Sewing Chiffon on the bias

[MarthaR55]

Hi all.  I'm brand new on this site.  I just found it by doing a search on sewing chiffon on the bias.  I found some info but need a little more.  Looks like y'all know so much (yes, I'm from the South but don't hold that against me).  Background on me: Was a computer programmer for 29 years, started quilting in 2003 (learned to sew in high school & loved it but stopped in college).  Went back to sewing clothes again & when I lost my job, decided (with blessing of my DH) to go back to school for fashion design (in my 50's, am I crazy?).  Have a great school & just finished my first year in the program.  Learned tons from my wonderful sewing teacher.  I did sew a chiffon (poly) skirt but the technique I learned won't work for bias.  I was taught to pull the fabric a little at the front & back so the fabric won't bunch.  It worked great on the straight of grain but I certainly can't do that on the bias.  So far, the only thing I've figured out is to hand baste the seams before sewing & then I could pull on it some.  BTW,  my machine doesn't come with a single needle plate, I have to move the needle to the far right so 3 sides are controlled.

Also, the dress will be lined but I'm concerned about the neckline which is a princess neckline.  I'm also double layering the chiffon and lining with china silk, but I think I need to interface it to make sure the neckline will stay in place properly.  I read something in Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques about using the selvage as a stay & was thinking about doing that. Any suggestions for a good way to handle this. 
Thanks so much to you all.

[BeeBee]

I can't help you with the bias sewing, but you can put a piece of tape over your throat plate hole to reduce the size.  Just put a small piece on there and sew.  The needle will puncture the hole it needs on the first down.  And your fabric won't get sucked into the bobbin area.  When you want to zz, take it off. (and if you forget, no big deal)
And welcome to SG

[Liana]

I think you're on the right track with the hand basting.  It's probably your best choice, and you say it's working well, so that's good.  Try a shorter stitch length if you're having trouble with puckering, although you shouldn't after you've basted.   2 layers of silk chiffon and then china silk sounds like a recipe for slip-sliding away, so the basting is probably saving your sanity, even if it seems slow.  Lots better than ripping machine stitches that went wrong.    I guess I'm assuming this is silk chiffon?  It's been a while since I've sewn any, but I know I did french seams since I was doing an unlined blouse.

The selvedge is what I'd try for stabilizing the neckline.  There isn't anything else that will be so invisible, and the selvedge is generally very strong on chiffon.

I agree with BeeBee on the hole in the tape if your fabric is getting sucked into the bobbin area.

Glad you found us, and it sounds like you've been able to search and find info on chiffon.  I know there's been quite a bit now and then.

You may already know that this board has lots of neat features that you will want to try.  If you have any questions or need help with anything, just ask the Administrators or Moderators.

There are a couple of threads that may be of interest to you as you look around the site, and which can truly answer almost any question about how to post things here, including photos and avatars and signature links.

The "Are You New, Please Read This Thread First" is a good place to start, and

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And there's the ever-popular Sandbox where you can try out all the features, and which is a very easy place to get help or have questions answered when you can't quite get it from the FAQ.

There's also a very good Search feature, and you'll get the best results if you use the Advanced Search button.

Again, welcome, and it's great to have you here! 

[MarthaR55]

Thanks to both of you.  Wonderful info. 

Bebe, the tape sounds like a perfect idea.  Fantastic and thanks.

Liana,  its just a poly chiffon, not silk & the store calls the lining china silk but it really isn't, it's just manmade to feel like silk.  I have worked with them both before, just not on the bias. 
Also, thanks for the info on the site, now I just need to find the time to get to know it better.  Sounds like a new home on-line to me! 

I'll get pics posted when I get the dress done, hopefully in the next week or two.  I plan on sewing up the muslin tonight or finish it tomorrow. 

[DeniseM]

Here's a tip that I picked up right here somewhere on SG. When you go to cut your fabric, place a sheet of either thin tissue or a grid pattern fabric on the top, pin your pattern to this, and use serrated scissors to cut. I only sew with silk chiffon but I wish I'd had this info before cutting into it because any chiffon is squirrely and this gives it stability.

[MarthaR55]

Thanks Denise.  Yes, my teacher did teach us how to pin on paper to cut.  I used it for silk charmeuse (sp?) and it worked great.

I also wanted to let y'all know of another thing my teacher taught that I haven't seen posted here, invisible seams for shear fabrics:
sew a seam the regular way, trim the seam allowance down to 1/8" & then zig-zag from just the right of the seam stitches & off of the fabric.  You have to test the width but it makes a completely invisible seam.  I plan on using that for my dress.  The only problem I'll have is that the fabric is multicolored & the thread will show in the lighter areas.  Of course, I'll test first to see if its feasible to do it this way, but it's a strong but can't been seen seam.

[Ms. Fine Fabrics]

I can't help you with the bias sewing, but you can put a piece of tape over your throat plate hole to reduce the size.  Just put a small piece on there and sew.  The needle will puncture the hole it needs on the first down.  And your fabric won't get sucked into the bobbin area.  When you want to zz, take it off. (and if you forget, no big deal)
And welcome to SG

What a great suggestion!

[Ms. Fine Fabrics]

Thanks Denise.  Yes, my teacher did teach us how to pin on paper to cut.  I used it for silk charmeuse (sp?) and it worked great.

I also wanted to let y'all know of another thing my teacher taught that I haven't seen posted here, invisible seams for shear fabrics:
sew a seam the regular way, trim the seam allowance down to 1/8" & then zig-zag from just the right of the seam stitches & off of the fabric.  You have to test the width but it makes a completely invisible seam.  I plan on using that for my dress.  The only problem I'll have is that the fabric is multicolored & the thread will show in the lighter areas.  Of course, I'll test first to see if its feasible to do it this way, but it's a strong but can't been seen seam.

Wow! I'm working on a silk chiffon dress - 3-layers of different colors - that will tier away on the bias. I'll be posting my progress on my blog. I generally do French seams with chiffon, but with 3-layers, I think there will be too much bulk. I was thinking of sewing two rows, 1/8" apart, then trimming to a small seam, but I'll give your technique a test, and if it works, I'll use it on my dress.

Welcome.

[DeniseM]

Martha, I am trying to visualize that seam technique but can't. Can you post a photo or further explanation? I work with silk chiffon a lot and would love to try that technique. I usually French seam things but sometimes it's not the best finish and this sounds interesting.

[Liana]

This seam sounds a lot like the invisible seam for sheers that Kenneth King has in his Cool Couture book

[MarthaR55]

I've read that but what I learned was a whole lot easier, but slightly similar.  I'm trying to get a battery for my camera so I can take a picture of my sample so I can show y'all.

[PeggyLynn]

Liana - Are you referring to the overlap seam in King's book or something different?

Martha - I'm very much looking forward to see the pix of your simpler solution.

I used some YLI #100 silk thread to do scant French 1/8" seams on a single layer silk chiffon overlay. It surprised me at how much difference the lighter weight thread made in reducing the seam bulk. However, I would be leery of using it for any type of seam that would take a lot of stress even though the thread is surprisingly strong given its light weight.

Edited to clarify I used French seams, not plain seams!

[Ms. Fine Fabrics]

Liana - Are you referring to the overlap seam in King's book or something different?

Phew! That overlap seam is a process. I understood Martha to mean something like this: Stitch the 1/8" seam, then over that seam zig-zag, overlapping the seam and the seam edge, making a sort of light weight faux overlock, which makes a seam with intermittent zig zag points, that are supported by the 1/8" seam, and finished by sewing over.

Didn't get a chance to try it yet. I'm still working on the 4-ply underdress. I got distracted cleaning my sewing room at home. I'm going to be needing to work into the evening to finish my dress before the 1st.

Martha, Look forward to seeing clarification

[Liana]

PeggyLynn,  I think that is the one I was thinking of, although I agree with Susanne that it's quite the process, and one I'd be unlikely to do, at least in that particular way.    I can't find my book right now, but I think that's the one.

Martha, as I read your description more carefully, it sounds like you sew the seam, trim the allowance down to 1/8", then zigzag from the stitching line, or just to the right (SA side) of it off the edge of the allowance.  I'm looking forward to your pictures too, to see if I'm guessing right. 

[MarthaR55]

Liana, You've got it right.  I still haven't gotten the pics yet.  My DH has to teach me how to turn off the flash or we can't see anything but junk in the pic

[DeniseM]

I'm assuming you do not iron the seam open but both edges of the seam are together, folded to ones side and zig zag? Do you zig zag onto the main fabric or do you let the zig zag act like a surged edge? I have Cool Couture so I'll look it up but so far I can't visualize it.

[MarthaR55]

Hi Denise, I'm so sorry I haven't been able to get the pic out yet, but I will later today.  Let's see if I can write instructions better
1) Sew a regular seam with the SA as you want it.
2) Fix stitches but don't iron seam open
3) Trim both SA's to 1/8"
4) Set zig-zag to appx 1 width, will need a shorter length of stitch but will have to test it to keep the seam from being too stiff (too many stitches)
5) Stitch just on the SA's side of the seam with the right side of the stitch going just off the fabric.   This will give it a look like a rolled hem but not covered by the thread as much.  I promise I'll get pics out of the steps today. 

This thrills me to no end that you are all interested & that I've learned something (thanks to a wonderful sewing teacher) that you don't know.  Kind of gives me hope that I'm going in the right direction.

[Ms. Fine Fabrics]

Got it! Its just a moderate-to-tight zig zag seam finish, like we did before home sergers. With 2 threads, much lighter weight than what the serger will give. I use this technique, stretching a bit, to flute hems on chiffon. 

[MarthaR55]

You're right, Ms Fine Fabrics.  BTW, I've seen your store on line & the fabrics are to die for.  Wish I could afford them.

[Liana]

For a really lightweight finish, I imagine the finer silk thread (or any fine thread) would be even lighter.  

Martha,  I'm really glad I guessed right!   

[AmyH]

Martha, I'll just add a few ideas for sewing chiffon on the bias.  Poly chiffon when cut on the bias will grow.  The fabric stretches, and you'll end up with puckered seams. I would suggest that you baste, then sew, as planned, but allow time for fabric to relax first.  Usually, it is recommended that you hang a bias garment to allow growth before hemming, but I have found that I have better results if I allow all edges to relax before sewing.  I cut out, then remove pattern pieces, then hang each piece by clipping with a clothes pin to a wire hanger.  Hang them all up for a day or two, then make your garment.  Seems like this lets the fabric relax a bit.  I usually give them a little spray of starch if the fabric can handle it without staining.  With chiffon, the fabric is light enough that you shouldn't have a change in fit by hanging, but it may require a bit of extra care in the fit process.  Just my thought...

[dscheidt]

RTW chiffon has fusible interfacing on any seams that are likely to stretch during sewing.  You need a really light weight fusible to not make it look like a board.  Your local suppliers may not have anything suitable.

[MarthaR55]

That is great info.  Thanks to both of you. 

[MarthaR55]

OK, I got the pics & loaded them & they are too big & I don't know how to make them smaller.  Any suggestions?  The pics aren't that great, BTW

[MarthaR55]

OK, DH helped again after I asked him.  He assumed I knew what I was doing. 
 I could not get a decent pic of the final piece, it was too blurry or couldn't get any detail so I chose blurry.  Sorry about that. 

[DeniseM]

AHA!!! It's so simple. And it looks really pretty. Thanks for the pics - they really helped.

[MarthaR55]

Thanks Denise.  Anytime I think of anything else that y'all might be interested in, I'll post it.

[Liana]

Pictures really do make things clear, don't they?    Thanks for persevering, Martha, and thanks to your DH, too! 

[Ms. Fine Fabrics]

Used the zig - zag technique to finish seam transitioning chiffon to organza under a beaded lace. Didn't take a picture of the seam, but I don't think you can see it here and its right under the beaded lace and its silk organza underline. The center diagonal seam is the only one finished so far and the seam doesn't show!

[DeniseM]

Gorgeous lace. You are fortunate to have such beautiful lace available to you. I love lace but have no idea where I'd where it.

[MarthaR55]

That's gorgeous!

[mardel]

Oh those colors really do make the lace shine!