Leather Jacket sew-along

[DeniseM]

Some folks have expressed interest in doing a leather jacket sew-along for fall. I'm going to DC in a few weeks and would like to have mine made for then. I'm using a Burda Style petite pattern from last month's issue (Oct.) and making mine in faux leather. Today my aim is to trace off the pattern, make a few adjustments and cut out the muslin.

[movinon]

Oh cool! Any pattern?  I recently refound some lavender sueded leather for a jeans type jacket I'd gotten a few years ago. Pattern already fitted and used once.  Too bad I have no idea where that one is... 

[Sergerqueen]

I'd like to play, too!  I have wanted to sew a leather jacket for a long time but have got no further than dreaming a about it.  I would like to start by getting the pattern tweaked in a faux suede first.  I would like to work on Vogue 7976 Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina


I'm not sure how much time I will have to devote to this, but I think a sew along would help me to get closer to my goal.

[DebraMartin]

count me in! I will also be making the petite jacket from the October issue of BurdaStyle.
I will need to fit a muslin first.  So far, I managed to separate the pattern sheets from the rest of the magazine...

[Queenie]

I wish that I had the courage to make a leather jacket!  I will be watching for your creations.
The above pictures are from the Louise Cutting / Linda Lee retreat  a couple of weeks ago.  Patti made this By Popular Demand jacket out of leather at the retreat..the leather was super soft and draped well. 
Thought you might like to see it!
Dotty

[DeniseM]

Dotty, that's such a pretty jacket. Thanks for the pictures.

I'm making mine out of faux leather from Sawyer Brook. It's an option, in case you want to try without risking real leather, which is expensive. You can do any jacket pattern so if you have a t&t why not give it a go? The trick is to chop off one seam allowance, lay it over the other and do a topstitch rather than sewing the leather right sides together. At least those are the directions in the Burda Style magazine. I made a real leather skirt years ago and sewed right sides together then topstitched on the outside. It was beautiful.

I see this as a way to make myself work with fabrics I'm not accustomed to. If this comes out great in faux leather, I may look for something in a real leather in bright pink. I saw a pink leather jacket a couple weeks ago and it was gorgeous.

[movinon]

Just a thought... unless you have a great experience with the faux leather, please don't let it influence or determine your decision to work with the real thing or not.  Faux leather can be a beautiful fakeout - or a major pain in the bleep to work with.  There are many different qualities and grades, just as with real leather.

The differences are like comparing polyester silky to silk.  Synthetic to natural fiber.  The faux leathers are often unwielding, unmalleable, cannot be easily curved, or manipulated into things as can the real thing.  Seams sewn right sides together may not let you press or fold them into the position you'd like easily for topstitching.  I made my first welt pocket welts and bound buttonhole welts out of a faux leather in wool garment.  Looked great from the outside but what a bear to work with, you had to stitch down areas like the little triangles that stick out the sides of welts because they couldn't be pressed into position, wanted to just roll back toward original shape.   Imagine a synthetic/man made fabric where you can't press seams flat or open.

So I understand not wanting to make the investment in the real thing... just know that the fake stuff could be a great and easy to work with piece that will give you interest/confidence to move forward with the real thing -- or an experience such that you'll never have the pleasure of knowing how much easier the real thing is to deal with!

[DeniseM]

I hear you, Karen. Fortunately, the faux stuff from SB is very high quality and is quite malleable and soft, similiar to what I used for my skirt. It was $17/yard and looks so much like the real think you'd never guess it was fake. SB will send a swatch if you ask. I have seen some fake leathers that are stiff and pretty awful feeling. But I saw a faux leather jacket (called vegetarian leather) at one of the Pattern Review events and the woman who made it won the PR contest for best jacket. It was so gorgeous and looked real. She bought the fabric at (gulp) Wal Mart. But I don't think most WM's carry fabric anymore.

I will be going to DC in a couple of weeks and G Street often has skins for sale. If I can find enough in the right color I'll pick some up to make a real leather jacket next go round. I'm not really into leather, but I'm losing weight and want to reward myself with something special.

[Sergerqueen]

Queenie, thanks so much for posting Patti's jacket from the retreat.  Patti, it is TDF!  Job well done!

I am still debating on what type of leather "faux" or real or even ultrasuede.  Gorgeous Fabrics has some nice ultrasuede that I may order.  I'm going to take a look at the SB faux leather too.

[Sergerqueen]

Well I broke down last night and went with the red ultrasuede from Gorgeous Fabrics--it will be gorgeous!!!

[DeniseM]

Wow, no kidding, a red ultrasuede jacket will be fabulous. Make sure you get some info on sewing with this stuff because once you punch a hole in it, same as leather, it doesn't disappear. BetsyV said a really sharp microtex needle does a good job. Can't wait to see how it turns out. I'm ordering some leather swatches from Global in NYC in case I decide to do this twice.

Off to finish tracing those pattern pieces and getting a muslin stitched up. That, to me, is the tough part.

FYI: here is a link I found that might be helpful:
http://www.ehow.com/how_2038402_sew-leather-standard-sewing-machine.html

[Sergerqueen]

Yes, I am taking a leap of faith here having never sewn on leather or ultrasuede, but I know I can do this and I have been coveting a jacket or two of leather or suede.  Thanks Denise for the tips.  I read through them and I am also going to pull out my copy of the PP Ultrasuede sewing book.  I have done one muslin on this jacket but never made it.  I need to pull it out and see what state it is in before I proceed.

[DeniseM]

I am awaiting leather swatches from Global and Leather Impact. Meanwhile I have to admit to slacking off on tracing out the Burda pattern. We are going to the DC area in a couple weeks so I plan on checking out what G Street has for leather as well. They sometimes get remnants in and in the past I've found enough to make a skirt and vests.

Anyway, I do plan to get that traced off today and put a muslin together. It should not be too hard to fit. I traced the shoulders and neckline out in a size 19 and the rest in a 20, going to a 21 at the hip area. I'll trace a 21 in the sleeve to give myself room in the bicep/tricep and maybe even add an inch to that. I shouldn't have to do a huge FBA if the pattern sizing chart is accurate.

Update: my swatches from both leather shops came in today. There's a great hot pink from Global. I just need to see if it suits my coloring. They also sent some gorgeous reads. Leather Impact sent smaller swatches, but more of them in some gorgeous colors also.

[DebraMartin]

Karen,
Thanks for those words of wisdom regarding the real thing. I have never sewn leather or faux leather. This will be a first for me.

[Sergerqueen]

Well the red ultrasuede that I bought from Gorgeous Fabrics is here.  I am enjoying looking at it and petting it.  Nor sure how much time I will have to work on it this week, but we shall see!

[movinon]

Karen,
Thanks for those words of wisdom regarding the real thing. I have never sewn leather or faux leather. This will be a first for me.

You're welcome.  As Denise said, her material from SB was wonderful, so you see all fauxs are not created equal... I have used some that were easyschmeasy to work with, I do recall that they were thinner though than what I did those first welts and binding with, so that may play a role as well, but I do think the backing has something to do with it as well.  And all leathers are not the same either.

On the needle topic just wondering why a microtex vs. leather on the ultrasuede?

[BetsyV]

Karen this is kind of avoiding your question or putting the responsibility on others, but GorgeousFabrics makes needle recommendations on every fabric, and she suggests a Sharp 70/10 needle for the Ultrasuede Light she currently has available. Fields Fabrics, from where I purchased a piece of Ultrasuede Soft, suggests size 80/12, but doesn't say what kind of point.

Based on my own experimentation on the Ultrasuede Soft, I chose the Sharp 70/10. It makes tiny holes and a nice stitch. I tried a few different needles. The only Leather needle I have is much much too big, 18, for this lightweight fabric. The leather needle has a slight wedge shape to it, and I didn't want that kind of hole in the Ultrasuede. The coat fabric I am using in this project doesn't seem to mind the Sharp 70/10 needle either, where I am joining the US to the wool.

I think it will depend on what weight faux leather or suede a person is using. Upholstery-weight might very well be better with a leather needle.

[DeniseM]

I'm finally done with tracing out the pattern. Now I need to measure and adjust a bit then do my first muslin. How is everyone else doing?

[DebraMartin]

I'm where you are - got the pattern traced, but need to take a few measurements and make tweaks before cutting my mock-up.

[Sergerqueen]

Same point here, too.  I've also washed the ultrasuede and lining and read up on sewing with ultrasuede.

[DebraMartin]

I can't figure out what fabric to use for my mock-up.  I want something that has the same body and drape as my Ultraleather. 

Also, the Ultraleather is red but it has a white knit rayon backing which looks just awful.  I don't want the white to show if I use lapped seams.  I haven't experimented with the lapped seams yet, but I am pretty sure that is how I want to construct the jacket.  Now I just have to figure out if I need to dye the backing, or just try to color it at the edges?  Maybe with a Sharpie???

Needless to say, this has taken the wind out of my sails...

[DeniseM]

Hey, Deb: it's quite possible that the stitching will cover any backing issues, but try a sample before you get discouraged. Where did you get the ultraleather? Did they tell you it had a contrast backing? If not, you may be able to return it.

I would not be concerned with using an ultraleather type fabric for the mock-up. A fairly heavy muslin should be just fine. As long as it's heavy, it will translate. For this jacket, you may want to sew the leather conventionally, especially if the contrast proves to be an issue. I've sewn with leather using conventional seams and it looks great. I took a leather class with Connie Long at G Street ages ago and that's how she had us sew. It's just the Burda styling thing that uses the overlapped seams. Once you have completed this jacket, you may decide to make another and try the overlapped seams.

I'm going off to DC this morning and I'll visit G Street at some point. Often they have leather skins. I'm bringing my pattern pieces along in the event they have something interesting. Otherwise, my second jacket will be hot pink leather from Global, after I have made the one from faux leather from SB. If you decide to return the ultraleather, or it doesn't pan out of you, I recommend you check out their faux leather. The texture and drape is identical to the real thing.

[Sergerqueen]

Hoping to get my second muslin done this weekend and maybe get my final jacket cut out!

[LauraS.]

Having just read this thread.... Sergerqueen, I've got that SB jacket pattern also and am interested in how your jacket turns out.  I had planned to use a vintage gold boucle I found on e-bay a couple of years ago to make the fringed version.  Never thought about making it in leather/suede (faux or not).

I kind of just jump into projects, sometimes without any thought (or reason) or research.  Did this a couple of years ago when I purchased an Ultrasuede.  Very soft and lightweight.  I fused an interfacing to it to give it some weight and was sewing merrily along and noticed air bubbles.  No amount of pressing helped.  The project was scrapped.  I've got a butter yellow ultrasuede piece that's a bit heavier.  Not enough for a jacket, but will make a vest from it. (I do like the term waistcoat better.)  I may jump in as I've got a tooled faux leather piece (from Walmart) that I've been holding on to to make a jacket.  I've washed it plenty of times, but it appears to be one of those faux pieces Karen mentioned that just isn't going to work with you no matter how nice you are to it.  So I was thinking something a bit box-y... or perhaps some pillows! My experience in real leather is limited to a fun coat I'm finishing up (my "frankly my dear I don't give a damask" coat).  The cuffs and collar are in a repurposed black leather.  Very easy to work with.  Cut and turned on the collar points just fine. 

Does anyone remember the leather fringed shawl (or was it a poncho) that was in Threads a few years back?  That is the leather project I'm really wanting to take on.  It's always in the back of my mind when I see skins.  I haven't sewn up enough of my stash to justify purchasing the leather tho.  Soon, tho... I hope.

IAE, I look forward to seeing more pics (do love Patti's leather jacket!)

LauraS

[DebraMartin]

Denise,
Thanks for the encouragement.  I did some sample stitching today and I am happy with the lapped seams.  The white backing doesn't show.  I bought the fabric from newtoto for $21/yd.  It is supple and drapes well.  The backing is woven - not knit as I posted before.  The woven backing makes it stable on the lengthwise grain with some give on the cross-grain.  Here is a picture of a sample stitch out.  I loosened my presser foot pressure and lengthened my stitch length.  I used a (new) universal 80/12 needle.  Also, I sewed it with the straight stitch plate and foot which I highly recommend. 

I had a body scan done and I got my comprehensive measurements yesterday.  It turns out that I am almost exactly a size 21 in the upper body.  After measuring the pattern pieces, I have decided to skip the muslin.  My dining room - err cutting table is covered in faux leather and pattern pieces as I type.  My sails are billowing again

[BeeBee]

I have a mid thigh coat of Italian leather that I have decided will become a jacket.  Maybe next fall.  There's plenty of material to work with and I don't wear the coat anymore - I bought it about 10 years ago in Florence.

[Sergerqueen]

Bee Bee-
What a great way to repurpose an unworn coat!  You can make a matching purse out of the leftovers!

Debra-That's great that you were able to avoid the white backing from showing through!  I think the lapped seams look terrific.

Alas, a few other things have come up this weekend so I may not be able to get any work done on my ultrasuede jacket, but I have a lighter schedule this week so I should be able to make some progress on it.

[DeniseM]

Wow, Debra, that looks great. You're way ahead of me. Those lapped seams are perfect and you'd never know the underside didn't match. It's going to be an awesome jacket. Love the color.

After checking out the leather at G Street in Falls Church, Va. on Friday, I've decided to get the hot pink leather from Global. I will make my muslin this weekend and when it's fitted I'll start on the faux leather version, which my friends referred to as "fake Naugahyde." But it's very pretty fake naugahyde so who's going to know? I saw a woman at a Pattern Review event wearing a fake leather jacket from fabric she got at Wal Mart (called vegetarian leather) and it was awesome.

[DebraMartin]

I have all my pieces cut and the back is sewn.  I found it useful to mark all seam lines with a chalk wheel.  One of the reasons I like Burda patterns is because they don't have seam allowances, which makes it an easy job to mark the seam lines when I am cutting

[DeniseM]

Debra you are way ahead of me. I've been sick for two weeks so my sewing has been taking a back seat to gaggin on Robitussin and napping. Good for you, you are really plugging away. I need to cut the muslin out and make my adjustments.

[DebraMartin]

here is what the back looks like

[DeniseM]

Wow, Debbie, that is gorgeous. You're moving right along and doing a great job.

I had an initial fitting of my pattern yesterday. Just the usual modifications, FBA, bring the back neck down a bit. The lady who helped me suggested that I make the muslin out of a heavy weight pellon which has no give, just like leather. So that's my next step. Redraw the pattern and make the pellon muslin. I do not anticipate a lot of fittiing issues once that is done.

I called Global to see if they have any other colors that are more suited to me. If not I'm going with the hot pink, which is way wonky and fun. And I can always wear a scarf - well, I always wear a scarf anyway.

[DebraMartin]

next comes the sleeves and collar...
how is everyone else doing?

[ejvc]

Zow, looks beautiful!

[DeniseM]

I'm makiing my muslin up in Pellon this week and bringing it along to the Susan Khalji sit and sew on Friday to get some feedback on fit. The shoulders on the original pattern were huge on me. I guess German women are all built like football players? Even the petites. Debbie, you are rocketing right along. Congratulations. It looks fabulous.