Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[marciae]

Just home from the cabin and catching up on e-mail and this web site   In my e-mail I had notice from Sewing Workshop of a sewing 'retreat' featuring Louise Cuttings and Linda Lee the later part of January!!  How awesome would that be.  I've e-mailed for more info as to costs, etc.  Sounds like a wonderful vacation!

[Portia]

I love your BPD pattern--I've adjusted both the jacket and top until they fit me just fine.  I have to lengthen your jackets about two to three inches for my height and make a slight rounded back adjustment.  I made the ABO and the dropped shoulder/sleeves look terrible on me (I have sloping shoulders to begin with) but I love the standing collar.  I have been pondering how to make adjustments .  Tonight I morphed the BPD body and sleeves to the ABO neckline and collar treatment.  Louise, does this make sense?  Or is there a better way to raise the sleeves on the ABO?  I am getting ready to cut it out tomorrow to see what happens unless you have a better idea.  Thanks, Portia

[hilda]

I've been anxiously checking back for word on shoulder pads..........  Louise, any updates?  TIA

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I checked just before I left on vacation...but it was Labor Day and I could not call the company in NYC. I will be calling when I get back into town next week. I will let everyone know when I found the ones I like the best. I am here if anyone needs me. till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I think I have found the right shoulder pads for various sewing projects. I have ordered samples of several different styles and will report what arrives and see if it is what you all are looking for.

I have been aswering voicemails and e-mails like crazy the last 2 days plus getting 200 One-Seams out for an order.

Now I'm off to write the copy for my section in the IPCA fashion show for Novi. Where does the day go?

I want to sew! I want to sew!till later, Louise

[carolg]

I haven't posted to this board yet - a newbie and have been lurking.  I have many of Louise's patterns but yet to make anything except the one-seam pants which I LOVE!!!!  I haven't sewn clothing for almost 5 years (been quilting and sewing for grandkids but I am back at it.  I have added some inches to my body and I am wondering how to add inches to the Town and Country campshirt.  Hoping the Louise can help.

I am 54 inches in the hip now (too much sitting around hey) and I am not sure how to add on to the blouse.  I added to the One-seams and it worked - did just as the book said but wonder how to add to the blouse!!  Any help will be appreciated.  I am going to just do a cotton camp shirt to get the pattern squared away.  By the way - there are not a lot of camp shirt patterns for large people out there.  I love them for knocking around and we do a lot of car shows on the week-ends in sunny So. Calif so they are great.  Tia to any help.   Carol G

[rebells]

Vogue's Today's Fit patterns go up to 55" bust and 57" hips.  I don't know if there's a camp shirt but there are plenty of other sityles.  I was looking through various plus size patterns today and saw a company that had a camp shirt but I can't remember whcih one it was.

[LindaE]

Here is a today fit pattern from vogue that I would consider a camp shirt..

[Karla]

I am wondering how to add inches to the Town and Country campshirt.

Louise's sizing is generous.  While lots of ease in tops looks very luxurious on good bone structures, I find that I have to drop down a size to accommodate narrow shoulders.  There is still plenty of bust and hip ease when I move down a size, so you might find that you won't need to add much (if any) to the camp shirt, even if you fall outside the measurement chart on the pattern.

[Liana]

Hi carolg!  Glad you're posting now! 

This board has lots of neat features that you may want to try.  If you have any questions or need help with anything, just ask the Moderators.  There are a couple of threads that may be of interest to you as you look around the site.  The "Are You New, Please Read This Thread First" is a good place to start, as is  Forum Decorum & FAQ and of course there's the ever-popular Sandbox where you can try out all the features, and which is a very easy place to get help or have questions answered.

Great to have you with us, and again, welcome!

[carolg]

Thanks so much for all of the input on "enlarging" the campshirt.  I DO have the Vogue shirt pattern and thought about doing that but I have had Louise's pattern since it came out and sort of wanted to try it.  I tried a Kwik Sew and didn't care for it too much and then did a simplicity and ended up with puffy sleeves that I don't like so off to the drawing board.   Some of my problem is the fabric.  I don't want to use expensive fabric for the try-out and fitting pattern so when I get it done it is blah.  I am getting the length that I like figured out and getting some things done with each trial.  I like the campshirts to go with jeans for casual but I also would like the pattern to the point that I can make an overblouse to go on top of single color top and pants to dress it up.

I am, at this point, wishy-washy and have to make up my mind and go for it.  I love all of the chatter with you girls and your sewing is awesome.  Great ideas, so much knowledge.  I am so glad that I found this site.  Thanks for the help and ideas.   

Off to the drawing board again!!!!!!!!!!!

[maryh]

Has anyone made this top?  The pattern picture looks great - any changes, suggestions, etc.  Thanks.

[marciae]

I've made the jacket twice - love it - however, I am wearing it like a shirt jacket - I haven't put the button on the collar as I can't stand anything close around my neck.  I used a sz med, which I do on all of Louise's patterns.  Having said that - the top in a med was too big - the second one I made I sewed in the side seams a bit more and did some 'shaping' at the waist.  When doing the facing for the top make sure you lay the pattern the right way on the fabric, or if cutting two, make sure you use the correct one.  Ask me why I remember to do that

[Sewshopper]

Marciae, what did you use for fabrics?  I have the pattern and am considering a washed silk dupionni.

Karleene

[marciae]

I used a cotton home dec for my first one - used some brocadish looking pale aqua for the 2nd.  I received the aqua from Michael in the 'bundle' sale.  I've decided that I'm going to do a tuck at the bottom of the sleeve, sew on a matching button, then I can push the sleeves up on my arm.  For whatever reason, it's hard for me to wear sleeves "normal" except in cold weather!

[marciae]

Karleen - forgot - the silk dupioni would work great.  If you read all of this thread "someone" talks about seeing several of these jackets made up at a show Louise attended - even wools!  An acquaintence made one and she cut the collar down.  I need to e-mail her to see exactly how she did that.  Louise only has one collar seam and it's in the back.  The collar is cut on the fold and is one long piece.

[LindaE]

Marciae and Karleene,    I also have this pattern was thinking about making it out of some stable sweater knit some that doesn't have a lot of stretch. 


I will be waiting for to see you creations.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi gang, I'm back home for a minute and a half and though I would answer carolg's question about 'sizing up' the 'Town and Country' camp shirt.

When I teach I am asked about sizing. Like always, I ask people to look at the finished size on the pattern envelope to help put them in a correct size for their personal taste.

In the 'T&C' the finished size is 56" in the XL. With you being 54" in the hip, you should have at least 4" of ease over your hips measurement and you can go up to 8" or more....again - personal taste.

The easiest way to size up is in a section of the garment that I call 'no man's land'....this is somewhere along the shoulder seam,  between where the collar is sewn to the garment and where the sleeve is sewn to the garment.  You will  have about 5"-6" along the shoulder seam to draw a vertical line from the top of the pattern tissue to hem...check to make sure you are not getting into the curve of the hem area. So keep the vertical line along the shoulder seam closer to the neck edge on this pattern. In about the same spot on the yoke draw a vertical line again from the top of the yoke to the bottom and again on the lower back pattern  piece again a vertical line. You will be placing tissue paper under all 3 pattern pieces. All 3 pattern pieces must be separated the same amount. If you add 1" to the front... 1" will be added to the yoke and the lower back. You will be actually adding 4" total to the circumference to the garment. Left front, left back, right front and right back.  'True' up all the seams after you place the tissue paper and taped the second piece of tissue in place. 

This would give you the correct amount of ease to the camp shirt. Let me know if you need further exlplination.

I have gotten a great shoulder pad lined up. I have talked to a company I have worked with years ago and it has taken a bit of time to get exactly what I wanted. Check the website in a about a week (well, you can check it anytime) but the shoulder pad should be up on the notions page in about a week.

All is going well for the Retreat in January. With the news being out for only  a month, we now have 21 ladies signed up. There are only a few spaces left.

Well, many things to do still on my Monday list. Till later, Louise

[carolg]

Louise,  Thanks so much for the fitting information.  You are so generous.  I will add to the Town and Country pattern.   4 inches would probably be adequate but I like some extra especially for my "Jeans and Shirt" stuff.  Love your one seam pants .  I feel a little spoiled by them as nothing else is quite as comfortable.  Hoping that this shirt will be as comfy and fit as well.  Take care and enjoy.  Carol Gerrard

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear carolg, this is the quickest way I have found to enlarge the circumference of a pattern. Also, a pattern can be taken in at the same' no man's land' if you have found you are between sizes and need to go down...the equal amounts (front and back) can be put in or taken out so patterns can be fit just to how you like them to fit...you.

 I have to e-mail an answer to a question I received yesterday privately. She wants to know how to make long sleeves from the short sleeve pattern -Points- in' Points And Pleats'...she lives in Clevelandand...seeing the weather up there...I know why. So, I thought I would put the answer here also. I know I have written about this on SW, but I never kept and of my answers, so here goes. By the way...does anyone know what is going on with SW???

1: With drop shoulder patterns, you don't know what the designer had in mind as to where the drop shoulder should fall on your body. You need to measure yourself from your neck (where your neck comes out of your body directly below your ear) at your shoulder seam. Continue the tape measurer along your shoulder (over a shoulder pad ) and down your arm....elbow bent and hand on hip...fingers pointing down. Continue the tape to your wrist. I can tell you this is not an easy measurement to do on yourself...you will hear your back 'crack' because of the way you are bending in half vertically! You will come up with something like 28" give or take...

2: Place your front tissue pattern down on a flat surface, with enough room to the right of the armscye so the short sleeve pattern and extra tissue pattern paper can be added...most (or all) Front tissue patterns (as you are looking them on a table) have the center front toward the left. On the Front tissue find the seam allowance at the neck/shoulder seam line and place a dot (this is usually where the 5/8" lines intersect. Do the same at the arscye/shoulder seam allowance and again put a dot.

3: Find the seam allowance on the cap of the Sleeve where the 'dot' is (again usually at 5/8"). Place the dot of the sleeve over the dot of the armscye on the Front tissue. Put tissue paper under your sleeve so you can continue the underarm sleeve cutting lines down toward your wrist, and tape the extra tissue into place.

4: With your tape...starting at the neck dot, measure in a straight line along the shoulder seam onto the sleeve and continue down onto the extra tissue and mark your finished wrist maeasurement. 

5: Draw the underarm cutting lines at the same angle as the pattern. Complete the bottom of the sleeve (the finished hem line) by drawing a horizontal line connecting the 2 vertical under arm lines.

6: Draw a  line parallel to the finished hem line, the amount you want as a hem (1 1/2"- 2"). Fold the tissue back on itself at the finished hem line and looking through the tissue, draw the lines from the underarm seams on the folded back section. Turn the tissue back down...you will now see that in the hem area has created 'turn of the cloth' ...that little amount is needed to turn the hem back up inside of the garment so the finished area is the exact circumference needed.

Well, now that I written this and read it about 100 times, I will cut and paste it to the gal who e-mailed me. till later, Louise

[Portia]

Louise:  how would you suggest modifying the ABO sleeves to shorten the amount of dropped sleeve?  It seems to emphasize my sloping shoulders.  Thanks

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The ABO is based on the a kimono draft for the sleeve/armscye/body. This style can not be alter without going back to the original sloper for the design...the sloper had a high cap set in sleeve in the basic (original) size as do all my original designs (more on that later)...when the kimono draft was created (in the original size), that original high cap was gone and never to be seen again.  The seamline attaching the sleeve to the body really just becomes a seam line. You can set a better look to the slope of the shoulders with a small set of bullnose shoulder pads.  And, yes, they have arrived...but 'webboy' still has to get them up on the site.

Why I don't design patterns with 'set in sleeves'...I have found through way to many years of teaching/custom work/classes/questions/the store, that most people can't fit into a set in sleeve and then into everything else in the draft...I am designing 5 sizes in each pattern...that is a big jump from one size to the next, if it was a fitted high cap sleeve...If you get the sleeve to fit you... usually the across chest and across back  -the  measurment can be off (a problem to get those areas to fit), the circumference of the bust can then be to small or large and the hips the same...to small or to large. The drop shoulder design gives a  greater amount of ease to the upper body and with a little shoulder pad to 'set' your sleeve shape, the drop sleeve seam really just vanishes. If you found the drop to be too much, you might try to take the style in as I posted to carolg.

Just this morning, I spent about 2 hours writing how to extend the sleeve to make it full length for the 'P&P' blouse. The 'Points Blouse' has a drop shoulder in the pattern and the private e-mail person wanted to know how to make it come to her wrist. Well, after sending the same as I wrote here, I received an e-mail "so all I have to is cut on the lengthen/shorten line and drop it down...some."  Well, no, not exactly

Oh well, I'm off to work on a new pattern (not a garment, that is next month), this one was started several weeks ago...working on the copy all day today...will sew a prototype tomorrow.and let you know...till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Well, it's 5:30AM here and I have just a few minutes before the cab picks me up for the airport...very little sleep. I had to stay up until the final minutes for Project Runway. I tried not to read anything about the end. I thought Laura's garments were wonderful...what a beautiful presentation....the sewing and beading were wonderful. I liked how close the camera work was on each of the different outfits of all the presenters. You never get to see that in regular runway shows.

I saw in USA Today that Randolph Duke had a new book out. "The Look: A Guide to Dressing From the Inside Out" Could be interesting...Well, gotta run. Till later, Louise 

[Sewshopper]

I was lucky enough to spend today at a 'Sit and Sew' with Louise.  It was very worth while.  Actually, it is going to take me a bit to process all I learned, head is still spinning.  Cutting out the homework last night, I was muttering, but today it was apparent that it really made the workshop much more effecient.  Time spent with Louise was productive, rather than spent cutting out pieces of fabric!  We tried on garments and I just wanted to mention that I have the ABO pattern, but was hesitant to make it up because of what looked like a 'really dropped shoulder' but in real life, it really looks more like a pieced sleeve.   I would have no trouble wearing it.  It has a very flattering collar.  I also was impressed with the Points blouse from Points and Pleats, it has nice slimming lines.  Since I had both already, bought the Less is More and Town & Country.  If I could just sew as fast as I stash patterns!!

Karleene

[marciae]

Karleene did you see any of her applique work?  I'm interested in the animal one.  In an earlier post Louise was putting some of the cutouts on a jacket - think the ABO?  I may just break down and order the pattern?

[Sewshopper]

Marciae, spent the day today at the ASG Special Event with Louise.  Processing all the info will take some time!  She has a wonderful sense of humor and the 2 days have been most enjoyable.

The appliques are good, I got the Deco Shapes as I tend to like geometrics.  I don't recall seeing the animal ones on garments that she had, but she said that things had been shipped, I believe to the KC Expo, so they may be there.  She had several garments with other designs and they make for a nice change from embroidery.  I have not been on the site, but I bet that they may be there.  There were large sheets with the designs to choose from as the way they are packaged, all the designs do not show.   Louise, are you out there somewhere to answer?

Karleene 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi all, I have be very busy getting things ready for the next show (Kansas City) and website. I will take the nail out of Webboy's foot soon so he can get married in a few weeks, so make sure you are signed up for the Newsletter. Some things that have been asked for and are now are ready to show. yyyyyyyyyy(Twinkie says hi also)...he has done everything possible for me to stop typing an fuss with him.

It is wonderful to see ladies who have traveled to the Sewing Expos around the country and then to see them again at the local guild shows. What is normally an hour at the Expos turns into about an 6-8 hour lecture times 2 days when I do ths type of event...questions on everything and anything, including questions at lunch. I always look forward to the informal times...you get to ask questions that only you want to know the answer to ....almost always others have the same questions...but laidies are shy to ask...I call it 'lets stump the teacher!'

After I finish my project this morning that will be photographed for the website, I am going to start on an ABO in heavier fabric. In the pattern instructions for the back neck at the collar...it instructs the sewer to turn the collar seam allowance under along the stitching line..this is fine for just about every type of fabric....but I think heavier fabrics...home dec or tapestry fabrics need to be serged to about 3/8" between the  clip marks for the inside neck seam along the collar (the section that would be turned under...see the illustration in the pattern) and let it lay flat around the back of the neck. Stitch in the ditch from shoulder seam to shoulder seam around the back of the neck in the collar/back neck seam line from the right side of the garment. I hope this makes sense...only one cup of coffee and Twinkie trying to help type every few seconds.   
 
Coffee is calling and of course now that I have finished typing Twinkie is asleep...full tummy and is ready for a nap...gee...and we have been up for a whole hour. till later, Louise

Oops...I realized I had not answered Karleen's question. The large sheets in the applique patterns (24" x 36") are not shown on the website. The black and white illustrations are in a very 'graphic' style and are too easy to blow up. So I take a bound set of patterns (like a set of blueprints) to Expo Sewing shows and Guild events so the ladies may see what is in each pattern. I have taken many photos of the appliques on my garment patterns for the website and travel with them around the country. As I stitch more examples, I'll get them up on the website.

[Lorraine K]

Louise -

It 's a stormy northeast weekend - we've got blasting winds today so it's good day to sit and sew.  I'm going to make my first ABO from a funky cotton, and I was contemplating one from a fleecy fabric, but was concerned about bulk - thanks for the tip on the collar.

At least your cat tries to type - mine always tries to change the page!

Lorraine

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I finihsed my ABO just in time ... (becasue all the orders that came in had to be filled and mailed) except for the buttons and buttonholes. I hope to do so this weekend and then get all the boxes packed and off to the Kansas City Sewing Expo show on Monday. 

I also have to sew the buttons and tassels on my latest 'Nantucket Bucket'...after the verrrrry slow sewing while the instructions are being written...sew a seam/write instructions/draw an illustration/sew a seam/write instructions/draw an illustration...it is fun just to sit and sew a 'bucket' or in the case of just sewing the ABO. I love to just SEW!

After I take the next batch of packages to the Post Office...the ones that have to go out of the country...I get started on my next project. So I am here if you need to ask questions. Let me know what you are sewing....after the next project, which is a writing a new and different type of booklet, I will be back to sewing...although I always multi-task...I will sew while I am writing.

I go in for additional eye surgery the morning after I get back from the Kansas City show....so I want to get lots of stuff done before that.   I'm off ... till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Louise, would love to see more versions of the ABO on your gallery to get inspiration ideas.   I thought I had the perfect fabric in my stash -  a soft, yummy wide-wale corduroy with some stretch but I don't have enough yardage. Now I'm looking at other candidates.   I'm also looking at using some super Italian tapestry that I bought many yards for drapes and decorating.   I understand that Nicole Miller used it for jackets.   It's heavy though, like the fabric you used for the 3/4 length By Popular Demand jacket, so I appreciate your suggestion for heavier fabrics.

I was looking for some fall/winter ideas for the "basic patterns" so I revisited the SWAP 2006 gallery on Timmel Fabrics website to look at Hellenne's wonderful collection.   Take a look at what she did with her "Stars in Heaven" knit tops!

[blue mooney]

Where do you all find Louise's gallery? When I go to the site, I find the patterns and notions, but I can't find garment photos. Am I overlooking an obvious link?

[LindaE]

here is the gallery

[marciae]

Has anyone made, or seen, the Nantucket Bucket?  Wondering how big it is??

[blue mooney]

Thank you, Linda! I've made Louise's one-seams pretty often, but haven't tried any of the other patterns. Now I'm starting to think about them, and it really helps to see some ideas already executed.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

You made me go and measure    I knew it was 6" across...you use a 6" round plastic needlepoint canvas in the bottom to 'steady her' and it is 10" high...I can get everything in the 'bucket' standing straight up...there is a pocket in the lining for your cell phone to stand up and another pocket for lipstick/creditcard/mad money etc...but you could place pockets all 'round the lining to 'contain' things you need in an instant.

I am working on another black and white one with stackable buttons (all in different colors)...black tassels and black cords.  The black fabric is really a linen dish towels. About 3" in from the 4 sides are 2 rows of white hand picked stitches that I will use within the design of the bag. And the white towel I will use for the lining, has the reverse, black hand picked stitches. Linen towels are the perfect size...and you can get conpanion towels for the body of the bag and the lining.

Well, between yesterday and today, I have framed 14 of the original drawings for the pattern covers. Most of the drawings (because of my poor eyesight) are between 10" and 20" high. I started about a year ago framing my art portfolio from college and hanging them down a long hallway in my upstairs outside my studio. I had ordered all the widths and lengths  for the frames months ago and finally cut the mats yesterday. Built the frames and selected where all the work needed to be placed. I'll take pictures and have webboy place them in the website gallery, but webboy gets married this coming weekend and I fear he might have a few things on his plate at the moment. So they will be up soon.

OK, now I need to get started on the next booklet...seeing I have a deadline in fornt of me. I have all my notes and info I need...just sitting down and doing it......it is so lovely out today...abut 70 degrees and a bit of wind...sorry...you up north people...be we live all summer  in 96+ degrees to finally get this weather for the next 5 months...I'm off till later,  Louise