Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[RobbieJo]

I purchased my Rowenta at the Atlanta Expo.  It does spit after sitting for a while, but I have found that by turning down the amount of steam (separate dial) it does help some.  I also do the same as Louise, do an iron "blowdown" after leaving it to sit for a while.  As a non-sewing friend said (who loves the iron, btw) "All steam irons spit." 

It does not leak and I pick up the base and shake it a little before starting for the day.  I've learned to estimate the amount of water needed very well.

[hilda]

I just read Louise's article in Threads 133 on designing with small scale paper garments.  Does anyone know which pattern this is? - see attached ( I didn't know how to paste in a picture)


[attachment deleted by admin]

[Terri K]

Hilda, I believe that is Just Good Friends.   It's a nice tunic with a tie in the back to control fullness.  There are a couple made up on the Waechter's Silk Shop gallery.    I think they look better on than in the photos.

[Fabricarts]

I just noticed at Louise's website that "Just Good Friends" has a new, lowered price.
Miriam

[marciae]

The just good friends seems to run smaller than some of Louise's other patterns - at least it did for me.  Just make sure  you measure, etc before you trace or cut!

[hilda]

Thanks everyone.  Have a great Thanksgiving.

[marciae]

I finally got my ST stitched together!!   It needs hems and buttonholes.  On a quick try on it is HUGH!   It also rides up in the back??  I'll work with it when we get home this evening.  I may have to take a tuck in "no mans land".  I made the shorter version with long sleeves and a mandarin collar.  I used some dark gold rayon that had been aging for about 10-12 years!  I even found buttons in my stash that will match!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi all...I am still trying to get everything back in order after being on the road for about 3 and a half months straight...I am between food appointments! So far I have had Thanksgiving breakfast with a firend and her husband...and just finished early lunch Thanksgiving at a club and then will be driving about 2 hours to the coast to have another full dinner...I'm pacing...I'm pacing...no little yellow happy face showing a full shomach...but I am very grateful that I have friends who take in orphan adults with blond hair...I am hoping everyone is having a nice day and you are able to do exactly what you want...watch TV...eat...watch TV...sew...not clean up the kitchen!

AST is supposed to run large...it fits around the neck collar band...so make your size so the neckline fits. It really should have a small set of shoulder pads to 'set' the shirt on the shoulders...that way the garment will hang form the shoulders. It won't stick out at the sides, but hang in soft folds at the sides of the body...this is what gives the appearance of the rise in the front. It is a 'look' that you will see in Eskandar, Shirin Guild, Blanque, Planet, Kane & Sells, and lately in Eileen Fisher. 

Make sure you are signed up for the newsletter in the week(s) to come...trying to get my act together.

I receive the hand woven fabric from the weaver that I have designed the garment for on Saturday. She has been weaving all summer and there is about 8 years as I understand. This is for the HGA fashiopn show in June. Here is a little more about it. http://www.weavespindye.org/pages/?p=convergence2008/designchallenge.html&loc=3-91-00

 Again, have a happy day, till later, Louise

[marciae]

Well, my top fits the criteria!  I'm now 'dressed' to go to Mother's for dinner a bit later.  I plan on trying the top on when we return - I have on shoulder pads, nice slacks and also makeup!!  And, I am thinking that maybe this just isn't the look for me - who knows!

Have a great Dinner - drive carefully!

[Alice in Bama]

I finally got my ST stitched together!!   It needs hems and buttonholes.  On a quick try on it is HUGH!   It also rides up in the back??  I'll work with it when we get home this evening.  I may have to take a tuck in "no mans land".  I made the shorter version with long sleeves and a mandarin collar.  I used some dark gold rayon that had been aging for about 10-12 years!  I even found buttons in my stash that will match!

I had the same problem quess it was not my sewing yea But since Louise explan it maybe we did not do so bad after all

Louise ,
 You are always welcome at my table . I am a pretty goood cook too Just rather be sewing than cooking

till later

Alice

[marciae]

I tried on my ST last night - with shoulder pads, makeup, and proper shoes and slacks.  It doesn't look  bad - it hangs the same front and back with the sides draping down.  I am going to put a slight tuck in the sleeves so I can push them up - the top looked rather chic than.  I'm not sure this is a style I will make again.  It is much like a Miyake top that I made some years ago - I love to make those kind of cloths but am not comfortable in wearing!!   For anyone wanting to make it - it is a wonderful drafted pattern - as are all of Louise's - goes together fairly fast.  It's definitely a fashion statement!!

[Alice in Bama]

Hey i wore my today  and i enjoyed wearing it now that i found it was made correctly yea
its a very coffy blouse . i will probably make it again in  more flowing fabric

Alice

[LOUISE CUTTING]

OK, one more thing checked off my 'to due' list...I was assigned an article a while ago from Threads about dropping in a bust dart into a garment that doesn't have one. I have been doing it in hotels and on planes over the past few months...well, today was the first time I could sit down...only the cats to bother me...just how cute do I look laying upside down and stretched 3 feet long across your desk covering up all the paper work...

But the article is done, illustrated and sent to the editor and I now get to work on the prototype of the HGA item I am making for the fashion show. I meet with the weaver yesterday Irene Monrow if you read the things on the HGA site.
http://www.weavespindye.org/pages/?p=convergence2008/designchallenge.html&loc=3-91-00
We did a bit of playing and changing and I will start on the 'real thing' this week. Although the protype has been done in hand woven fabric that I bought at Eunice Farmer's in St Louis several season ago when I taught there before...what does Shirley Adams say...if the fabric has been in your stash for X number of years it is FREE. I wish...!!! Nothing like making a protype out of $$$ fabric...but it was the only way to test it...I always say never make a muslin out of muslin...try to find a fabric that has similar weight, and drape.

I am glad you are 'comin' 'round' to the AST...when I have seen the shirts in the designer collections the prices range form $890.00 for a short sleeve cotton shirting to $1290 for a cashmere and silk for the long sleeve longer version.

Short of turning herself inside out...I think it is time to play with the kitty. till later, Louise

[Alice in Bama]

OK, one more thing checked off my 'to due' list...I was assigned an article a while ago from Threads about dropping in a bust dart into a garment that doesn't have one. I have been doing it in hotels and on planes over the past few months...well, today was the first time I could sit down...only the cats to bother me...just how cute do I look laying upside down and stretched 3 feet long across your desk covering up all the paper work...

But the article is done, illustrated and sent to the editor and I now get to work on the prototype of the HGA item I am making for the fashion show. I meet with the weaver yesterday Irene Monrow if you read the things on the HG.

I am glad you are 'comin' 'round' to the AST...when I have seen the shirts in the designer collections the prices range form $890.00 for a short sleeve cotton shirting to $1290 for a cashmere and silk for the long sleeve longer version.

Short of turning herself inside out...I think it is time to play with the kitty. till later, Louise

Is it funny how kitty cats love to help you with your paperwork !  My dog loves to hellp me sew and has almost gotten my fingers a couple of times steeping on my sewing petal 

[marciae]

Just wanted to comment on how much I   L O  V E   the shoulder pads I got from Louise many months ago!  They are wonderful - guess they are still on her web site?  NAYY

[Alice in Bama]

Just wanted to comment on how much I   L O  V E   the shoulder pads I got from Louise many months ago!  They are wonderful - guess they are still on her web site?  NAYY

i have to check this out has any one ever used her interfacing ? // How does it compare to others like peggy sagers? 

[Alice in Bama]

OK, one more thing checked off my 'to due' list...I was assigned an article a while ago from Threads about dropping in a bust dart into a garment that doesn't have one. I have been doing it in hotels and on planes over the past few months...well, today was the first time I could sit down...only the cats to bother me...just how cute do I look laying upside down and stretched 3 feet long across your desk covering up all the paper work...

But the article is done, illustrated and sent to the editor and I now get to work on the prototype of the HGA item I am making for the fashion show. I meet with the weaver yesterday Irene Monrow if you read the things on the HGA site.

 

Short of turning herself inside out...I think it is time to play with the kitty. till later, Louise

I CAN'T WAIT TO GET THIS THREADS !!!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

have to check this out has any one ever used her interfacing ?

Yes, me ...I have searced all over the world for the best interfacings...most not from the USA...nothing wrong with them...the vendors just seem to discontinue them quickly and I have to continue to test new ones...the trouble is, when an interfacing is discontinued...the vendor doesn't replace it with another... 

Just wanted to comment on how much I   L O  V E   the shoulder pads I got from Louise many months ago!  They are wonderful

Ya, but don't get caught looking at yourself in the mirror with them just attached to your bra strap...and no blouse on...the first time I saw this picture, I was in hysterics and had to leave the room.

Well, lots of boxes arrived today so I have to see what I got???

till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Hi Louise and all.   I'm doing some planning & measuring for my first A Subtle Twist (AST) jacket.    I got out one of my Eskandar jackets that is size 0 - the smallest he makes.   I've had this set - jacket & pants for some time.    I love how the jacket fits and looks but hated the pant.   It had side seams - not a no-side-seam pant.  The guys at the office kept saying they looked like clown pants so I took the pant apart and completely re-made it.   Here is a photo of the jacket.  The measurement across the bust is 66" - just under your medium.   Your AST sleeve isn't as dropped as the Eskandar one, and I like that.   I may start with the AST medium - what do you think?   Or should I go with the small?

The Eskandar jacket has the mandarin collar and is lined in heavy black silk so the facing is just turned in and attached to the lining.  I don't think there is any interfacing.    You can see more photos on my Flickr account.   


Here's the fabric that I want to make the first one out of.  It's drapey and has an open weave so you can see the top underneath.   I think it looks wonderful with this silk jacquard for a blouse/top underneath.

[Alice in Bama]

Hi Louise and all.   I'm doing some planning & measuring for my first A Subtle Twist (AST) jacket.    I got out one of my Eskandar jackets that is size 0 - the smallest he makes.   I've had this set - jacket & pants for some time.    I love how the jacket fits and looks but hated the pant.   It had side seams - not a no-side-seam pant.  The guys at the office kept saying they looked like clown pants so I took the pant apart and completely re-made it.   Here is a photo of the jacket.  The measurement across the bust is 66" - just under your medium.   Your AST sleeve isn't as dropped as the Eskandar one, and I like that.   I may start with the AST medium - what do you think?   Or should I go with the small?

The Eskandar jacket has the mandarin collar and is lined in heavy black silk so the facing is just turned in and attached to the lining.  I don't think there is any interfacing.    You can see more photos on my Flickr account.   


Here's the fabric that I want to make the first one out of.  It's drapey and has an open weave so you can see the top underneath.   I think it looks wonderful with this silk jacquard for a blouse/top underneath.

WHAT PRETTY MATERIAL LOVE IT

Alice

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The AST is 65" in the MD finished and the SM is 61" finished...to me it is more about the neck circumference and how that will fit...the little amount of extra ease in the body circumference is secondary. I think you could make the Small.

If you like the length of the Eskandar you have in the picture on you...double check the pattern and make it the same length.

I recently saw a cashmere jacket from Eskandar with...instead of patch pockets on the lower section of the fronts....a side seam pocket, made like the pocket in the skirt of ITT...the elephant ear is connected to the back of the jacket and brought forward and stitched in place...kept the bulk down using only one layer, especially in the cashmere.

Well, I am off to get a ton of work done today...if all goes well I might have a few days at the end of the week/weekend to sew for myself...a real treat...I'll check back in lately. Later, Louise

[Terri K]

Thanks Louise.   I measured the collar and it's the length (circumference) & width of the small.    As always, you're right on.   On my way out to have some lunch with DH and some errands.   Today is a good day to wear that lightweight wool/cashmere Eskandar pant suit with a short sleeve stretch velvet turtleneck top.   Sunny and in the 50's here in the NC mountains. 

[Alice in Bama]

Louise

Did you get your sewing done / CAN WE SEE IT IF YOU DID?

I have been sick with a bad couch and have not felt like doing any thing but i am going to get on my sewing machine It great medicine

Alice

[Terri K]

Yes, we miss you Louise!   

Alice - sorry you've been sick.  Get well soon!

I've been sidetracked from sewing too.   Today was computer day.   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Sorry, gals...I have been traveling...well, from the sewing room, to the office, to the post office and starting the trip all over again and again and again. I had deadlines for the new pattern, and had to go 'underground' to get all completed. The instructions finished, all step-by-step illustrations drawn and keyed in, and the cover illustration draw. Today is getting all the retreat info for both retreats in January in order. Ladies charged and their free pattern in the mail.

I have a proof prototype of the new pattern on the cutting table ready to cut out...well...that has to be rolled up for today and place all the retreat folders along the cutting table and get all the new info placed. If I work quickly and quietly so I don't have ktty help...I might get back to the new pattern...ya, that 'll happen!

I am here and will check in if you are working on something and need a question answered.

Hint...hint...Make sure you are signed up for the newsletter on the website.

till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Oh, my gosh. I was at your trunk show with the ASG in Phoenix and bought
several patterns. I love the pants and just finished (except for
buttonholes) the By Popular Demand top. What a dream to make! The pieces
fit together perfectly and the directions were superb. I didn't have to
wonder which way to press a seam or anything else, because it was all
laid out for me. Thank you, thank you, and thank you!

I recieved this e-mail last evening and read it while drinking morning coffee and clearing off orders.

For my 'month' off, I sure am busy...new pattern should be out by the first of the new year...I hope in Jan...but the next ones are already on the drafting table.

The two retreats in Jan that are here in Fla are being processed and planning menus.

I just found out I am filming another Martha Pullen show in May and Sue Hausemann in June, and dealing with a slant on pressing again, I have to look over what I have done in the past on both programs...with Martha, it is about a 6 minute segmant...so that is generally one technique...but with Sue, you are almost the whole show and boy, does that eat up techniques, so all the step-by-steps need to be planned out.

Well, just like Scarlette O'hara..."tomorrow is another day".

Off to the post office to get order shipped. till later, Louise

[Lisa Laree]

Louise, is your welt pocket technique (the one w/graph paper and sheets of steam-a-seam) in one of your booklets?

thanks!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Louise, is your welt pocket technique (the one w/graph paper and sheets of steam-a-seam) in one of your booklets?

Sorry, not yet...it will be in the next booklet along with a ton of other stuff...all the various pieces and parts are ready to go in Expert Tips and Techniques Volumn IV...but that rotten thing called time...so maybe it will come out in the summer when I get off the road after all the spring events.

Proofing the next pattern for the past few days...not only the pattern, but the instructions and placement of the illustrations. It is so close, I see it being out right after the first of the year...depending on the printers schedule. 

off to get some things done...till later, Louise

[Lisa Laree]

Thanks, Louise!  I'll have to grab that one when it comes out!

[hilda]

Louise,

I'm in serious need of neckline help.  I want to make size small pullover - heading for adventure and perfect blouse.  I have shallow upper chest and small bust.  A medium fits my neck circumference but makes the rest of the blouse too big.  How do I go from med neck to small shoulder and rest of blouse?  I can make shoulder line shorter but the armscye is bigger than the small due to the extra height the med neckline has.  Do you follow what I'm trying to do?  Or...... how di I increase the neckline circumference on size small without increasing anything else?

Happy Holidays!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I want to make size small pullover - heading for adventure and perfect blouse.  I have shallow upper chest and small bust.  A medium fits my neck circumference but makes the rest of the blouse too big.  How do I go from med neck to small shoulder and rest of blouse?  I can make shoulder line shorter but the armscye is bigger than the small due to the extra height the med neckline has.

I hope everyone is having a restful day...ya, that'll happen . I used to make about 1600 cookies at this time of the year...well, much earlier because they were pretty well gone by this time of the year...but, I am now down to one kind for my best friend....they are not shared with anyone...no one even knows she has them...I am off to her family's home for dinner this evening...not quite sure how they will be wrapped this year...maybe in a hatbox...I already have them in a left over container. Last year was in Chinese takeout boxes and the year before a pizza box from a really bad pizza joint...no one would look there!

Now let get to your neck line. I have pulled out the HFA top. Make the MD...or cut out the MD, at about 3" to 4" along the shoulder line on both the front and back of the pattern pieces fold out 1" of tissue from the shoulder line to the hem line. 'True up' the shoulder line...double check that the sleeve will be long enough. This alteration bring not only the body in about 4" in circumference but it will bring the end of the shoulder seam in also...shortening the sleeve. If you look at the difference between the width of the SM sleeve and the MD sleeve...it is only 1/2" Don't let the 'stacking' of the pattern between the SM and the MD throw you off. The shoulder line of the MD is higher, but so is the lower tip of the armscye before it goes into the underarm. The sleeve really isn't that much bigger.

To make it easier sewing the bias neck edge facing...you may serge the one raw edge instead if stay stitching and turning it under. It speeds up your sewing and gives a nice flat finish to the neck edge.

The APB will have the same adjustment...except remove the same amount vertically along the front of the blouse, the yoke and the lower back...again, check the sleeve length, adding back if needed at the lengthen/shorten line. And check the finihed garment circumference measurements of both the  APB and HFA. They will be different from each other.

I have been working on getting the next pattern to bed for a few days/weeks...the finishing touches for 'Of The Momant' ... the pattern Velumns went off to the printers today...I still have to proof the instructions sheets for yardages, measurments and all those little things that have to be accurate and the same goes for the envelope...so there should be a new pattern out after the first of the year.

Also years ago I created 'A Peak at Christmas' a quilting book of a NYC brick brownstone with all the windows decorated for the holidays...well, usually at this time of year I am asked if I still carry the book. Sandy and I have been updating all the directions and it too will be available after the first of the year. If you start in Jan. you could have the quilt finished by next holiday season...but I have also heard form ladies who have changed the quilt to become other seasons...plus a great graduation present for a child with pictures of them as they grew up in each of the windows...I' ll let you know when it is again ready.

I hope each and everyone is having the holiday of their dreams. till later, Louise     

[hilda]

Thanks Louise.  I was making the alteration much harder in my mind    

[Terri K]

Was snoop shopping on this very cold evening and found this Eskandar silk monks top on eBay for $426 starting price 

Myteefinds eBay store

I thought what a fast and elegant tunic top this would make and wondered if anyone had made one following Louise's directions (quoting her May 07 post below) on how to do it using the Less is More pattern?    I don't have that pattern yet, but it sounded so easy with no shoulder seams.   I don't believe the pics that Louise originally linked are still there so I omitted them and kept the measurements she posted. 

I’ve been seeing tunics in so many designer’s collections, I wanted to give you a great change to the Less is More Pattern. So, pull this pattern out of your stash and with a few very, very simple changes to the pattern you will be able to achieve an expensive looking designer top. The pattern pieces are already there, just a few lines and a totally different look is possible. 

The links show a very oversized tunic. This is what Eskandar is known for. I went snoop shopping as I told you the other day and wanted to show you what I found. I’ve just been waiting for some pictures to appear on the internet so you can see exactly the finished garment. 

Eskandar tunic in a size ‘0’  measurements are bust - 62" length - 26.5"
Eskandar tunic in a size ‘1’ measurements are bust - 66" length - 30"

Now you are the designer. You don’t have to make the tunic as large around the circumference if you don’t choose. But I have been shopping with a size 8-10 person and they tried on both the size ‘0’ and the size ‘1’…both looked great on her.

The trick is, when you are wearing a roomy sized garment, a small shoulder pad will ‘square’ up your shoulders and the width of your hips IS the width of the garment. It stops where you stop.

I have now made this top up with the changes written here about 6 times in linen (some double sided so when worn the inside color shows at the funnel and the rolled cuff), Tasmanian wool and wool crepe. It looks great with tapered One-Seam Pants© or Capris. When worn the funnel slides over the head and where and how it stops is the way it is worn…it is a ‘crunch’ neck. It should not be turned in to a cowl. (very dated).

You will be using the Shell from the Less is More pattern. The finished circumference measurements range from 42”- 54”. You can stick with your size or go up in size if you want to experiment a bit. As you can see, the circumference measurement is no even close to the designer size. If you want to achieve that, lay the shell out on your cutting table. You will see that the front and back are cut in one with no shoulder seam. About midway between the center front fold line (this is also the center back fold line) and the side seam, draw a vertical line from front hem over the shoulder to back hem, parallel to the fold line. Cut along this line and add 2” of tissue. When the garment is completed, you have actually have added 8” total to the circumference.

To make the ‘funnel’ neck, take the bias neck pattern piece, in the size you are using. Tape about 18” of pattern tissue paper to the long end of the bias neck. Continue the 2 short ends of the bias binding by drawing 2 vertical lines up 14”. Connect with a horizontal line. This is your complete pattern piece for the ‘funnel’… and is cut on the bias, so when it is worn it will fold and drape nicely around your neckline. (No, the funnel for SinH is not the same length for the Less is More neckline…it is easier to do it the way I have just written).

The construction of the ‘funnel’ seam will be sewn first at ¼” and serged together, pressed the seam one direction and stitched flat. The top hem circumference of the ‘funnel’ needs to be cleaned finished. Press under ½” then press again at 1¼”. Slip Steam-A-Seam under the fold to hold the hem in place while you are edge stitching.

Unlike what the pattern instructions have you do, (place the original bias binding neck edge slightly off the center back), the ‘funnel’ neck seam needs to be placed at the center back of the garment. Pin the funnel to the neckline and stitch at ¼”. Serge the seam and press toward the funnel.

The additional sleeve pattern piece does not need the extended fold back cuff length if you don’t want to use it. For a more casual look, you may use the first ‘fold’ line (closest to the top of the sleeve) as the hem fold. Draw a parallel line 1¾” away for the hem fold line. Just like the ‘funnel’ hem, fold under ½” and then again 1¼” press, Steam-A-Seam and edge stitch. This way when the sleeve is rolled up just once, the reverse side is clean finished.

You can make the tunic any length.  I have seen it from high hip length to the full length tunic that is in the Less is More pattern. Just remember the side slits, it make the garment hang straighter at the sides. 

Enjoy...till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Thanks Terri for posting the Monk's top...and the step-by-steps...I had written it here months ago, but as I was writing it for the blog on my website I went into a bit more detail...I was sewing one at the time I was writing the blog version. So it has more indepth instructions which you highlighted.

Eskandar has had this top in his collections for many seasons...in everything from linen (my favorite) to tropical weight wool
 (next favorite...and would feel wonderful here in Florida this morning ...27 degrees...but back to the 70's tomorrow???...go figure), to silk gauze and sweater knits.

Trying to look at the picture closer, this version looks like a 4-ply silk. With a starting price on e-bay of $426.00...what was the original retail price??? eek

Back to my list for all things retreat - get ready stuff. till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Actually,   there are quite a number of these up on eBay.  Just search on Eskandar Monks and you'll get them all.   Here's a brown cashmere one (retail price $1,015) with a buy it now of $250.   Lots more photos on the llink to the auction.   


Brown Cashmere Monks Top

I was not able to find the other instructions you are referring to Louise.   Can somebody post them or point me in the right direction?