Leather Jacket sew-along

[BetsyV]

Debra

that looks terrific!

[BobbieK]

I had a body scan done and I got my comprehensive measurements yesterday.  It turns out that I am almost exactly a size 21 in the upper body.  After measuring the pattern pieces, I have decided to skip the muslin.  My dining room - err cutting table is covered in faux leather and pattern pieces as I type.  My sails are billowing again

Debra,

Your jacket looks great!!! I was wondering what is the body scan you are talking about?  Thanks!! Bobbie K

[Sergerqueen]

Debra-You are making great progress!  It looks terrific.  Denise-I am envious that you will be going to a class with Susan Khalje.  What fun! 
Right now, I am just happy to be able to be working on my second muslin.  I am hoping that this will be my last before cutting, but I don't want to rush it and make sure I am 100% happy with the fit before I cut the ultrasuede.

[DebraMartin]

Thanks for the compliments.  I am really enjoying working with this faux leather.  It sews like a dream.

Denise, I can't wait to see your hot pink leather.  Perhaps you will wear it to the Expo this spring 

BobbiK,
The body scan was done at Unique Boutique.  They have a booth with lasers which perform a 3D scan of the body.
I have included a sample of the measurement report  they provide.  Once you get your scan verified, you may share the measurements with various vendors for custom sized clothing and patterns.
You can find more information here: http://uniquescan.com/ and here http://uniquescan.com/bodyprints/show/105R0

[Karendee]

Debra,

You are going to look amazing in that red leather jacket. The final product has a magnificent fit.

Karen

[BobbieK]

Debra,

   Wow, that is wild!( I just went to the Unique website) ....how was the scan? Do you find it accurate? I am very intrigued!  Bobbie

[DebraMartin]

BobbieK,
The scan was quick and easy.  The booth was clean and I did not feel claustrophobic.  The measurements are spot on.  I just so happen to correspond with every single BURDA petite size 21 measurement from the waist up, so I chose not to alter the short jacket pattern.  (Lucky Me!!) BURDA has a reputation for being true to their printed measurements.  From the look of how my jacket is coming out, I would say the body scan measurements and the BURDA size chart are both very accurate.
I don't have a picture of the back to post, yet.  It looks really nicely fitted.  There is (about 4 inches of) ease in the jacket.  The shoulder slope is a little off (I always have to adjust for this) but I figured I would pad it with thicker shoulder pads

[DebraMartin]

Got the collar on...


Denise, I know what you mean about the BURDA shoulders. 
I am hoping to look less like a football player once the sleeves are set in and the seam allowances are clipped. 
I do love the high armsyces. They make my upper body look longer 
 


Here is what the back looks like:

[BetsyV]

Wow, Debra, that jacket is really coming along. I LOVE the beads 

[DebraMartin]

Thanks, Betsy - how is your Ultrasuede jacket coming along?

[DeniseM]

Debra, you have put me to shame with your hard work and beautiful jacket. I agree with Bets, the beads are awesome. Wonderful detail.

I think Burda must draft for women with broad shoulders and very little chest. On me, the back is always too big and the front too small. It requires several muslins to get a good fit.

[DebraMartin]

Denise,
How was your sit n sew with Susan Khalje yesterday?

[BetsyV]

Debra the ultrasuede was for the undercollar, sleeve facings, inner pockets, and buttonhole lips. The wool coat is completely finished. Thank you for asking!

And we have one more day of our Sit'n'Sew - it's a 3-day event. I'm there too. We are having a great time but Denise is NOT working on her leather jacket!

[DeniseM]

No, I'm working on my velvet dress. But if I have time I'm going to ask her to fit my leather jacket muslin so I can cut into the faux leather. She requires you use a 1" sa so this may be an issue when I fit the real thing.

It may also not be a hot pink. Ann from Gorgeous Fabrics has a leather source and she's going to help me choose a better color.

[vtmartha]

It may also not be a hot pink. Ann from Gorgeous Fabrics has a leather source and she's going to help me choose a better color.

Oh, lucky you, Denise!

[BobbieK]

Debra,

   Thanks for the body scan info and I LOVE your jacket....what a fit!!  Bobbie

[DebraMartin]

Denise and Betsy,
I wish I had known about the sit 'n' sew as I would be there with you!!  It sounds like such  great way to spend the (long) weekend.  A velvet dress sounds decadent!

I bought extra faux leather in case I made mistakes.  So far so good.  It looks like I'll have enough to make a skirt to go with my jacket.  I am thinking of this skirt from BURDA WOF January 2006.



I will nix the buttons and pocket and just sew a seam at the hip instead.

Here's the thing, though (there is always a thing, right?) does anyone who is not a pop celebrity wear head-to-toe leather?  Can I get away with wearing both pieces together?  I have this feeling I will look like a walking dentist's chair....

[Terri K]

Debra I'm just looking at this topic and am so impressed by your beautiful jacket and workmanship.     I think you can easily wear the skirt with the jacket since you're keeping it simple.   

Denise, when you wear your custom fitted velvet dress to holiday parties, you'll have to post a photo. 

[Ann]

Debra, rodeo queens wear lots of leather. Some of it is head to toe. I am enjoying watch you make your jacket and it is giving me the courage to try this next winter when I have the time to sew and not worry about report cards, annual instructional plans, and Christmas concerts.

Ann

[BetsyV]

Debra I agree with Terri. The simple lines will work fine together and you won't look, umm, like something I suspect you are not.

[DeniseM]

Well, Susan Khalji and several other women backed up Betsy's opinion that I do not look good in hot pink. So I'm looking at a warm dark blue but also wondering if that will translate well into leather. The swatches are lovely but don't know about it for a whole jacket. Though it's a gorgeous blue and I love it. Still have to make the mock-up so I'm way behind but I've been in class for the past few days working on that velvet dress.

[Sergerqueen]

Debra- Carry on!  You are making much better progress than I.  Love the idea of the skirt, too!  I would be careful of what color top and accessories I chose to wear with them.  Too much red could be a bad thing.

Denise-Aren't you glad you found out that hot pink is not your color now rather than when you were done with the jacket???  I think blue sounds nice.  Personally, I am lusting after the bronzy color that Patti made her Louise Cutting BPD jacket out of on the previous page.

Here's my progress report..my fitting buddy came over today to help me with my muslin.  The shoulders are really too big and I needed a little bit taken in on the back.  I think just to make sure I am absolutely 100% satisfied I will break down and make a third muslin.  If I weren't using ultrasuede, I would probably go with the changes I have made and incorporate the new ones without testing them out.  But on this one I would rather be safe than sorry.

Speaking of ultrasuede, I saw that fabric.com has some at a good price, just wondering if anyone has seen or worked with this?

[DeniseM]

I'm patiently awaiting swatches from NY Leather and Suede Skins. When I get them my motivation will return. Today I plan to sew up the muslin on this, baste it together and post a pic if I can figure out how to take my own picture.

[DebraMartin]

I have my sleeves made but not set in yet.  I used Aleenes fabric glue to glue the seam allowances open.  Does anyone have experience with fabric glue and faux leather?  What fabric glue would you recommend?  The backing is rayon and the leather is polyurethane.  I intend to machine wash the jacket.  I am hoping the Aleenes will be fine.  Maybe I should have asked before I went ahead and used it on the sleeves?  I still have to glue the hem.

[BetsyV]

Debra why don't you take a few scraps, make pretend seams and glue them down with the Aleene's glue, and toss them in the wash? You'll get your answer without ruining your jacket.

[Sergerqueen]

Finally, I have something to report...my third muslin was the final one as it fit beautifully.  Tonight, I was able to cut out the jacket from the red ultrasuede.  I am making Vogue 7976...

 I hope to get a bit more done in the next few days as we will be having a quiet Christmas at home so I will probably be able to squeeze in some sewing time. Hooray!

[DeniseM]

I finally got my swatches from NY Leather and Suede and there's a beautiful soft blue that I'm pretty set on. My first try is going to have to wait until after Christmas, though. Hopefully, next week I can finish up my silk velvet dress and start my leather jacket. In case anyone is interested, Kenneth King is offering a sewing with leather class on Pattern Review.

[Sergerqueen]

Denise-What kind of skin will you be using in the powder blue?  How many square feet will you need?  I am asking because I've always wanted to make a lambskin jacket and may tackle it after this.  The jacket pattern I am using (V7976) is very efficient on fabric.  I used less than two yards but I believe it was 60".  Only 4 pattern pieces!  I really like it and would recommend it to anyone in fabric or leather.

[Sergerqueen]

My jacket is coming along nicely.  I am working slowly and carefully and trying to enjoy the process.  I fused the fronts and back with Pro-Weft Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply.  It added just the right amount of body to the ultrasuede.  I may get the zipper in tonight, but won't hurry it since I tend to make more mistakes sewing at night!

[DebraMartin]

I got the sleeves set in, and the lining made.  I finished bagging the lining and attaching the cuffs.  It's all done!  I will take pictures tomorrow.

[DeniseM]

Ack, I'm still in the muslin phase. Really busy with gifts and other things. You're just rocketing along. Can't wait to see the pictures.

[DebraMartin]

Here are my finished pictures!






Here I have it turned inside out to show the lining.  I used a silk print I found at the Vogue Fabrics booth at last year's Sewing and Quilting Expo in Worcester.  (I will not be able to machine wash it. I'll just use a steamer on the inside and a damp cloth on the leather.)



If you look closely at the sleeve seam, you can see how big the opening was that I used to turn the lining to the inside.



I'm ready for my close-up



The shoulders are a little too wide, but I am happy enough with it to actually wear it.  Overall - pretty decent fit for ZERO pattern alterations!!



Now to make a skirt....

[DeniseM]

Wow, what a great job you did. Excellent jacket. Looks really chic and pretty on you. Congratulations. I haven't taken two minutes to work on my muslin since I got it altered so my next step is to get cranking on that. Plus, I found a really pretty eggshell blue leather I want to use after my first go-round with the faux leather. Can't believe you did zero alterations. It's a great fit. I bow to your energy and expertise as well as your skill. 

[DebraMartin]

I can't wait to see what you do with this awesome eggshell blue leather.  It sounds dreamy.  Did you get it at Gorgeous Fabrics?

[BetsyV]

Debra

that is just stunning! I love the lining!