Another jeans sew-along

[Katherine]

Martha, I only embroidered the buttonhole once!  My recent ones have been done on my combo embroidery machine using all purpose thread that matches the fabric.  That includes the Jalie City coat pattern:

http://www.jalie.com/city-coat-pattern.html

I don't do real flat felled seams anymore either.  I do the mock on on the CB seam & outseams.  I just checked my 7 for all Mankind jeans.  They have a real flat felled CB, but both the inseam & outseam are stitched with the seams serged together & pressed to one side.  Then edge stitched.

Marcia, I hear you about double stitched side seams.  I have a pair of stretch denim ones that need all vertical seams taken in.  No way am I ripping the inseams that were double topstitched.  I don't even want to rip the side seam where I edgestitched from the waist to the bottom of the pocket.

I really should be working on my jeans, not chatting.

[vtmartha]

I had to take in all my sides seams as well, not realizing how much bigger than my muslin the addition of lycra would make them.    At that point, they were only basted but I then sewed them the way Katherine described her purchased jeans.  It's a good thing I didn't realize that 'real' jeans had flat felled seams or I'd be struggling through that maneuver as well. 

[sdBev]

I had to take in all my sides seams as well, not realizing how much bigger than my muslin the addition of lycra would make them. ...

I've found there is such a difference in sizing and shape, that I purchase and use patterns specifically for knits. I know you can alter a pattern designed for knits, I just don't to want to work at it that hard.

[vtmartha]

I haven't tried making jeans style pants with a knit fabric, Bev.  Are you suggesting that you use a knit pattern when you make jeans with a lycra denim?

[sdBev]

I haven't tried making jeans style pants with a knit fabric, Bev.  Are you suggesting that you use a knit pattern when you make jeans with a lycra denim?

Not exactly.  My jeans pattern for denim with lycra is Kwik Sew 3315. It has all the jean styling, but adapted for stretch-wovens.

[vtmartha]

Well, from now on, I am not purchasing denim with lycra.  That should simplify things. 

[Threads]

Glad to hear I am not the only one taking the easier route on the felled seams!  I don't mind felling shirt seams but it does get awfully bulky with bottom weight fabric. 

It was a productive weekend - managed to move past the endless pockets and got one pair of jeans finished (which I am wearing now).  They are quite high waisted but such a good fit I don't mind.  As always it took some time to get through the zipper, but then finished up quickly on the hems and waistband.  I have one sewing machine who's sole purpose (apart from emergency backup) is to make buttonholes, using an old mechanical Singer buttonholer.  It did quite a nice keyhole and I got to use up a loner button for the final touches.

The second pair is coming along - inseam and side seams still to go, then all the finish work.  It's the same pattern, but I think after those are done I'll switch over to the lower rise pattern for a change of pace and a little different look.  Probably another 2 pairs, since I am pretty low on comfortable pants that are office appropriate.

I was buying fabric in 3 yard pieces because it wasn't very expensive and I wanted to be sure to have enough.  But now I am accumulating about 1.25 yard pieces in dark bottom weight cottons (black, navy, dark brown, gray pinstripe).  Not sure what they are good for - it's enough to make a skirt but there is no drape to the fabric so pattern selection would be critical.

[sdBev]

...
I was buying fabric in 3 yard pieces because it wasn't very expensive and I wanted to be sure to have enough.  But now I am accumulating about 1.25 yard pieces in dark bottom weight cottons (black, navy, dark brown, gray pinstripe).  Not sure what they are good for - it's enough to make a skirt but there is no drape to the fabric so pattern selection would be critical.

Ah... I save mine for shorts and bags of all types. Just a thought...

[Katherine]

Threads, I've got similar yd to 1 1/2 yd pieces too.  I've been making skirts.  I used patterns from Burda Style magazines.

I copy the pages with the line drawings & bind them together so it's easy to go through a large number of issues.  I paged through them looking at skirts, imagining them in denim.  I used patterns that I would never would have thought of just looking at the photos.

Skirts with lots of seams worked well because there were opportunities for topstitching.  None of them are the traditional jeans skirt.

[Claudine]

Here's an interesting blog post on Fashion Incubator on denim quality:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-denim-quality-pt-2/

The entry quotes extensively from someone from Cone Denim, which is the company that made the denim that I just bought.

[marciae]

Interesting article.  Thanks for posting.  Where did you'find' the cone denim?

[Claudine]

I found Cone denim on ebay.  Some enterprising soul bought several bolts and is selling them there.  It's nice fabric.  I remember when I was a kid, that jeans were really different than they are now.  A couple of years ago, I was frustrated looking for jeans made from the sort of denim that I remember from my youth.  Then I started reading about denim and found that the denim I remember is called "selvedge denim" and it has become an expensive specialty item.  I think I paid $13/yd, but it's only 30" wide.  It is not a stretch fabric, but it has much more give than the 100% cotton denims and twills that I have seen recently.

I'm making the hotpatterns trouser jean with it.  I just cut it out today, and the back crotch curve is sort of unusual.  It's more of a crotch angle.  I'm curious to see how they will fit.

[marciae]

Thanks Claudine - I did see the denim on e-bay then saw it was 30in??  I have some denim I purchased about 10 years ago at the Humane Soc. thrift shop which was close to a manufacturing company.  It is VERY stiff - more like Levi brand denim.  I washed it several times but to date have done nothing with it - 'saving' it!!   Re the HP - as thin as you appear in your photos I don't think that curve will work for you - it's really for someone with a 'tush'!!   I will be looking forward to seeing how it works for you - you're very good at fitting yourself.  Keep us posted!!

[Threads]

I got my second pair of jeans finished up last weekend (a stiff cotton/linen blend that needs some breaking in), and will see what I can do about photographs.  Both pairs are topstitched like jeans, but using dark blue thread on dark blue pants, so it has the form of jeans, but look more like office work pants, which is what they are.

Meanwhile I am getting geared up to make a jeans jacket.  Ordered fabric from fabric.com - I want to do a quilting (applique) design on the back panel, so I bought extra fabric to bleach and overdye.  Hopefully I can get enough variation in the colors to make it look meaningful - it might need some accents in quilting cottons.  But this weekend will be spent tracing off patterns for the mid-rise Jalie jeans, and the Jalie jeans jacket.  Their patterns fit me so well that I haven't bothered to try any others, but they do need to be traced.  The jeans jacket has enough pieces that I will need to settle down with a roll of tissue paper and focus.

Thanks for the thoughts about the leftover fabric.  I think I will get my sister down for a sewing weekend and we will crank out the straight skirts that she favors for work.

[Claudine]

Re the HP - as thin as you appear in your photos I don't think that curve will work for you - it's really for someone with a 'tush'!!   I will be looking forward to seeing how it works for you - you're very good at fitting yourself.  Keep us posted!!

Perhaps it will make me look like I have a "tush".

[vtmartha]

I think I might try some of that Cone denim, Claudine.  I began wearing Levi's in the late 50's and I'm interested to see how it compares to that denim, or to what I think I can remember about it  .  Did you purchase it from the outfit in SF?  I'll have to figure out how much I need of 30" width.

[marciae]

Marta - after you do the math would you post it please - - no sense in all of us using any more brain matter than need be!!   I, too, thought - maybe I should have some cone denim - lord knows I've got every other type and color!!

[Claudine]

I think I might try some of that Cone denim, Claudine.  I began wearing Levi's in the late 50's and I'm interested to see how it compares to that denim, or to what I think I can remember about it  .  Did you purchase it from the outfit in SF?  I'll have to figure out how much I need of 30" width.

Yes, the vendor I bought it from was goldminesf.  I bought the lightest weight (the one with the yellow selvedge).  I was worried that it would be too heavy, but I need not have worried.  I'm sure the slightly heavier weights would have been fine, as well.

They shipped it same day, and shipping was included in the price.  The price per yard was fairly high, which is to be expected with a specialty item, but there were no hidden handling costs, which I like.

I bought 4 yards, but I could have gotten away with 3 for my size in the pattern that I used.

As far as I can tell, this is the same denim that jeans were made with 30 years ago.  There's a slight give to the fabric.  If you stretch it across grain, it actually does stretch a bit, which is what I remember about denim years ago.

[vtmartha]

I was thinking of buying the red.  It's a little heavier but also a few inches wider so they may be the same weight.  I was confused at first about which fabrics were Japanese and which were US fabrications.  I sent them an email and heard back right away that there were errors in the listing and he had now fixed them.  Now it's more obvious which is which.  This should be fun!

[Threads]

Is that the same vendor as Shuttle loom denim in San Francisco?  The prices didn't seem too bad, although with 30" width it might be tricky to figure the layout ahead of time.  In my size I wouldn't be able to fit both front and back pant legs across the width, so it could end up with wasted long bits down the fold.

On the other hand, compared to the $200 "7" jeans it looks like a bargain!

[vtmartha]

Threads, the photos say shuttle loom on them but the store is named goldminesf.com.  Here is their ebay site.  I gather they are some sort of marketing company.

[Padme]

Hello.  I'm new on this board, but I'm Padme on the Pattern Review board also.  I just can't do the same e on my laptop.  I'd like to follow along, but not join in this year.

[Threads]

I'm not ready to order yet, but it looks like you can buy it directly from the SF store and skip Ebay:
http://www.shuttleloomdenim.com/

[vtmartha]

Threads, I was thinking I would have to remember that site for next time when I got curious and decided to make a 'fake' purchase.  The price per yard was less, but the cost of shipping made it more.  The funny thing was that the paypal statement presented for approval listed goldminesf as the vendor. 

[Threads]

Probably just a different user name for Paypal/Ebay purposes.  What we need is a swatch set to pass around to investigate the different weights and colors! 

I would go up there because San Francisco is close, but I expect it is just a warehouse.

[Claudine]

I've mostly finished my jeans.  I just need to do hems and button loops.  This fabric is fantastic.  I had no desire to take the jeans off after I tried them on.  I have maybe 1.5 yds left, and I'm thinking perhaps I can get a pair of skinny jeans out of it.  If not, I'm thinking of buying a bit more to get another pair.

[Claudine]

Re the HP - as thin as you appear in your photos I don't think that curve will work for you - it's really for someone with a 'tush'!!   I will be looking forward to seeing how it works for you - you're very good at fitting yourself.  Keep us posted!!

Perhaps I should have heeded this warning.  I've finished my jeans, and I'm completely lukewarm about them.  I had a pair of trouser jeans that I bought at the Gap a couple of years ago, but they were so poorly made that they fell apart in a year or so.  The cut was fabulous on me, though.  I was hoping these trouser jeans would be the same, but they are not.  And they make my butt look really flat.

One strange thing about the pattern is that the legs are cut very wide and straight.  It might work better with a linen or something more drapey than a denim.  I ended up taking in the inseam by 2" on each leg (which is really a lot), tapering to nothing at the crotch, and they look better than they did.

Above the hip, the fit is great.
 
I took some photos of them today, but they did not come out well because the denim is so dark.  I don't even think I can motivate myself to blog about these jeans.

I love the fabric, though, and will make another pair using a Burda pattern.  Burda tends to fit me very well.

[marciae]

Bummer Claudine.  I've been waiting to see your results!  I made one pair - they fit - but - - I was quite lukewarm about them also.  I did wear them at the cabin alot but I won't make another pair!  But, I tend to be lukewarm about all HP patterns and so many folks look great and have good results with them.  If you make a 'sknny' pair of jeans - what pattern will you use?

[Padme]

  Sorry they didn't work out for you.  I was curious about the fit also.  I made a pair of red corduroy McCalls jeans in that same style, and I was lukewarm on them also. They didn't stay in my closet very long. The style did not compliment my butt either.  I didn't think to narrow the legs though.

[vtmartha]

Sorry those pants didn't work, Claudine, but I'm glad to know you have enough fabric to make more.  I'm hoping my fabric will arrive soon, although I haven't finished the pair I am working on now. 

I got distracted with the arrival of a new grandchild into the family.  He arrived two weeks early so I had a lot of sewing of little things to do in a hurry.  That package is in the mail so I should be back to the jeans with the hope of getting fitting advice from those who are willing to help.

[Threads]

I'm not sure if it counts as jeans, but for the holidays (a school event this weekend, actually) I am using my favorite jeans pattern to make a pair of cream colored satin pants.  The fabric has been around my stash for a long time - a very heavy satin in an unknown synthetic fiber.  Nice quality - I think it was in a grab bag from Michaels Fabrics once upon a time. 

To make the pants a little dressier I am skipping the back pockets, but decided a single line of top-stitching was really needed to keep the jeans-type structure.  I wanted the look and shape of front pockets but not much bulk, so I cut the pocket bags out of silk organza.  Tonight will be the big night when I get the side seams done and can see how it really looks. 

To be honest I find the satin to be incredibly annoying - it slips around, it's too heavy to stay put on the table, it requires zillions of pins and it frays like mad.  But it does have a great look, so I have my fingers crossed this will be worth the effort.

[Carole]

One of my favorite holiday outfits was a pair of jeans and a jeans jacket made out of dark purple satin with gold topstitching.  I've gained 30 pounds since then, I'm afraid.  I gave it to Goodwill.  Sob.

[marciae]

Threads - I hope you post a picture.  I'm trying to 'thnk' outside the box and do some fancy jeans - so far as 'fancy' as I've got is fancy denim!!  Carole - the purple sounds awesome!  I have some brown from Michaels that is a satiney type.  Need to mull this over a bit!!

[Threads]

I haven't been very good with pictures but promise to try.  Maybe DD will help out. 

I like the fit of jeans more than slacks, and particularly like the cut of this Jalie pattern (now OOP), which could almost be a sloper for me from the waist down. I have yet to find a pattern for other pants that fit this well - they always seem to have bulges in odd spots, or are several inches too short-waisted.

But jeans do require a certain firmness of fabric.  I've made the same pattern up in 5 different materials (if you count the satin), and the ones that look best have a thickness and weave to not wrinkle too much, and the strength to hold everything in around the hips and waist.  In fact, it is funny to see how the identical pattern looks completely different, depending on the fabric.  We shall see how the satin works - it  certainly has the weight and heft of denim, with no give whatsoever.  And if they don't work out - there is always velveteen as an alternative to denim!

[sdBev]

I'm not sure if it counts as jeans, but for the holidays (a school event this weekend, actually) I am using my favorite jeans pattern to make a pair of cream colored satin pants.  ..

Threads  I think this is a wonderful idea.  Denim is really the rage, but gitzy jeans for the holidays would be over the top!!!