Author Topic: underlining silk dupioni  (Read 4133 times)

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Offline LizGo

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underlining silk dupioni
« on: September 01, 2009, 07:58:48 PM »
I intend to make a pair of slim pants from silk dupioni.  I'm considering my choices for underlining: silk organza, cotton/silk, or fusible.  Any suggestions or recommendations?

Offline Surfer

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2009, 09:33:19 PM »
My experience with underlining silk dupion with silk organza for a pair of slim pants was a disaster. The outcome was a pants like for a Michelin man tier add.
So I removed the silk organza but left the parts where the front and back darts were sewn. I used strips of fusible woven interfacing at the seam allowances just a bit wider so the stitchingline was covered too, to prevent any tearing at the seams. This was the best solution for a nice pair of slim pants.

Offline LizGo

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2009, 10:10:25 PM »
Ahhh...never thought of that.  Sounds like a plan.  I think silk dupioni has enough body to make a nice pair of pants, I was concerned with the seams pulling.  Plain ole'
Mettler all purpose thread works too?

Offline Surfer

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2009, 10:13:38 PM »
I used Guterman thread and the main problem which can happen to sew dupion is shredding or torn seams so that's why I used the strips of fusible interfacing to stabilize the seams and to prevent any tearing.

Offline fzxdoc

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2009, 12:19:25 AM »
I've underlined several pairs of slim silk doupioni pants with silk organza. I did so to prevent the doupioni from wrinkling.

Only once (out of half a dozen pairs, at least) did I run into a problem: in one pair the silk organza shredded after several wearings. I was so unhappy! It was a black pair, the organza was black, and was not from the reputable source that I usually get my silk organza. Apparently black dye weakens silk fibers more than any other color, and that may have been the problem.

I have always washed and pressed the silk organza before using it for underlining slim silk doupioni pants. That softens the silk organza a great deal, at least in my experience.

Els (surfer), I like your idea of reinforcing the seams on silk doupioni pants with fusible strips. I will definitely use that idea on my next pair. It sound like good insurance for pants that get a lot of wear especially.

Kathryn

Offline LizGo

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2009, 12:58:23 AM »
Kathyrn - I bought that gingham dupioni you told me about.  What a great site!  I never would have thought to look for fabric in a place called "Farmhouse Fabric".  To me that sounds like a quilting site.  They have lots of great trims too.  Now all I need is time...... ::)

Offline vtmartha

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2009, 11:58:28 AM »
I've shopped at Farmhouse Fabrics before but only for children's things.  Now I know the place to go for silk doupioni.  I seem to recall that Sandra Betzina likes to make dupioni pants and also used organza underlining.  I've been wanting to make a pair myself as I love to wear slim pants but I don't think I have the appropriate tops.  Do you wear a tailored blouse with yours, Kathryn?  What is your trusted source for organza?  And, Els, thanks so much for the information on reinforcing the seams.

Offline Carole

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2009, 01:35:56 PM »
Yes, but where's an inexpensive (online) place for silk organza?  I seem to spend more for that than the fashion fabric.

Offline Elona

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2009, 03:54:24 PM »

Offline LauraS.

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2009, 05:39:39 PM »
Carole, not too long ago I ordered my first 11 yard (I think) bolt of white organza from Dharma.  I think the pricing was very reasonable.  I've already used it to underline a couple of dresses in the making.

laura

Offline fzxdoc

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2009, 11:46:40 PM »
I love both Dharma Trading Co's and Thai Silks' silk organzas.  Thai Silks has it in several colors which is nice, but honestly it dyes so easily that I'd rather get plain vanilla from Dharma and dye it myself.  I use Dyelon dye from Hancock Fabrics. Couldn't be easier--just pour the stuff in a bucket of water and poke the silk in, wait, pull it out and wash.  There are some great simple silk-friendly dyes at www.silkthings.com, too, that I have used and like.

Anyway, I have split bolts from Dharma with friends on a large order of silk organza.  You sure can't beat the price.  I go through the stuff pretty regularly, so buying by the bolt is not a problem.

Martha, I wear knit tops, sweaters or tailored blouses with my silk doupioni pants--pretty much anything that I would wear with any pair of pants.  Since I don't wear jeans much (only on hikes with DH) my doupioni pants get a workout. I have a TNT Burda pattern that I have often used for them.

Oh, and as a point of clarification, the slim pants that I have where the silk organza underlining shredded were wool underlined with black silk organza. I've underlined with black silk organza before and since, but that particular piece came from a vendor with whom I no longer do business anyway. Lesson learned I guess.  :)

ETA: Here's a link with info about Dylon dyes:  Dylon Fabric Dye for Hand Use

Kathryn
« Last Edit: September 02, 2009, 11:53:39 PM by fzxdoc »

Offline TraceyG

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2009, 12:00:46 AM »
I plan to make a jacket, skirt and slim pants in silk dupioni, from a Vogue pattern.  I have not sewed with silk dupioni before.  I have learned a lot already just from reading what you all are doing.  If the jacket is loose fitting, do you still recommend underlining with organza?  Is it something you should just always do with dupioni?  Can anyone recommend a book or article that will give me more information about sewing with silk dupioni?  I know lots of questions, but inquiring minds need to know! 

Offline fzxdoc

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #12 on: September 03, 2009, 12:15:56 AM »
Tracey, here are a couple of links to silk doupioni sewing guides:

Shannon Gifford's instructions on Emmaonesock site

Pacific Fabrics and Crafts sewing guide

Silk Baron's FAQs

Also, Sandra Betzina's More Fabric Savvy book is a good source as is Claire Shaeffer's Sew Any Fabric.

HTH,
Kathryn

Offline TraceyG

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #13 on: September 03, 2009, 12:23:39 AM »
Thanks, Kathryn.  I will look them up. 

Tracey

Offline vtmartha

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #14 on: September 03, 2009, 01:22:33 AM »
Thanks for the information, Kathryn.  I'm glad to know I purchase my organza from the proper place.  I realized when I saw Birgitte's blog this morning that a blouse like hers would be perfect with the pants I imagine.  Of course, I'd need the metallic clogs - gold for me  ;) - to make it all work.

Offline fzxdoc

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #15 on: September 06, 2009, 01:52:45 PM »
Oh, I agree, Martha. That blouse is wonderful!

Kathryn

Offline LindaNan

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #16 on: September 10, 2009, 03:17:49 AM »
Kathryn, wrt Dylon dye, you said, " Couldn't be easier--just pour the stuff in a bucket of water and poke the silk in, wait, pull it out and wash.
I'm confused.  Are you saying no boiling, salt or stirring, or is this wishful thinking on my part.

LindaNan

Offline fiberfan

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #17 on: September 10, 2009, 08:51:37 PM »
Kathryn, wrt Dylon dye, you said, " Couldn't be easier--just pour the stuff in a bucket of water and poke the silk in, wait, pull it out and wash.
I'm confused.  Are you saying no boiling, salt or stirring, or is this wishful thinking on my part.

I am not Kathryn but I have learned a bit about dyeing silk.  Silk will dye with dyes normally used for cellulose fibers like the fiber reactive dyes in the Dylon dyes sold at Joann's and Walmart.  Silk will also dye with the dyes used for protein fibers.  The benefit to the fiber reactive dyes is that most work at room temps, no heating is required.  Stirring is never required for dyeing but the more the textile is moved the more even the color will be.  The most common reason to use salt when dyeing is to assist in more level dyeing.  There are 2 potential drawback to using fiber reactive dyes with silk.  Some colors will shift on silk and the colors will tend to be less intense/deep on silk.  Most of the fabric in the picture in this old blog post are silk, all are dyed with fiber reactive dyes the same as or similar to Dylon.  Even with the protein dyes, I have seen several recommendations that the dye bath be simmered not boiled as boiling may result in less shine.
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Offline fzxdoc

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #18 on: September 10, 2009, 11:58:25 PM »
I am certainly not a dyeing expert. As a once-upon-a-time chemistry major, I know all too well some of the damage that dyes can do to us (as in our skin and respiratory passages) and to fabric.  That's why I leave real dyeing to dye experts. They really know their stuff!

But having used Dyelon with silk organza and china silk on many an occasion, I have to say it made me a believer. It worked just fine for my (relatively undemanding) demands and needs.  :)

Kathryn

Offline LindaNan

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #19 on: September 11, 2009, 12:48:00 AM »
Thank you both.  I can't wait to try this on my lining (habotai) from Thai Silks.  First I need to find out if our local Walmart carries it.  If not, this will be a mail order.
Linda

Offline fiberfan

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #20 on: September 11, 2009, 04:27:05 AM »
Thank you both.  I can't wait to try this on my lining (habotai) from Thai Silks.  First I need to find out if our local Walmart carries it.  If not, this will be a mail order.
Linda
The Walmart close to me has the Dylon dye in the craft section and the RIT dye (not recommended without heat) in the laundry section so you might want to check both areas.  If you are going to mail-order it is probably less expensive to buy procion mx or cibracon f and the required soda ash (included in the Dylon).  Both dyes are fiber reactive cellulose dyes like Dylon but cost per yard of fabric is much less.  The reason I recommend Dylon is a convenience as it includes the soda ash and can often be purchased locally.  If you have a swimming pool you may already have soda ash since it is frequently used to raise the ph.

To avoid mail order, check your local hobby stores as well.  Some of the 'tie-dye' dyes sold at some hobby stores are a fiber reactive dye that will dye silk.  You want dye that reqiures soda ash aka sodium carbonate.  Either the soda ash will be included or it will be sold separately.  Also you might have a local art store that carries Jacquard's procion mx dyes and the required soda ash.

My favorite site with great info about dyeing is Paula Burch's all about Hand Dyeing.  If you don't want a solid color lining, check out Low Water Immersion (LWI) dyeing that can yield wonderful results with no stirring.  Most of the LWI pictures I have seen use multiple colors but my favorite LWI results are a single color.

One warning, dyeing can be habit forming  ;)  The summer of 2006 I dyed at least 20 yards of cotton, silk and rayon fabric, a bunch of t-shirts and 20+ small silk scarves I bought for $0.25.  I have continued to dye fabric but I find time for other hobbies instead of spending almost all my hobby time dyeing like I did that summer.
Joanne - So Many Ideas, So Much Fiber, So Little Time

joy and gladness shall be found therein, thanksgiving, and the voice of melody. Isaiah 51:3

Offline LindaNan

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #21 on: September 11, 2009, 06:33:15 AM »
Thank you fiberfan.  I will try all your suggestions.  I guess I didn't explain why I expected trouble finding the dylon.  You see, Lucky I live Maui and Maui No Ka Oi (Is The Best) ---- except for sewing fabrics, notions, thread, trimming, etc.  I do have a wonderful quilt shop in near me in Kihei, and the prices are fair.  Everything else is catch as catch can and bring money.

Online shopping is key for me, but shipping charges can be prohibitive.  All those free shipping offers exclude Hawaii and Alaska.  Whenever sewing friends go to the mainland, we send each other off with swatches and shopping lists.

It isn't all bleak.  There are two shops in Kahului that carry some lovely silks and cottons, just not at Kashi's prices. :-X  Speaking of Kashi, I was in NYC in June and came home with a 22" carry-on crammed full with his goodies, including 5m of Soltstiss lace. ;D

I suppose I should stop lurking and start posting projects.

Linda

Offline stashpanache

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Re: underlining silk dupioni
« Reply #22 on: September 11, 2009, 06:51:12 AM »
Quote
I suppose I should stop lurking and start posting projects.

Linda

What a great idea!
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