Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I second that Lisa..your ABO looks wonderful. I love the collar standing up...it gives such a pretty frame to the face. It doesn't need to be buttoned at the neck if you don't want..if left unbuttoned, it turns into a wing collar.

Well, I'm back home for a minute and a half. Webboy just left so the website is now current...almost...but current as far as it needs to be. The broadcast Newsletter has just gone out so you should be receiving it shortly.

I have unpacked...again almost...washed clothes, dried clothes and will repack tomorrow...get the teaching samples back in order and head for Grand Rapids on Thursday.

I saw some of my favorite ladies at Eunice Farmers Fine Fabrics in St Louis last weekend...if you have not been to her fabric store for awhile...it truely is a treat. I showed some of the ladies in class the Super 120 black wool for $39.95 that should have been sold for $139.95...they are now trying to get more for other ladies who are in need . I believe they swatch and I know they have a website.

Well, I just heard a 'click' so I just received my  own newsletter. I have tons of stuff to do in a short amount of time...the plane was late getting in yesterday and with not taking my laptop with me, I have so many e-mails to answer and spam to clear. I still have to look through spam every day...if someone wants to ask questions about the One-Seam Pants...and uses the word 'crotch' it ends up in my spam!!!

 well, till later, Louise

 

[Alice in Bama]

LOUISE

 DID YOU MAKE A PAPERDOLL TO GO WITH THE NEW PATTERN WE CAN ORDER IF WE ALREADY HAVE THE PACKAGE OF PAPERDOLLS.

LISA I LIKE YOUR JACKET TOO WHERE YOU GET YOUR MATERIAL?

ALICE

[Lisa Laree]

LISA I LIKE YOUR JACKET TOO WHERE YOU GET YOUR MATERIAL?

It came from the table of upholstery remnants at Hancock's!  I got it in May, just because I liked it; I had no idea big houndstooth would be such a fashion item this fall....

[LOUISE CUTTING]

DID YOU MAKE A PAPERDOLL TO GO WITH THE NEW PATTERN WE CAN ORDER IF WE ALREADY HAVE THE PACKAGE OF PAPERDOLLS.

Not yet, I haven't been off the road long enough to get the fronts blown up into proportion with all the other pattern fronts. I will send out a newletter e-mail to let everyone know who purchased the 'paper dolls' that the next set of 'fronts' are available. I already have another pattern in the works, so I might wait until it is ready and then I can send out both sets.

Well, I have a list to do today...starting with filling orders, orders, orders...but at 10am I have a conference call with the other contributing editors for Threads...always a great time to talk to everyone else. Sometimes we see each other at shows, but even then we don't get out of our cage...oh, booth. .


Then it is off to pack and put the samples back in order for this weekend. I'm trying to get everything done today so I might have a bit of time tomorrow to play and snoop shop. till later, Louise 

[Alice in Bama]

louise

Do you ever sleep 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I was reading the Sunday paper this morning (at 5am) and no, I don't sleep , but I wanted to let you know about  2 new books that were reviewed about the House of Chanel. One, a beautiful picture book of her collections over the years and the other is a novel with wonderful details of a seamstress working at the House in the 1920s.

I though you would enjoy taking a look. I checked and both are available on Amazion. Below is what was in the editorial about the two books. Well, it is back to work for me...till later, Louise

The Collection: A Novel by Gioia Diliberto

Excerpts from Publishers Weekly
Set in the glamorous couture house of Chanel of post-WWI Paris, the author delves into a Europe inching its way back to caring about fashion. Following the death of her fiancé and family, fictitious 22-year-old seamstress Isabelle Varlet leaves her provincial town in 1919 and takes a low-level job working for Gabrielle Coco Chanel, joining a gaggle of young women sewing until their fingers bleed to serve Mademoiselle in preparation for the upcoming fall collection. Dresses are depicted in magnificent detail; fellow couturiers Madeleine Vionnet and Jean Patou are vibrant and alive, and period fashion journalism is incorporated. The story about Chanel, is the story: with her married lovers and fiery arrogance, Mademoiselle is the true star of the book; each moment she's on the page is sheer pleasure, much like fine couture.

Isabelle endures Chanel's outrageous perfectionism and time demands and the spoiled "darlings" who are her customers, as well as the cutthroat competition in the workroom. When not working, she encounters the seamier side of society at Jazz Age parties and night clubs. This novel is filled with inside information on haute couture and the designers who heralded in a new age of fashion. There is plenty of intrigue, pathos, romance, and even some sewing tips, as well as multifaceted characters. Definitely entertaining.


 
Chanel: Collections and Creations by Daniele Bott


Book Description: A lush visual selection from the Chanel archive—essential reading for fashionistas and design aficionados everywhere.

Chanel's combination of tradition, originality, and style has always made it the most seductive of fashion labels. Here the House of Chanel opens its private archives, revealing a galaxy of brilliant designs created by Coco Chanel from 1920 onwards. Dazzling clothes, intricate accessories, beautiful models, and timeless design leave no doubt as to the lasting fame of her name and embody everything that has come to symbolize the magic of Chanel.

The book explores five central themes—the suit, the camellia, jewelry, makeup and perfume, the little black dress—and follows the threads from past to present to show how these key items have been rediscovered and reinvented by new designers. It includes many previously unpublished archive photographs and original drawings by Karl Lagerfeld, as well as glorious images from some of the greatest names in fashion photography.

[Albyn64]

Hi Louise
Am enjoying the paper dolls as a planning tool anad the travel wardrobe ideas in the new booklet. I am planning for a long cruise in the early new year and would love to make a pair of one seams in 4ply silk crepe. Can't find the fabric locally. Can you advise me about a supplier, please
Margaret

[marciae]

Got home from the cabin yesterday - late afternoon - first e-mail I checked was Louise's newsletter - just HAD to order the new blouse/top pattern!!   Anyone else order.  Today I plan on sewing the one seams - out of flannel - that I'm making for my DGD.  Hoping they fit - and she likes them - I think they'll make great "dorm" pants!

[Lisa Laree]

I finished another Farewell To Arms skirt this week; this one out of embroidered linen/rayon.  That is such a great pattern...Louise, thanks for putting it on your models in the Indy Designer Fashion Show last March!  I had a gem in my cabinet and didn't even know it. 

[Alice in Bama]

Got home from the cabin yesterday - late afternoon - first e-mail I checked was Louise's newsletter - just HAD to order the new blouse/top pattern!!   Anyone else order.  Today I plan on sewing the one seams - out of flannel - that I'm making for my DGD.  Hoping they fit - and she likes them - I think they'll make great "dorm" pants!

Yes I order it also have not gotten it yet but I am excited about it right now i am working on th multi pocket  [butterfly and bubblebees pattern] I am going to make the farewall to arms skirt next I love that  pattern too Also this fall I make  stars in heaven jacket and the HEADING OFOR ADVENTURE
YES I GONE LOUIS CUTTING CRAZY just love the way they if my fluffy body

Alice

[marciae]

I end up using and making more of Louise's patterns than any of the other independents.  I need to do some creative thinking about the Stars IH jacket.  I just "cut" it out when it first came out - didn't even think to make any adjustments - duh!   I work on it from time to time as it's in a beautiful cotton like black silk with a very slight embossed pattern.  Today it's gloomy and rainy - doesn't put me in the mood to do much but am off to finish the OS's for DGD!

[Linda Dean]

I have enjoyed playing with the paperdolls.  I scanned them and printed on transparancies.   I cut out the transparent paperdolls, pasted them to fabric and then cut them out.  Then you cant try different combinations to see how they will look.  After placing one of the transparent paperdolls on a piece of fabric, I changed my mind about using that pattern with that fabric.   If I knew how to post a picture, I would.  I need to learn.

I also find I sew more of Louise's patterns than any other independent patterns.

[Linda 75142]

I received my order of the new pattern on Thursday.  I also ordered the FTA.  I want to make the top and skirt.  I'm so glad to have our family reunion over (today) so I can get to the sewing room!

[Alice in Bama]

I have enjoyed playing with the paperdolls.  I scanned them and printed on transparancies.   I cut out the transparent paperdolls, pasted them to fabric and then cut them out.  Then you cant try different combinations to see how they will look.  After placing one of the transparent paperdolls on a piece of fabric, I changed my mind about using that pattern with that fabric.   If I knew how to post a picture, I would.  I need to learn.

I also find I sew more of Louise's patterns than any other independent patterns.

wHAT  A GREAT IDEAL WITH THE PAPERDOLLS. I TO WISH I KNEW HOW TO POST PICTURES TOO CAN T WAIT TO GET MY PATTERN !
STILL WORKING ON MY JACKET KINDA GOT CONFUSED ABOUT THE POCKETS AND THERE FLAPS BUT FINNAL IT CLICK -AT LEASE I THINK SO   

I KNOW MY SEWING IMPROVED I START SEWING LOISE PATTERNS

ALICE

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi, gang...I am home for about 10 days before heading to teach in Phoenix...and hope to see many of your there. I had a wonderful time in Grand Rapids, I stayed in a beautiful home and we all had great stories to tell. There were over 40 ladies in the class for the Sit and Sew...everyone did a beautiful job on the samples. I told them they are one of the last groups stitching the samples for this year. When I do sit and sews around the country next year all the samples will be new. When I finally get off the road I will write the steps and sew the samples myself.

I'm glad you are enjoying the 'Paper Dolls for Adults'....no one has to do their entire wardrobe, but it sure is a great tool if you are doing a SWAP grouping on clothes, or starting on a travel or working wardrobe.

If I am a really good girl and get all my work done, I will be heading out to do some snoop shopping later this week...well, I'm back to filling orders today, seeing there is only this week left for the sale.

gotta run, till later, Louise     

[Terri K]

Louise,  thank you for posting the reviews & info on the two new books on the House of Chanel.   When I saw this detail shot of one of the fall 2007 RTW coats on the Elle.com site,  I was reminded of your Threads Vol 121 Master Class article on trims with instructions on how to do this exact treatment.  That was the fabulous Nov 05 issue that Chanel USA collaborated with Threads on.


 
Here's the coat and outfit -  I don't know what that funky accessory is around her neck, or what they were thinking  not attractive

[Terri K]

The new "A Subtle Twist" pattern arrived in today's mail.  As usual, Louise's instructions, tips and techniques are a manual for fine sewing.  Love the collar techniques.    Now to go upstairs & cut one out     

Here's the neatest blue & black lightweight (the weave is actually see through) wool to make the AST - inspiration was this eskandar jacket @ $1,750 


Then I was going to use this soft eggshell cashmere

[Alice in Bama]

The new "A Subtle Twist" pattern arrived in today's mail.  As usual, Louise's instructions, tips and techniques are a manual for fine sewing.  Love the collar techniques.    Now to go upstairs & cut one out     

Terri ,
  What kind of gabric are you going to use . let us know how it does cannot wait to get mine

I got some linen I am going to use  Yes i can wear linen year round
alice

[NancyDaQ]

Here's the coat and outfit -  I don't know what that funky accessory is around her neck, or what they were thinking  not attractive

Terri, you're right. It's fug.

[Doris W. in TN]

TERRI K - those are TDF fabrics!    If you ever want to find a new home for your stash ......     

WEIRD CHANEL NECKLACE ... or whatever that red thing is in the picture Terri posted; it looks to me like the hard plastic visors women used to wear on the golf course.   Perhaps the model is wearing one around her neck???    Recyclable fashion?   

[redhead]

When I first saw it, I thought of a frisbee.  But it also reminded me of a plastic echo of something tribal like a Maasai bride's beaded collar, or the group that stretches women's necks and the brass rings they wear. 

[marciae]

Terri - I'm anxious to see and hear about your new blouse!  Louise always does a fantastic "story" about what is different with each pattern.  Since it was Friday when I ordered mine I figure I'll get it most any day now!  Off to the city today - my mail comes about 4:30 - so maybe.......!

[Terri K]

Oh what journey down memory lane it is to pull out the stash and contemplate.   I liked how the new pattern has separate collar pieces for every size - no guessing which teeny line and hatch pattern is the right one     I worked and traveled for 30 years in Federal Government before I retired in July - interesting assignments is all I can say... but since I sewed, I shopped at the places where the diplomats and ambassador's wives would go with their dressmakers.  Many things I sewed have since gone to the consignment shops, but I still have fabrics stored in boxes wrapped inside white cotton sheets - no plastic.   Last night I pulled out this TDF moss green mohair on one side, black tweed boucle on the other,  coat fabric, sooo light and soft.   You're right, some of it may need a new home Doris, that's a good idea.   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have been knee deep in trying to get a ton of stuff done while I have about a week and a half home before I have the last 3 trips for the year. It doesn't help loosing the past 2 days trying to hook printers up to computers and laptops and they don't like each other ....so about 5 hours were spent on the one before webboy took over and got all finished in record time...by the way, he now wants to be known as Mr. M. P. (Mr. Multi Purpose)...nah...he is still webboy....even though he fixed the printer and got all the next years schedule on the website. http://www.fabriccollections.com/schedule/schedule.html

But today, I had to hook another printer up to my little laptop in the sewing room. OK...what was on my schedule to do on Friday and Sat will be done Monday and Tuesday.

I wanted to let you in on some neat things I have been seeing and 'jumping off ideas' ...

http://www.westelm.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?partNumber=WE-PRODa461&storeId=17001&langId=-1&catalogId=17002&viewSetCode=E&parentId=WE-SH1ACCHDT&retainNav=true&cmsrc=IMC1265

I saw the stockings and tree skirt...the little circles were a printed 'leather' and I started to think of all the ultra suede just about everyone has (or maybe scraps) but that is just 'too good' to throw away. But think of the 'leathers' out there  on the market and the same idea can be done to them. The little circles were about the size of a dime and the stitching was just through the middle...there was no real pattern to the circles and the stitching went every direction...but just through the middle...this way the circle had dimention to it. I though of the ABO jacket with them sewn all over it ...tone on tone...and dark on light...black dots on white or ivory or the reverse...or start heavy on the hem of the jacket and the hem of the sleeves and go lighter as the circles traveled up the jacket front and back and the same with the sleeves.  While you are at it...look at the West Elm website...they have some really cool graphics on their pillows, etc. that can be looked at ain a fashion garment way.

This was a great pocket detail on a leather J. Jill jacket. Think BPD with just the bottom pockets...or any of the blouses in a light weight linen or cotton with just one pocket.

 http://www.jjill.com/detail3.asp?areaID=IF&itemID=626666&OfferId=6B&Mode=L1&vstrTagging=online%20

This was on a Eileen Fisher sweater, but it would be great of wovens. I won't put the drawstring at the hem or the pockets on at the tummy but the drawstring at the top edge of the Monks top (the neckline is in the SIH) or the Less is More top that I wrote to you about a few pages back, both patterns  would look great with the drawstring. It would not need to be turned over like the  Eileen Fisher picture...it could stand straight up and be pulled ever so slightly...you need two button holes to pull the ties through and can use the little 'stops' for parka cords...Dritz has them on the notions wall.  http://www.eileenfisher.com/scripts/ecatalogisapi.dll/Item2?Item=113121&group=137107&template=9990000001057050

Prices I have seen lately...'Eskandar like' The new pattern AST (A Subtle Twist) was the short sleeve version at NM for $370.00 in ivory linen and the original very wide version of the ABO shell top with the little top in ivory linen was $330.00.  And writing about the ABO jacket...there was a beautiful version in the Eskandar department, but done as a blouse...in woven cashmere and silk, very light weight and flowed...smaller pearl buttons, closer together and the collar was about an 1" higher with 2 or 3 buttons up the collar an it 'scrunched' down...a really wonderful look. I think it was about $570.

Thanks all for posting goodies while I was busy...I too can't even comment on the 'red plastic spoon' hanging around that poor girl's neck...poor Coco...just how fast can that woman be spinning in the grave!??? But, I am glad you found the detail  of the boucle edge around the jacket and in a great close up picture.

Well, I have one idea to post over on One Seam Pants...but after you read the idea, think of it as a great jumping off point when done on quite a few of the CLD jackets.

Well, I have to finish up the rest of the sale orders...it ends tonight, so maybe I can illustrate the new pattern this coming week before I pull out to teach. OH ya...and to answer a ton of e-mails from some of you. till later, Louise

[marciae]

A NEW pattern??!!   I got my subtle twist pattern yesterday - cut out view B this afternoon- it is a brownish gold rayon.  However since I had enough fabric I cut the long sleeve - I may shorten later.  I have some pendleton tweed that I had planned on using the T&C shirt (adding long sleeves) but am thinking I "might" want to do this top in the plaid??  And the fabric was free - it's aged for about 12/15 years!!

[Terri K]

I like your thinking Marcia     I added a photo of an eskandar jacket from Neiman Marcus that inspired me to use that blue/black wool and it's $1,750.

Thanks for the design idea for the buttonholes Louise.    There was a TDF Moschino coat (the expensive line, no cheap & chic) at Saks in fall 2004.  Knee length, the most fabulous chunky black boucle, just a classic style with a jewel neckline, not meant to close at the front, but it was lined in a black silk with yellow sunflowers, edges were left raw, no fringe but then a narrow, actually torn ribbon of the same silk was run through buttonholes, kind of randomly, some long lengths, some shorter all around the neckline, fronts and hem, around the pocket flaps, and the sleeves that were vented.   I really wanted that one bad - went and tried it on, but could not justify the $2,715 price tag!   Although DH said he liked it      I still have the fall preview catalog from that year and may scan and post - too gorgeous.

Oh, and here's an eskandar jacket in a pretty muted plaid - very sophisticated look for the new jacket pattern  tobacco plaid jacket

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Here is a small section I just received via e-mail from someone who just finished AST

I have been sewing shorter jackets in your other patterns; in fact, I just completed "A Subtle Twist" in a wonderful lightweight wool blend that I got from you when you had your store.  Fabulous pattern - I made the XS - I am 5'4" and weigh in at approx 130 +/-.  It is elegantly casual - sort of like you, I guess.

I though it was a nice thing to say and wanted to let you know.

Back to getting everything working between the computer, fax, scan, and credit card machine. Illustrated the cover for the new pattern yesterday, I will get to work on the illustrations tomorrow. I thought I had to leave for the next event on Thursday but I don't leave until Friday...so I can get a bit more work done this week...but then I only have 2 days to get stuff done next week before leaving for Asheville.

till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/productImagesPopup.jhtml?selected=an&item=prod45370058&pageProductId=prod45370058&yB=ag_prod45370058

this blouse is Striped Shirt: White with contrast stripes. Stand collar; button front. Long sleeves. 73% cotton, 20% polyamide, 7% polyester. Made in England of French materials. Price $370.00

http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod45080112&parentId=cat000025&masterId=cat000019&index=6&cmCat=cat000000cat000001cat000009cat000019cat000025

This top is Scrunch-Neck Shirt:  Black. Scrunched funnel neckline; button front. Long sleeves with drop shoulders. 80% baby cashmere, 10% silk, 10% vicuna. Made in England of Italian materials. Price $1,470.00 Granted, you are talking about the Rolls Royce of fabrics here. I remember taking a group of students to Neimans when I was teaching college...our tour guide was Stanley Marcus himself...I remember in the Men's Department at the store in Dallas, He pulled a full size long 100% vicuna scarf  through his wedding ring! The vicuna fiber is from the chin hairs of the Vicuna Goat that are collected from the  high mountain rocks after the goat rubs his chin on them.   

Pants: Cashmere Trousers: Black. Side pockets. Elastic waist; wide legs. 100% cashmere. Made in England of Italian materials. Price $1090.00

Welcome to the ABO and OSP...Ain't ya glad you sew!!! till later, Louise

[vtmartha]

The vicuna fiber is from the chin hairs of the Vicuna Goat that are collected from the  high mountain rocks after the goat rubs his chin on them.   

Did Stanley Marcus tell you the story of the hairs on the chinny-chin-chin of the Vicuna 'goat'? 

Martha (who has been raising llamas and alpacas for the past 20 years)

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Did Stanley Marcus tell you the story of the hairs on the chinny-chin-chin of the Vicuna 'goat'?

Yes, Did he get my goat? Louise

[vtmartha]

Well, either that or it's a bit like the game of 'telephone'.    I always think of pashmina stoles as being passed through a wedding ring, although I've never tried it.  Pashmina is from the Himalayan Mountain goat - but not from it's chin (that hair would be exceedingly coarse!).  Vicuna is a member of the llama, alpaca, guanaco, vicuna family - camel relatives from the Andes.  The vicuna is the wild relative with a very fine undercoat.  I don't know if it fits through a wedding ring. 

[Terri K]

Martha, that is so cool!  How many do you have?  I read that alpaca wool is second only to silk in strength.  We have the two sweet chinchilla guys, also from the Andes, so I would never wear a Chinchilla coat - faux will do.   

Now back to the subject -  Louise,  re the A Subtle Twist jacket - I haven't cut my fabric yet because I've been worried about the size.   The next time I make the Heading for Adventure, I'm making the XS because the S was extra roomy on me.    I'm thinking that I should do the same for the AST since I'm about the same size as the lady you posted about. 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The vicuna is the wild relative with a very fine undercoat.  I don't know if it fits through a wedding ring

The story that Stanley told might be a bit of a wild one but the scarf did pass through the wedding ring...this was years ago when I was teaching college and taking my students to Dallas and NYC on their junior and senior trips in fashion merchandising and design...and the cost fo the mens neck scarf was something like $1100. at that time.

He also told a story of a customer storming to his office very upset that he would let an extremely old woman walk up the down escalator one step at a time trying to stay in the same place while cleaning the leaves of the live plants between the up and down escalators, and could he not find a better job for her or make her retire..."Madam, the only other job she could do at Neiman Marcus would be mine...that is my mother, she has already retired from helping run Neiman Marcus and this is what she wants to do!"

Every year when I would bring my students to Neiman's, He would be there ready to tell stories, lead the tours through sections of the store no one would ever get to see and sit until all the questions were answered. I'm sure there were many winks in an older man's eye as the eager fashion students could see themselves as future _____(fill in blank).

Many of my students did go on to work for Neiman Marcus, not only in Dallas, but in other locations. I have just received an e-mail from one of my former students I had taught years ago...she found me on one of the classmates websites...so that is one e-mail I will answer and see just what she has been up to for the past _____(fill in blank) years.

till later, Louise 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

To Terri,
Yes, I think you would be fine in the XS for AST...measure the neck circumference to make sure it won't be to tight on you. And you wuld be right also making the XS for HFA...I usually wear a LG in my own patterns, I have made the HFA in LG if I wanted a duster look, but have made a MD when I wanted a tunic to be worn over just a pair of One Seams and buttoned from the neck to the waist and then left open the rest of the way to make two more verticles.

OK, I just hit the wall, till later, Louise

[vtmartha]

Terri, we reached the end of our llama/alpaca breeding career a few years back.  We have two left from a herd of about 25.  Very interesting animals.
Louise, thanks for sharing your NM tales - both from years back and from your snoop shopping.