I like the stifffness that comes with the fabric - it makes nice even stitches that don't stretch out and kept me from pulling too tight.

[kkwalrus]

  Can the grid be sewn by machine on a 16 count aida or do I have to sew by hand?

[Lisa]

Can the grid be sewn by machine on a 16 count aida or do I have to sew by hand?

Sew by hand! You don't want to split the threads in the aida...it will make it harder to remove the grid-line threads after the fact.   

It doesn't take long, and I suspect it's quicker to do it by hand than it would to use a machine.  You can run your thread every 5, 10 or 15 holes (whatever it takes for your fabric).  You just need the thread to be there to mark the grid-line. 

BTW, I always use a contrasting color to mark as well!  And I tend to remove the threads as I go when I start stitching in the area (and therefore will be be able to see the location by the pattern).  Just snip off a bit, and pull it out.  With long stitches, it's easy to do...no need for tweezers!

HTH,

Lisa

[kkwalrus]

Lisa: Thank you! I guess I have read so much I got it into my head that I should sew every couple of holes. 5 - 10 I can manage.

[Sam2]

I forgot to say leave 1-2 inches of thread of your grid lines overhanging the edges of your fabric so that you have something to take hold of when you want to pull the ends out after you are finished - to tidy your work up.

Some of the gridlines will be encased in your picture, that is why I use white thread so that it won't show through to the front - if there are any grid lines left in 'blank areas' you can carefully pick them out with the point of a stitch unpicker or tweezers.

When you put the grid lines in make sure your stitches are quite long so they are easier to get hold of once you are finished and you want to get rid of them.

This preparation is time-consuming and tedious but it really pays dividends in the end.

[kkwalrus]

Sam: Great advice on all counts! Mannn, I have learned a lot this week. I am hoping to get started this weekend.

[Sam2]

Let us all know how you get on and if you do go wrong and have to unpick please don't get disheartened - it happens to us all.

[kkwalrus]

Sam: Will do! Thank you.