Another jeans sew-along

[ejvc]

We had a jeans sew-along last autumn, as I recall, and it was really fun, and I personally have worn my jeans to death.  Robin asked me to start this thread for another sew-along after having some discussion of the J.Stern jeans pattern.  Anyway, all are welcome to join.  I'm starting my pair in October.  They'll be ordinary denim with red topstitching, and should be a great add on to my autumn collection.

Hope to see you here!

[DebbieY]

I don't think I have the skills needed to be part of this right now and I am still trying to get my Six Pack under control (and I do mean the Autumn sew along, not the beyond reach flat stomach although that would be nice), so this time I will watch from the sidelines, learning and cheering you all on.

[Hen]

I have jeans planned in my six-piece-autumn-collection, so this will be a good extra-support. However, I want to make the jeans as late as possible, because I just lost a bit of hip-circumference and want to see how stable that is.

[mom2five]

Great!  I just bought a jeans pattern... Actually it's my second jeans pattern, I just couldn't do anything with the first one so I'm hoping this one will go better.

[Robin]

yippee! 
Hey guess what, the Chantilly Sewing Expo is happening in Virginia this weekend.  Jennifer will have a booth there and I plan to stop by and say hello to her.
It will probably take all month to complete them, because I only have a little time on weekends.
But hey, it's better than NOT sewing a pair of jeans in October!

[MrsBean]

Are we using any pattern? I have the Jalie pattern I would like to use. If so, count me in.

[ejvc]

Some people are using the J. Stern jeans pattern.  I will be using a pattern printed in Ottobre Women's magazine.  Last year some people had nice results with the Sandra Betzina jeans pattern, and I think some people used Jalie as well.  So, feel free!

[Robin]

I sewed Sandra Betzina's jeans last year and really like the pattern and the jeans.  This year I am going to try J.Stern.  I know I will need alterations for fit, but I am feeling optimistic.  I recently sewed a muslin of simple BWOF pants and I got them to fit, so maybe I am learning how to "read" garments on me.

I went to the Sewing Expo today and met Jennifer at her booth.  She had brought along many versions of her jeans, t-shirts, a new shirt pattern, handbags.  I am kicking myself that I did not take more pictures.  One of her jean skirts was so tastefully embellished with machine embroidery - a truly amazing creation.

I think I am going to make my pants using tailor tacks as Ann Rowley describes in her Pearls of Wisdom folder.  Well, before I cut, I will measure myself and compare my measurements with the pattern pieces.  Then I will also compare J.Stern's pattern to the BWOF pattern I just mentioned.  Once I think the pattern is close, I will just go ahead and cut into some decent fabric.
Then I will baste the seams by hand and try on the pants.
I figure it is OK if my first pair are not amazingly perfectly polished.  Let's face it- they will be better than RTW and I'll do better on the next pair.

[ejvc]

I also recommend measuring a pair of existing, well-fitting jeans.  Or, measuring the well-fitting parts :-)

Elizabeth

[teddylyn]

I made some Jalie jeans a couple of months ago and wore them for the first time yesterday.  A winner in my book!  No photos, but here is a link to my old blog post

http://teddylyn.blogspot.com/2009/07/jalie-jeans-take-two.html

I really don't need more jeans for me, but might make a pair for my DGD who is always in need of more jeans.  This could be a fun sewing and embroidery project for her--just need to get the size right!  I am anxious to see everyone's projects.  Any suggestions for a source for the rivets used on pockets of RTW jeans?

Happy sewing!

Lynda in LV

[Lisa]

Hi Lynda!

Very pretty:



Would love to see them on you!

Lisa

[ejvc]

Hi Lynda, there was a source mentioned on the J.Stern jeans thread, in the Patterns and Instructions area.  This thread and that thread are in some sense parallel, which is a little confusing.

OK, just to fill you in: I am today wearing for the ten thousandth time my pair of brown Ottobre jeans that I made last year.  I love jeans, and I love brown jeans, and I ESPECIALLY like wearing jeans that fit.  You know why? Because they look better, but also because they don't wear out nearly as quickly!  They don't wrinkle (because they fit) and so the wrinkles don't rub together and make holes in the fabric.  These jeans have no weak spots on the inner thighs -- only the edges of the flat-felled seams are rubbing, and the top of the waistband just above the button.  Custom-made jeans both rock and rule.

My new "rock and rule" jeans are will be a relatively lightweight indigo denim, and they will have red topstitching and possibly some red gingham or red and white stripe accents.  I will modify the pattern slightly from the existing one, since I need to take off about 3/4 inches in crotch depth (I added 2 inches to the Otto pattern, and I think they are slightly too high on the waist) and adjust the shape of the yoke piece (it's too high also). I will baste everything together to check before I construct, so fabric differences should be corrected.  The current brown denim has a small stretch, whereas the new indigo denim is non-stretch.  I anticipate needing to add maybe 1/4" to the seams?  I'll cut the allowances wide.

[Threads]

I'll sew along!  I have been wearing my jeans from last year quite a bit, and just last night pulled out my Jalie patterns and some fabrics to think over a pair for this winter.  My jeans last year were from a Jalie pattern that I don't see on their website any more - they were high waisted and tapered leg. 

Now I want to try http://www.jalie.com/womens-jeans-mid-rise.html which is a lower and looser fit.  Not that I don't love the old pairs, but I am going to try and make these out of navy linen to see if I can get the flattering jeans cut/fit with pants that are work-suitable (with very toned down stitching details).  Given the looser weave of linen it seems to me that a more relaxed fit will be called for.

Part 2 may be a jeans jacket, although I am still staring at the pattern (also Jalie) http://www.jalie.com/jeans-jacket-pattern.html and thinking about how to attack it.  I don't really want a denim jacket, what I want is the look and fit of a jeans jacket in a more formal fabric, i.e. one of the many jacket weight wools crying out from my fabric stash.  Specifically, I have several gray wool/cashmere fabrics from Michaels that are relatively thick and soft, I would say jacket weight not coating.  The houndstooth might be the best bet for a jacket, and plain grays for skirts (in the end).

But I don't think I have seen a jacket that has quite the look I imagine, and I am not sure the wool has the right body to work in that style.  At the very least all the seam felling will have to be modified to accommodate the bulkier wool.  Plus itmight need a partial lining to keep it from being too grabby.  So for now, maybe it's best to focus on the pants.

[marciae]

How are all of you doing on the jeans sewalong.  Thought I'd bring this back up to tell  you - there's a new jean pattern out there!!   I received the ASG Notions publication and there's a half page add for Fashion Patterns by Coni (Connie Crawford) - she has a jean jacket and "sport" pants!!  I've used some of Connie Patterns - from her and they were fine.  The ones I've tried from Butterick I can't seem to be able to make them work.  I did notice these jeans come in some very small sizes - and very large sizes   NAYY  I'm still waiting on my Jansen jean pattern.  However, I won't start anything until next week.  We're going up this weekend to close up the cabin  -

[Katherine]

Marcia, I'm still back on the J Stern pattern!  I really don't need to hear about more.  I need to motivate myself.  It's kind of hard when you look at a pattern & realize it's nowhere close to your shape.

[marciae]

Yup - I know what you mean.  When I saw this add - I thought why me - I have the JS and I'm waiting on the Jansen and I have NO time to sew for a week!!   The JS is no where near my shape either - but if/when I do make it I'll probably just make sure I have enough room thru the hips, crotch, etc and make it that way and not do a lot of changes.  GiGi make a remark on one of the threads about the forward seam making her athletic thighs look smaller.  I'm afraid that the 'look' might not be that desirable on my 'mature' bod - but who knows.  Please get started on the JS so I can see it made up!!

[ejvc]

I have made about 7 or 8 pairs of trousers in the last 2 years, and I honestly believe you can make just about any pattern fit you, and I am not so concerned with the pattern specifically.  I mean I know some kinds of trousers do not look good on me (skinny jeans, for example, or pleats with tight ankles, or cropped trousers), but I could make those patterns fit me, if necessary.  I think side seams to the front or not is a design decision and needn't affect whether the trousers will fit you.

For me the MOST important measure is crotch depth (height from crotch to waist), and I typically need to add 1-2 inches so you can see why.  Others need to reduce, the measure is quite variable between people and between pattern companies.  So check it and alter at the pattern stage because it's difficult and horrible at the fabric stage. Then I recommend choosing your size based on your hip measure.  But add wide seam allowances at the sides, and I think make them especially big at the back and front crotch.  Nancy Erickson said in one of her newsletters that in her experience fitting hundreds of women in trousers, adding length at the back crotch and subtracting it at the back waist was the most common alteration.  Baste the pattern together, including the waistband.  I handbaste because it is easier to alter and to remove.  Take pictures.  If you need more room, add to the sides of the legs equally or you will distort the grain and the trouser legs will start to spin.

OK, now I will try to sew a pair of trousers and it will defeat me.

Elizabeth

[Robin]

OK, now I will try to sew a pair of trousers and it will defeat me.

Elizabeth

  funny! and I bet you won't be defeated.  I have seen your pants on the "What did you wear today" and they fit you very well.

I believe the most important thing in a jeans pattern is whether the pieces are drafted well and sew together correctly and the instructions tell you how to make it happen.  For simpler designs, I don't need instructions and I have TNT patterns.

And, when trying new patterns, I am learning to compare my measurements to the pattern,  as opposed to simply relying on the info on the back of the pattern envelope. (ask me how I know  )

Well, no one ever said sewing was easy!  We do it because we like the challenge, I daresay.

[Katherine]

Elizabeth, I agree with you that you can make any pattern fit you.  It's just a matter of how difficult that is.

The current style of jeans really make it all harder.  The closer you fit to the body, the harder it is.  These tight jeans are about as tight as it gets.  Sometimes I'm not even sure what my goal is!

Most jeans patterns have a really slanted CB seam.  Actually, all of the ones I've seen do.  That huge slant just doesn't work for me.  The problem is that slant is there to get the fabric on the bias so it stretches in wear.  Once I straighten it enough to get rid of the bags below the seat, I'm worried I won't be able to move in them because I've lost the bias.

Some of what makes my legs look good in those tight jeans is they act a bit like a girdle for your thighs.  I'm not sure I can make myself do that in something I've sewn myself.

Katherine

[Patti B]

Good luck, Elizabeth! Just a comment about the JS jeans/womens version -- yes, the front is smaller than the back. But -- the side seam is where it should be (at least on me) and doesn't appear to be forward to the naked eye. I'm definitely going to sew these again but will be very interested in how the Trudy Jansen jeans look. I honestly never had any desire to sew jeans; truly I would rather buy them. But since I can't find RTW that I don't have to yank up to the waist every few minutes, I think I see more jeans making in my future.

[Threads]

I've been losing weight and honestly the only pants that still fit me well are the jeans-cut (not made in denim) pants I made last year from a Jalie pattern.  They definitely have a slanted CB seam, and are higher-waisted than most of what is in the stores these days, which may be why they still fit (also they were on the tight side before).  In fact, it took me forever to get dressed this morning because I kept trying on pants from the closet and rejecting them, and trying on another pair and rejecting them . . . the discard pile is quite high compared to the "acceptable to wear" pile. 

But I have to take a sewing detour (again) this weekend to make a fringed faux suede jacket so the DS can represent Lewis and Clark in history class.  I should have a gallery of all the costume jackets I made for him over the years!

[MrsBean]

I have finally traced and cut out my Jalie 2908 Jeans. I am using the higher rise version, View B. I am long from waist to crotch and hope to avoid some 'muffin top' as well. I never wear anything tucked in to my jeans so no one will know if they are unfasionably high waisted (I hope).

I added 2cm to the side seams when cutting out for fitting insurance, in case my denim is not as stretchy as it is supposd to be. It has some give but not a lot.

How is everyone else doing?

Michele

[marciae]

Still waiting on my TJ pattern..... maybe it will get here today??  I've not tried the Jalie pattern (and here I thought I'd tried them all ).  What type/color of fabric are you using?

[Claudine]

I've been thinking of making a pair of jeans, but I can't find the fabric I want.  Does anyone know where I can buy  Cone denim?  http://www.conedenim.com/home.html.  Either online or in NYC.  I think it would be fun to have a pair of jeans made from "real" denim.

[jem]

I think I am sort getting the idea of fit with a pair of slacks that I am making. What I am not sure about is slant.  How do you know if you need to make the crotch curve slanted or staight.?  What are yhou supposed to look for? Is the crotch curve the same for slacks and jeans? In other words if you use a slanted curve for one will you use a slanted curve for the other? If you need a slant how do you determine how much of a slant to make? I am sure this is the part that hangs me up when making pants, because I am not sure what to do with crotch. I hope this makes sense/  THanks for the help

J

[marciae]

J - Maybe someone can answer your question better then me - - but - - I like my jeans to fit like my slacks - only tighter - if that makes sense.  I don't like to see the seam in the back and the back fit extremely tight under the buttocks.  If I wanted that I'd wear purchased jeans.  So I use the same crotch curve as my slacks but sew a generous  - 5/8 seam - - or whatever your pattern calls for.  What pattern are you using for your pants - - and what pattern do you plan on using for your jeans?

[Katherine]

Jem, a lot depends on the style of your jeans.  Recently there have been some nice trouser style jeans.  They fit more like your regular pants.  The tight ones like the Jalie stretch jeans or the J Stern ones fit really tight.  They have more slant in the CB seam.

I dug out my copy of Jan Minott's book Skirts & Pants Patterns because the J Stern pattern is giving me fits.  One page talks about turning your regular pants pattern into jeans.  She refers to the slant as the wedge.  You slash across the back pattern from center to side seam, but not through the side seam & open the wedge 1/2" to 1".  The you slash the front & close the wedge 1/2".  The other adjustment is to shorten the crotch extensions.  The back shortens 1/2" to 1", & the front shortens 1/4" to 1/2".  The front moves up the curve, which raised the front crotch depth.

The harder part of your question is determining what slant is right for you.  In general, a flat seat has a straighter CB & a fuller one more slant.  Posture comes into it too.  Minott identifies 3 posture types.  Average, tilted hips forward & tilted hips back.  Tilted forward has the seat lower.  The waist in front is higher than the back, measured waist to floor.   Tilted back has the waist higher than the front.  Tilted back has a lot of slant in the CB.  In trousers, tilted forward has a straight CB.

Here is a link to the book:

http://minottmethod.com/

I nearly gave up on the J Stern pattern yesterday.  I look like a stuffed sausage.  I’ll work on it a bit more today, & if I still look like a stuffed sausage, I’m abandoning that pattern & moving on to this Burda one:

http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Patterns/Main_Collection/7738_Pants_trousers/1270778-1128998-1426185-1651048.html

It’s probably more realistic for someone my age & body type.  Hip curves, dancer’s thighs & well developed calf muscles don’t seem to work well with tight jeans.

The fabric I’m using for the muslin is really rigid.  It’s mystery fabric from some assortment.  The legs are so tight that I can barely walk in them.  Denim will be more forgiving, but not much!

[jem]

Well right now I am trying to perfect the Hot Patterns Planin and Simple Everday Pants.  I think I fingured out the crotch curve, but the pants are not totally finished.  I supposed I could try this pattern as a Jeans pattern.  I have not bought regular pants in such a long time, that I am not even sure the proper way pants are supposed to fit. I just retired from teaching, I tought very young kids, so I did not exactly wear the most expensive pants to work. Now I ready to dress like a grownup in some decent look pants and jeans. Haha that's is pretty funny isn't it. You would think that at my age I would know that. As far as jeans, I am not sure how they are supposed to fit either.  I don't want to look like a sausage, but I don't want them too baggy eiither. Just turned 60 (ugh)  and I consider myself youthful, so I want to look instyle but not rediculous.  I will check out that site.  THanks.  Any other suggestions would be welcomed.

[marciae]

Why don't you try on some RTW jeans - Lee and Wrangler Aria are a good place to start - and they're quiet reasonable.  As for HP - Lots of folks have great luck with them - I'm not one of them - I finally gave up on HP!!

[jem]

Well, I would not exactlysay I have had alot of luck either.with HP.  ALthough the pattern indicates measurements that match mine to a tee, with the help of a friend who is a seamstress we modified the pattern. Even with all the modifications still not a desired fit. So after reading all my sewing books on alterations I figured out or should I say took a leap of faith on what had to still be modified. Now these pants are starting to look almost how I want them. Still going to try to tweak them just a bit more.  I am afraid to do too much because then I just know I will botch them up.  I am also waiting for Trudy Jansen patterns.  I thought I would start with her pants first. If they work then I will try the jeans.  ANyway, thanks for the suggestions. I am determined to get this right. 

[Katherine]

Jem, if you are struggling with the  whole thing, why don't you try a Burda pattern & a Vogue pattern.  One will probably fit better than the other with less fussing.  Once you figure out which one is better, stick with that company for a while to make things easy.

I like Burda best.  Their drafting from one pattern to the next is fairly consistent, so once you figure out the alterations you need, it almost always works.

Are you working with your final fabric, or are you making a muslin?  If you are working with you final fabric, I'd get them to the point where you are willing to wear them.  Then make a muslin.  You can draw on it, cut it etc.  If you mess up the back, you can just recut that & use the existing front.  Use the longest stitch you can that will hold them together to make ripping easy.  This is the place for your weak thead too.  Whatever you have.

It's worth the persistance.

Katherine

[marciae]

On the "Winter Vogue" thread, Marji posted a pic of a burda/vogue overlay - - Vogues are now fairly close to burda.  Vogues are on sale today and tomorrow on their website.

[Robin]

I have decided not to sew any more jeans. 
In my image consultation (with Imogen Lamport- she has a blog called Inside Out Style) I learned that I should wear "quiet" bottoms, and save my fancier sewing for tops and jackets.
So maybe I'll do a jean jacket or a military-inspired jacket with epaulets.

[marciae]

I received my TJ pattern today - - I love the look and style.  The side seam is 3/4in forward, contoured wb - I hope to get it traced tomorrow.  I also posted on the TJ pattern site.

[MrsBean]

I started sewing up my jeans yesterday. Once I started I could not stop. I have completed them up to sewing the side seams. I have taken a 1/2 inch seam at the sides and tried them on last night. They seemed to fit great. I will try them on again today before finalising the seam and adding the waistband.

The jeans were easy enough to sew. I was initially intimidated but now i am wondering why I was so retcient. Making them has seemed to kick start my sewing mojo. Now I can't wait to finish them off tonight.

I have used a medium to lightweight stretch, darkish blue denim. I am using Superior 'King Tut' 100% cotton quiling thread for my topstitching. (Yes, I am a quilter) The colour is called Flax. I am very happy with how it looks on the jeans. I am charging up my camera to take some pictures...

Michele