Bust Length Measurement Question

[Silly_Seamstress]

I have a question pertaining to a certain measurement; I don't know what it is called. In RTW tops or dresses with an empire seam, the seam usually hits me about halfway down my bust rather than underneath. I'm not exactly exceptionally busty (34 Barely B), and I have noticed this happening with patterns too as I've sewn more. Even though I always sew a 12 or 14, I usually have to use a 16 or 18 strap length in order to get the empire seam to fit comfortably under my bust. I think I might have an exceptionally long line from my shoulder to my bust, and I was wondering if anyone knew A) what that measurement was called (if it has a name), and B) If there is an adjustment you can  make for it in non-strappy dresses with an empire waist. I'm fine in dresses with a normal or dropped waist, it's just the empire that gets me. I've been blessed in being exactly the cup size that most patterns are made for so I don't have to make either SBAs or FBAs, so I guess this is the sewing gods' revenge on me for that.  Anyone who can help me with this? Thanks!

[ejvc]

Hi -- this is the upper bodice length measurement.  You would slash the pattern horizontally in the middle of the armhole.  But -- and you can see here where the problem is -- this drops the armhole and would require sleeve cap adjustment, which is icky, and might result in your sleeves not being very comfortable.  Do you normally have trouble with the sleeves binding under the arms?  If not,  I wonder whether it is just the placement of those seams on the pattern? 

What you might be able to do is -- first, trace the armhole onto a sheet of tissue.  Then, slash the pattern horizontally in the middle of the armhole, spread the distance you need (check if there is a bust point marked on the pattern, that should help you make the adjustment -- do a tissue fit first to see how much it needs to move), then redraw the side seam to the original armhole.  You might then need to check whether you need to remove length in the lower bodice so that the waistline still hits at your waist and the hem is where you want it to be.  Hope that helps.

Elizabeth

[kathyann]

I have the same problem with empire waists, but I also do this same fix to move down darts. What works for me is to slash the bodice pattern below the armhole, but above the dart or bust point, and add an inch there, then lengthen the back in the same place. That way you don't have to mess with the armhole, as long as it fits.

I'm tall, so I always have to add length anyway, but like Elizabeth says, you can take out the length further down if you need to. Just remember to do the back, too.

Hope this helps!

[ejvc]

Yes, Kathyann's solution is better.  Just under the armhole ought to do it!

[Silly_Seamstress]

Excellent! It's good to know that this is a legitimate problem and that there is a good solution for it- thank you!

[kathyann]

Happy I could help!