Fly Front Zippers (including tutorial links)

[Janis]

It suddenly occurred to me that I don't know something I really should know.  Since I've been working with Burda Style patterns, I've had so much trouble putting in flat front zippers.  I've tried to figure out what I'm doing wrong to no avail.  Well, it dawned on me that I might not be cutting the zipper flap out correctly.  I've been putting a 5/8 inch seam allowance on the flap, but there's actually no seam there .  So my question is:  Do you allow for a seam allowance on the flap?

[AnnRowley]

Janis -  Yes, I do add a seam allowance to the 'flap'.  It's actually the facing for the part of the front opening that lies over the zip and it definitely needs the sa added.

Do you have a specific problem?  I make the BurdaStyle front zip regularly without trouble.

I'm offline now until tomorrow morning but could help then if needed...

[Janis]

Ann to the rescure .  I can check that question off my list (I'm sure there will be many more).

I usually use the Sandra Betzina Tutorial (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-an-easy-flat-fly-front-zipper) to put in my zippers - sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.  After I get the first side of the zip in and turn it over to the other side (the part where she says "just let it lay where it wants to go"), that's where I run into trouble.  Sometimes it just doesn't want to lay flat at all, and I either sew it too far over or not over far enough.  I hope that makes sense   Anyway, what I can't figure out is why it works sometimes, but not others.  I would like to be a little more consistent in my sewing skills  .

Thanks for your help, Ann.

[BeeBee]

Well, just don't do this:


I really don't know where I went wrong, but wrong I went.

[Janis]

Beebee, that's exactly what happens to me.  We need to figure out WHY it happens, so it won't ever, ever happen again

[Kathy in NE Ohio]

I also like the Sandra Betzina zipper installation.  It sits farther back in the fly and will lay much flatter than other methods.  I have very good luck with it and it is quick.  Use some fabric scraps and cut a bunch of fly fronts and try different installation methods and see which you like best.  Take a bit of time, but it is a good exercise.  Good luck.

[tumblina]

I wish I could see these in person - I can't tell from the picture what's not working! I use the Sandra Betzina method but haven't had a problem with it, so I can't help .

Can you take pictures step by step as you do it, and if it doesn't turn out right, post those?

[Betty F]

I have a real problem with mental rotations, so turning something both upside down and backwards, for example, is impossible for me to visualize.  I like the SB zipper method and have used it successfully.  However, even though it really IS simple, it's important to be sure all those flipping back and forth parts are executed carefully, with attention to rightside/wrongside (of both fabric and zipper)  all the way through -- starting with what gets interfaced.  The video shows this well, but sometimes when working only with pictures its easy to flip things the wrong way, especially if the fabric has no clear rightside/wrongside.

[BeeBee]

I used the Betzina method, had it on my computer on the desk while I sewed.  This is the first time it's happened to me.  And here I was, thinking I was all unique and all. 

[Katherine]

Try Debbie Cook's tutorial:

http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/jeansfly/index.html

She has put together some really good directions for lots of things.  She has photos for each step.

[Janis]

Katherine, thanks for the link.  I've never seen that one, and I use Debbie's tutorials often.  There is something different in the way she does the zip.  I'm going to have to actually do it to figure out what it is, but it has something to do with the way she stitches down the first side of it after she attaches it.  Actually, I think she doesn't stitch it down until after she turns it   Anyway, I'm going to be putting in a zipper today, so we'll see how it works.

[Janis]

I figured it out Yay for me .  You have no idea how excited I am!!!

BeeBee, here's the deal...ya know when S.B. says "Where do I stitch?  Well, I don't know... it doesn't really matter.  There's a time to be a perfectionist and there's a time not to be..." yada, yada.  Well, she's wrong (I can't believe I'm saying that Sandra Betzina is wrong ).  But, if you stitch on the outside edge of the zipper at that point, then when you turn it and stitch it down, it will be too far away from the center front seam when you stitch down the other side.  So you need to stitch that first side close to the zipper coils.  It doesn't have to be super close, but maybe 1/8" away.

Now, Sandra B., if you ever read this please know that I totally admire you and love your books and tutorials.  I've learned a ton from you.  Actually, when you made that tutorial, I'll bet you never realized that there would be someone as stupid as me out there that would stitch on the outside edge of the zipper .  But, alas there is. .

Anyway, I just put in the most beautiful fly front zipper  .

[DebbieY]

Congrats Janis!

I am yet to master zippers so that is one of my goals for the first half of the year. Once the kids are back at school I am going to get me some zippers of different types and offcuts of fabric and sit with either the online tutorials or one of the sewing books I have here and work through the different application methods until I am happy with the outcome. Then and only then will I be attempting to make myself a pair of pants

[fzxdoc]

Janis, I knew you would figure it out! Congrats!

I love Sandra Betzina as well, and own all of her books and several of her DVDs. I even have a collection of her old PBS Sew Perfect shows  on video cassette which I love to watch while exercising. But every now and again her easygoing approach to some sewing methods have led me down a strange path as well. I'd like to see her be a bit more precise, especially with the more tricky techniques.  But you know what? The proof is in the pudding, her garments are wonderful, and her enthusiasm for sewing is infectious, so even though I may have to do a double take once in a while, I still love the way she teaches.

Kathryn

[Janis]

In my never-ending search for the perfect fly-front zipper, I came across this tutorial on youtube and thought I'd share.  It is easy to see, concise, and the zipper is beautiful:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xM9xhkmzuRQ

[melissamade]

thank you for posting that!!  That is the best video on Fly Front I have ever seen!!  I wish they made some more.

[Lisa]

Lovely video!  Thanks Janis!

I wish they made some more.

They say they do at the end of the video.   But it looks like they haven't yet. 

So we can always hope!

Lisa

[BetsyV]

Thanks, Janis! Excellent video. I really hope they continue, too.

[pdiddly]

Thanks Janis - brilliant video.

[Janis]

I actually used this video yesterday to insert a zipper, and it turned out better than any fly front zipper I've put in to date.  When you use this video, you need to listen to it as well as watch it.  If not, there will be things you'll miss.  Ask me how I know

[BeeBee]

Oh dear, don't tell Sandra B., but I may have found a new best friend.

[jsews]

they did do a great job on that video!  Can't wait to see what others they make.

Jean

[Susan in Miami]

Yes, I agree, I always used Sandra Betzina's method before but will be changing to this method. I watched the video a couple of times and wrote down the steps because the first time I always leave something out. Now I have to find time to make pants with a fly front and try it. From my past experience making fly-front pants, I know this will be great.

Thanks Janis, Susan

[shams]

I'm also going to try this.  Thanks, Janis!

[Jane S]

I will be giving this a try.  Thanks.

[ejvc]

Great video, Janis, thank you so much for the link -- makes it all look so easy, doesn't it?  I wonder what kind of machine she is using -- very smooth and powerful, it seemed to me.

I have never sewn with the zipper on the bottom, as she does in the first step.  And I'm amazed at how accurate it seems with only 3 pins.

Elizabeth

[Janis]

Elizabeth, I was a little hesitant to sew with the zipper upside down at first, but it worked.  I did pin it in a few places, though, because I didn't trust myself.

My zipper was a different size, so I made the fly shield a little too short.  The fly shield should probably be about as long as the zipper.

This technique makes a very nice, smooth, fly-front zipper.

[ejvc]

I'm about to make a lot of trousers, so I will work up a sample.  But -- why doesn't anyone ever address FINISHING the wretched thing?  I mean it makes a ton of difference to the look whether you bind the edges, finish them with a serger, etc, etc.  It's irritating that this mostly isn't covered -- the DPC book on trousers does address this, fortunately.  I'll see if I can include it in my sample.

Elizabeth

[melissamade]

I'm about to make a lot of trousers, so I will work up a sample.  But -- why doesn't anyone ever address FINISHING the wretched thing?  I mean it makes a ton of difference to the look whether you bind the edges, finish them with a serger, etc, etc.  It's irritating that this mostly isn't covered -- the DPC book on trousers does address this, fortunately.  I'll see if I can include it in my sample.

Elizabeth

I remember seeing a Sewing with Nancy Video on how to do that.  If I find it i will post.

[Skye]

  video been taken down 

[Janis]

Oh, cr$%!  What the heck   I'm trying to remember who did the video.  I think it was a school   Does anyone remember?

[Ambimom]

I have an avi file of Sandra Betzina's flyfront zipper tutorial.  It's 653 MB so too large to attach here, but if you send me a PM with your email, I'll send you a copy of mine. 

Not all email providers will accept files that large, but if you have a g mail account, there should be no problem receiving it.  You can easily create a g mail account if you don't already have one.

[Susan in Miami]

Oh, cr$%!  What the heck   I'm trying to remember who did the video.  I think it was a school   Does anyone remember?

fashionhowto.com

I just checked out YouTube and there are a number of videos on this subject. I watched the one by Paul Gallo and it was excellent.

ww.youtube.com/watch?v=wfKQygZcfZ0

[jsinger]

The Sandra Betzina video tutorial is available through the Threads website.  I've used this technique numerous times with great results.

[Susan in Miami]

The Sandra Betzina video tutorial is available through the Threads website.  I've used this technique numerous times with great results.

Yes, I have used the Sandra Betzina method for years and the results are always great.

Susan