Another jeans sew-along

[marciae]

What pattern are you using?  I'm sure you told us earlier in this thread - - but the mind is the first to go you know!!

[Threads]

I love King Tut thread!  And it doesn't break when you are topstitching through heavy fabric.

[MrsBean]

I finally figured out how to post photos. Watch out, I might have an avatar soon!

Still haven't hemmed my jeans yet, but otherwise I give them a big thumbs up. They fit well. I am happy with the top stitching. I even got my overlocker to work without the glitch I was experiencing. I am so happy.

Facts:
Pattern - Jalie 2908 - regular rise.  I am happy with this cut - I think the low rise would have been too low for me.
Fabric - medium weight stretch denim. Can't remember where I got it. Amy Butler quilt fabric used for lining and gly guard piece.
Topstitch Thread - King Tut 'Flax'. Sewed beautifully. No shreds or breaks.

These are my best pictures, but not that great, sorry.





Now I want to make another pair...

[vtmartha]

Those look great, MrsBean.  I'm finishing up a pair as well.  Not ecstatic about the fit as I began them over a year ago and 'things' change.  I've never heard of King Tut thread.  Must investigate further. 

[ejvc]

Cute jeans!  Hooray!

Elizabeth

[marciae]

Jeans look good Mrs. Bean.  I've cut out my TJ jeans - probably won't get started until Monday.  Today is 'cut out' day!!

[JenSA]

Great job, it looks store bought, but probably fits better. Love the AmyB cotton, I have that one as well.

[Claudine]

Great jeans, Mrs Bean!  Are you going to hem them or leave them unfinished?

I'm still planning on joining in this sew-along, but I'm slow in gathering materials.  I've found the denim I want on ebay, and I'm thinking of the hotpatterns trouser jean pattern.  I've wanted to try hotpatterns for years, so now is my chance.

[Threads]

Nice jeans Mrs. B - the topstitching looks great.

I have been awfully slow getting started on this due to changing my mind on material.  But I got an order from  Michaels Fabrics on Friday - one rather stiff cotton/linen in blue with vertical stripes; and a solid blue cotton herringbone with a soft hand.  Both were washed twice on "sanitary" setting, which is blistering hot, and out through a hot dryer.  Lots of wrinkles in the striped material, but I am pretty sure there won't be any shrinkage after that.

I really need new pants after losing weight, so cut out both fabrics at the same time, using a Jalie pattern that I used before.  Only got as far as pressing the pockets yesterday, but did decide that the most important part of pocket placement is going to be matching the stripes!

[Katherine]

I've been out of town, so I haven't made any progress.

Today I got the new Burda magazine.  It has a cute pair of jeans that would be easy to fit.

http://www.burdafashion.com/en/125_Pants_trousers/1437262-1000017-1270777-1000019-1746918-1750534.html

The technical drawing:

http://www.burdafashion.com/en/125_Pants_trousers_technical_drawing/1437262-1000017-1270777-1000019-1746918-1750534-1750536.html

The same basic pattern is used 4 different ways, so you could make trousers to get the fit, then make the jeans.

I'm thinking about trying these.  Do you think I need to focus on one thing?

Katherine

[marciae]

I got started today with my TJ jeans - I sewed the two back seams and the darts in the pockets!!  The back pockets had a small dart at each corner - it makes the pocket a sort of a bag??  I don't think that I need a back pocket like that on my aging back side!!  I'm going to cut a regular flat back pocket.  The original pockets have a flap so you could put lots in the back pocket and button it!  Not for me.  I cut these out of a cheap green twill.

Katherine - I'll look at those drawing in a minute.

ETA - Katherine those look interesting.  I didn't see them in my Nov mag - what mag is it in??  The flare at the bottom is a nice design detail - not for me - but it might be great for you.

[jem]

Is that Burda Pattern just in the Burda magazine or can you buy it at a fabric store that sells Burda Patterns? 

[Katherine]

Marcia, it was Nov.  It's on pg 49 & part of that Take 1 Make 4 series.  That's the only place those pants are shown.  I would have missed it too, but I saw it in the line illustrations.

There are 4 versions of this pattern.  You could use the rest of it & skip the godets.

Jem, for the moment that pattern is just in the magazine.  Sometimes magazine patterns are packaged as envelope ones later.  I can't help you with a local source for the magazine.

Katherine

[vtmartha]

I am rapidly approaching the time for installing a button and buttonhole in my jeans.  I can't tell you how much I am dreading this.    The denim is some I purchased from Fabric Mart some years ago and is unnecessarily heavy.  I made one pair of jeans from the same fabric a few years ago and put a snap at the waist.  The snap came apart at a very inopportune moment so I don't want to take that chance again.  Any suggestions for sewing buttonholes in heavy fabric would be greatly appreciated. 

I haven't done the rear pockets yet.  I'll have to figure out how best to situate them on a flat behind.  And then whether they need any fancy topstitching.  Honestly, I'm not even sure I need pockets back there.

I'm looking forward to sewing another pair in a lighter weight velveteen and doing a flat seat adjustment, which I desperately need.  I've also determined I'm decidedly bow-legged (hmm, how could that be  ) but the idea of adjusting jeans for bow-leggedness seems like a contradiction in terms.

[marciae]

Martha - could you do a hand button hole??  I only had problems with one pair - and that was 'operater' error on my machine!!  I vasilate between back pockets and no pockets.  AND, if you look at RTW - they run the gamut also.  For me, it also depends on how where I'm going to wear the jeans - if they're of better fabric I do put on a back pocket - if it's a 'muslin' I don't bother.  I made the petite plus jeans a couple of years back - they had the seam down the back, etc and I thought the back pocket was 'too busy' for me.  The TJ pattern calls for a bag back pocket.  I'm definitely not going to put that on!!  For the velveteen ones I might be inclined to leave off the back pocket so they'd be a bit dressier??  Just my rambling thoughts on the subject!  Off to sew on my jeans!

[vtmartha]

Thanks, Marcia.  I might actually sew a buttonhole on my machine to see how it goes and be prepared to do a hand version around the opening, if need be.  I'll definitely skip the pockets on the dressier versions.

[sdBev]

Thanks, Marcia.  I might actually sew a buttonhole on my machine to see how it goes and be prepared to do a hand version around the opening, if need be.  I'll definitely skip the pockets on the dressier versions.

vtMartha
I don't know how much help this will be..... But I prefer buttons I can sew on with my SM.  I let it stich all the way through, and then repeat.  After stitching is done, I use frey-check on front and on back; on both buttonhole and button.  After the frey check is completely dry, I cut open the buttonhole and trim the connecting threads between the buttons.   This works well for me.  The thickest fabrics I sew for pants are usually corduroy.  The waistband would have 2 thickness of corduroy and 2 thickness of interfacing.

 HTH

[Katherine]

Martha, on the first pair of jeans I made years ago I made a machine buttonhole using thread that matched the denim & then did a hand worked buttonhole over it using heavy gold thread.

If imitating RTW is your thing, that actually looked more like RTW than what I would do now that I have a machine that does reasonably good keyhole buttonholes.

[Patti B]

Vtmartha, I dreaded sewing the buttonhole on my recent jeans and it was a snap. I don't know what machine you have but mine's a Bernina and I used the metal buttonhole compensation plates. This helps in areas where the bulk varies from one side to the other. I'm not sure I needed it but I did use it.    Also, my waistband was only one layer of denim (interfaced) and a layer of quilting cotton so it may have been less bulky than your band.

[vtmartha]

Patti, I've never seen that attachment before.  I use a Viking Rose.  I have two layers of denim and two interfacing but it's running along the edge of the seam allowance that bothers me.  Probably I should  try to trim out some of that sa, if I still can.  I didn't topstitch all the way to the end because the top of the zipper as well as all the other stuff was in the way.  I'm definitely collecting a list of things I will do differently on my next pair.    I can't remember where I stored my remaining denim so I may have to use one of my unattached back pockets to practice button holes.     I wear a belt so I'm not sure what the fuss is all about.  Instead I should be 'worrying' about how to attach all those belt loops. 

[marciae]

Belt loops!!   I only put them on jeans that I might wear a belt with!!  I always sew mine into the WB when I attach to the pant - if it's a two piece band I also sew the belt loops into the top.  I have LOTS of problems with the bulk if I just fold the end of the loops (like they tell you to do).  It seems like you're sewing over so much bulk for such a short distance??!!  If someone else has some great ideas I'd love to hear them!!

[sdBev]

Belt loops!!   I only put them on jeans that I might wear a belt with!!  I always sew mine into the WB when I attach to the pant - if it's a two piece band I also sew the belt loops into the top.  I have LOTS of problems with the bulk if I just fold the end of the loops (like they tell you to do).  It seems like you're sewing over so much bulk for such a short distance??!!  If someone else has some great ideas I'd love to hear them!!

My Bernina has a 9mm stitch, most machines are limited to 7mm so this may not work.  but I can choose the serpentine stitch, drop the feed dogs and place my 9mm foot on the belt loop.  Without moving a mm, I stitch back and forth across the belt loop.  The foot doesn't move, only the needle making the 3-stitch serpentine stitch.

[marciae]

Thanks Bev, I'll have to try that.

I'm hoping to finish my TJ jeans today - I've been hunkered down by the machine because of the bad storm!  Anyway I'm already thinking about making a velveteen pair - I've wanted to do that for some time and had sort of dismissed the idea until Martha said she had ordered some.  My mind is reeling with question - - - should i make the typical jeans - belt loops, pockets, top stitching, jean zipper - - OR - should I do more of a jean trouser - regular zipper, not much top stitching - no back pockets.  Can't believe I'm even thinking of making something else - I still haven't finished this pair and I have 3 more items cut out!!!

[vtmartha]

Very clever, Bev.  I don't know what my stitch limitations are.  I apparently don't even know what my own are.    Why would this not work with a narrower serpentine?

[Katherine]

I sew my belt loops into the waistband at the bottom.  At the top I fold it over at the top & then tack it in place using a wide zig-zag with the feed dogs dropped.  Then without cutting the thread I raise the feed dogs, reset the zig-zag to about 2mm wide & .5mm long.  I move back to the beginning & stitch slowly.  My machine will sew through the thickness but it pushes the loop out of position if it's not tacked in place first.

Unless your belt loops are really skinny, the 4mm stitch width I have on my Bernina 930 won't go the whole way across the belt loop.  The belt loops on the Jalie pattern finished to about 1/2".  That's about 12.5mm.   I guess you could move it over & so another serpentine stitch tack next to it, but if your machine will do that, it will probably do what I do.

Katherine

[sdBev]

Very clever, Bev.  I don't know what my stitch limitations are.  I apparently don't even know what my own are.    Why would this not work with a narrower serpentine?

Depends upon how wide your belt loops are.  The 7mm doesn't seem to catch the edges of my belt loops, whereas my 9mm does.  Try it.  If you like it at 7mm, it's the right thing to use.

[marciae]

I've 'almost' finished my TJ jeans.  I have to sew on the WB facing, hem and put a closure at the waist.  I have an odd wrinkle down the CB seam going almost to the back crotch curve.  At the moment I'm not quite sure if I need to - - scoop; let out the sides a bit - or??  I stopped for tea!!  I'm not quite sure exactly how I feel about this pattern.  I think it's more jean fit in nature - and I like a smooth back - like slacks.  I'm also not quite sure about the seam up the back.  The pattern is well drafted - while it fits lower than the waist - it's just a "smidgen" lower - making a nice fit if you waist and hips have a lot of difference.  Maybe when they are all complete and the opening is not pinned it will look better?? 

[marciae]

I just posted pics and a quick review under Trudy Jensen patterns.

Off to shovel driveway and walks!!

[Threads]

I've been plugging along, doing a little every evening after work and dinner.  It's a pattern I have used before so I felt confident enough to make two pairs in tandem (dark blue stripe and a solid blue so they share the same thread color).  It will probably be faster in the end but right now it feels like I have done nothing by pockets all week.  Both sets of back pockets done, and both center back seams done.  Last night some headway into the front pockets.  I decided to cut the pocket bags from a cute quilting batik cotton that never seemed to fit into any quilt color schemes.  I think I like using the material, it is very thin and finely woven, so a little less bulk that the pocket material used in RTW.

I'm hoping to get these finished over the weekend so I have something to wear next week!

[vtmartha]

The buttonhole is in after several practice attempts.  It's okay but didn't end up being centered top to bottom in the waistband due to the bulky seam allowances.  I will get over it and hope that this will be a step toward dealing with the perfectionism which so often gets in my way. 

[Patti B]

Ahhhh, the paralyzed by perfectionism syndrome! I'm sure they are wearable and flattering -- more than that we cannot ask. Well, we can beg!

[marciae]

Oh Martha, I can relate!  No one will see the button hole and if they do they won't realize it's not centered properly.   But I know you think there is a BIG RED sign on them that says - - look here!!   At least that's what I always think when something like that happens!!

[vtmartha]

Marcia, I knew when Katherine suggested handworking the machine stitched bh in topstitching thread that I was not going to be doing that. 

[Threads]

Speaking of perfectionism, is anyone doing true felled seams in construction, or just a regular seam that is topstitched twice to mimic felling?  The jeans I made last year I went through the process of felled seams, and it takes a long time plus makes adjustments difficult.  This time around I am feeling a bit guilty for taking the easy way out, but there really doesn't seem to be any different in the look, and it is much faster.

[marciae]

I've never done the true felled seams!!   Sometimes I don't even do the 'mock'.  If you do some jeans snooping you'll find  - - some jeans have both out seam and inseam 'felled' - some are plain on one but not both - some are plain seams on both.  I don't like to do double top stitching on the side as it's pretty hard to make adjustments, like you stated.  I don't put in the coin pocket either.  I very rarely wear a shirt tucked in and if I do I definitely have a belt on and a jacket or vest.  I know that some folks want their jeans 'authentic' but unless you're using heavy blue or black denim all the time they aren't authentic anyway IMHO!